Akihabara, the heart of otaku culture.

Anime, games, manga.

The streets are a kaleidoscope of colors, characters,

and specialty stores of all kinds.

It's teeming with eager sightseers and shoppers.

So how did the area become a destination for enthusiasts?

It has to do with its long history

as a vital transportation and logistics center.

Today we dive into Akihabara

and unravel its electric charms.

Akihabara
A Tech and Pop Culture Wonderland

Akihabara is located between Tokyo Station and Ueno Station.

Served by multiple train lines,

it's one of the city's major transport hubs.

Hi, I'm Benjamin Boas, and today I'm speaking to you from Akihabara,

a center of Japanese subculture.

If you're into anime or Japanese video games,

maybe you've heard of this place.

I've been coming here for over 20 years ever since I was in high school.

I am so excited to do a deep dive of Akihabara with you today.

Let's see what's waiting for us.

Benjamin is originally from New York.

His love of video games and anime growing up

led him to move to Japan in 2007.

He's an author and culture consultant sharing Japanese culture with the world.

We start our day with a walk down Akihabara's main thoroughfare.

Oh, wow. Look at the figurines that they have here.

My goodness, there is quite a selection of them.

It's always fun to come and take a look at these,

especially when they're out of the box,

because it's like seeing your favorite cartoon characters come to life.

There are shops offering not just video games and anime titles,

but a variety of merchandise based on fictional characters.

Figurines are especially popular.

One of the reasons why they are so popular

is because they're very intricately designed and created.

You can see crease marks not just on his muscles

but also on his clothes, even to the ankle bindings there.

The detail work is quite fine.

Oh, wow. Look at this.

These games are from decades ago. Wow.

I recognize these from when I was first starting to study Japanese.

I wanted to learn the language so that I could play video games in Japanese.

Benjamin finds a classic game console that was popular in the 1990s.

The neighborhood is full of stores selling used collectibles like these.

You'll also come across all kinds of old electronic appliances.

Some of them are even missing some key parts.

Handy portable radio.

Okay, they still sell these batteries.

Look at what we have over here. It's like remote control heaven.

Wow.

These types of secondhand items are sold at bargain prices.

Part of the fun of coming here is going hunting for rare finds.

Look at all of these.

Each one of these little machines is selling a

different type of miniature toy,

and they're all different. Wow.

One...

These vending machines sell what are called "capsule toys."

Just insert coins, turn the handle...

Out comes a little egg.

Each machine contains several different toys from a series,

and capsules are dispensed randomly.

This one is gold-colored, so it's very shiny.

This one is a popular anime character.

The toys are designed exclusively for these machines

and available in limited numbers.

Many are based on anime characters and are highly coveted by fans.

A wide array of machines has been set up throughout the neighborhood.

And there are even capsule toy shops.

With a bounty of treasures to discover,

the vending machines have become a major local draw.

Next, we go for a stroll along a busy road

on the opposite side of Akihabara Station.

Wow, look at this place.

This looks, shall we say, a little more classic

than the other stores that we've seen today.

Let's check it out.

- Hello.
- Welcome!

I wonder what they sell here?

Look at these.

These are classical Japanese confectioneries.

This shop specializes in traditional Japanese confectionery made by hand.

It's one of the oldest businesses in the area.

I know this is Akihabara,

but the feel of your shop is different from the Akihabara I'm used to.

Yes. We've been in business here since 1894.

Nishii Nobuki is the 7th-generation owner.

He's a lifelong Akihabara resident and a local history buff.

So we asked him how it became such a vibrant area.

200 years ago, this was a vacant lot.

It was a so-called fire barrier zone,

meant to stop fires from spreading to the center of Tokyo.

So no buildings, no townhouses.

Just open space.

That made the location ideal for a new train station.

Here's Akihabara in the late 19th century.

At the time, Tokyo was prone to fires,

and so a strip of open space was set up here

to prevent any flames from spreading.

In 1890, it became the site of Akihabara Station.

That paved the way for the area to become the bustling hub we know today.

Initially, Akihabara Station served as a freight terminal.

Large quantities of firewood, food and other commodities

arrived from the northeastern Tohoku region

to support the lives of Tokyo residents.

It became a key logistics center,

with the cargo handling area in full operation day in and day out.

Nishii says there's a spot nearby where there remains a connection to the past.

It's in a small park right next to the station.

A waterway used to run through here.

I see.

There was a bridge here, with posts on either end.

This was one of them.

This is a bridge post? Wow!

Here's a map of the area around the time the station was built.

Where the park sits today, there used to be a waterway

connecting the station's loading dock to the Kanda River,

which was one of the city's major transport routes.

Cargo that arrived at the station was transferred to boats,

which then made their way out onto the river.

We head across the street from the park to see what the river looks like today.

The waterway opened up to Kanda River right around here.

The cargo boats passed through and continued onwards.

So Akihabara has a long history as a transit terminal.

35 years after the station began operations,

it opened to passenger traffic.

The growing flow of goods and people led to wholesalers and retailers

popping up around the station.

One particularly massive facility was built on the north side.

See that big building?

There used to be a market there.

A market?

It was a fruit and vegetable market.

The Kanda Vegetable and Fruit Market opened for business in 1928.

It was built on the same strip of open land as Akihabara Station.

It served Tokyo residents for about 60 years,

until the growing urban population led the market

to relocate to a bigger space in 1989.

Today the site is occupied by an office building

whose tenants include major telecommunications companies.

So there was a flow of goods into this area.

That led to the creation of the market.

Yes, this area became a hub of people and goods.

That's how Akihabara developed.

In the mid-20th century, a new current began to flow through the area.

Nishii tells us there's a building nearby

where some shops from the era endure,

so we decided to check it out.

I've been coming to Akihabara for years,

but I've never been inside here before.

Let's see what's inside.

Look at this. It's like a little alleyway.

It's so narrow.

Look at all of these little parts and pieces.

There are so many of them. And they're different sizes.

Wow, what is all of this?

The stalls inside are packed to the brim with electronic components.

It's a wonderland for those who aspire to build their own devices.

With about 30 shops spread across multiple floors,

this is one of Japan's top destinations for DIY electronics.

Oh, my goodness. And they are cheap! This one's 20 yen.

There's one here that's 15 yen.

They're selling things here that are under a quarter.

It's rare to find such a variety of specialty parts

that can be purchased individually,

so they get customers from across the country.

This man is an amateur radio enthusiast.

He's been coming here since he was a kid to buy parts.

Major manufacturers can design parts, make molds, and mass produce products.

That's not an option for hobbyists.

When I think I need a specific part, I come here.

It's another side of Akihabara, tucked away from the pop culture pizazz.

Look at what they have here.

This shop sells semiconductor components.

These look like pins.

They're so small.

These pin-like items are diodes,

which are basic devices used to control

or regulate the flow of electric current in a circuit.

Owner Yoshida Yuji has a reputation

as a semiconductor expert among electronics enthusiasts.

He says people come to his shop to buy parts to build radio receivers.

Do people still make their own radios?

Yes, of course.

I wasn't aware!

For some people it's their hobby.

This shopping area has roots

that stretch back to the golden age of radio as entertainment.

In the 1940s, shops selling electronic components

began springing up around the station.

Because radios were so expensive at the time,

it was common to make your own.

It's said that radio parts practically flew off the shelves.

The shopping area became one of Akihabara's main attractions.

But recently their number has been steadily declining,

due to devices growing increasingly complex,

and shop owners having trouble finding successors.

This long-standing parts seller opened its doors in 1951.

They specialize in capacitors,

which are devices for storing electrical energy.

They've kept the business going as a family.

I took over this shop from my father.

- You're 2nd generation owner.
- Yes.

Do you have a successor lined up?

She's over there.

I see!

So your business will live on.

Kubota's daughter Satomi plans to take over the shop one day.

She's an audio buff who enjoys building speakers in her free time.

And when it comes to the shop's inventory, her knowledge is second to none.

I make my own speakers.

Using different parts gives you a different sound.

Maybe you get a more powerful sound, or a cleaner resonance.

I enjoy hearing the difference.

She says she's been into electronics since she was little.

I've been playing around here since I was in kindergarten.

Wow, so you were a little kid messing around with capacitors!

I bet when you see a capacitor, it evokes happy memories.

Yes, they do.

The community has high hopes for the next generation of shop owners

who will carry this legacy into the future.

The specialty parts shops paved the way

for an influx of electric appliance stores

in the second half of the 20th century.

As TVs and refrigerators evolved as consumer products,

home appliances became a status symbol among the masses.

In the 1970s, when more than 90 percent of Japanese households

owned at least one color TV,

Akihabara was home to as many as 500 such retailers.

It's said that the local market accounted for

over 5 percent of the country's total home appliance sales.

This mass retailer is located by the station.

It was founded in 1951.

Inside you'll find everything from lightbulbs to major appliances.

Hi there!

Hello. Welcome.

Ono Kazushi is the 3rd-generation president.

He's been working here for 40 years.

A few electronics wholesalers set up shop in the early 1940s.

Then they started to do retail.

That led to more retailers opening up in Akihabara.

We had nothing but electronics stores around here.

Customers would complain to me that there were no places to eat.

Ono says there's a corner of the store he takes special pride in.

Does this play cassettes?

Yes.

Wow.

Look at that!

We sell a lot of cassette players.

Really?

Are these used?

They're new. All of them.

Incredible!

I remember people would dance with that on their shoulder.

Oh yeah? Not just in the movies?

Lots of young people would take their boombox down to the beach.

Boomboxes became popular in Japan in the '80s.

This store still carries them for older customers who listen to cassettes.

Ono says recently the format is making a comeback

among young people into retro tech.

They also carry a wide selection of record players

sure to appeal to vinyl enthusiasts.

One thing they don't offer is smartphones,

which are featured prominently at many other retailers.

Instead, they've chosen to focus on the products they know best.

For many years, Akihabara had a reputation for its home appliances.

But Ono says the number of retailers declined sharply in the '90s.

The turning point was when PCs came on the scene.

The world changed drastically after that.

So did the demographic of people coming to Akihabara.

In Japan, personal computers began to spread widely in the late '90s.

They were selling so well that many home appliance retailers

in Akihabara completely changed their product lineup.

Today, only a small number remain.

The growth of the PC market also led to the opening of stores

specializing in PC games, which drew a younger crowd.

Gradually, more businesses began to cater to gamers

and their love of manga and anime,

and Akihabara became known as an otaku haven.

Meanwhile, Ono continued to sell washing machines, refrigerators,

and other household appliances.

He actively engaged customers on the sales floor

and made sure to take care of his regulars.

And so his store endures.

Out here on the sales floor, you notice when customers leave unsatisfied.

But if they thank you and give positive feedback,

you know you did your job.

You have to be out here, interacting with them.

That's what's important.

Akihabara continues to evolve,

but that doesn't mean it's lost touch with its past.

Walk around, and you'll find stores that have been here

since its heyday as a home electronics district.

This shop sells cables.

Cables?

This store opened its doors in 1951.

It's known for its audio cables,

which are used to transmit audio signals from one device to another.

Its products helped power the golden age of vinyl records.

This store here was founded in 1946.

These are ham radios.

This shop is a destination for amateur radio enthusiasts.

Ham radio allows amateur operators

to connect with fellow enthusiasts around the world.

In Japan, the hobby saw a surge in popularity in the '70s,

and it still enjoys a passionate following.

This place has been in business for decades.

It's withstood the test of time.

Thanks to stores like these,

Akihabara continues to thrive as a gathering place

for hobbyists of all stripes.

It's not that Akihabara keeps changing.

Rather, its offerings are diversifying.

It's not just about what's new.

Right.

Businesses from each stage of its history remain...

and they've still got life in them.

In the early 2000s,

a new local trend grew out of the popularity of anime and video games.

Here's something you see a lot of in Akihabara.

Akihabara sure does love maids.

Everywhere you look, there are signs and billboards advertising maid cafes.

Welcome home, Sir!

These establishments are themed cafes

where customers can enjoy conversation and games

with waitstaff dressed up as maids.

The first maid cafe in Akihabara opened its doors in 2001

and was a huge hit with otaku.

Rock, paper, scissors, shoot!

Today, maid cafes have become a popular local attraction

enjoyed by a wide demographic.

More than 20 years on,

there are currently over a hundred of them in the area.

Look at this. Wow.

The one we're visiting today opened in 2002.

Welcome home.

...I'm home!

Table for one?

Yes please.

Follow me. Watch your step.

Our lord has returned!

Welcome home!

Even first-time customers are welcomed this way

to encourage them to make themselves at home.

- May I?
- Thank you.

This is Mahore, the manager.

She's been in this business for 18 years.

She says she's loved Akihabara since she was little.

Today "otaku" has become a positive term.

But in the past, I hid my interests.

Akihabara was where I could be myself.

You could be the real you.

Yeah.

This town accepted you.

Yes.

And also, I opened this cafe to create a place of acceptance.

Mahore is a die-hard cosplay otaku.

She says she started working at a maid cafe

because she wanted to dress up in the costume.

While some see it as a curious hobby,

Akihabara is a safe space for people to cosplay freely in public.

Mahore believes it's that local character

that made the area an ideal place for maid cafes to take root.

Akihabara welcomes the new while also treasuring the past.

At our cafe we have a male maid.

In Japan there are even virtual maids.

I think maid culture will continue to evolve.

In 2020, Mahore took the lead

in establishing a networking group for maids across Akihabara.

She hopes that they can connect, collaborate,

and boost maid cafe culture,

further establishing it as a local mainstay.

When we get a customer who's down, who's been having a tough time,

I want to inspire them to do their best tomorrow.

We're all on the same team. Team Akihabara, united.

If someone's in a fix, we'll get through it together.

20 years ago, when I first came here, I was super into video games and anime.

I did not know anything about maids.

I did not know much about electronics.

But on this trip, I've learned that they're all different parts of Akihabara.

The Akihabara of the past is still visible in the Akihabara of today,

and I'm really looking forward to seeing what the Akihabara of the future

is going to be like.