The Matsu Islands, located just offshore of mainland China, are said to have been where the Taoist goddess Matsu drifted ashore. We visit the islands during their Chinese New Year festivities.
Far from the main island of Taiwan is a group of islands facing the Chinese mainland across a narrow strait.
The islands have experienced a history of constant tension with the mainland.
At the same time, strongly influenced by mainland China, they have developed a rich culture of their own.
We pay a visit to Taiwan's remote frontline islands.
Located 210 km northwest of the main island of Taiwan...
...the Matsu Archipelago comprises 36 islands.
The first impression we have on arrival is the large number of soldiers who are stationed on these small frontline islands.
The military and the residents closely cooperate.
Many of the islanders make a living by doing business with the military.
The archipelago's name comes from the name of the goddess Mazu.
The largest statue of her in the world stands guard over the islands.
According to legend, Mazu was a woman born on the mainland who drifted to the islands.
She's worshipped as the goddess of navigation and fishing.
This island features steep slopes with rows of houses clinging to them.
There's a temple dedicated to Mazu in the upper part of the village.
Mazu is the highest-ranking and most popular Taoist deity in Taiwan.
Preparations have begun for the Lantern Festival which concludes the New Year.
The portable shrine carrying the god strikes a stand and writes Chinese characters on it.
This is believed to be the god's message.
The actions and timing of the festival
follow the god's instructions.
If we don't obey, we will receive
divine retribution.
The Lantern Festival celebrates the first full moon of the New Year.
It has been passed down to the people of the Matsu Archipelago over many generations.
These days there are few young islanders,
so many of the portable shrine carriers are soldiers stationed on the island.
Portable shrines carrying various gods are brought from all over the island.
The islanders thank the gods at the beginning of the new year and pray for safety and health.
People's lives have long been embroiled in Taiwan's relationship with mainland China.
The beginning of the year is celebrated with wishes for peace.
Since the Chinese Civil War, we residents
and the soldiers have been one family.
We soldiers and the residents
are all family here.
We're now heading to the farthest island of the Matsu Archipelago.
It's Dongyin Island, which has around 1,500 inhabitants.
Dongyin is the northernmost island effectively controlled by Taiwan.
On clear days, mainland China is visible 100 kilometers away.
The island's once thriving fishing industry is now on the decline,
and it's increasingly suffering depopulation.
Against such a background, however, a cafe was opened in 2020.
The owner, Tsai Pei-yuan, used to work in Taipei,
but she returned to her hometown to promote the charms of the island.
At the back of the cafe, there's a room that emits a powerful smell.
This building used to be a processing factory for fish sauce, a specialty of the island.
No one makes fish sauce anymore.
So we decided to keep the warehouse
to pass on this precious smell.
The aroma of fish sauce used to be a constant part of the islanders' life.
But it's a memory of the island that has largely been lost.
Many people see our island as a
masculine, uptight military place.
However, just as we worship
the goddess Mazu,
women are also making various attempts
to care for the island.
I want everyone to know that.
The Lantern Festival has started on Dongyin Island.
Each house places food on the table and waits for the arrival of the gods.
Led by a drunken god, the procession of portable shrines arrives.
Wishes are made for the new year.
In the evening, Tsai and her team prepare an essential dish for the Lantern Festival...
Glutinous rice dumplings.
Resembling the full moon, they're imbued with a wish for family happiness and peace.
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Happy New Year!
Our team is like one big family.
I wish our whole family peace and health
for yet another year.
On the Goddess Islands, the arrival of spring is filled with hope.