The History of a Traditional Fabric

Yamanashi Prefecture / Shibata Fumie (Product designer)
"Kaiki" is a thin, brightly colored silk fabric. Shibata discovers how threads are arranged to produce a layered effect that resembles a digital image.

Transcript

00:01

DESIGN MUSEUM JAPAN

00:07

Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi Prefecture

00:20

Shibata visits the city of Fujiyoshida.

00:25

Good morning. Great to see you.

00:28

It's cold. But it feels like home.

00:36

Shibata Fumie was born here in Fujiyoshida.

00:42

Her parents ran a textile factory.

00:49

Fuji Industrial Technology Support Center

00:54

A textile that almost ceased to exist is said to be preserved here.

01:02

The blue lining is called "Kaiki."

01:06

It's so stylish!

01:08

I've got goosebumps.

01:14

Kaiki: A silk fabric produced locally from the mid-17th to early 20th centuries.

01:26

Outwardly colorful garments were banned in centuries past.

01:30

A Kaiki lining was a subtle way to enjoy fashionable outfits.

01:36

It's so beautiful.

01:37

Hold out your hand.

01:40

You can see how thin it is.

01:45

Kaiki is woven from fine thread. It's perfect for a thin, light lining.

01:54

Look carefully at the color.

01:59

Ah, amazing! It changes.

02:04

As the angle changes, the color appears to change.

02:08

It's a whole galaxy in itself.

02:15

So pretty.

02:17

The overlapped patterns create a 3D effect.

02:22

It looks like computer graphics.

02:25

It has layers, like a digital image.

02:30

It's old, but it feels new.

02:35

This one made the biggest impact.

02:41

It's created by applying multiple colors to individual threads.

02:49

You don't often see this type of symmetry in classic Japanese designs.

02:56

It was truly innovative for its time.

03:01

Records show that talented youngsters from across Japan trained here.

03:10

In modern terms, it was like collaboration between young designers.

03:16

Ah, like a big design project.

03:21

If it was still made today, I'd want it myself.

03:27

Why does Kaiki feature these unusual designs?

03:33

It was made in the mountains, far from Edo, where it would be sold and used.

03:38

That distance to market made it especially tough to compete.

03:41

The fabric had to be light, and it had to fetch a high price.

03:48

To justify the price, a unique design was needed.

03:52

Various techniques were used to make that happen.

03:59

Kaiki silk flourished until the early 1900s.

04:04

It declined during WWII, and the necessary skills weren't passed on.

04:09

However, the spirit of deft craftsmanship persists today.

04:16

Here, fabric is finished by hand, leading to innovative results.

04:29

Simplicity and convenience alone lead to a constrained future.

04:35

Innovation will come from the past; from things made only in one place.

04:46

We should treasure the old and the new.

04:51

I want to be involved in advancing them both.