Designing Thread

Yamagata Prefecture / Nakui Naoko (Book designer)
Thread for traditional "shina" fabric takes a year to make. Ultrafine mohair is also made here, with a 60-year-old device. Nakui admires the hunt for improvement.

Transcript

00:01

DESIGN MUSEUM JAPAN

00:07

Tsuruoka / Sagae, Yamagata Prefecture

00:20

What does design mean to you?

00:23

How can we improve a book?

00:26

Perhaps we develop a new type of paper, and use that.

00:36

Beyond visual elements, design is about creating an overall flow.

00:50

Nakui is in Sekigawa, a small community in Tsuruoka.

00:56

The winters here are snowy and challenging.

01:02

There's a traditional product: an unusual thread.

01:08

You go like this,

01:11

and keep adding to form a thread.

01:15

So pretty!

01:18

It's strong and supple, with a natural color.

01:23

The raw material comes from a tree that grows locally.

01:28

The soft inner bark is what's used.

01:34

It's dried and boiled for two days, then separated into thin layers.

01:40

More than 20 processes are required over a year's time to create the yarn.

01:44

Here, it's still too thick.

01:47

You tear it so that it's the right thickness for yarn.

01:55

The inner bark of a tree, torn and twisted into thread.

02:11

The yarn is woven into "shina" fabric.

02:17

It's a unique product, developed in a harsh environment.

02:23

I thought I knew what yarn was.

02:28

So I was surprised to see that anything can be turned into thread.

02:38

Yamagata's textile tradition has led to the production of world-class yarn.

02:46

Ah, they're so colorful.

02:51

And cute.

02:58

Wait. Really?

03:02

Nakui notices how thin it is.

03:09

It's made from ultrafine mohair, less than half the usual thickness.

03:19

Let's see how the ultrafine mohair thread is made.

03:23

If you pull it, it comes apart.

03:32

So we twist it, while keeping it taut.

03:36

That stretches it into fine thread.

03:42

Another key element can be seen in the spinning mill.

03:47

Let's take a close look at the machinery.

03:53

core thread
mohair thread

03:57

Mohair is wrapped around a core thread.

04:07

This is brushed, creating strong, soft and thin mohair yarn.

04:20

It was made in 1958.

04:23

Amazing!

04:26

The yarn can only be made using this 60-year-old machine.

04:34

A machine that has been running for 60 years is impressive.

04:41

Working with the same device for that long produces incredible results.

04:47

Design comes from a desire to make constant improvements.

04:53

Here, I saw that for myself.