Korean Family Meals for Rural Japan

There's a Korean restaurant in Northeastern Japan run by a woman from South Korea. She moved to the area over 30 years ago to marry a Japanese man. We follow her as she connects with local people.

Transcript

00:01

Stories about people. Stories about life.

00:06

Hometown Stories.

00:17

Many Japanese people think
Korean food is spicy.

00:22

But quite a few Korean dishes
are not spicy.

00:28

This woman runs a Korean restaurant in northeastern Japan.

00:34

- Are you from South Korea?
- Yes! Hello.

00:40

People fondly call her "Sun-chan."

00:43

- You had a haircut?
- Cute, isn't it?

00:48

So, you want to look younger.

00:52

It's been more than 30 years since Sun-chan moved to a farming village to marry a Japanese man.

00:58

Since then, life for her there has not always been easy.

01:03

I hated living in this village.
I wanted to go back home.

01:09

Once, she even packed her bags.

01:15

But for some reason, Sun-chan became a magnet for people with worries.

01:22

Like this man — a newcomer finding it hard to settle in the village.

01:29

As an outsider, I wasn't always
invited to local gatherings at first.

01:35

And this woman, who's hesitant about taking a new step in her life.

01:40

- I think I'm too old.
- Age doesn't matter.

01:48

What is it about Sun-chan's Korean restaurant that attracts so many people?

02:02

Tozawa Village, in Yamagata Prefecture, is a small community in northeastern Japan with a population of about 4,000 people.

02:14

Sun-chan's restaurant stands on the bank of the Mogami river.

02:23

Otomo Sunho, or Sun-chan, is 61 years old.

02:28

She starts her day at 10 o'clock in the morning.

02:32

Here you go.

02:38

Sit down and eat.

02:42

Her restaurant is called Nikkan Hiroba, or "Japan-Korea Plaza."

02:52

She proudly serves home-style dishes that she learned back in her native land of South Korea.

02:59

Here you go.

03:03

Delicious!

03:07

Sunho's cooking is the best.
It's super-delicious.

03:16

Sunho regularly goes from table to table.

03:25

She gets to know her customers by explaining the best way to eat the dishes.

03:32

Stir it gently with the back of the spoon.

03:39

Then flip half of the rice.
See - nicely browned!

03:47

- Mix it, like face makeup.
- I don't wear any makeup.

03:55

After closing the restaurant, she doesn't slow down.

03:59

Instead, she goes straight to her nearby vegetable patch.

04:08

You can eat these raw.
They're tasty with "miso" soybean paste.

04:14

Chili peppers...

04:16

...and cucumbers.

04:18

She grows more than 20 kinds of vegetables that are staples of Korean cuisine.

04:27

She learned how to work in the fields after moving to this village.

04:34

I find it soothing to see fresh things.
It's relaxing to look at vegetables.

04:45

They warm my heart.

04:53

Cheers! Time to call it a day.

04:55

It's been hot today.

05:00

At the end of each day, Sunho loves to enjoy a drink with her husband, Yoshio, over dinner.

05:10

Yoshio was born and raised in Tozawa Village.

05:13

He has come to love kimchi, or Korean-style pickled vegetables, even more than Sunho does.

05:20

I like the sour kind with
napa cabbage and daikon radish.

05:26

I never knew my wife had it in her
to run a restaurant.

05:37

Really? I'm glad to hear that.

05:40

Let's stay happy!

05:46

Sunho and Yoshio married 34 years ago.

05:53

After Sunho graduated from university,

05:56

she was working in South Korea's capital, Seoul, enjoying life as a single woman.

06:02

But...

06:03

At family gatherings, people always
asked, "Aren't you married yet?"

06:10

I really hated that.
I felt like running away.

06:18

Sunho was 27 when someone she knew asked her if she'd be interested in an arranged marriage with a Japanese man.

06:27

They said, "In Japan, you can do
what you want. No one will complain."

06:33

Back then,
I was still thinking like a child.

06:40

The arranged marriage project was launched by Japanese local governments.

06:45

The aim was to help farming villages struggling with a lack of children to take over their parents' farms.

06:52

Despite strong objections from her family, Sunho came to Japan and married Yoshio.

06:59

But it wasn't what she expected.

07:04

It was so cold.

07:07

Korean houses are warm even in winter.
I'd wear a short-sleeved shirt at home.

07:14

But in Yamagata, it's cold even indoors.

07:22

After having a baby, she started working in the village.

07:29

Being a foreigner,
I had a hard time with people.

07:34

They'd look me up and down
before they talked to me.

07:39

I was from a different country,
and spoke a different language.

07:45

I would get angry when someone said,
"You don't know this?" and ignored me.

07:50

I hated living in this village.
I wanted to go back home.

07:59

There's something Sunho has been doing for 30 years.

08:06

Who knows Sun-chan?

08:09

I'm so happy!

08:13

At the request of some local people, she started teaching people how to make kimchi pickled vegetables.

08:23

You add ginger, garlic, chili peppers.
So, this is spicy at first.

08:27

But wait for about a week,
and the spiciness will go away.

08:32

It'll be mild.

08:37

No problem?
You want some more?

08:45

Every year, the lessons attracted more than 100 people.

08:51

This inspired Sunho to open a Korean restaurant, which she called Nikkan Hiroba.

09:00

Making kimchi together
connected me to all kinds of people.

09:05

From children to grandparents,
they were all like, "Hi Sun-chan!"

09:11

I have hundreds of friends in Japan.
I really treasure them.

09:27

Oh, wow!

09:30

Just a second!

09:33

A married couple come to see Sunho.

09:40

We're finally here.
Apologies for not visiting sooner.

09:45

This is Sunho.

09:49

Please call me "Sun-chan."
Nice to meet you!

09:55

The husband, Suzuki Eisaku, moved here from Kanagawa Prefecture, near Tokyo.

10:02

Right before our kid was born,
we came here together to eat.

10:09

We said we'd come again with our baby.
We've finally made it today.

10:15

When I didn't know many people,
I'd come here to talk to Sunho.

10:18

I was here almost every week.

10:23

Eisaku moved to Tozawa Village eight years ago, as part of a government-backed local revitalization effort.

10:30

But...

10:32

At first, people didn't always invite me
to gatherings. I wasn't one of them.

10:38

Some people asked me,
"Do you really want to come?"

10:44

Eisaku was having a difficult time. But Sunho would talk to him.

10:54

She'd ask me, "How are things?"
or "Are you having any trouble?"

11:00

So, I'd talk to her over a meal.
And she'd give me advice.

11:05

She'd encourage me to enjoy living here,
now that I'd moved to this village.

11:11

She hoped I'd end up liking this place,
both its good and bad sides.

11:19

After finishing with the revitalization team,
he got a job at a local hot-spring facility.

11:29

He decided to stay permanently.

11:38

Now, he advises people who have
relocated to Tozawa Village.

11:46

Sunho gave me emotional support without
forcing her views on me. I want to be like her.

12:14

- Hi there!
- Long time no see! How are you?

12:23

Lately, Sunho has been trying to help a woman named Tanaka Hyeseon. She's 67 years old.

12:33

Have a seat.

12:40

Hyeseon is from Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture in China.

12:45

She also moved to Japan to marry a Japanese man.

12:51

She's brought some gyoza dumplings made with rice flour — a taste of family cooking from her hometown.

13:01

Hyeseon has a dream - she wants to open a restaurant, just like Sunho did.

13:09

- What's inside?
- Vegetable. "Daikon"-radish leaves.

13:21

How's the taste?

13:27

This may taste like what you ate
when you were small. But...

13:34

Instead of "daikon" leaves, maybe cabbage
or garlic chives. Something in season.

13:42

Yes, sure.

13:44

Or things like "adzuki" beans.
Then people would buy your dumplings.

13:50

But for this filling,
I don't think they'd pay money.

13:55

You need to be observant and
figure out what local people like.

14:02

How long have you been here?
Maybe 20 years?

14:06

It's been 23 years.

14:08

Then, I bet you know
most of the people around here.

14:17

Sunho came up with an idea.

14:23

She'll be running a food stall during the village's summer festival in three weeks.

14:28

So, she suggests that Hyeseon sell her gyoza dumplings at her stall.

14:34

If you make a dish on festival day,
you can bring it to my stall.

14:41

We'll all support you.

14:46

I wish I was as strong as Sunho.

14:49

- I think I'm too old.
- Age doesn't matter.

15:00

Please bring your dish along.

15:03

- OK.
- I'll be looking forward to it.

15:17

My mother often made this.

15:21

At New Year's or family gatherings,
we'd make "gyoza" dumplings together.

15:31

While in China, Hyeseon had tried running various businesses, like a restaurant and a beauty parlor.

15:38

But none of them went well.

15:40

She was having difficulty making ends meet when she heard about arranged marriages.

15:47

I was told, "Japan is heaven.
There's a lot of money there."

15:51

That sounded fascinating.

15:54

Everyone I knew wanted to come to Japan.

16:03

At age 45, she married her husband.
He was 12 years older.

16:11

Living in a foreign country made her
think about how to live her life.

16:19

I came to Japan, expecting heaven.
I'd never imagined it was so rural.

16:28

Unlike other people, I have no
special skills or attractive qualities.

16:35

As I lived here,
my thoughts kept changing.

16:44

It's been 23 years since Hyeseon came to Japan.

16:48

She still works at a welfare facility, while caring for her aging husband.

16:54

She is no closer to her dream of opening her own restaurant.

17:01

Now that I think about it,
I'll be 70 years old soon.

17:07

I've never seen anything through.
There's nothing worthwhile left.

17:15

That's my weakest point.
I can't make up my mind.

17:29

Such beautiful blossoms again today.

17:35

There are some flowers that Sunho looks at every day.

17:41

The rose of Sharon is South Korea's national flower.

17:49

She planted it right after she moved to Japan.

17:52

She's taken good care of it ever since.

17:57

Look at these pretty flowers.
They soothe my heart.

18:05

These flowers melt a frozen heart.

18:15

The summer festival is getting closer.
But still no word from Hyeseon.

18:23

Everyone has worries.

18:25

I hope Hyeseon will have the courage
to take part in the festival.

18:32

It's up to her whether she comes or not.
But I hope she will.

18:43

The day of the summer festival.

18:54

Cheers!

19:01

It's the first time in four years that the event has been held.

19:05

It's been a while since the village has been so lively.

19:15

In the end, Hyeseon didn't contact Sunho.

19:25

Wow, it's hot!
So scary!

19:36

Hi there! You're all so cute!

19:42

Which countries are you from?

19:44

- I'm from Myanmar.
- I'm from Vietnam.

19:48

- Was that a Vietnamese dance?
- No, a Japanese one -- Hanagasa Ondo!

20:00

Someone is standing a little way behind the foreign trainees...

20:05

It's Hyeseon.

20:15

- Hello!
- Hi there.

20:19

- Are you busy?
- Very busy.

20:24

I can't make enough "chijimi" pancakes.

20:28

Didn't you bring any food you made?

20:37

Can I help with anything?

20:44

First, watch me do it.

20:49

- Stir the batter well first.
- 2 scoops for 1 pancake?

21:09

I thought she'd come sooner.
We only have an hour left.

21:17

I guess she's not ready.

21:39

I'll go check on her.
I'm strict!

21:51

This one is done, right?

21:56

Not yet.
It's not fried enough.

22:01

- It's not brown enough.
- I see.

22:06

Sunho has had her share of hardship.

22:10

She can't leave her friend to do it alone.

22:14

Sunho is honest, a straight shooter.
She says what's on her mind.

22:21

Not many people can do that.
I'm grateful to her.

22:34

We all work hard, but we have different
personalities and ways of thinking.

22:46

I want her to be more confident,
look ahead and do her best.

23:22

With love and care, the rose of Sharon
bears many blossoms.

23:31

Hyeseon is now writing her
23-year history of living in Japan.

23:46

"The power to change struggle into joy."

23:51

I'd like to write down
what I've kept inside.

23:58

I'll keep going until the end.
No more half measures!

24:05

Long time no see!

24:18

People can't live alone.

24:24

We all need a place where
we can open up our hearts and talk.