Grandma's Hands Reap Nature's Bounty

On the Noto Peninsula in the Sea of Japan, winter winds buffet a tiny community protected by bamboo fences. We meet a woman in her 80s who embraces the bounty of earth and sea with her bare hands.

Transcript

00:02

Stories about people.

00:04

Stories about life.

00:08

Hometown Stories.

00:16

Midwinter winds rage around the Noto Peninsula, in the Sea of Japan.

00:25

The powerful wind even whirls the waterfall upward.

00:34

Oh my. I shouldn't be sitting around.

00:43

Nori seaweed in midwinter is delicious.
It's shiny, too.

00:51

There's a tiny community surrounded by traditional bamboo fences called "magaki."

00:59

The "magaki" fences block the wind.
We're safe and sound inside.

01:09

I'm going to the shore today, my dear.

01:12

Not many of us left. The old ones die off,
and the youngsters move to the city.

01:19

Times are changing. What can we do?

01:24

Even in the middle of winter, Grandma Shisano goes to the seashore to harvest nori.

01:32

In her 80s, she still plucks the wild seaweed from the rocks with her bare hands.

01:41

I'm happy, thanks to
all the blessings of the sea.

01:48

This place is the best.

01:52

My hands are wrinkly and stubborn.

01:57

Her hands speak volumes about living alongside nature.

02:15

Kamiozawa in Wajima City is a tiny community of just 20 households.

02:40

Off to the mountains.

02:55

84-year-old Tokumitsu Shisano was born and raised here.

03:00

In autumn, she grows lots of vegetables in her plots outside the community.

03:13

This is one of them, in the mountains.

03:21

Which daikon radish should I pick?

03:29

Come on out!

03:40

This turned out well,
despite the harsh wind.

03:45

"Do you always use your bare hands?"

03:50

Yes. I never wear gloves.
It's easier without them.

03:58

- "Aren't you cold."
- My hands are. They're freezing.

04:09

"Your hands are covered with soil."

04:14

My hands are stubborn.

04:25

For the past 10 years or so, Shisano has been getting around on a mobility scooter.

04:32

Spring, summer, autumn, winter. She's out and about all year round.

04:48

"Do you have a favorite season?"

04:54

Not really. They're all the same to me.

04:57

In December in winter,
I harvest nori seaweed.

05:03

When I'm done with that,
I work in the rice paddies in spring.

05:12

I do the paddy work,
and also gather wakame seaweed.

05:19

After that, I cut weeds in the paddies.
In July, I have to dig up potatoes.

05:29

In September in autumn, I harvest rice.

05:34

I do the same thing every year.

05:49

The community is surrounded by "magaki" bamboo fences.

05:54

First built hundreds of years ago,

05:56

such fences have protected the residents from the biting sea winds.

06:03

Shisano was born in 1938.

06:06

She was the fourth of eight siblings.

06:15

Life was tough back then.

06:17

Their hard-working mother raised them, gathering food from the sea and the mountains.

06:28

We didn't have much to eat back then.

06:34

Just barley and such.

06:39

We'd eat cooked barley instead of rice.

06:45

Parents didn't eat much,
so they could feed their children.

06:51

There were 8 of us kids.
Our parents must've worked hard.

07:00

Just once, Shisano left this place and lived elsewhere for a while.

07:07

After graduating from junior high school,

07:10

she was sent to Tokyo, and worked there for a little over a year.

07:20

What did I do in Tokyo?
I worked as a maid.

07:24

I guess I did some cleaning.
I don't remember exactly.

07:31

My parents probably told me to go there.
Maybe we figured I couldn't stay home.

07:40

I don't remember if I was happy to leave
or missed home. Maybe I had no choice.

07:48

I really can't recall.

07:53

Shisano was around 20 years old, when she followed her parents' suggestion and married someone from the community.

08:00

He was good at catching fish.

08:03

Oh my, I'm tired.

08:13

Her husband, Kozo, passed away a few years ago.

08:23

The couple were together for 60 years, and had four children.

08:33

Thank you, my dear, for
watching over me again today.

08:48

Shisano now lives with her son and his wife, just the three of them.

08:54

Her daughter-in-law, Yumiko, works in town,

08:56

and her grandchildren have moved out of the community to find work.

09:10

I'm too old to travel.
I might as well enjoy my life here.

09:23

In autumn, people gather at Shisano's place to make mochi rice cakes for the seasonal festival.

09:34

They're childhood friends, born and raised in this community of "magaki" bamboo fences.

09:40

Now in their 80s, they've all lost their husbands.

09:46

"How long have you
all known each other?"

09:51

- Since we were born.
- We've been here for decades.

09:58

- We grew up here together.
- We got bigger and bigger.

10:09

This method of making rice cakes is well over a century old.

10:13

But now, these women are the only ones familiar with it.

10:17

There are only 49 people in the community.

10:20

The number is down to one-third of what it was 50 years ago.

10:28

- Hard to wrap the sweet bean paste.
- It doesn't stick.

10:32

Talk to the bean paste.

10:38

Hear that? She says,
"Talk to the bean paste!"

10:48

Not all the rice cakes will be given to a local shrine as offerings.

10:54

- We'll give some to the children.
- Yes, we'll share them with the kids.

11:00

We let them grab some,
saying we're having a festival.

11:05

They can eat their fill.

11:13

Shisano and her friends have been working together since they were young.

11:21

They were all in their early 20s, when this footage was taken in 1961.

11:27

It captured a scene of nori harvesting.

11:32

Cash income was limited.

11:34

So, the women competed with each other to gather the most seaweed.

11:39

We'd tell each other,
"Let's go to the shore."

11:44

It was fun for us women.

11:50

Here's Shisano with her friend and rival of 50 years, Kawakami Teruko, 82.

11:57

They used to go to a town 10 kilometers away to sell their sheets of dried nori.

12:02

They'd compete to see who could sell most.

12:06

To go and sell seaweed,
whether it's nori or wakame...

12:11

we'd wake up by 3 a.m.
and walk to the next town.

12:15

We wanted to be there, before
the townspeople went anywhere.

12:20

It was hard work.
But that's how things were back then.

12:25

When we were young,
we just did it because we had to.

12:32

For many years, these women have been scraping the rocks with their bare hands to gather nori.

12:40

You have a callus there.
Mine is here.

12:45

You've got a bump here, too.

12:53

Shisano always loves to work with her bare hands.

13:07

I got these hands from my parents.
Even without gloves on, they don't hurt.

13:15

I'm grateful to my parents
for giving me these hands.

13:28

Mid-December marks the beginning of the harvest season for wild nori.

13:37

On this day, record-level strong winds buffet the area.

13:48

The winds are so powerful, they have flipped the waterfall upside down.

13:58

The winds can be terrible.
Those around here are the worst.

14:14

For a whole week, the strong winds have kept the people inside the "magaki" bamboo fences.

14:27

Oh, it's cold.

14:32

It's still too windy to harvest nori.

14:35

But Shisano is on her way to check on the sea in her regular spot, as she's done for the past 60 years.

14:48

The sea has quieted down.
But the white caps show it's still dangerous.

14:57

I have to wait till tomorrow and see.

15:03

She notices that the color of the rocky area, where nori grows, is different than in past years.

15:15

There isn't much nori this year.
Those rocks aren't black yet.

15:20

- "What color is it now?"
- The normal color of the rocks.

15:29

When nori grows, the color gets darker.

15:37

The nori may be sparse, but she can't wait to go and harvest it.

15:48

It's hard work.
But I've been doing it for so long.

15:55

I'm itching to go, though I probably
won't be able to gather much.

16:05

I miss it.

16:13

The next morning...

16:25

Shisano figures the wind and waves are calm enough.

16:29

She bundles up, and heads for the shore.

16:40

Her friends have heard about it, and join her one after another.

16:54

Half a month later than usual, but it's what they've been waiting for:

16:58

the first harvest of the season.

17:01

Let's go!

17:05

- "Good luck!"
- I hope there's some nori. We'll see.

17:21

The women have to brave the waves to get to the best spots.

17:27

It can be dangerous, so they go and do the harvesting together.

17:34

Watch out for the waves.
They're coming from behind you.

17:44

Wild nori grows on the rocky shore, clinging to the surface of the rocks.

17:50

The women pluck the seaweed, roots and all, with their bare hands.

17:57

The air temperature is 5 degrees Celsius. But they don't wear gloves.

18:05

I like to use my bare hands.
They give me a firmer grip.

18:14

Grasping nature's blessings with bare hands... that's Grandma Shisano's way.

18:45

After coming home, she delicately pours the freshly harvested nori into a wooden frame to shape it into a square sheet.

19:09

Shisano's hands keep up a light rhythm on the seaweed.

19:19

I enjoyed that.

19:23

It would've been more fun if I could
get more. But there wasn't much.

19:29

"You were the last to leave today."

19:36

I always stay until the end.

19:41

- "Why?"
- Because I'm greedy.

19:49

The first harvest of the winter...

19:53

Shisano dried the seaweed for a whole day, making it into 20 sheets of nori.

20:25

After entering her 80s, Shisano started finding it hard to work in the mountains and by the sea.

20:40

Hi, Nana.
You're so cute!

20:51

"Is that a band-aid on your thumb?"

20:56

Well, after I plucked nori,
the nail turned red.

21:06

Maybe I scraped the rocks too much.

21:10

At my age, my hands are getting weak
and can't pluck nori firmly.

21:19

Not like when I was young.
Things slip away from my fingers.

21:31

Nana's hair is like nori.

21:55

Shisano has received an order from a neighboring town.

21:59

So she heads out with some nori in the middle of a snowstorm.

22:09

It's for someone who has been a regular customer for decades, since her parents were alive.

22:21

- Here's your nori. Enjoy.
- Thank you.

22:27

"Does her nori taste different?"

22:31

Yes, it does.

22:34

It's wild nori that grows on rocks.

22:37

Most people eat farmed nori.
But this seaweed is special.

22:51

In this winter season, there are still more people looking forward to Shisano's nori.

23:05

- About time!
- Good morning.

23:17

Grandma Shisano and her friends go to the shore again.

23:32

- Not much, right?
- Not really.

23:39

But everyone feels there is something different about the sea.

23:48

They've been gathering nori here for 60 years.

23:52

They say they've never had such a poor harvest before.

23:57

- Days like this are rare.
- First time this year.

24:02

Not much nori at all.

24:08

Then, the women think of something.

24:12

If there isn't much nori, why not shellfish?

24:17

They decide to look for some.

24:21

- Maybe we can find some.
- Yes, whatever we can find.

24:26

Let's go.

24:34

But the shellfish are in crevices in rocks that are difficult and dangerous to reach.

24:40

See? This isn't easy.
1, 2 and 3!

24:55

Nature can be harsh.

24:57

But Shisano and her friends embrace it, and continue to live life to the full.

25:07

Our hands are sturdy and stubborn.
Don't you think?

25:19

It's spring. The winds are gentler, and the "magaki" fences can take a rest.

25:31

Shisano has already gone somewhere.

25:45

We find her on a steep mountain slope.

26:07

I must look terrible.
Please stop the camera.

26:15

These are a type of wild onion.

26:19

I'm going to wash and sell them.
I'll ship them off.

26:26

Let's go.

26:29

- "That was a steep path."
- I'm getting too old for this.

26:37

I wasn't sure about this year.
But I guess I've managed it.

26:43

I'm glad. Let's go!

26:49

For Grandma Shisano, a new season begins.