Reviving a Fukushima Brewery

The people of Namie, Fukushima Prefecture, had to flee their homes after their town was destroyed in the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami. Only about 10% of them have returned, including Suzuki Daisuke, the fifth-generation owner of a local sake brewery. He now makes sake using local water and rice, and hopes to win a gold medal in a national competition. We follow his quest to reestablish his business and bring a sense of pride to his community as well.

Transcript

00:03

Stories about people, stories about life.

00:07

Hometown Stories.

00:17

These bottles are standing on the ruins of a sake brewery

00:21

that was washed away in the tsunami following the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake.

00:28

Devotees of the brewery retrieved them from the rubble.

00:38

That gave the brewery's owner a new lease on life.

00:47

My hometown was in shambles.
I couldn't let it remain like that.

00:55

Today's story explores the joys and sorrows of a sake brewer in Namie, Fukushima Prefecture.

01:09

Suzuki Daisuke is the fifth-generation owner of a brewery that has been around for centuries.

01:16

In 2023, he submitted one of his creations - made from Namie water and rice - to the Annual Japan Sake Awards.

01:26

It was part of his efforts to revive his brewery.

01:29

But there have been some bumps along the way.

01:33

He's working hard,
but I have some concerns.

01:39

I didn't completely approve.

01:47

How did it turn out?

01:54

Reviving a Fukushima Brewery.

02:02

Nagai City is in Yamagata Prefecture, 150 kilometers from Namie.

02:12

You're here.

02:15

This is where Daisuke and his family have been living since the 2011 disaster.

02:21

- Where's your greeting?
- I'm back.

02:31

Do your homework
after you're done eating.

02:39

They have a photo of Namie in their home.

02:48

There it is.

02:51

That was our house.

02:54

The red-roofed building
was the storehouse.

03:00

You didn't know about these, right?

03:03

So that was the house?

03:07

It was right by the sea.

03:13

The Great East Japan Earthquake struck in 2011.

03:20

It took 185 lives in Namie.

03:29

Five days after the disaster,

03:33

Daisuke and his family saw footage from Namie for the first time as they were taking shelter in Yamagata.

03:44

It's all gone.
That's where we lived.

03:50

All gone, all gone...

03:53

Everything we had was gone.
We felt a great sense of loss.

04:09

This photo marked a turning point for him.

04:18

A month after the disaster, the image of the neatly arrayed bottles appeared.

04:32

I felt so grateful.
The photo brought me joy.

04:38

It was such a sentimental gesture
from the local community.

04:50

It was around the time
we began searching for the missing.

04:55

There were a bunch of bottles
lying around.

04:59

I remember lining up
four or five of them here.

05:05

Local firefighter Shiga Takamitsu is among those who gathered the bottles.

05:14

When he first saw one buried in the wreckage, he instinctively retrieved it.

05:24

I'd seen that brand
of sake since I was little.

05:29

It's one of my childhood memories.

05:36

That sake was a fixture
at family gatherings.

05:44

I thought I'd never be
able to drink it again.

05:48

It made me feel so sad.

05:51

Maybe that's what moved me
to lay them out like that.

06:01

Daisuke began receiving letters urging him to reopen the brewery.

06:13

"We're all waiting to
drink your delicious sake again."

06:18

"Let's take a step toward recovery,
starting with the revival of Fukushima sake."

06:25

Eight months after the disaster, Daisuke bought a brewery in Yamagata.

06:40

He continued to refine his brewing techniques and expand his network of customers.

06:49

In Yamagata, I gradually
regained my motivation.

06:55

It is my second home, after all.

07:03

Then, a decade after the disaster,

07:06

Daisuke began brewing sake in a corner of the newly built roadside rest stop in Namie.

07:17

His first creation since resuming operations in Namie... is aptly named...

07:25

"Tadaima" - I'm back.

07:31

I just had to buy it.

07:33

The label is great.
This is from a local brewery, right?

07:40

I'm so glad they're back.

07:44

We'll have to raise a toast with this.

07:47

It's great news.

07:55

2023 marks three years since Daisuke resumed brewing in Namie.

08:00

Now, he's working toward a big new goal.

08:06

He plans to enter the prestigious Annual Japan Sake Awards,

08:11

a crucial contest for breweries in which experts appraise the quality of their creations.

08:22

Outstanding sake receives the Gold Award.

08:24

Winning it could catapult Daisuke's sake into the national spotlight, creating a source of pride for his community.

08:35

He's striving to brew sake of the finest quality, from rice and water sourced in Namie.

08:45

I want to create sake that
the locals can be proud of.

08:51

I hope my work can help
the town in some way.

09:01

Something has been on Daisuke's mind constantly since the disaster.

09:11

The Ukedo district in Namie - where Daisuke used to live - suffered serious damage.

09:21

A monument with victims' names now stands here.

09:41

So many familiar names
starting from the top.

09:45

Mr. Suzuki,
the local rice farmer.

09:53

Mr. Urashima, Mr. Kumagawa...

09:57

Mr. Tominaga was a talented plasterer.
He used to repair our pots.

10:03

Mr. Nabeshima was
the priest at our local shrine.

10:11

His wife and parents
were also victims.

10:18

Daisuke was also a member of the local fire brigade.

10:21

He still cannot forget the pleas from his community.

10:28

We couldn't search immediately
because of the nuclear accident.

10:34

I've always regretted that.

10:38

Many people asked us things like,
"Have you seen my son?"

10:47

It was such a painful time.

10:54

Standing next to all these names,

10:58

I feel I have to live my life
to the fullest.

11:05

To leave something tangible
to remind us of their lives.

11:13

I still feel that way.

11:30

Evacuation orders have been
gradually lifted since 2017.

11:36

But only one-tenth of
Namie's former residents have returned.

11:52

For the contest, Daisuke focuses on gathering rice grown in Namie.

12:02

It's hard to harvest
all this rice by hand.

12:07

You're using such heavy machinery.

12:13

Hangai Yoshinori comes from a long line of rice farmers.

12:28

After the evacuation orders were lifted in 2017, he was among the first to resume farming here.

12:38

I couldn't return to where
I belong, my beloved hometown.

12:45

It made me sad and uneasy.

12:52

Since childhood, I'd seen rice being
planted and harvested.

12:59

It's a tradition I want to carry on.

13:11

Before the disaster, Daisuke procured rice suitable for sake brewing from another prefecture.

13:22

Now, however, he wants to use a type of rice called Koshihikari.

13:27

It's normally eaten - not brewed into sake.

13:35

Sake is normally made
with a different type of rice.

13:41

When I found out he'd be
making sake from Koshihikari,

13:49

I wondered how it would turn out.

13:56

Despite his doubts, Yoshinori proceeded to expand the area of his farm by 30% to provide Daisuke with what he needed.

14:12

He's trying a special type of fertilizer containing sake lees, which Daisuke provided.

14:27

I hope it works.
It's still in the experimental stage.

14:32

Trial phase.

14:35

We won't know how
it'll work out unless we try.

14:56

This is the first batch using Yoshinori's Koshihikari rice.

15:07

First, the rice goes through a milling machine.

15:10

This exposes the core of the rice, which is key to sake's flavor.

15:21

We're polishing the rice at
a rate of 1% per hour.

15:29

Koshihikari grains are small and easily broken.

15:33

That is why they are spending twice the usual time on polishing.

15:41

We'll spend about
100 hours over four days.

15:48

Bringing out mellow flavors
in the sake will be tough,

15:53

as this rice is different
from conventional sake rice.

15:57

On the other hand,
it's sure to develop a refined taste,

16:01

so finding the right balance is key.

16:09

Here we go.

16:16

They will be using groundwater from Namie.

16:23

The water is inspected thoroughly for radioactive contamination.

16:29

"ND" indicates that radiation levels
are so low they're undetectable.

16:44

No radiation.
We didn't find any issues,

16:47

so I can confidently
say that the water is safe.

17:08

Daisuke is living by himself in Namie,
away from his family.

17:14

This is all I'm eating.

17:47

His family is in Yamagata, a two-hour drive away.

17:53

I'm back.

18:08

For two years, he's been splitting his time between Yamagata and Namie.

18:16

It seemed physically taxing to me.

18:22

Since I wasn't the one doing it,
I gave him the green light.

18:31

But I didn't completely approve.

18:36

Going back and forth like this
is such a hassle.

18:45

He's working hard,

18:49

but I have some big concerns.

18:54

I just focus on my chores
here in Yamagata.

19:00

I haven't been able to help out with
his brewing tasks in Fukushima.

19:05

I have my hands full here.

19:20

Preparations for the sake competition are now in the final stages.

19:39

OK, stop.

20:25

How is it?

20:27

It has a rich aroma.
The flavors also came out well.

20:32

The balance is great,
so I'm happy with how it turned out.

20:38

I think I was able to create a sake
that I can be proud of.

20:58

The judges have reached a decision.

21:11

Are the results in?

21:15

Yep, they are.

21:25

Let's see the Fukushima category...

21:33

We're not on the list.

21:37

Daisuke's brewery did not receive an award.

21:51

What a shame.

21:57

That's disappointing news.

22:17

There's someone Daisuke wants to thank.

22:23

Hey there.

22:26

Yoshinori. He has been an ardent supporter.

22:32

I'm here with the sake
we made from Koshihikari.

22:36

This is the sake we submitted.
It didn't win, unfortunately.

22:42

Have a drink with me
while I do some reflecting.

22:50

Perfect time for a drink.

23:04

Please enjoy.

23:20

It's delicious.

23:30

I really felt like it came out well.

23:35

It's a shame we didn't win an award.

23:41

I'm so grateful to you for
providing us with top-notch rice.

23:48

Thank you for sharing it with
so many through your sake.

23:56

It fills me with gratitude.

23:59

Thank you.

24:04

I hope our sake reminds people of a place
they need to return to.

24:12

Making connections is an important
element of our craft.

24:21

On weekends, Namie's rest stop bustles
with activity.

24:38

I can't wait to try this.