Explore Japanese TV with this "traditional" travel documentary about a majestic mountain village. Watch until the end to discover the program's true message.

Rice harvesting season in Iiyama
Tengu purification ritual
Celebratory tempura
Village locals welcoming a traveler

Transcript

00:09

Greetings. I'm Robert Bruford.

00:12

Did you know that there is a treasure trove of captivating Japanese shows just waiting to be discovered?

00:20

Today, my special recommendation is a program that delves into Japan's rich traditional culture.

00:29

One actor embarks on a journey to the mountain city of Nagano.

00:34

Surrounded by lush nature, local culture, and delicious cuisine.

00:39

There, he encounters unforgettable moments at every turn.

00:44

Ah, but you're thinking - just another typical travel documentary...

00:51

Or is it?

00:53

You'll find out soon enough. We'll talk afterwards.

00:57

So, without any further ado, sit back, relax, and enjoy the show!

01:35

I've arrived at Iiyama, Nagano.

01:38

It's harvest season and I'm excited to see what encounters await.

01:46

Iiyama, located in northern Nagano, is about a two-hour bullet train ride from Tokyo.

01:54

Soon, the harsh winter will cover the region, but before that, autumn's blessings arrive.

02:06

There's a creek flowing.

02:10

Shishido is visiting the mountain village of Kuttsu.

02:18

Anything to catch?

02:21

- Fish are swimming.
- Are they?

02:24

- Circling over there.
- Found them! Big ones!

02:28

They're small.

02:29

- What kind of fish?
- Char.

02:32

The water must be quite clean.

02:38

- Hello.
- Hello.

02:41

Catch anything?

02:42

- Just added bait.
- Stolen away!

02:48

What do you use for bait?

02:51

Bee larva.

02:53

They're pretty tasty.

02:57

I used to fish here when I was young.

03:00

As kids, we played with cedar toys.

03:04

The cedars around here grow a lot of nuts.

03:09

Although there's a lot of pollen, hay fever was never a problem for locals.

03:15

They must have built a resistance to pollen.

03:29

There's someone else. What are you doing?

03:33

I was on a walk and smelled a Japanese pit viper.

03:38

I'm searching the area.

03:41

- A pit viper?
- Yes, a snake.

03:44

The liver of a pit viper is really delicious.

03:48

Way tastier than eel.

03:52

Wrap the guts around a stick and grill it over an open fire. Fat drips off.

04:03

Shishido-san!

04:05

Please eat something delicious!

04:07

Please come in.

04:10

- Do you mind?
- Not at all!

04:14

Wow, look at this. Such beautiful plates!

04:20

Bamboo shoot soup, boiled mountain vegetables, and tempura,

04:28

which is enjoyed on celebratory occasions.

04:31

The feast is filled with the wisdom of the mountains.

04:35

- What's this round thing?
- A biscuit.

04:39

What? No way.

04:43

- Seriously?
- Seriously!

04:45

It's my first time.

04:48

It might be over fried.

04:55

You can tell it uses tempura batter. The balance of salty and sweet is perfect.

05:03

There's no access to high-quality ingredients, but we make do.

05:10

By the way, where were you originally from?

05:15

Here.

05:16

Here!? You were born here?

05:18

Yes. Right down that way. But all of the buildings are gone.

05:31

Oh! A torii gate. Must be a shrine.

05:41

This shrine has been around for over 200 years.

05:46

It was bustling with people preparing for the autumn festival.

05:57

What does it feel like when a festival is coming up?

06:04

That's hard to answer.

06:08

Excitement?

06:10

There used to be.

06:15

Shishimai, or lion dance, is performed as a prayer for good health and a bountiful harvest.

06:22

- This looks pretty old.
- It is.

06:29

Sato Choji is in charge of the lion dance, a key part of the festival.

06:34

Choji-san, how do you feel about tomorrow?

06:37

The feelings are gradually sinking in.

06:52

Choji was born and raised in the village.

06:55

He said his strong feelings for his hometown

06:57

were bolstered by his experience traveling the world when he was young.

07:03

When I see the eyes of people living in the city,

07:08

they look like those of a fish that has been dead for days.

07:14

But in the mountains, children's eyes shine with life.

07:20

I've always known mountain life is better.

07:25

Residents come together to celebrate the pride of their village: the autumn festival.

07:30

Since long ago, the village completely changed for festivals.

07:38

It was like the only time flowers bloomed.

07:42

Kuttsu has always had the best festivals.

07:54

- It's about to start?
- That's right.

08:07

The festival begins with a purification ritual.

08:11

The tengu, a being from Japanese folklore, cuts a sacred rope with a sword to drive out impurities.

08:29

Finally, it's Choji's part.

09:04

Onbe-mai: a dance with a staff and a bell that represents dancing with the gods.

09:14

In the Kuttsu lion dance, female lions dance at a low posture.

09:48

Break a sweat?

09:49

Yes, but from nervousness.

09:55

One of the rituals is the lion dance. I'm surprised everyone remembers it.

10:03

This is a good tradition to pass down to each generation.

10:25

What?

10:52

There were once 110 people living in Kuttsu.

10:56

The last person left in 1972, and now the village is abandoned.

11:20

Good morning.

11:25

Former residents of Kuttsu arrive with their families.

11:30

(Director) Let me first explain how everything will go.

11:38

The village's customs and culture will disappear if nothing is done.

11:43

We approached former residents about recreating how the village used to be.

11:49

We can just talk about the past. Do we need to recreate it?

11:56

I think it's interesting.

12:00

I'll do it.

12:01

If it was about someplace else, it would be an easy no.

12:05

But it's about Kuttsu. I would love to be a part of it.

12:11

You have photos of Kuttsu, right?

12:14

This one? Everyone in Kuttsu has one.

12:20

It's hard to imagine now since the village is covered in grass.

12:29

As the Japanese economy developed in the 1970s, agriculture declined.

12:34

People left the village one after another.

12:37

The community could no longer function, and the decision was made to leave en masse.

12:45

Choji searched for a way to revive his hometown, but to no avail.

12:50

He was Kuttsu's final resident.

12:55

It was sad to leave.

13:02

And at the same time, I was so angry. I didn't understand the timing.

13:18

"I want to stay in Kuttsu."

13:22

"I love Kuttsu."

13:28

Former residents and their descendants formed a preservation society.

13:37

They continue to gather several times a year to cut the grass, remove snow, and protect their hometown.

13:47

In the end, it's about deciding what the purpose of your life is.

13:52

It could be for whatever,

13:57

but I want to dedicate mine to the mountains of Kuttsu.

14:06

For the first time in half a century, the villagers get to return to life in their hometown.

14:19

There they are.

14:23

The costumes.

14:24

That's right.

14:26

For the purification ritual.

14:33

I want my hometown to be documented.

14:36

Everyone wants to keep its memory alive.

14:43

One former villager held on to the lion with great care.

14:47

We dried out everything here.

14:54

But there was one problem.

14:57

To recreate the lion dance, we need someone

15:01

who actually did it back then.

15:04

I did, but don't remember.

15:06

Same here.

15:10

We visited someone in search of clues.

15:21

Moichiro is a village elder who knows the festival well.

15:28

Change position here.

15:32

Until then, you hold it in one hand? Two in one hand?

15:39

I don't know how to do that with my hands full.

15:43

I don't remember.

15:45

You remember. More than all of us. We don't have many parts.

15:55

The movements and sounds from those days gradually come back to them.

16:05

We should have recorded it, but that was a different era.

16:10

We want to do all we can to preserve the culture and traditions of our home.

16:27

Is this right?

16:28

The one before was better.

16:32

It doesn't make a sound. But I can hear the melody.

16:50

- Do you mind?
- Not at all!

16:55

Thank you!

16:56

- Finished?
- All done.

16:58

I want to see the video.

17:01

Another try? Is that the consensus?

17:08

Brings me back!

17:11

I'm thankful just for the chance to remember.

17:20

They recreated the village's games, cuisine, and daily life as it used to be.

17:31

I did it!

17:35

We haven't seen the curtain in years!

17:41

The purification ceremony was performed by village elder Moichiro.

17:49

My final duty of service.

18:00

Cool? Looks good?

18:16

They did all they could in one month.

18:19

For the first time in 50 years, the Kuttsu lion danced.

18:39

I'm sure my late father is pleased right now.

18:45

"Everyone, it's farewell!"

18:56

There's no more path to take. That way's a dead end.

19:04

I'm just happy we did this.

19:07

I'm so impressed all you got done in just three to four days.

19:11

I learned it from you and practiced at home.

19:16

Thank you, Choji.

19:18

Thanks to you, I was able to remember it. Thank you.

19:25

I really thought we should give up.

19:28

We couldn't remember the dance. The second rehearsal was a disaster.

19:34

I'm glad we did this.

19:36

A great final memory.

19:38

The young generation did a great job. We'd have nothing without them.

19:45

It was great.

19:50

I gave it my all. I wanted to do whatever I could.

20:42

Well, what did you think?

20:46

Indeed, Japan is dealing with population decline and an aging society

20:52

that is resulting in depopulation issues nationwide.

20:57

Shockingly, 139 communities have vanished in only four years.

21:04

Over 2,000 communities have disappeared in six decades.

21:10

However, just take the village of Kuttsu, for example.

21:16

It was abandoned fifty years ago,

21:19

but still the spirit of that place

21:22

remains in the memories of those people who used to call it home.