Oo, that feels soooooo good.

Perhaps you've travelled around Japan, but have you tried, really tried, onsen hot springs?

Japan has around 3,000 natural onsen, and the more out-of-the-way ones are the most intriguing.

A short train trip from the hustle and bustle of the cities can take you to a whole, different world.

A world where you can enjoy local culture and soak in mineral-rich springs.

We hot spring lovers are going to show you around some of Japan's more remote onsen.

In this episode, we visit three onsen in the northeastern Tohoku region.

This is a great way to find and enjoy local cuisine, and meet local people to discover a hidden side of Japan.

Sukayu Onsen, Aomori Pref.
A traditional hot spring cure.

Aomori Station is a three-and-a-half-hour ride from Tokyo, then it's another hour by taxi to the onsen.

Hello, I'm going to Sukayu Onsen.

Sukayu Onsen?
No problem.

Off we go.

Over there you have the Hakkoda Mountains.

I see.

So that's where we're heading?

Wow, it really is out of the way.

People long ago went there to treat illnesses,
because the waters are good for the body.

Interesting!

That sounds perfect.

I've been feeling out of sorts lately, so I have high hopes for the so-called "hot-spring cure."

Apparently, there's more to it than just soaking in a bath, and it's best to stay at least a week.

But I'm just here for a night to unwind and recharge.

-Here we are.
-Thank you.

-Irasshaimase.
-Finally here.

Here is your room for the night.

Hmm. Just right for one.

They must get quite a few people coming for a solo retreat.

There's time before dinner, so off for a soak.

Okay, what's this?

Ah! This board spells out four steps for the most effective way to get all the benefits of the Sukayu hot-spring cure.

It's supposed to stimulate blood circulation and raise your body temperature, without putting unnecessary strain on the body.

Hmm...

It's huge! No wonder they call this bath the "Sennin-buro".

It's so big it feels like it could fit 1,000 people, like the name says.

The steam makes for such a mysterious atmosphere.

It only seems to be men, right now, although it is a mixed bath.

Okay, time to rinse off and get in.

Step one, soak in the first bath for up to five minutes.

Ah, this feels good.

"Men"|"Women"

Huh. Such a high ceiling without any supporting pillars.

Oo, my skin is starting to tingle.

...You can sure smell the sulfur in this bath.

That's something you have to get used to with hot springs in Japan.

Step two, soak in the second bath for up to five minutes.

Ow. Hmm...This is a bit hotter than the last one.

The first bath was 41-degrees Celsius.

This one seems two or three degrees hotter.

Your body needs to get accustomed to the heat in increments.

Step three, stand under the waterfall for three minutes for a back and shoulder massage.

Ouch. It's strong.

...Ooooh, but it really hits the spot.

For the fourth and final step, back into the first bath for another three minutes.

It's only taken about 20 minutes, but it sure has warmed me to the core.

Top class.

Where are you from?

Nagoya.

That far away?

My wife has passed on,

but we came here four
or five times together.

Japanese love "onsen".

This couple here seem to be enjoying the bath.

It must be special being able to take an onsen together.

Excuse me, do you come here often?

This is our third time.

It's great. Especially in the mixed baths,
we can relax and chat together.

It's a different atmosphere, and you can
say things that you usually couldn't.

This seems to be the perfect place for a weekend away with someone special.

After you finish the bathing course, they recommend you take a nap for about an hour, so, hey, why not?

They say it's to allow the minerals to seep into the body.

For the onsen cure to really work, you're supposed to repeat the bathing and rest cycle at least three times a day.

...Ah. Now, to let the minerals do their work.

The meals at ryokan inns are my next favorite thing after the baths.

I wonder what's for dinner.

"Shitsurei itashimasu. Irasshaimase."

"Konban wa."

This is tuna and flounder sashimi-

beef tongue stew-

and finally, salt-grilled charr.

Thank you.

It all looks delicious.

I like the balance of flavors ryokan meals offer.

They're a great way to appreciate local ingredients and cuisine.

And the local sake, of course, is the perfect accompaniment.

A full stomach always makes me sleepy.

Maybe I'll turn in for the night.

Okay, as part of the onsen cure, the ryokan provides health consultations.

So, let's see what they've got to say.

"Konnichi wa."

"Konnichi wa."

What other activities do you recommend during my stay?

How about going for a walk?

A walk?

-Yes. Let's go.
-Now?

-"Ikimasho. Ikimasho."
-I'm not dressed for a walk. Give me a minute.

It's beautiful.

Mt. Odake.

I guess so...

So, why did you recommend this hike? Is this part of the onsen cure?

When a guest seems restless,
I take them for a walk through the forest.

The trees in this beech forest
are about 50 to 60 years old.

Oh, it's a young forest.

...But she's right. Taking time to connect with nature soothes the soul.

I wonder if this is what they call "forest bathing?" I'm starting to see the appeal...

Trekking or strolling through nature,
like this, and chatting together along the way,

I think, is a kind of healing
and part of our "onsen" cure.

I don't really feel like going back yet, so I'll push on alone.

"Konnichi wa."

"Konnichi wa."

What are you looking for?

The steam rising over there is volcanic gas.

The "ryokan"'s guests walk around here,
so I'm checking for hazards.

So, where are we going?

See that bubbling up
over there?

It's scorching hot,
so don't touch it.

Wow.

What is it?

This is the volcano's blessing,
the source of Sukayu Onsen's waters.

Unless something big like an earthquake happens, we sometimes forget that the Earth is alive.

The Hakkoda Mountains are still volcanically active
and feed the surrounding "onsen."

After that refreshing walk,

getting in the bath feels like not just the spring water but Mother Nature herself is warming me up.

Excuse me, but it's time to clean the bath.
Do you mind popping out for a bit?

Oh. No problem.

The perfect timing to get into the next bath, anyway.

Interesting...Ah. Excuse me, you don't drain the bath first?

We can't completely.
The spring's source is right under the tub.

The water wells up here and there, all over.
There isn't just one spot.

It's not surprising that there's a Shinto deity watching over the onsen.

We pray for the water to continue flowing for Sukayu Onsen.

It's things like this that teach you more about the place than just walking around.

Thank you very much.

It was only one night, but I feel lighter, somehow.

Thoroughly relaxed.

Nyuto Onsen, Akita Pref.
Seven varieties of spring water.

Tazawako Station is about three hours from Tokyo on the shinkansen.

Hello. I'd like to go to Nyuutou Onsenkyou.

No problem.
Please get in.

Thirty minutes by taxi sure beats taking the bus.

The Nyuto Onsenkyo area has seven "ryokan,"
each with its own headspring.

Yes, that's what I've heard, and I'm really looking forward to it.

It's a bit bumpy.
Don't be surprised.

It almost feels like we're headed out on a camping trip, or something.

This is Nyuto Onsenkyo.

Finally...

The black timber exterior really adds to the atmosphere.

Here is your room.

Thank you.

Wow, a traditional hearth?

I wonder if this where they'll serve dinner.

The baths are open 24 hours. We have three
baths in outbuildings and open-air baths, as well.

There are four different water types
to try at your leisure.

Mm. I think I'll pop down, right away.

The light covering of snow is really pretty.

I wanna enjoy the scenery from the water, so I'll head for the women's-only open-air bath first.

Oo, the air is chilly.

Oh. Now, this is the life!

Sitting in a "rotenburo" in the snow.

Absolutely wonderful.

The water is really milky; it feels soft and a little tingly.

I'm sure this will be good for my skin.

Uh? What's that?

That's unusual for an onsen.

There are bubbles rising to the surface.

It's a natural bubble bath.

Okay, time to check out one of the smaller indoor baths with different minerals.

It's cloudier and darker than the last one.

Oo, the smell of the sulfur is strong.

It's interesting to feel how the various spring qualities feel on the skin.

This is totally different! It's smooth and gentle with less tingling.

Here is your dinner.

Ah, this looks so good.

This is charr.
The water is cold this time of year,

so it's quite firm,
and it tastes good grilled.

It goes well with sake.

And the main is a local dish.

This is "yamanoimo" hot pot.

That smells wonderful.

We grate locally grown
mountain yam for this hot pot.

It is tasty,
so I hope you enjoy it.

I wonder what the local brew tastes like.

I read somewhere that charr only lives in pristine mountain streams.

She said they caught this nearby.

It's plump and juicy.

Mm. It goes perfectly with the sake.

The owner is really proud of their hot pot.

Wonder what it tastes like?

It has fluffy mountain yam dumplings simmered in a rich miso broth.

Excuse me.
Sorry to intrude.

How was your meal?

It was delicious.

I'm glad to hear that.

How long have you been running this "ryokan?"

It's been 45 years since
we took over.

Oh, that long?

At the time, there was of course no electricity
or running water, and the road was gravel.

We had few guests, and the buildings
were shabby and ready to fall down.

We had no money,

so my husband hired some heavy equipment
and dug the "rotenburo" himself.

I hope you enjoy soaking in it.

The atmosphere in the "rotenburo" at night is totally different.

Hearing personal stories, like how the owners fought to make a go of the business out here in the middle of nowhere,

make travel more interesting.

Mm. I think I'll try a different bath this morning.

Oo. Wow, this is hot. That's quite a wakeup!

The water looks the same as the other baths, but it's more slippery.

I bet it's great for the skin.

Interesting how the baths are close together, but each has a different feel.

You'd think being so close would mean the water would have the same properties.

Okay, let's go see what the baths at other "ryokan" in the area are like.

Brrrr... It's so cold out here.

The "ryokan" I want to visit looks a bit far.

Is everything okay?

I'm going to a nearby "onsen."

It'll take an hour to walk there.
I'll give you a lift, if you want.

Are you sure?

Get in.

People around here are really friendly.

-Here we are.
-Thank you so much. You saved me a lot of hassle.

"Sayonara."

Now, to warm myself up.

Wow, one bath is brown and the other is clear.

Let's try the clear one first.

Oo. My body's so cold, the heat stings.

The water seems thick and feels good on the skin.

It's actually just the right temperature.

What a nice location.

Now for the brown bath.

Oo. The water in this one is more refreshing.

The smell has a hint of iron.

The iron in the spring water oxidizes giving the bath its rusty color.

It's interesting how the weather affects the water's color.

Soaking in "onsen" in remote places, like this, really brings you closer to nature.

I'm definitely coming back here again.

Takayu Onsen, Fukushima Pref.
Looking after the headspring.

Fukushima Station is an hour-and-a-half ride on the shinkansen from Tokyo.

And it's a 30-minute bus ride to the "onsen."

I'm heading to a "ryokan" run by a family carrying on generations of "onsen" tradition.

I hear they're "onsen guardians," meaning that they maintain the springheads themselves.

Next is "Takayu Onsen."

"Next stop"

"Arigato gozaimashita."

Thank you.

Six onsen "ryokan" and one coed "onsen"
located halfway up the Azuma Mountains at an altitude of 2,000m

The whole area smells of sulfur.

I wonder if this is where it's coming from.

That water must be headed to the "onsen" baths.

-Watch your step.
-Thank you.

It's kind of the tourist association staff to show me around.

Wow.What's this?

This is an "onsen" springhead.

So, this is just one of Takayu Onsen's around 10 springheads.

This conduit sends water
to the public bath.

It's interesting how they're still using a wooden duct, instead of more modern, metal pipes.

This is mineral deposited by the hot spring.
It's what makes the bathwater white.

The spring waters flow naturally to
the bathing facilities lower down the slope.

The "onsen" is not powered
with water pumped from a bore.

We do it the way they did
centuries ago.

The owners of the Takayu Onsen inns chose not to mechanize their bathing facilities,

or create an entertainment district, to preserve the tranquility of the area. Very wise.

The way they protect and maintain the hot springs and nature itself makes this place even more special.

Hmm. This must be the family-run "ryokan" I'm staying at.

-Hello.
-"Irasshaimase."

We have been waiting for you.

Satoshi, please show
our guest to his room.

"Irasshaimase."

This is my son.

Hello. Nice to meet you.

I'll take you to your room.

This way.

Is the "onsen" totally family run?

Yes, my parents and I run the inn.

We have prepared Room 3 for you.

It's so quiet.

Okay. Now, to try the baths.

The "rotenburo" is that way.

The water is a stunning color.

Oh, this is so nice.

...The water feels thick.

Whoa! Haha. Hot.

I'm so warmed up that I don't feel the cold, at all.

This is so relaxing.

Alright. Dinner time.

I wonder what local delicacies they have for me.

-Sorry to keep you waiting.
-Good evening. This is the main dish?

This is Fukushima beef "shabu-shabu."

What beautiful marbling.

We don't have a chef,
so my husband does the cooking.

We're only a small inn in the middle
of nowhere, so everything is simple.

We hope you enjoy your meal.

There's nothing simple about it. This is a feast.

Let's start with the "shabu-shabu."

Mm. Dipping it in ponzu sounds good.

It looks like it'll just melt in my mouth.

Oh. I'm so full, I don't even want to move.

Oh, the weather has turned.

I find it comforting going to sleep to the sound of rain.

No use wasting the morning. Off to the baths.

Ah. Watching the sun rise from a "rotenburo" is something special.

I think I'll take the long way back to the inn.

Oh, there's Satoshi with his father.

Excuse me, what are you doing?

We're cleaning out the pipes.

The sulfur in the water sticks to the pipes.

Without cleaning, they'll block up
and won't fill the baths.

I will the water to run clean
with all my heart.

It seems they do everything by hand.

It must be tough.

Rain, snow, or shine, the pipes must be cleaned twice a week.

That's what it means to be an "onsen guardian."

So, are you teaching Satoshi the ropes?

I'm not necessarily teaching him.
He watches and he learns.

My father never exactly
taught me either.

It's easy to pick up naturally.

Satoshi's father is the fifth generation to run the inn, so the family has probably done it this way for ages.

It's demanding running an inn
in the middle of the mountains.

I sometimes doubt if I want
my son to struggle, too,

but it pleases me that we get
to work together like this.

Coming through.

It's in.

So, what was that you inserted?

Grasses. They catch on the mineral deposits
and clean the pipe along the way.

Got it.

So, do you plan on taking over as guardian of the springhead?

Watching Dad,
I still have much to learn.

He's the best "onsen guardian"
in Japan.

That's my goal,
but it's also a high bar.

I hope I can surpass him
in the future.

I look up to him.

The water is beautiful and clean.

You know, after seeing them cleaning the pipes, it feels like the water is fresher.

Or is it just my imagination?

"Domo arigato gozaimashita."

Did you have a relaxing time?

It was the peak of luxury. Thank you.

We look forward to having you again. "Arigato gozaimashita."

Good luck, Satoshi.

I'll do my best.

It was wonderful.

"Arigato gozaimashita."

Take care.

This trip was an amazing experience.

The remote, hidden "onsen" of Tohoku - are you tempted to try them on your next visit?

There are many more to explore.

Come with us again on more remote "onsen" trips across Japan.