I'm on a train from Naples Italy, heading south.

I'm on my way to a port town overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.

And after we go through the tunnel...

...Salerno!

Oh, the sea is glistening!

And the harbor is so large!

During the Middle Ages, Salerno was home to Europe's oldest medical school

and nobility came from all over the continent to receive treatment.

Today, it's a busy tourist spot for vacationers visiting the Amalfi Coast.

And here I am at Salerno Station.

Everyone walks so fast!

Well, then. Off I go!

Such glorious weather!

It's nine in the morning.

Is that a cafe? Lots of people there!

Let's see. Where's my map?

With the Salerno Cathedral at its center, Old Town stretches along the coast.

Right now, I'm near the sea, east of Old Town.

First, I think I'll stroll along the coast.

Just look at the sea sparkling so beautifully in the morning sun.

Makes me feel so good!

Ah, a pup!

Good morning!

And the pier has a walking area for pedestrians.

Good morning!

The people of Salerno are so healthy and energetic.

Oh, the mountains are so beautiful!

Just look at all these boats.

Hey— why are all those seagulls gathered in that one spot?

Whoa, what is underneath all the seagulls.

Ah! A fishing boat.

It must have just returned to the harbor.

The seagulls are getting breakfast.

So did you bring back something delicious?

Cod and gurnard.
Depends on what you like.

What do you recommend?

Monkfish, I guess.

Which one's that?

Here. The gray ones.

Oh?

They make a nice soup.

Really?

Wow!

Cut it into chunks, fry it in oil,
add tomatoes and simmer.

Mmm! Makes my mouth water!!

Yeah, it's really good.

It has lots of vitamins
and antioxidants.

Antioxidants?

Yes, eating fish is healthy.

Health is everything.

It is! You seem very healthy.

I donate blood.

Wow!

I used to donate twice a year.

That's really impressive!

- That's a net called rezzaglio.
- Hi, Dad.

Don't you know?
When you throw it, it spreads out.

Your father?

Have you worked here a long time?

I'm 83.

You're in great shape!

Thanks for talking with me.

Bye.

And good luck!

Wow, he's still working.

He used to donate blood twice a year.

Salerno fishermen are a strong bunch!

Think I'll head back into town.

These tall buildings are in the new part of town.

Old town should be just a little bit further ahead.

What a huge tree!

Wait.

Is it a tree? Or is it ivy?

My goodness!

Those stone arches look really old.

According to my guidebook, they're part of an aqueduct that was built in the 9th century.

Oh look! Cars can drive through the arches!

At a height of more than 20 meters, the aqueduct was considered innovative at the time.

The "Bridges of the Devil" is said to have been built in one night by a 12th-century alchemist, with the help of demons.

Fascinating!

That looks like an apartment complex.

It must be interesting to live in a residential area with these aqueducts.

I think I'll ask someone about it.

Good morning!

Good morning.

These aqueducts are amazing, aren't they?

Yes, indeed.

The water source is that way, I think.

This brought water to the monastery.

I see.

That was centuries ago.

It's part of Salerno's
identity and soul.

The city's identity.

It is amazing to see medieval and modern structures standing side by side.

It's quite a contrast.

Cars and a medieval aqueduct.

I like the contrast, myself.

It broadens your perspective
and enriches your outlook on life.

Fascinating!

Take care, now.

Thank you.

The identity of Salerno? Hmm?

Seeing this every day might well change a person's outlook.

Ah, there are more people here.

That looks like a plaza over there.

Is that a large tree in the middle?

It looks like red and yellow flowers are hanging from the branches.

That net above the plaza is interesting.

Is it there to keep pigeons out?

I'll ask that woman over there.

Hello!

I would like to ask about the net up there.

It lights up at night and glows blue.

The trees and sky are all lit up.

Amazing.

The net shines bright blue.

Ah, decorative illumination?

It must look beautiful!

All the main streets are
lit up like that.

Interesting!

Has this been going on for a long time?

During Covid, it was canceled.
It was cut back.

It was started up again last year.

But this year, it was cut back
due to electricity costs.

The government's struggling.
It's our taxes, after all!

Ha, ha!

You should come see it.

I might just do that.

My pleasure.

Goodbye.

Ah, landscape lighting!

The city is struggling with expensive electric bills...

But I bet it looks beautiful!

Ah, there's an interesting looking alley through the arch.

I think I'll check it out!

The flagstones look really great!

It's like going back in time to the Middle Ages.

AH, there are more flowers like the ones in the plaza.

And the lighting, too.

Cars aren't allowed to drive through this area in order to preserve the townscape.

So, it's great for walking.

Ahh, here comes a new customer.

What?

Come in here!

Are you the proprietor?

Hello there.

Hi!

We have prosecco from
northeast Italy

and local anchovies.

You seem to be enjoying yourselves.

It's good to start drinking at 8:00 AM.
Good wine is good for you.

"A glass of wine a day
keeps the doctor away."

Is that so?

So, all of you agree that wine is good for you?

Very good! Because
it makes us happy.

And lets us forget the
reality we hate.

That's right.

Especially good wine!!

Well, enjoy yourselves.

See you! Have a good day!

Goodbye.

It looks like they had a bit more than one glass.

They seemed to be having fun.

I'm envious!

Hello! I'm Alessandro Vece, a historian.

I'd like to introduce you to an important book published in Salerno.

Salerno has flourished since the time of ancient Greece.

In the 9th century, it was the center city of the Lombards, a Germanic people.

In the 11th century, the city reached its peak of prosperity as a commercial center when it was under Norman rule.

With its large harbor,

Salerno became a focal point for Arab and Jewish science that spurred the development of medicine.

Situated on the shore of the Mediterranean Sea and surrounded by natural beauty,

there were also hot springs nearby.

Aristocrats came from abroad attracted by the prospect of healing.

This is the historical context for the founding of Europe's oldest medical school around the 10th century.

Doctors gathered from all over the world to polish their skills

and contribute to the development of the medical profession.

Though it's called a "school," it didn't have a single location.

Classes were held in churches and monasteries, including the symbol of the city, Salerno Cathedral.

Please come and take a look.

The inside of this cathedral is truly magnificent.

Due to the medical school, Salerno became a richer, prosperous city.

And now I will introduce the Salernitan Rule of Health,

a medieval didactic poem in hexameter verse, a product of Salerno's medical school.

A book on preventive medicine that guides healthy lifestyle habits and dietary habits.

At the time, it was groundbreaking.

There are some things written that are still relevant today.

For example:

"When you get up in the morning
be sure to comb your hair and brush your teeth."

"Do not live close to foul odors
and stagnant water."

"Do not eat a large meal
before going to sleep."

"Wine, lovers, and baths are good
for your health, but practice moderation."

Over the course of a thousand years,

Salernitan Rule of Health was translated into many languages and became a worldwide best seller.

I myself, follow the book's advice to "take it easy and don't agonize" and,

because I also follow the rule of "eating healthy," I'm full of energy...

So, if you're in need of a pick-me-up, please come to Salerno!

Bye!

Two steps at a time!

It's eleven o'clock.

Let's see, where have I been...

I met the fishermen, walked along the aqueduct, and visited the plaza where I heard about the decorative lighting.

Then, I walked through that narrow alleyway and now I'm here.

Here's another narrow alleyway.

Up there on the left, it opens into a courtyard, rather than a street.

I'd like to check it out.

Ah, look, benches.

Nice!

Huh? What's this?

Books! Carefully wrapped in plastic.

What happens if I follow the arrow?

Ah, it looks like someone's back there.

Is it a shop?

- How long have you been in business?
- 20 years at this shop.

I've sold books for 45 years.

Ah, it must be a bookstore.

I'm so glad I found you!
I'll be back.

I'll be here.

Have a good day!

Hello!

Hi.

Is this a bookstore?

Yes, a bookstore.

Mind if I look inside?

Not at all. The books await you!

Thanks.

The books await me.

What a nice thing to say!

Let's see...

Oh, my goodness!

There are so many books spread all over!

How can anyone find what they're looking for?

Oops.

Excuse me!

Uh, you sure have a lot of books here.

That's true.

It's a bookstore.

How many books do you have?

I don't know exactly.
Between 10,000 and 11,000, I guess.

So many!?

I don't have much space, though.

I can see that.

So I have to pile them up.

It's like a treasure hunt.

Customers enjoy finding things.

They can be a bit eccentric.

Say, do you have Salernitan Rule of Health?

Many copies, yes.

Of course! This is Salerno!

There it is.

See? Here are some.

These, too.

Wow!

I have many. A lot.

A true native.

See?

One...

Two...

There sure are a lot of different editions.

Does it still have influence over life in Salerno today?

Lots of folks in their
80s and 90s live

in Old Town.

Oh?

The wisdom of the old
medieval lifestyle

lives on in them.

The elderly are really spry
and energetic.

That's wonderful.

80-year-olds are youngsters.

If someone that age dies,
they say they died young.

Well, may you follow the ancient rules and stay healthy!

I will! I stick to a
Mediterranean diet.

Goodbye!

Goodbye! May many good
things come to you.

Thank you!

So the Middle Ages live on in Salerno not just in its buildings but in health habits, too.

I wonder if I'll meet any of those energetic old folks?

Ah, it's starting to rain.

I should have stayed a bit longer at the bookstore.

What's in this store?

Hello!

Is it all right if I come in?

Sure.

Thank you.

Oh, this is a hat shop!

Yes.

Oh...

Sorry to interrupt.

How are you?

Hello.

I'm just brushing this hat.

A hatmaker!

There is always dust!

I use steam to clean it.

I see.

There. It's done.

You seem to take pride in your work.

It's clean, now.
Shiny and new.

And you work with a hat on.

You must love hats!

Yes, he always wears one.
Ever since I was born.

Oh! You're his son?

He always wears a hat.

And is he always dressed in a suit?

Always.

He always wears a suit and a hat.

If you don't mind my asking, how old are you?

A difficult question.
How old do I look?

Well...I'll guess 60.

What?

65?

You're getting warmer.

Keep going.

OK, 66?

I'm 76. I'll turn 77
at the end of the month.

Wow! You look so young!

Thank you.

What's your secret?

Doing my job with passion.

Putting all I have into it.

I see.

Thank you so much for your time.

Come back anytime, young lady.
We're always here.

Thank you.

Goodbye!

Bye.

Well, it didn't take me long to meet a spry and energetic senior!

Oops.

I guess people in their seventies don't qualify as "seniors" in Salerno.

Hey, that arch there looks like a tunnel.

Oh, is it a maze? I think I'll check it out.

There's a red and white flag hanging from the balcony.

I wonder what it stands for?

I know it's not the Italian flag...

I think I'll ask.

Hello!

Hello.

What flag is that?

It's the flag of
our favorite team, Salernitana.

Salernitana?

Salerno's soccer team.
It's a Serie A team.

Oh, soccer!

Is that your home team?

We're all going to watch them play.

Oh, there's a match today?

That sounds like a lot of fun!

Nice to talk. Have a good day!

Thank you!

The flag of their soccer team.

My guidebook says that Salernitana is an old franchise founded in 1919.

In 2021, they were promoted to the Serie A title for the first time in 23 years.

Good for them!

Look at all these small arches!

Every time I turn a corner, another charming alleyway appears.

It really is like a maze!

Ahh, and now for a change of pace, a side trip...

I'm on the hunt for a special condiment that's been handed down since the middle ages.

Hello!

Mm.

Plenty of seats.

I'm heading for Cetara, a harbor town about 30 minutes from Salerno by bus along the Amalfi Coast.

Cetara is the home of a prized condiment called colatura,

which is hard to get nowadays even in Italy.

I wonder what it tastes like.

I've reached Cetara!

All right, where should I go to find this illusive condiment known as colatura?

Hey! That sign has the word "colatura" written on it.

Looks like I found my prize already!

Mm? There's a distinctive aroma coming from inside.

Wait! I know that smell— it's like Japanese kusaya: brined fish.

Uh, excuse me.

How are you?

Welcome!

I'm looking for the place where colatura is made.

You've found it.

Great!

I'll show you some colatura.

Thank you.

This way.

Wow! Look at all the barrels!

- I'll sit.
- Please do.

We've used these barrels
for generations.

We cut the heads off anchovies
and pickle them in salt.

Ah, anchovies.

That's the source of that special aroma.

Colatura has been made in Cetara
since the 13th or 14th century.

It's our specialty.

A specialty of Cetara.

He works so carefully, using lots of salt.

Now we wait 3 years.

What? Three...three years!?

Just wait. You're in for a treat.

Yes I'm sure but...three years?

Ah, and a weight on top, just like Japanese pickles.

And what happens after three years?

We express the liquid.
I'll do that now.

Ah! From the bottom of a barrel filled three years ago?

See? Out it comes.

This is colatura.

I see.

It's a fermented fish sauce.

See the dark amber color?

I'd love to taste it.

It's three in the afternoon.

And I'm here in Salerno's Old Town.

Is that a fountain?

It looks like it has a history.

And by the side of the fountain, another alleyway!

I'm going to check it out.

Hmm, let's see.

In the center of Old Town, I met the bookseller and the hatmaker.

And now I'm here, at the western edge of Old Town.

There sure is a lot of graffiti here.

Huh? More graffiti there on the right.

Wait.

Maybe it's not graffiti after all.

That wall, too.

The walls are covered with paintings and writing.

Ah, look!

Straight ahead, there's an angel flying down to earth.

Sole, squid, octopus,
Bensasi goatfish.

What? Bensasi goatfish?

You can catch tiger prawns, too.

Is there someone in there?

Hello.

Yep, there is!

Hello! What are you making?

Making a new net.

For fishing?

Yes, a fishing net.
What else would I be doing?

Didn't mean to sound rude!

Are you making it by hand?

Of course.

Amazing! How big will it be?

150 to 200 meters long.

That's huge!

Do you fish yourself?

Yes, my brother and I.

I see.

Have you been doing this for a long time?

- Well, I'm pretty old.
- Ha, ha!

I'm 74.

That's still young!

Is it?

I started working young.
I was just eight years old.

Wow!

Since you were a little kid, huh?

Did you see the painting
of the angel?

Yes, I did!

It's a nice mural.

I think so, too.

Artists came to paint it.

There are a lot of murals in this neighborhood, aren't there?

Yes, lots of other ones.

Yes.

Further down the alley,
and going the other way, too.

All the walls have murals.

I will check them out!

- Okay.
- Thank you!

Bye.

Take care.

The angel seems to be jumping out of the window.

I wonder what murals I'll be able to see down this way.

According to my guidebook, volunteer artists started coming here about 10 years ago

with wall paint to revitalize the neighborhood.

Ah, there's a cat!

Beautiful!

It says that more than 100 paintings and poems have been completed.

Since there are so many different styles,

I guess that these murals were created by a number of different artists.

Are you afraid because
I'm always giving you shots?

Where's that voice coming from?

What's wrong with her?

- Her throat.
- "That window."

Hello!

Is that your daughter?

Say hello.

Ha, ha!

Your walls are beautiful.

These are poems.
We call it the "Muri d'Autore."

Huh? Who's that?

Ah! Hello!

This is the "Muri d'Autore."

Various artists painted poems
that they like.

I like this one.

Oh?

Wait. I'll come down and explain.

Thank you!

Sorry to trouble you.

See? This is a poem, too.

It's in Neapolitan dialect, so it's
hard for tourists to understand.

But it's a great poem.

What kind of artists painted these murals?

They came from Brazil, Turkey,
the Philippines, Milan...

They stayed with us.

And ate lunch with us.

Wow. That sounds like everyone had a really good time.

It was wonderful!

This used to be a tough area
so no one would come here.

But now tourists visit.

Even people from cruise ships
come to see the art.

- Tourists pass through on their way
to Minerva Gardens.
- Minerva Gardens?!

The gardens are beautiful, too.
You should go.

That's Chaccarella.

Chaccarella?

Hello.

Oh, Hello! Do you live around here also?

- Our faces are painted on a wall.
- That's fabulous!

- You're part of the art!
- Over there.

Would you like to see?
Come on!

Amazing! This is so fascinating!

- Up there!
- I'm in the front.

She's below on the end.

How fabulous!

I'm the third one in.
It looks like I weigh 700 kilos.

Wow! Bigger than life!

Thank you so much.

I'd like to ask about the garden you were talking about.

It's on the hill, with terraces.
It's very beautiful.

There's a public elevator that
connects the levels.

We'll take you there.

- Come on. We'll show you.
- Thank you.

There's an elevator.
Come with us.

The gardens were used to
grow medicinal herbs.

Oh, do you mean for the medieval medical school?

Yes.

A medieval herb garden.

Here? This looks like an underground parking structure.

There's an elevator here?

That's right!

Take this up to get to
Minerva Gardens.

Great! I will!

Thanks to all of you.

Goodbye. Thank you!

Ciao.

Thank you.

Ciao.

Hello! My name is Erica, and I'm a nutritionist.

The medieval health guide Salernitan Rule of Health contains wise advice that's still useful today.

And I'm going to introduce you to three of Salerno's top gourmet dishes.

Here's our first restaurant. Let's go inside!

In third place, is this...

saffron risotto.

And here, it has porcini mushrooms!

According to the Rule of Health, saffron nurtures the heart, nourishes the physical body and strengthens bodies that are weak.

Saffron is harvested from the red pistils of the Crocus sativus.

There are only three in each flower, making it one of the most expensive spices in the world.

In saffron risotto, saffron is used to give the rice a distinctive aroma and color.

Recently, research institutes around the world have reported

that components found in saffron may be effective in treating depression.

I must say, I feel so much happier now!

Here's our next stop.

It's so cute!

Wow!

In 2nd place we have...

Chuck eye roll simmered in pepper!

This dish features moderately priced beef simmered in wine,

but the secret to its delicious flavor is the addition of both powdered and coarsely ground pepper.

And I mean plenty of pepper!

The Rule of Health says that coarsely ground pepper is good for digestion.

It also says that white pepper prevents chills if you develop a cough.

Umm! That smells spicy!

Pepper's aroma and spiciness stimulate the digestive tract, energize peristaltic movement, and promote blood circulation.

And now, for our number one dish.

I'm here at a workplace in the suburbs.

Wow!

Introducing Salerno's number one treat: Figliata di Mozzarella!

A giant ball of mozzarella cheese.

Dating back to the 18th century,

mozzarella cheese which is made with milk from a water buffalo is a famous Salerno product.

Figliata di Mozzarella is a large ball of mozzarella that has smaller mozzarella balls and cream inside.

Wow!

Rich and creamy!

The Rule of Health tells us that cheese revitalizes a tired stomach and is best eaten for dessert.

Mmm! It melts in the mouth!

Natural cheese helps digestion.

Some people eat it at the end of their meal.

The Rule of Health says that wine is good for your health, but don't drink too much.

Ooh, it seems that I've drunk too much.

Mmmm!

This elevator seems to be taking a long time.

Finally! And it opens to the outdoors.

It's four in the afternoon.

Wow, I'm really high up.

What a beautiful view! I can see the whole town.

Where am I?

I walked through the neighborhood with all the murals, and took the public elevator up the hill.

Now I'm here.

Minerva Gardens, where they grow medicinal herbs, must be up ahead.

Hello!

The elevator doesn't just lead to the garden.

It also connects two parts of the town.

Hmm, so where is Minerva Gardens?

Is it that place that up there, with all the plants?

I was right!

It's fabulous! And there are so many different kinds of plants!

Everything is labeled.

The shrubbery is beautifully manicured and all the plants are so well taken care of.

Ah, that guy is pruning the trees.

Hello!

Hello.

You seem to be working hard.

Pruning the trees.
They have to be a certain shape.

I heard that you grow herbs here...?

This is a recreation of the garden
planted by the Medical School.

We're classifying plants according
to their effect on humans.

I see.

For example, aloe is
a "Grade 3" plant.

Grade 3?

Plants are graded by potency to
determine their planting location.

What is aloe used for?

Aloe relieves pain in external wounds.

It's used to treat burns
and skin infections.

They knew that in the Middle Ages, huh?

This is henbane.

It was used as an anesthetic
for surgery.

Wow. They had anesthetic back then, too!

This one's a Grade 1 plant.

Grade 1. So it's very potent, right?

People used to understand the
effects plants had on their bodies.

How many medicinal herbs are there?

We have about 400 different
plant species here.

All of them were actually
prescribed by medieval doctors.

Really? That many?

That's amazing, isn't it!

Do you use medicinal herbs?

I work in green surroundings.
I don't seem to get sick easily.

It's not just the effects of plants

but one's environment that
determines health.

It does seem like a healthy environment here.

Speaking of, all of the people I've met in here have been healthy and vigorous.

That makes me happy.

Thanks for your time!

Have a good trip.

Thank you! Goodbye!

Look, there's the sea!

Ahh.

I met a lot of healthy people down there today.

It's six in the evening.

And now I back at the place where I began my walk this morning!

Ahh, it looks so beautiful!

So this is the decorative lighting that the woman I met this morning was talking about.

Good evening!

Good evening!

Are you from Salerno?

We all began working here
at the same time.

- It's a reunion.
- 30 years of employment.

That's nice. Congratulations!

I heard about Salerno's decorative lighting.

It's beautiful!

- Yes, it's a lot of fun.
- It's like a festival.

Yes, like a festival!

Light and beauty.

It's because of the lights

that I wanted come out
with my friends.

It does look grand.

Thanks. Have a good night.

When a city looks this beautiful, it is so invigorating!

I think I'll check out the plaza where the sky shines blue!

Down this way, I think...

Oh, my!

It looks like all the stars in the sky have come down to illuminate the plaza.

So beautiful!

Spending the day in Salerno has been truly invigorating.

I am feeling so full of energy!