A Buddhist temple lies deep in the mountains of Nara.

Oh no.
I should've cut it lower.

This nun works carefully with simple ingredients, transforming them into superb cuisine.

Such a beautiful color.
Sweet potato jam is uncommon.

But the color's gorgeous.

Be delicious, all right?

She uses mainly vegetables, herbs and wild plants.

The warm flavors slowly permeate the palate and the body.

Let's see.

For her, to eat is to live.

No matter what happens, her days are filled with delicious things.

We began visiting this place in the summer of 2016.

It requires winding up a steep mountain path for 40 minutes.

Our lungs and legs exhausted, we're covered in sweat as we climb the final steps.

But there's a feeling of accomplishment when we finally arrive.

That's how we met this special woman.

I'm going to collect
some wild plants.

Goto Mitsuei has been presiding over this temple for nearly 30 years as the head nun.

She's a master of finding edible plants and flowers to use as ingredients for cooking.

This is kinmizuhiki.

A wild plant with lovely blossoms.

The young shoots are edible.

This is yabukanzo.

It has lily-like buds.
We often cook with them.

How will the "yabukanzo" be prepared?

She holds a meeting with Jito, the deputy head of the temple, and the helper Matchan.

Top it with mashed tofu sauce
so it won't lose its taste.

It'll go well with miso.

Yes, but we don't want to
ruin this lovely color with miso.

So we'll use sweet vinegar,
or make it into tempura.

These wild, often-overlooked plants are transformed like magic into a delicious dish.

There's another surprise.

Hurry up.

Despite the remote location, a steady stream of visitors arrives bearing food.

- Good morning.
- Cold, isn't it?

Yes, but it's better today.

This man pulls six cartons of milk out of his rucksack.

He comes each week without fail.

Here you go.

What do you think it is?

- Cheese?
- Yes.

It's cream cheese made with the milk
your grandpa brings us.

The head nun Mitsuei even makes cheese.

Smells like yoghurt.

One, two, lift.

Looks great.

As a thank-you gift, she's made a pizza using Ue's milk.

Lift your heels.

Otowasan Kannonji Temple has a history of over 1,200 years.

The Kannon statue that's enshrined here is said to have the power to cure diseases of the eye.

Mitsuei arrived here in 1989, when she was 38.

At that time, the temple was in bad shape.

It took her seven years to repair it with the help of her neighbors.

It's in a very inconvenient location.

It was on the verge
of being abandoned.

Weeds were growing
on the roof, which leaked.

Over half of the tatami mats were ruined,
and there was no place to rest.

So we replaced the torn
sliding paper doors, and cleaned up the dirt,
wiped everything down.

Made it all clean and shiny.

If I act, then the temple
can be maintained.

I feel this life suits me.

There is a brightness
to everyday life.

Good morning.

The 17th of every month is a red-letter day.

It's when the Kannon Fair is held.

People come from all over Japan to pay their respects to Kannon, the goddess of mercy.

Everyone is welcomed with Mitsuei's signature hospitality.

- How shall I cut it?
- That's good.

Add some coriander.

Actually, it's not coriander.

We call mitsuba "Otowa coriander."

They use the mitsuba from the garden instead of coriander.

- Looks delicious.
- It is delicious.

It really is.

- Feel the spiciness at the end.
- That's perfect. Some chili peppers.

Perfect.

They should love it.

This is so fun, isn't it?

Eating together the offerings
everyone brought.

So this is how it turns out.

Everyone is smiling.

Eat as much as you like.

Have some more.

It's very calm and welcoming.

At least until early spring 2020.

The COVID pandemic spread around the world.

Annual events at the temple were suspended, and the number of visitors from outside the region decreased.

Jito and Matchan left the temple.

Jito started working as a school and hospital counselor, and Matchan as an illustrator.

We returned to the temple in September 2021 when the pandemic had somewhat subsided.

After such a long time, the stairs seem even more daunting.

Whoo, we made it.

We're going to Mitsuei's garden.

The watchdog, Osamu, looks healthy.

Hmm... It's kind of narrow here.

The plants have closed in.

A question?

Yes.

There's hardly any space.

The path is so narrow.
People can't believe this.

What happened?

Because of COVID, I had free time,
so I grew lots of things.

Including vegetables.

You're growing vegetables?

These green peppers got crooked
due to a lack of nutrients.

Insects attacked them
so they turned out like this.

Are these green peppers too?

They're paprika.

They're supposed to turn yellow
but they don't.

I pick them before
that happens.

These are the last of them,
these shiso leaves.

They turn red and
are really beautiful.

I have some basil here.
This is the last one.

She's been growing these herbs for a long time.

Good afternoon.

- I'm Inui.
- Yes, I know.

- Good afternoon.
- Good afternoon.

He's helped out here
for nearly 20 years.

Here are the vegetables
you asked for last spring.

You brought them.

They're heavy.

Even during COVID, Inui still comes as usual.

Can you get though?

After he retired, he found this temple during a hike through the mountains.

Since then, he's been helping out around the mountain and in the garden.

Here's what you asked for.

Asked?

I buy the seeds, he plants them
and takes care of them.

There's eggplant,
green peppers, and this.

You asked him?

Yes, I had him grow these.

Inui is good at growing things?

He's very skillful.

This one.
This is golden sesame.

It's really beautiful.

It was this week, or last week.
It's finally ready.

Fantastic.

This golden sesame is precious.

Inui is proud of every one of these vegetables.

I'm hungry.

How about lunch?

Will you use this?

I'll make sesame sauce
for somen noodles.

- Sesame sauce?
- Yes.

I haven't eaten that much.

- Do you want to try it?
- Sure.

Wow, it smells wonderful,
doesn't it?

Then add the ground herbs.

Herbs?

Sounds impressive, but it's just shiso,
wild sesame, things like that.

Fresh herbs from the garden.

Are you trying to create something new?

That's basil, wild sesame,
and shiso leaves.

I wonder what it'll taste like.

It's the end of summer,
so let's enjoy precious summer herbs.

How will it taste?

- You'll see.
- Kind of enigmatic.

It turned out beautifully.

Working together, it took them only 20 minutes.

She's put tomatoes and myoga on some refreshing somen noodles.

Here's the sesame sauce made with Mitsuei's special herbs.

How is it?

The basil is more prominent than the shiso.
A little too much sesame oil.

It's really good.

Right?

It's great.
Living here, surrounded by flowers.

Yes, it is. All of this.

But don't you get lonely?

No.

Not at all?

If you live there, you enjoy it.

I believe so.

I like living here.

Is that so?

I don't have anywhere else to go.

Everyone's the same.

This is so nice.
Pleasant morning.

This is the end of the season.
It was quite beautiful.

With the cooler mornings and evenings,
they've lost their bloom.

These have peaked.
Fushiguro-senno.

The anemones are already blooming.
It's autumn.

A lot have fallen.

Temples in the autumn are littered with ginkgo nuts.

I pick them up every morning.

They're an important food for us.

Ginkgo nuts are a specialty of this temple.

Some years, they gather 100 kilograms.

But last year there weren't many.

Only about half a bucket.

In autumn?

Yes.

Is that common?

First time.

I'd always thought that
the ginkgo nuts would fall every autumn.

But they didn't. It concerns me.

That's worrying.

I just have to shake it off.
It is what it is.

You can't go against nature.

I'm trying to see the brighter side.

Last year because of COVID,
everything was on hold.

I could take a break too.

It was easy since
I didn't gather any.

You can see it's turning yellow.

Looks promising.

This large ginkgo is over 600 years old.

For a long time, it's kept a watchful eye over the temple.

I want it to point that way a little.

Mitsuei became a nun when she was 29, following the death of her mother.

My mother died at 65.
I was the youngest of seven kids.

I'd always hold on to her clothes or her hand
whenever we went anywhere.

It was a huge shock when she died.
I cried for three days.

I prayed in front of a buddha every day
during the 49-day mourning period.

Being near the Buddha
gave me peace of mind.

You're here.

Oh, Junko.

- I brought some red bean paste.
- Thank you.

Dango.

Moon-viewing dumplings.

Junko's family has supported the temple for generations.

She's Mitsuei's closest confidante and friend.

I've known her ever since
she came to the temple in 1989.

A long time.

Just shape the bottom.

A taro root.

How's this?

It's oddly shaped.

They're small ones.

We wash them well and
offer them for moon viewing.

That's how they're shaped.

Like taro.

It's a local dish.

She is an Otowa native
down to her roots.

In the past, we used
soft brown sugar.

We used to dip this in.

It was sweet and delicious.

Moon-viewing for two.

That's fun.

It really is.

I always make the figs
into a compote.

I eat them raw or make jam.

Did you think of something?

In French cuisine...

Huh?

Peel them, add some starch,
and deep fry them.

They're delicious
with a starchy sauce.

Add starch, fry them, with a starchy sauce.
That's so Japanese.

True.

Let's try it.
I've never done this.

Beautiful.

- They're fresh.
- That's right.

It's paprika, for sure.

Looks good.

I wonder if we'll see
the moon tonight.

That would make me happy.

A meal for moon-viewing?

Yes.

Made from what's growing
in the field.

It really is.

This is eggplant Junko grew topped with sweet miso paste.

Soba seeds with fragrant miso.

With the yuzu miso, it's very refreshing.

Fried with the vegetables, the sweet figs are mixed in a thick starchy sauce.

Let's start with the full-moon soup.

There are three full moons
in the bowl.

A reflection?

It's good that you put a lot in.

The sudachi limes.

Listen, the crickets are chirping.

They're chirping.

There goes a jet.

- This is so luxurious.
- It really is.

The moon moved over there.

We were looking in the wrong place.

Too focused on food.

- Between the ginkgo trees.
- Yes, next to the cypress.

It's glittering.

The ginkgo leaves are waving
in the wind.

It's beautiful.

So nice to eat delicious dumplings
while gazing at the moon.

How wonderful.

In autumn, COVID measures were relaxed.

The temple's ginkgo tree has turned a brilliant color.

The Kannon Fair is approaching.

It's beautiful, isn't it?

A little early this year.

It's different each year.

The maple tree leaves over there
have turned red.

I look forward to the leaves
turning red and yellow each day.

Even if it seems just like last year,
nothing is exactly the same.

I like that daily transformation.

I'm thankful for autumn's gifts.

The weather is so nice.

It's been a good harvest.

We dry them like this.

You're sharing them with the fair visitors.

Our ginkgo nuts are
sweet and delicious.

I'd like our visitors to enjoy them.

That sounds nice.

The sound of waves.

The foothills also welcome the autumn harvest.

It's been good here.

That person speaking over there looks like Junko.

Hello, sorry to speak to you from up here.
We always talk like this.

A neighbor?

That's right.

You two are good friends.

Yes, yes.

I'm up here saying to her,
"Oh is that you?"

Or how are you, Junko?

We enjoy talking to each other.

Yatchan divides some vegetables for the temple.

This is great, Yatchan.

This year...

- It's wonderful.
- They've all gotten so big.

This is too big.

They'll be fine for pickling.
Don't worry.

I wonder if Mitsuei will use them.

She'll use them.

Tomorrow's the Kannon Fair.
Bring them to her.

I'm sure she'll be pleased.

We gave things to her predecessor but
Mitsuei arrived when she was young.

The temple's really up
in the mountains.

We want her to do well there,
we try to help her.

We can grow these vegetables
and let her use them.

She's happy to get them.
We want to keep helping her out by growing more delicious vegetables.

They're heartfelt gifts from the village down below.

Enough for 60 people?

- About 4.5 kilos of rice?
- Let's do it.

They're preparing for the Kannon Fair.

This is Aoki Noriko. She comes
every month to help out with the fair.

You didn't come during
the COVID pandemic.

I was off during
the emergency declaration.

They're crackling.

You have to stir them
so they don't burn.

Really? This is hard work.

It's not easy.

Like you're being burnt.

It's tough.

Let's turn down the heat a bit.

Every time we do this,
we moan, "It's hot, it's hot."

The ginkgo nuts are beautiful,
at their peak.

The color is gorgeous.

What will you do with the ginkgo nuts?

Make autumn rice.

I'll put in the ginkgo nuts,
special rice, and mukago.

Was the fair held during the pandemic?

Many believers look forward to it.
They've been coming here for years.

Even for me, no matter how much I like it,
I won't be living here forever.

I'm just one link in this temple's
long chain of history.

I have to do my best
to keep that chain intact.

Delicious ginkgo nuts.
Here we go.

That's a generous amount.

I'll heap it up.
It'll be delicious.

I'm looking forward to it.

These came from Yatchan.

Wow, they're beautiful.

Really cute.

Lovely turnips.

They all look delicious, don't they?
So fresh.

We'll lightly pickle them,
including the leaves.

- These might also be good that way.
- They're lovely.

Even the radishes.
They'll be good pickled with yuzu.

Without pickles,
you don't feel like eating rice.

That's quite a sound.
Are you cutting the board too?

No, I'm not.
Just sounds like it.

It's beautiful.
So lovely.

These radishes are really fresh.

They should be wonderful.

The moisture is coming out.

It'll be delicious.

The visitors start to arrive.

Good morning.

Good morning.

Thank you.
You've been a big help.

Just tell us what to do.

Right away, the visitors start lending a hand.

That's good.

The juice from the pickles
will come out.

Yes, thank you.

Looks delicious.

There are the taro roots, radishes,
carrots, fried tofu.

The offerings from the village include plenty of seasonal vegetables.

Now they're ready to share the tastes of autumn.

To reassure visitors, they‘ve taken precautions to prevent the spread of COVID, such as placing acrylic panels on the tables, and using extra care with dishes.

The main attraction today is sticky rice with lots of ginkgo nuts.

It has a soft stickiness.

And they've changed the pickling bath to match the color of each vegetable.

Yatchan, thank you so much!

- Did you eat?
- Yes, I did.

Has everyone eaten?

Yes, we all ate. It was delicious.

Nice and warming.

I'm glad.

See you.

Thank you very much.

Pleasure to have you, thank you.

See you next month.

It gets cold
in the late afternoon.

Take care.

Do you get a little lonely when everyone's gone?

Yes, but more than that,
I'm thankful they came.

I know they'll be back,
so it's not lonely.

It's enjoyable.

You're very confident they'll return.

Yes, I'm confident.

It'll be delicious.

Please come up.

It's so cold today.

Really cold.

I wrapped it.
Shall I take it off?

It's OK, leave it like that.

I'm glad we could do this
again this year.

Thanks very much.

Thank you.

On New Year's Eve, the families from down the mountain offer "kagami mochi," a traditional New Year's decoration.

Thank you for your consideration.

Since long ago, the people from the village
have been offering kagami mochi.

It adds some brightness.

They do this every year.

Look at this cute face.

It's cold this morning.

Familiar music is emerging from the kitchen.

Oh, she's doing her exercises here today.

Good morning.

Good morning.

You're not outside today.

I'm staying inside.
It's cold out there.

It's still dark.

Here, it's warm.

It figures that when I was young
and could dash around, I felt that I could handle anything.

But gradually, there's a limit
to what I can do.

It's only natural.

I've stayed here year after year,
and I'm getting old.

I accept everything,
including aging.

Accepting nature, I live here,
accepting everything as it comes.

Fortune in...

Fortune in...

Hi, Osamu.

Fortune in...

Tasty, aren't they?

Here we go, Osamu.
Catch.

Fortune in...

Fortune in...

You caught them all.

Even if she's alone, she'll prepare special dishes for the seasonal event.

Shiitake mushrooms.
I'll use well-dried ones.

They open up well.

I'll use dried gourd, shiitake, spinach.

Today is "Setsubun."

She's making rolled sushi.

I just picked them.
They have dirt on them.

Shredded radish expands.
They say don't add too much at once.

The dried vegetables play a big part.

These two are the same color.
That one's brown. Green, red.

Even if you cook them,
these walnuts stay brown.

You don't use dried carrots?

If you dry them, the color
becomes dull and they shrink.

When that happens, they don't have
much presence in the sushi roll.

These are thick so they stand out.

Looks good.

In goes the gourd.

Simmer gently.

It's better to add spices
when they're a little soft.

These are the mushrooms.

She cooks all the ingredients separately.

The gourd isn't very salty-sweet.

The shiitake should be cooked
salty-sweet.

If you cook them together,
they lose their individual flavors.

These smell really strongly
of vegetables pickled in sake lees.

1, 2, 3.

Even in winter when there aren't many fresh ingredients, she can make dishes this fresh-looking just with what's on hand.

The sushi rolls have seven types of vegetables packed in tightly.

With flavoring carefully added, they make a great meal.

These dried vegetables have been pickled in sweetened vinegar.

The radish and carrots are crisp.

The persimmon is soft and chewy.

They have an intriguing texture.

The persimmon is also used for tempura, and filled with homemade cream cheese.

It's Mitsuei's newest creation.

"Risshun Daikichi."

The sun is shining.
It really is spring.

The sign of spring.

1, 2...upsy daisy.

Upsy daisy.

Even though it's spring, it's still cold.

But our fukinoto is starting
to come out.

I don't see any.

They're very small.
It would be a pity to pick them now.

There are some here, too.
They're even smaller.

That's how they are.

Amazing you found them.

They're too small.
I can't bring myself to pick them yet.

Hi there.

Good afternoon.

- It's cold, isn't it?
- Sure is.

It's started to snow.

You've grown some amazing things
at your place.

It's spring.

Down the mountain it's spring.

I found these.
I thought I'd bring them.

Thank you.

The seri's so big.

It got pretty big.

These are flowers.

You put in some flowers.

This is such a lovely spot to eat.

Thank you.

Shall we?

This is the taste of spring.

The seri is delicious.

It's wonderful.

Delicious, this seri.

When spring arrives, even though
it's still cold, these plants come out.

- I look forward to it.
- Me too.

When I find them, I absolutely must pick them.
I always go out to pick them.

I'm so thankful.
For the blessings of nature.

Exactly.
I'm really thankful to nature.

Truly thankful.

You think there's nothing here,
but if you search, you can find things.

They say there's nothing here.

And ask what I do in a place
that has nothing?

But I say there's so much to do.
I have no free time.

If you search,
there's everything here.

Everyone comes to help.

I'm thankful for that.

But down there, they say
Mitsuei is a real taskmaster.

Even so, they happily
climb up here to help.

As spring returns to the temple, it's time for another rich and active day.