In a small mountain town of just five people, we visit the kitchen of Isogai Hamako, sharing in distinctive foodways and smiles along the way.
Far from the outside world, a village in the clouds.
Hundreds of years ago, our ancestors first cultivated these mountain fields.
They're something we treasure.
Raising crops suited to the mountain terrain for generations,
they developed distinctive foodways.
Every ball I roll contains a prayer.
I hope all will eat and enjoy them.
Autumn has come for this mountain family.
Let's follow their story by looking through the kitchen window.
Tokushima in western Japan.
Deep in the mountains is the village of Mikidochi.
Just three farming families make up this community, all leading a nearly self-sufficient existence.
One of the residents here is Isogai Hamako.
I'm planting "daikon" radish seeds.
Now all they need is rain to grow.
Pretty easy work, right?
These steep terraced fields were carved out of the mountainside by their ancestors some 400 years ago.
Stones leftover from those days are everywhere.
Plants able to grow in this rocky barren soil have been passed down for generations.
These also come from native seeds.
They're not store-bought, so they're hardy enough for this poor soil.
It's the rugged terrain.
Who'd imagine anyone could farm here?
With the arrival of autumn, a certain crop is ready for harvest.
This one's pretty big.
Konjac.
Native to Southeast Asia, it's a kind of root vegetable.
This delicate plant is known to be hard to cultivate.
If they're damaged only slightly, rain will make them rot.
They can't get too much sun either, like very picky children.
That's why they're here by the wall, in a spot that's half in shade.
This is the place they've chosen.
They're saying, "We want to be here."
But one benefit to raising this finicky plant is that
the mountain's wild animals don't like to eat them.
It's actually toxic.
Even monkeys pass them by.
The knowledge to make the roots safe to eat
has also been passed down for generations.
They're boiled for an hour and a half.
After blending it into a paste, she adds...
Ash water to remove the toxins.
Even most Japanese people don't know this.
Ash from straw blended with water makes an alkaline solution.
After removing any toxins, the mixture congeals.
This is how konjac is made. The wisdom of the past is amazing.
The way Hamako makes it by hand has become a rarity.
I'm putting on their makeup.
Nice and shiny.
Boiled for two more hours, once they redden and become firm, they're ready.
Delicious!
It has a wonderful chewy texture.
The konjac itself actually has little flavor, and practically zero calories.
But over winter, when vegetables are in short supply, it helps to fill the belly.
Torn up like this they absorb more flavor.
I add sugar.
Homemade miso.
Can you smell it?
All done.
It's simple but perfect!
From a nearby village, Hamako came here as a bride at the age of 24.
Her husband, Katsuyuki, a 16th-generation local,
comes from the family that first cultivated these lands.
We've been doing it this way since my parents' day.
While selling the produce they grew together, they've raised three children.
I was up at 3 am and worked all day till 10:30 every evening.
I never thought it was hard. It was just what I had to do.
But over the past half-century, the village population dropped from 30 to only 5.
Her children have all chosen to work in the city.
It was sad that everyone went away to earn a living in the city.
It felt like I was being left behind.
But in 2018, something changed.
Their traditional mountain farming methods were designated as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System.
The unique sloping landscape and local foodways,
passed down for generations, were officially recognized.
Hamako herself organized traditional cooking study tours,
and more people began visiting the village.
I'm having fun.
Visitors love it here.
And that's energizing for me.
It's not only tourists.
Their son Kazuyuki has come back to take over the family farm.
If I'm honest, as a child I swore that I'd never be a farmer.
I just thought of this as ordinary farming, no different from any other method.
But the recognition it received made me see it's something we need to preserve.
I was born and raised here.
So, I want to preserve this landscape as best I can.
Tonight, Kazuyuki's wife Rie has also joined them.
Let's eat.
- There aren't any carrots.
- You want some?
Delicious!
Sharing a meal together like this as a family is true happiness.
- Make sure you record that.
- It's on video!
There's something Hamako always makes on weekends.
Steamed dumplings with potatoes or chestnuts wrapped inside.
A traditional snack.
This variety of small potatoes is found only here in these mountains.
Today, Rie helps make dumplings for the first time.
I've helped her make konjac before, but never dumplings.
Mine aren't quite as good as yours.
They're pretty messy.
You still need some practice.
She always gives her honest opinion.
I think it's because I like her so much that I married her son.
Do I really have such power?!
A 20-minute drive from the village...
And they arrive at a small mountainside hot spring town.
What's on the menu today?
Your konjac is the best, I've been wanting some.
Oh, there're dumplings too!
Try one. Mountain potatoes.
Delicious! The potato is amazing!
Thanks.
I'll take some dumplings too.
- Did you make any mochi?
- Oh, you're the one who called?!
Everyone looks forward to seeing Hamako.
I've wanted to see you!
The chestnut filling is great!
- Rie made those.
- They're really good!
Wow! She's really improved!
We make everything as a family.
I don't do it by myself. Each plant grows thanks to everyone's help.
It's our responsibility to pass all of this on to the next generation.
But after that, it's up to them!