KAMAISHI, IWATE

Ultra-thin noodles and amber broth: the story of a people who overcame disaster and their favorite bowl of ramen.

Kamaishi Ramen
The original Kamaishi Ramen
Kamaishi Ramen's amber broth
Ultra-thin noodles

Transcript

00:02

Ramen Japan! This time in Kamaishi, Iwate Prefecture.

00:07

This is the story of the ramen that's stayed with the city through good times and bad.

00:14

I didn't know what to do... But I had to do something!

00:18

And in the end, it was ramen.

00:34

Kamaishi, Iwate has a population of around 30,000.

00:41

Nearby some of the world's most productive fishing grounds, this port town has a thriving fishing industry.

00:49

The city spreads out from the fishing port,

00:51

and it's where you'll find the ramen loved by people of all ages here in Kaimaishi!

01:12

The local ramen association has 33 member shops.

01:19

The association's vice president, Konno Tokio, explains what makes Kamaishi ramen so special.

01:32

First, there's the clear soy sauce-based soup.

01:36

At our shop it's pork bones, dried sardines, and vegetables.

01:40

Unlike Kyushu "tonkotsu" ramen, it's kept just below boiling, about 90℃.

01:48

This makes for a clear amber broth.

01:54

The noodles are also special. Extremely thin.

02:01

About 1 mm, quite fine.

02:03

Where I was born and raised, it's always been this way.

02:14

The soup's umami comes on slowly. Ramen is the best fast food.

02:25

It's light, but there's also a richness.

02:28

The first bite makes me instantly happy.

02:39

This Chinese restaurant is the birthplace of Kamaishi ramen.

02:44

It first opened in 1951.

02:49

Nothing beats these fine noodles.

02:51

Almost like thin Japanese "somen" noodles.

02:56

I can have as many bowls as I want.

02:58

Okay, want another one?

03:04

Saijo Nobuhito served up the first ever bowl of ramen in Kamaishi.

03:10

Now, his son, Masanobu, is the second-generation owner, and keeper of the flame.

03:18

Kamaishi ramen means ultra-fine noodles...

03:22

But when the shop first opened the noodles were much thicker.

03:26

Mom wanted "somen"-style thin noodles, so she asked dad to make finer ramen.

03:33

"Somen" noodles are made by stretching wheat flour dough into thin strands.

03:39

The national standard is under 1.3mm.

03:44

We made our own noodles, so he told her he could do it.

03:50

The characteristic ultra-fine ramen noodles came about from this simple request.

03:57

They measure just 1mm!

04:04

Cooking time is only 25 seconds.

04:10

With this, Kamaishi-style ramen was complete.

04:22

When the original owner, Nobuhito, was just 27,

04:26

the family moved to Kamaishi from a neighboring prefecture after hearing of its economic boom.

04:32

His son, Masanobu, still vividly remembers the first time he set eyes on his new home.

04:41

It was a real surprise.

04:42

Leaving the station, there were all these huge chimneys.

04:48

Looking up at them made me dizzy.

04:52

Kamaishi had long been a flourishing center for steel production, and the mills towered over it.

05:00

In the 1950s, the postwar reconstruction led to a period of significant economic growth.

05:11

And the steelworks in Kamaishi helped support it.

05:18

Rails for the Shinkansen bullet train and other construction materials were produced non-stop, 24 hours a day.

05:25

And the city's population grew to over 90,000.

05:36

The owner of this dining bar, Kikuchi Yuko, remembers the vibrant pace of life in those days.

05:44

It was a very lively place. The streets were too crowded to walk.

05:49

Ramen, still a rarity at the time, was something the workers who came from all over the country enjoyed.

05:58

Everyone said it back then.

06:00

"Kamaishi is the only place to get ramen," and It was true.

06:04

There was no ramen in the countryside, but you could get it here.

06:10

Ramen shop owner Konno Tokio used to work in the steel mills himself.

06:15

His father was also a steelworker.

06:19

When I was little we lived in company housing, and we'd have ramen delivered.

06:24

It was always a feast!

06:27

Gradually the number of shops serving ramen in Kamaishi grew.

06:35

When Konno was 29, he started selling ramen from a converted van.

06:42

The shop was open from 10 pm to 3 am. It became very popular.

06:50

But Kamaishi's economic boom didn't last long.

06:55

The steel industry was in decline by the mid-1970s, and blast furnaces were dismantled to scale down production.

07:16

The number of workers, which had been over 10,000 at its peak, gradually diminished.

07:25

The population dropped from nearly 100,000 to just 30,000.

07:31

For the ramen shops of Kamaishi, it was a major challenge.

07:39

Kamaishi's Chamber of Commerce and Industry is near the fishing port.

07:46

The ramen association searched for a way to help revitalize the declining city.

07:53

This is a ramen map they created at the time.

07:56

It lists all 43 of the local ramen shops.

08:01

With the map complete, the shop owners gathered to prepare a press release.

08:12

It was the evening of March 10th, 2011.

08:18

We discussed how to get the word out about our ramen. It was very positive.

08:29

We said, "We can do it! Let's do our best!" And then the next day, the Tsunami hit.

08:41

Saijo's shop was around 600m from the coast.

08:45

As the tsunami encroached, they evacuated to the roof.

08:52

The wave rushed in...

08:57

Cars stopped at traffic lights were washed away.

09:04

Even steel was carried away. It made an awful sound.

09:13

The tsunami in Kamaishi reached nearly 20m high.

09:24

The ground floor of Saijo's shop was completely flooded.

09:29

The refrigerator was torn off the wall. I had no idea what to do...

09:37

This clock hung on the kitchen wall at the time.

09:41

It stopped at just after 3:20pm. Probably right when the wave hit.

09:52

The tsunami hit everything here.

09:56

Of the 43 shops on the map, 25 were destroyed by the wave.

10:04

The worst of it occurred in the Unosumai area.

10:08

Half of the Kamaishi residents who lost their lives had homes here.

10:14

Dobashi Kazushi of the Chamber of Commerce and Industry was born and raised in Unosumai.

10:21

All the shops in Unosumai were washed away.

10:27

And two of the owners lost their lives.

10:30

This one was very popular, with dried sardine dashi.

10:35

Unosumai is where I'm from. I can still see their faces.

10:45

The missing and dead from Kamaishi totaled almost 1,000 souls.

10:54

Not long after the disaster, Saijo found something in the wreckage of his shopfront.

11:03

I saw the shop curtain in the debris. I was sure it had been washed away.

11:12

At that moment, the image of his father, the creator of Kamaishi ramen, came into his mind.

11:22

Dad was quiet, but he was scary when he got angry. That's the way he was.

11:26

It felt like a message from my father.

11:33

So, I knew we had to get to work.

11:47

More than six months after the disaster in November of 2011,

11:52

headed by Saijo, the Kamaishi Ramen Association was rebuilt with 23 member shops.

12:02

He also set out to rebuild his own shop, which had been damaged in the disaster.

12:09

At that point all we could do was wait, but we also had the joy of working.

12:29

Okay, this is the start of a new day!

12:33

Let's greet everyone with a smile.

12:40

9 months after the disaster, Saijo's shop reopened.

12:46

We became a community.

12:49

Customers found fellow survivors when they came in to eat.

12:54

I'm glad we decided to rebuild.

12:57

Present-day Kamaishi, Unosumai.

13:02

At the invitation of his friend, Konno's shop, which was also hit by the disaster, relocated here three years ago.

13:12

There wasn't a single shop here. That's why he asked me to come.

13:18

Ramen lovers from the area all came.

13:24

When it first opened, I remember how nostalgic it felt to eat here.

13:30

This man was born and raised in Unosumai.

13:34

Mom loved ramen. She'd always go someplace to get it after work.

13:41

His mother, one of the victims of the tsunami, was never found.

13:53

Just ask anybody from Kamaishi what food they love most.

13:58

They'll always say ramen.

14:00

Ramen really is the heart of Kamaishi.

14:05

People here always work hard.

14:17

Thirteen years have passed since the disaster.

14:20

The latest ramen map has been completed.

14:23

On it, all the current local ramen shops, now 33 members strong.

14:44

Kamaishi means ramen. It's my reason for living.

14:48

Wouldn't you like to try some yourself?

14:51

Come pay a visit for the best bowl of ramen you've ever had.