This year saw the end of Sominsai, a unique festival in which loinclothed men plunge into freezing water, are enveloped in smoke, and jostle through the night to grasp a lucky sack as a form of prayer.

Water purification
The Somin Sack
Battle for the Somin Sack
Chief priest at Kokusekiji Temple

Transcript

00:02

Iwate Prefecture, in Japan's northeast.

00:08

The region is known for its freezing winters.

00:11

But February is the month for a festival said to date back over a thousand years.

00:25

The festival begins with near naked men entering a freezing river to purify body and soul.

00:35

This is followed by another purification ritual, this time by fire.

00:43

Pushing themselves to the limit, they pray to the Buddha for a bountiful harvest and good health.

00:58

The climax of the festival is a battle to win a hemp bag called the Somin Sack

01:04

that will bring good luck for the coming year.

01:08

Clad only in loincloths, the men give their all to try and grasp the lucky sack.

01:20

But in December 2023, it was announced that the next festival would be the last.

01:31

The news was met with mixed feelings.

01:38

Honestly, I want it to go on.

01:42

I look forward to seeing the same faces every year.

01:47

It's a constant in our lives.

01:53

The Sominsai shows us the way toward purity and enlightenment.

02:00

So, it's frustrating.

02:03

Why does the festival have to end?

02:09

Fixating on the conventions makes us forget.

02:16

It's a good idea to stop and reflect on what the festival is about.

02:26

We explore the meaning behind the purification rituals,

02:30

as the curtain falls on this 1,000-year-old festival.

02:39

To the Kokusekiji Sominsai!

03:04

The festival takes place at Kokusekiji, an ancient temple in the Kuroishi District of Oshu.

03:24

It's the end, so let's give it our best.

03:30

But be careful. Okay then, let's begin.

03:46

I'm helping build a shelter.

03:50

Here we'll change, rest, and warm up.

03:54

The preparation is part of the Sominsai.

03:57

It's sad to think we won't be able to work together like this.

04:06

About 60 people, mostly locals, belong to the Youth Division of the Kokusekiji Sominsai Preservation Association.

04:14

Many of them have taken part in the battle for the Somin Sack.

04:19

They're also in charge of festival preparations.

04:23

They build shelters for the participants to rest, along with a makeshift cafeteria.

04:30

The group plays an integral role in the Sominsai.

04:35

The festival was suspended during the pandemic,

04:38

so this is the first time in four years that it's being held at a large scale.

04:53

It's one of the five toughest things I've ever done.

04:58

I was an amateur boxer until I was forty.

05:04

The Sominsai gives me a similar sense of accomplishment.

05:11

I have no idea.

05:14

That's probably why it's continued for 1,200 years.

05:21

Why does the festival demand so much from its participants?

05:28

This is the main hall of Kokusekiji.

05:33

It's dedicated to the Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of Healing.

05:38

Sominsai is dedicated to the Buddha.

05:44

The Yakushi Nyorai has long been revered in this region as the Buddha of healing and medicine.

05:52

By taking on extreme challenges and pushing themselves to the limit,

05:57

the participants purify body and soul to pray to the Yakushi Nyorai.

06:02

It's this desire that drives the 1,000-year-old festival.

06:08

There's meaning in holding it in the coldest season.

06:17

We bare body and soul to carry out the purification rituals.

06:26

Hey, Boss. Time for lunch.

06:33

Let's break for lunch.

06:36

You have to experience it to appreciate it.

06:45

It's really tough.

06:57

Five years ago, I took part in the Sominsai.

07:02

It was a life-changing experience.

07:11

As I donned the loincloth, I braced myself for what was to come.

07:18

Let's give it our all!

07:24

The purification rituals began with sake.

07:29

Jasso! Jasso! Jasso! Jasso!

07:47

With naked prayer, the all-night festival got rolling.

07:51

This year, there were 200 participants from around Japan, though most were locals.

08:01

It was minus 8 degrees Celsius.

08:04

We shouted to maintain our courage.

08:28

Huddle up closer. It's warmer that way.

08:44

I was not me.

08:49

I was somewhere else.

08:54

Alone, we humans are weak creatures.

08:57

It's when we get together that we are capable of extraordinary things.

09:28

I needed to do the screaming but the smoke I can't breathe.

09:35

That was near death experience.

10:00

The Somin Sack was brought out in the dead of night.

10:06

The battle was on to grasp it and receive the blessings of the Yakushi Nyorai.

10:28

Inside the Somin Sack are wooden charms called komagi,

10:33

which are distributed to those who have gathered at the festival to share the blessings of the Buddha.

10:49

The struggle for the sack went on for over an hour.

10:54

By the time it was over, we were all on the verge of collapse.

11:11

Whoever isn't touching the sack, get out!

11:16

The man left holding onto the Somin Sack until the very end is declared the Torinushi, the winner.

11:24

Their family will receive an even greater blessing and enjoy a bountiful harvest and good health.

11:31

Well done.

11:34

Thank you.

11:36

You had it for a moment, didn't you?

11:38

I was actually holding onto it the whole time. I just let go at the end there.

11:44

It's kind of a metaphor for life.

11:50

I remembered before I was born.

11:54

I felt like a sperm.

11:59

I feel like this is what it means to fight for your life.

12:03

This life, the fact that we're here, it's a total miracle.

12:11

No matter what happens, good, bad, whatever...

12:21

Standing bare shoulder to bare shoulder through disaster, our common prayer was shared.

12:27

It felt like the true essence of the Sominsai.

12:33

Good luck to you. All the best.

12:56

Five years after I took part, the chief priest of Kokusekiji decided it was time to end the Sominsai.

13:05

The Sominsai relies on the community effort, especially the parishioners.

13:14

But the population is aging, making preparations difficult.

13:23

That's why I decided that this year's Sominsai would be the last.

13:34

Besides providing financial backing, the parishioners support the everyday workings of the temple,

13:40

helping to organize events and ceremonies.

13:46

Kokusekiji relies on the support of just a dozen or so parishioner families.

13:54

Japan's aging population crisis has affected the temple's district of Kuroishi.

14:03

Of 968 residents, nearly half are 65 or older.

14:13

The families prepare the mochi, the sacred straw ropes, the Somin Sack, etc.

14:20

The roles played by each family have been handed down through the ages.

14:29

The preparations are part of the ritual.

14:37

From making tools to performing ceremonies and rituals -

14:40

the roles played by each parishioner family have been handed down through generations.

14:51

The Otategi is a wooden structure that serves as a guidepost for the Buddha and the deities arriving for the festival.

14:59

The parishioners are responsible for constructing it.

15:04

The person who inherited the technique for tying the ropes has passed away.

15:08

So for over a decade, the same ropes have had to be reused.

15:16

These preparations hold deep religious significance,

15:19

but it has become increasingly difficult to carry them out.

15:32

The chief priest felt it was time to reflect on the origins of the festival.

15:40

That's why he decided to stop it.

15:44

Hatanaka Akihiro researches Japanese festivals.

15:48

He understands why this difficult decision was made.

15:54

These charms are placed inside the Somin Sack.

15:59

The parishioners are responsible for making them.

16:04

They're essential to the festival.

16:13

Since ancient times, Japan has experienced more than its share of natural disasters.

16:19

To survive and thrive, people offered prayers to the deities and the Buddha in the form of festivals

16:25

to seek protection from disasters and disease and enjoy a bountiful harvest.

16:34

The Kuroishi district has been hit hard by natural disasters such as flooding, heavy snow, and crop-damaging cold.

16:45

People tried to overcome these hardships through cooperation and prayer.

16:52

I believe the Chief Priest is taking a proactive approach.

16:57

He is hoping to keep the spiritual significance of the festival alive.

17:17

We need to think about why the festival has been held for so long.

17:25

What matters most is the belief in the Buddha of Healing.

18:02

Ishikawa Mitsuo, a member of the Preservation Association's Youth Division,

18:07

helped me through the Sominsai five years ago.

18:11

My grandson.

18:16

Ishikawa isn't a parishioner, but for generations,

18:19

his family has taken part in both the battle for the Somin Sack and festival preparations.

18:26

If you live in Kuroishi, it's unavoidable.

18:33

Sure as night follows day!

18:38

Building the bonfire is a part of the festival.

18:41

I watched my father doing it, so I started doing it, too.

18:52

I'm following in his footsteps.

18:55

Light it up!

18:59

The construction of the sacred bonfire has long been the responsibility of the Youth Division,

19:05

with Mitsuo's father, Tadamitsu, playing a central role.

19:14

This year, there will be no climbing of the bonfire.

19:17

Instead, they're building a smaller wooden scaffold.

19:23

I'm scared.

19:26

You can do it. Stand up!

19:33

I hope he'll inherit my passion and take on challenges.

19:42

And that he'll carry on the tradition even in a different form.

19:55

Good evening.

20:00

Come on in.

20:06

This is the Somin Sack.

20:10

The komagi wooden charms are taken out and distributed.

20:14

This happens during the scramble for the sack.

20:18

The last man holding the mouth of the sack is proclaimed the winner.

20:23

I won the year he was born.

20:29

I'm proud he was able to do what I failed to achieve.

20:36

That goes for everything, not just the festival.

20:40

You'll make me cry!

20:44

The symbol of the Sominsai, the Somin Sack, comes from the legend of Somin Shorai

20:49

from Japan's Nara Period over 1,000 years ago.

20:56

Somin Shorai was a kind and generous man who helped others despite his own poverty.

21:02

The deities and the Buddha recognized his piety and promised lasting prosperity for his family and descendants.

21:11

I thought the festival would go on forever.

21:15

We suggested conducting it on a smaller scale.

21:20

But the Chief Priest said he had no choice but to end it.

21:26

I'm sad. It's frustrating.

21:32

The festival has been held for ages.

21:36

It's a family tradition.

21:42

I'm sad, but it can't be helped.

21:46

You like the festival?

21:50

Yes.

21:52

Why?

21:54

It's fun.

21:56

Just fun.

21:59

We love the festival.

22:09

The short stakes go here, under the sheet.

22:16

Youth Division member Sasaki Mitsuhito has supported the Sominsai for 20 years.

22:23

This is where the food will be prepared.

22:27

I won't strip down.

22:30

I'll stick to organizing the water and fire purification rituals.

22:36

He says he will focus on playing a backstage role in the final Sominsai.

22:59

This scarf was woven by an artist who wove the Somin Sacks until 2011.

23:09

Ogawa Kumiko passed in the Great East Japan Earthquake.

23:16

They wanted me to have this to remember her by.

23:26

Ogawa Kumiko was a dye and weaving artist.

23:29

She remains unaccounted for since the earthquake.

23:35

Ogawa was commissioned by Kokusekiji to weave the hemp fabric used to make the Somin Sack.

23:43

I'll take this with me to the Sominsai.

23:49

She'll be with me in spirit.

23:55

I'm actually trying to make a Somin Sack myself.

24:02

During the festival, the sack is cut up.

24:10

The charms will be distributed. Nothing will remain.

24:17

I want to leave something tangible for the next generation.

24:24

I want to pass it on.

24:45

Eight days before the festival, Ishikawa begins a purification ritual

24:50

in which he abstains from eating meat, fish, eggs, and other animal protein,

24:56

along with strongly scented foods like chives and garlic.

25:04

His entire family joins him.

25:17

This is yummy.

25:18

We avoid eating certain foods to cleanse our bodies.

25:24

It also reflects our commitment to becoming a better person.

25:30

Five years ago, I felt a transformation in both mind and body after changing what I ate.

25:37

My mind was clear and my body felt light.

25:48

The Sominsai started out as a way to help those who were suffering.

25:55

It offered salvation when there was no medicine.

26:01

Embracing good eating habits and cleanliness helped prevent illness.

26:07

It was a form of salvation.

26:26

Good morning.

27:10

All this work for just one night and then to dismantle it.

27:17

Such a shame.

27:34

It's so exciting to see it all come together after 4 years.

28:49

Taste the shiitake!

28:53

The food served here is strictly vegetarian so that everyone can enjoy it.

28:58

Shiitake mushrooms make for a flavorful broth to have with buckwheat noodles, konnyaku, and more.

29:07

The late Ogawa shares my excitement at opening the hall.

29:14

I wish we could continue it.

29:18

I still can't believe this is the end.

29:23

My personal shrine.

29:28

I'm making konnyaku sticks.

29:32

I'll be with my dad.

29:35

Are you bathing in the river?

29:38

No!

29:40

Try it.

29:41

No way!

29:44

Welcome.

29:47

Ramen please.

29:49

Coming up. With pork?

29:54

Haha, good one!

29:56

It's great to see familiar faces for the first time in 3 years.

30:05

The Sominsai was in danger of ending after the war.

30:12

That's why my father's generation set up the Youth Division.

30:17

They were in their 20s.

30:19

They wanted to preserve and keep the festival alive.

30:24

We all feel that way.

30:27

The excitement will build up as it gets dark.

31:01

On the day of the festival,

31:03

visitors to the temple are served plain water drawn from the mountain and kept at a boil.

31:08

Those who drink this "medicinal water" will be blessed by the Yakushi Nyorai.

31:26

It's supposed to be scalding hot, but I don't feel it.

31:31

Strange, isn't it?

31:36

I'm going to drink it at home.

32:02

As many as 7,000 people gather for the final Sominsai - far more than usual.

32:11

Security is tightened to deal with the large crowd.

32:20

Participants write their wishes and prayers on square lanterns, which they carry during the festival.

32:39

I wanted to witness the end of its long history.

32:45

I knew this would be my last chance to take part.

32:53

Drink up!

32:59

Who wants more?

33:05

Let's go!

33:26

To the Kokusekiji Sominsai!

33:35

Let's go!

33:55

At the head of the procession is Kikuchi Toshiaki, the fifth director of the Youth Division.

34:04

The character "Kizuna," meaning bond or connection,

34:08

is a prayer for those who died in the Great East Japan Earthquake.

34:24

The naked prayers commence with the water purification ritual.

36:08

As they purify themselves in the river,

36:11

the participants walk around the hall three times, offering prayers for an hour and a half.

36:24

He stripped down and tagged along.

36:29

Were you scared? Cold?

36:30

I was scared.

36:33

He'll gradually learn the traditions.

36:36

Hopefully, his generation will be able to revive the Sominsai.

36:40

I'm going to go all out and win the Somin Sack.

36:45

You can do it, Dad!

36:47

You bet!

36:52

The cafeteria is bustling with activity.

37:07

It's a chance to meet up with people once a year.

37:13

It's a constant in our lives.

37:15

I prepare for the Sominsai while praying for everyone's safety.

37:25

I like being the organizer.

38:47

The Chief Priest burns sacred wood before the altar to infuse the Somin Sack with the blessings of the Yakushi Nyorai.

39:16

Mochi is tossed towards the loinclothed men to call for a year of good luck.

39:40

Hang in there!

39:42

Now for the climax of the festival.

39:53

The Somin Sack is tossed into the crowd of naked men.

39:58

The battle begins.

40:07

There are 270 participants, double the number of previous festivals.

40:13

It's a battle to win the most luck of all.

40:21

No pushing!

40:38

Ishikawa is close to the sack.

40:41

Hanging in next to him is Kikuchi, the Director of the Youth Division.

40:55

The Somin Sack makes its way outside the main hall.

41:22

The festival is drawing to a close.

41:25

The final Torinushi is about to be announced.

41:43

It's Kikuchi, the Director of the Youth Division.

41:51

The Director of the Youth Division!

42:13

I'm happy that one of us won the sack.

42:17

We all feel as if we've won it with him.

42:26

Make way.

42:30

Thanks.

42:37

Winner Kikuchi receives his prize:

42:42

60 kilograms of locally grown rice.

42:48

Congratulations!

42:53

We're all working together to pass it on to the next generation.

43:00

Hopefully, we can revive it by the time I'm a grandfather.

43:19

A 1,000-year-old festival has come to an end.

43:49

It looks like summer, doesn't it? It's really warm.

44:02

Look! I found a crab.

44:08

In the river.

44:13

The men who fought the battle of their lives are embracing the unexpected spring-like weather.

44:20

The future of the Sominsai is now in the hands of the next generation.

44:32

It's over.

45:36

I felt the spirit of Ogawa with me. I think she was happy that it ended safely.

45:42

My desire to keep the Sominsai alive is stronger than ever.

45:52

I asked her to help me pass it on.

46:20

I hadn't expected such a huge response.

46:28

Many people have expressed their desire to continue the festival.

46:35

I want to discuss with them what they want to preserve and how.

46:43

We need to focus on what really counts.

46:59

First meat.

47:06

It's been a week.

47:08

I feel emotional.

47:10

You're crying again.

47:16

You haven't stopped.

47:19

Poor thing.

47:23

The Youth Division will continue, even after the Sominsai.

47:30

I'll be passing on the reins to Ishikawa Mitsuo. He'll make a great director.

47:37

I know you'll give him your full support.

47:42

Let's keep the Sominsai going.

47:54

Good job!

48:01

You did well.

48:08

Let's keep it up.

48:29

Maybe the festival will take a new shape.

48:32

But the bond between the people and the heart behind the prayer will never die.

48:38

I look forward to the next stage of this tradition.