Wow.

Oh my gosh.

Japan, a place where 70% of the land is mountainous.

Hiking is a very popular activity here.

In winter, the mountains in Japan are majestic due to lots of snow.

Japan has some of the world's heaviest snowfalls and is all so beautiful...

But a change in weather can bring about blizzards.

This is when winter mountains can become dangerous.

If you choose the right place, even beginners can enjoy winter mountains safely!

This is like a movie, or a fairytale.

A miraculous contrast. Blue sky and white snow.

Blooming flowers of ice.

A beautiful world, created by the snow.

Equipment, Information, and Help from an expert

is what you'll need to experience the wonderful world of snow hiking.

- Look at the sunrise!
- Oh my gosh!

It's so beautiful.

In the mountains, you'll discover a wonderful part of "Japan" you've never known.

Let's Trek Japan.

Today, we'll be hiking the Kita-Yatsugatake mountains,

a mountain range in Nagano prefecture consisting of mountains over 2,000 meters high.

The mountains have gentle slopes and the risk of avalanches is low,

so it's known to be a good mountain for beginners.

To get to the trailhead, you can ride a limited express train from Shinjuku to Chino station and hop on a bus.

From Tokyo Shinjuku, it'll take about 3 hours to arrive at today's departure point,

Kita-Yatsugatake Ropeway Sanroku station.

Hi, I'm Hannah.

I've been living in Japan for a number of years now, and I love hiking in the mountains.

Hannah is a content creator from Australia.

She likes to hike all over Japan.

Her pictures and videos about the wonders of nature in Japan are very popular online.

I don't go hiking in the winter too often because you need a lot of equipment.

I did that once before and it wasn't very fun, but this time,

we're going with a guide, so I'm really looking forward to knowing what it's like in the mountains in winter.

So, it's a beautiful day today, and I'm ready to go.

Let's check it out!

One round trip ticket, please.

Thank you!

Ok, this is my ticket to the top.

Hannah will ride the ropeway to Sancho Station at an elevation of 2,237 meters.

The Kita-Yatsugatake Ropeway is open year-round,

allowing you to gain access to the high mountains any time of year.

The trees are so beautiful down here.

Definitely getting high.

My ears keep popping on the way up.

The view is getting more and more beautiful. So excited.

Wow, it's so beautiful.

There's like a light dusting of snow that's falling down- it's sparkly and pretty.

Ah, so pretty.

- Hi, nice to meet you.
- Nice to meet you.

- My name is Hannah.
- I'm Pauline. Welcome to Kita-Yatsugatake.

Pauline Kitamura is a hiking guide and also a host for this program.

She will lead Hannah through the hike.

Winter hikes should always be done with experienced hikers or a guide.

Pauline who is an experienced hiking guide will show Hannah how to enjoy snowshoeing in the winter mountains.

So these here are snowshoes.

Have you ever tried these on before?

No, I've never used them before.

By attaching snowshoes to your hiking boots, you can walk comfortably without sinking into the snow.

At Kita-Yatsugatake, you can rent snowshoes at the ropeway stations or mountain huts.

And just hold the lever... great!

And that's it. How is it?

Stuck to your feet?

- You're all set.
- Wow, feels so unusual.

And with a set of trekking poles, you're all set to go.

This is the Kita-Yatsugatake woodpecker.

- A woodpecker.
- Before we leave, we should knock 3 times.

We're ready to go!

- Let's go!
- Yay!

That's so cute.

Everyone does this.

The winter hiking season at Kita-Yatsugatake is roughly from January to March.

So, let's start our fun snowshoe hike!

Today's route will depart from Sancho Station and head towards a mountain hut at an elevation of 2,300 meters.

The trip is 2-nights and 3-days round trip.

On the first day, we will go through an easy trail through the forest and head towards a mountain hut lit with beautiful lanterns.

The route is about 11 kilometers.

On the second day, Pauline and Hannah will help out around the mountain hut and spend a leisurely day.

On the last day, they will head out to the top of Mt. Chausu,

enjoying the magnificent view, and then return to the starting point.

We'll show you how to enjoy hiking in the snow.

- The snow is so soft.
- I know.

It's the perfect day for snowshoeing.

It's deeper snow than I thought it would be, honestly.

- It's very helpful to have the snowshoes on.
- Yeah.

Freshly fallen snow is very soft.

It's quite hard to walk on soft snow without snowshoes.

Let's enjoy this beautiful view as we walk through the forest.

Wow.

- There's so much snow here.
- Oh my gosh.

Snow all on the branches.

It needs like a strong breeze.

Then all of these will fall off.

Snow dust. It's beautiful.

Yes. It's so nice.

- It's really really pretty in here. It's beautiful.
- It is.

I love walking through this forest section.

And the trees shield from the wind as well, so it's not as windy.

Hikers find it easier to walk in the forest because the trees shield them from the wind even in a blizzard.

We recommend beginners to stay below the tree line.

The sun feels so good.

It feels amazing.

- Look at that view.
- I know.

Oh, the mountains over there.

Amazing.

This snow as well. It looks so soft.

- I know. I want to run in over there.
- I want to jump into it.

- Okay, we're gonna step.
- Ready, set, go!

Wow, I'm so deep.

Let's keep going.

Let's go!

Maybe not.

- Maybe not as secure in the front.
- I'm stuck.

Stepping into fresh snow is invigorating.

But straying too far from the trail can be dangerous.

Check with a guide and proceed carefully.

Yeah! We did it!

Okay ready? Fall down.

Ready?

Wow!

Oh, that feels so good.

That's how to do it!

But remember, you need proper equipment to really enjoy the mountains safely.

The mountains here are over 2,000 meters high.

In the harsh winter months, temperatures drop from -5 to -20 degrees Celsius.

Bad weather could turn into a strong blizzard.

Although this mountain range is recommended for beginners,

you should never take the mountains lightly.

When winter hiking in Japan, be sure to layer your clothing to stay warm.

Wear a wind-proof jacket over a fleece jacket.

Your base should be made of warm material.

Choose one for hiking that helps ventilate moisture.

Down jackets can be warm but they don't let moisture escape, so don't wear them while hiking!

Essential items like hats and neck warmers will help prevent frostbite on your nose and ears.

And don't forget your sunglasses, as reflections from the snow can damage your eyes.

Pauline and Hannah have walked an hour and a half from Sancho Station.

They can look forward to even more magnificent views when they come out of the forest.

- We're out of the trees now.
- Yeah.

Wow, it's such a beautiful view.

- Like with the daylight.
- Yeah, it's opened up like this.

The largest snow field on this route is Otogiridaira.

The sky is so blue.

There's not a cloud in the sky.

It's such a beautiful day.

- It couldn't get more perfect than this.
- It's perfect.

Yeah, it really is perfect today.

Yeah, picture perfect.

Bright.

- It's bright blue.
- So bright. It's so bright.

It's like such a deep, rich blue.

Hikers refer to this deep blue sky as "Yatsugatake Blue."

As the elevation gets higher, the deep blue sky spreads wide above.

Winter days in Yatsugatake are often sunny, making the air clearer, and enhancing its beauty.

Such a beautiful contrast, against like...

Kita-Yatsugatake blue.

- It's a new color, that word.
- Yes. It's a new color.

We're here!

This is Route 299. This is actually a road. A main road here.

So unusual.

This sign, without like, being in danger.

- We're standing in the middle of the road.
- We're in the middle of the road here.

- No cars!
- So unusual.

It opens up during the summer season.

Let's take a rest at a mountain hut before we go further.

Hyutte Mugikusa.

Hyutte Mugikusa.

- Hello. We would like to take a break here.
- Welcome.

Most mountain huts in Japan are available for lodging and they also have day-use for resting and eating.

Let's grab a bite here! This hut offers homemade sweets.

Mmm. Wow.

The pumpkin flavor is actually really strong.

That's so good.

Oh my god. This is very orangey.

That's so good.

Oh my gosh.

About 10 mountain huts are operating even in the middle of winter in Kita-Yatsugatake,

so you can feel safe even in bad weather.

Beginners are recommended to start with a mountain like this one.

From here, we proceed along this road closed to traffic.

Easy to walk on.

Easy to walk on. That's right.

It's very nice.

Nice and flat.

It's kind of a different scene from inside the narrow trails in the mountains.

- Yeah, very diverse.
- It pops out.

A snow beach.

Kind of like back home for you.

Oh, look, Hannah.

Animal tracks.

- It's fun to look for animal tracks in the snow.
- It's so cute.

What do you think this is?

I would guess a rabbit.

Because it's got the two feet together.

You can see it through the forest.

- It's fun to see all the animal tracks during the winter.
- It is.

You can spot many animal tracks in the snow in the mountains of Japan.

But it's rare to actually spot the owner...

Pauline and Hannah will leave the public road and head into the forest.

They'll climb 100 m in elevation and head to another mountain hut.

We're at the intersection where we start to climb up to the mountain hut.

It's about half an hour.

You might want to take an inner layer off, because layered with all the clothing you'll get hot.

When you sweat on a winter mountain, your body temperature will drop and you could get hypothermia.

Remember to dress lightly before a steeper climb.

- Okay.
- Ready.

We're good.

Ready to climb?

- I think so.
- Half an hour.

We'll just go step by step, slowly.

3 hours have passed since they left the trailhead.

Just a little more to go until they arrive at the mountain hut.

How's it going, Hannah?

Yeah, it's going good.

Not too bad.

Can you see the mountain hut over there, the roof?

Oh, it's right here.

- Amazing.
- Yeah we're really close.

- Wasn't so bad after all.
- Not too bad, right?

Ah, it's so pretty.

Oh my gosh, it's so beautiful. The sun.

Oh my goodness.

Wow! Beautiful!

Yeah! We're here! We made it!

That was a great hike.

That was. It's a beautiful day.

Today's goal is Takamiishi Hut at an elevation of 2,300 meters.

Nice and warm.

This is the mountain hut.

- This is so beautiful.
- Isn't it nice, with the lanterns up there and a wood burning stove?

It's so rustic like you were saying.

This wooden-frame hut was built about 70 years ago.

A hot wood-burning stove welcomes you as you walk in.

The hut is famous for the warm light of its lanterns.

The rustic feel is popular among hikers.

Taking shoes off inside the hut is a basic manner in Japan.

Hello.

Mr. Kimura Taku is the 4th generation hutkeeper who's been running the hut for 4 years.

Please register your name here.

Huts in Japan recommend hikers to check in by 3 pm.

The sun sets earlier in the winter, and the risk of getting lost and being stranded will increase after.

Try to be on time.

Your room will be on the second floor.

Up the stairs.

- Wow, this is so beautiful.
- Isn't it nice? It's cozy.

It's really cozy.

It's like warm...the beds look great.

Please use these two beds.

This is your futon bedding and that is a "kotatsu" heated table.

I can't believe there's a kotatsu in a mountain hut.

A "kotatsu" is a traditional Japanese appliance, normally powered by electricity.

But, this kotatsu's heating source is charcoal, heated on a stove, then put into the kotatsu.

The blanket covers the table with its heating source on the underside of the table,

and you can place your legs inside.

It's nice and warm.

Feels so good, doesn't it?

I'll just take a nap right here.

"Kotatsu" is one of Japan's best things.

I agree. You can't go without a "kotatsu" in the winter in Japan.

Isn't it rare to find a "kotatsu" in a mountain hut?

It's our specialty to have our guests sleep in one big room and gather around the "kotatsu."

According to Mr. Kimura, the retro feel of a kotatsu is even more precious because many modern homes in Japan now use heating systems.

I want my guests to have a unique experience.

Most mountain huts nowadays are modernized. I find it rather boring.

The Takamiishi Hut runs mostly without electricity.

Its only heating source is a wood and fuel burning stove.

Cell phone service is not available.

Though it may seem a little inconvenient, Mr. Kimura wants his guests to enjoy being in the present while there.

He continues to protect the hut that he inherited from the previous generation.

Guests who choose to stay here must be used to a convenient way of city life,

but I don't believe they come here to spend another ordinary day.

I want my guests to experience a mountain hut that feels like old times.

Feeling fulfilled while spending time inconveniently might be difficult to achieve,

but I'm fortunate to have many of our guests enjoy this.

At 6 pm, it's time for dinner.

Mountain huts usually have a set dinner time, so be sure to check in advance.

This looks so nice.

- How fancy is this?
- Very nice.

Oh my goodness.

Dinner at Takamiishi Hut is western cuisine,

including a salad made with fresh local vegetables and grilled meat.

Enjoy the meal made with tender love and care.

"Itadakimasu."

That's really good.

The flavor from the mushroom is really strong.

- How is it?
- Really good.

It's so nice to have a hot meal after a winter hike.

Like a decent meal. It's not just like fried rice.

Or like, curry.

Lights usually go out by 9 pm in a Japanese mountain hut.

But before that, this hut has a signature event.

Shall we go outside?

Dress warmly.

Mr. Kimura brings out his telescope.

A stargazing night hosted by a star-loving hut-innkeeper begins.

Wow, it's so bright.

I didn't even notice when I first stepped out.

You can see all of the craters on the moon. That is so weird.

Do you see the alphabet M in the sky above the roof? What is that?

Constellation M.

Cassiopeia.

You can also see Leo, which is known as a spring constellation that sparkles in the southern skies.

The Pleiades star cluster is called Subaru in Japanese.

You can also see the Big Dipper. It is bright and clear.

I really loved the stars when I used to live in the city,

but I couldn't really see much.

So I wondered where I could see the stars bright and clear,

and that's how I began climbing mountains.

It's hard to forget such a beautiful starry sky,

and that's how I ended up living here.

It's like the perfect combination of everything.

The thin winter air, the high elevation air.

It's a beautiful day.

Now we get to enjoy all of this because we have all of that.

It's our second day on the snow mountain.

Pauline and Hannah will enjoy their day here and spend one more night at the mountain hut.

They were allowed to help collect water for the hut.

It is one of the housekeeping tasks.

They load up water tanks onto a cart, and off they go.

They climb down for 40 minutes.

Where is their source of water?

We've come to the Shirakoma pond, the lake.

A lake above the clouds, Lake Shirakoma at an elevation of 2,115 meters.

Between December and March, the entire lake freezes over, and you can walk over it.

It's deep. It's very deep.

In winter, daily water used at the mountain hut is collected at the lake.

First, they need to make a hole on the surface.

Wow!

Do you see there? It's right there.

Oh my gosh, this is scary.

Look how thick the ice is under there.

It's so amazing. It's so thick.

- So because they keep using this space, it doesn't get as thick?
- Yeah.

The mountain hut staff puts safety first when collecting water.

Tampering with the lake is prohibited.

You're not allowed to make holes in the lake without permission.

I almost fell.

I'm getting 18 liters.

18 kilograms.

Wow, that's a lot.

The staff will collect 19 tanks of water, a total of 342 liters to bring back to the hut.

I'll take that challenge.

Don't fall in Hannah!

Water went in your gloves!

My gloves! My hands are cold!

Okay.

Once they have all the water they need, they bring the heavy tanks back with a sled.

It's so hard on the snow.

- My legs are burning.
- Ahh!

I can't with these snow shoes.

Last pull!

It was so hot.

I'm really really sweaty.

Wow, you're so strong!

And they do this every week!

Everyone is strong.

When you think about it, we're so used to just turning on the tap and you have water.

So then when you think of how they used to have to do it,

and how they have to collect water in winter especially, it makes you really appreciate it...

You're so small but you're so strong!

That's like 18 kilograms and she was carrying two of them.

A superwoman.

A super mountain woman.

Tough, but I think being able to work together and have fun while we're at is a great part of working.

Since olden times, Japanese have used words to describe the beauty of nature to accentuate their daily lives.

There are many words to describe snow.

Cotton hat snow.

Sky flowers.

Sleeping mountains.

After snowfall, the mountains quiet down as if asleep.

And, Snow glow.

These words reflect the sentiment of the Japanese people who've lived close to nature.

Once they return to the hut, they enjoy the hut's signature sweets.

Wow.

That looks delicious.

Thank you!

It's their famous donuts — made from deep fried bread.

It's so popular that some hikers visit the hut just to eat their donuts.

They come in 5 flavors - kinako, cocoa, matcha, cheese, and black sesame.

Alright, let's go.

Oh my gosh, that's so good.

It's kinako flavor, which is roasted soybean powder, which doesn't sound very good,

but when you put it on dessert, it has a kind of nutty, almost caramelly kind of flavor.

A little bit sweet, but not too much.

- It's so nice.
- It's really popular in Japan.

It's not just delicious on a mountain, it's delicious in general.

Even if it was in the city or somewhere, it would be amazing.

You can enjoy the experience in many more ways by staying at a mountain hut for multiple nights.

Reaching the peak is not the only goal for a hike.

Takamiishi Hut sells hand towels designed with beautiful snowscapes of Kita-Yatsugatake.

Trees covered in soft snow with a mountain hut sitting quietly in the center.

This is art expressing the beauty of winter in Kita-Yatsugatake.

It is designed by textile designer Sanada Midori.

Look. The tip of coniferous trees are shaped like a cross.

That's one characteristic of the tree, when it catches snow in the winter,

it looks more like a cross. It is so cute.

Midori worked as an apparel designer; she fell in love with snow-covered mountains, while hiking about 10 years ago.

She then began extensively drawing nature found in the mountains.

I've come to discover the different hues of the mountain.

Mornings will have their own color and evenings will have theirs.

I want to illustrate the charms of the mountain for each time of day and season.

Midori's love for the mountains overflows, finding its way into her designs of popular products

such as patches and hand towels, which are available at mountain huts.

The calm or refreshing feeling you get from being in the mountains.

It's nice to be reminded of those feelings by things you bring back from the mountains.

I hope my products can instill such feelings in my customers.

In the afternoon, the weather changes rapidly.

Pauline and Hannah decided to spend the day inside the mountain hut.

They spend the time reading books,

chatting, and sitting, and watching the fire.

Precious time spent away from smartphones ——and a busy world.

It's just nice and relaxing to sit here after hard days of walking in snow.

And just this whole experience makes it so worth coming up to this 2,300 meter mountain

and spending time up in this mountain hut in particular.

The blizzard continues through the night.

What view will the snowstorm bring?

It's 7 am, the next morning.

Pauline and Hannah climb the hill behind the hut to see the sunrise.

This is fantastic!

It's so beautiful!

It's so rare to see the sea of clouds like this.

And the mountains are just peeking through over there.

After the blizzard, nature has changed its color.

We can see a vivid landscape under the golden morning sun.

It's so pretty.

It's got like a light dusting. It's so pretty.

These look so different in winter, don't they?

Winter wonderland.

It's amazing.

I love the clouds.

Isn't it worth climbing all the way up here, to be able to see this?

Absolutely. The sunrise is always worth it.

The vastness of nature is even more magnificent.

Let's enjoy the snow-covered mountain as we make our descent.

Oh my gosh!

The forest has totally changed its look.

It is now dressed up in all white.

It doesn't feel real.

It's like a movie, or a fairytale.

Look at this tree.

It's completely frozen over with ice.

That's so cool.

That's funny.

Mmm.

Delicious.

Is it delicious?

Frosted ice is a work of winter art.

With so much snowfall, they can be found all over Japan.

For example, these are actually trees covered with frosted ice.

They are like monsters made of ice.

In Japan, people call them "ice monsters," they can be seen at Mt. Zao, among other places.

There are also frosted ice pieces, like these.

Over there, when you look at the tree, you can tell which way the wind is constantly blowing.

- Yeah.
- Because it's frozen into place.

Frosted ice forms when moisture in the air sticks and freezes to tree branches.

When strong wind constantly blows from one direction,

the ice grows towards the direction of the wind.

A formulative work of art, born in nature.

Try to look for one when you hike on a snow-covered mountain next time.

Before heading back to Sancho Station, Pauline and Hannah will head to the top of Mt. Chausu.

- It's good to take baby steps because it's gonna get pretty steep.
- Yeah.

This is quite a steep climb.

They take on an elevation gain of 200 meters step by step.

Hang in there.

Just a little more until they reach the top!

A gorgeous view awaits them.

It may be one of the best on this trip.

- So amazing!
- Oh my gosh.

I was not expecting this.

What a huge view.

This is phenomenal.

- I've never seen anything like this.
- I think this might be one of the best views.

Yeah, absolutely.

Feels like I'm on top of the world.

A gorgeous view with a sense of accomplishment after conquering the harsh snow-covered mountain.

This special experience is reserved for winter hikers!

After my last winter hike that I did, that wasn't very good, I thought,

"Ah, maybe I just give up on winter hiking, maybe I just will never do it again."

But I've really come to realize through the things that you've taught me,

and the things that I've learned from just being out here,

that it can be really really beautiful and really special.

There's not many people and you get to see a view that no one else gets to see...

and it's making me reconsider.

Maybe I will do another winter hike.

Oh good.

For sure.

- Thank you for teaching me so much.
- No problem.

I'm glad you came and I'm glad you enjoyed yourself.

I've gone to a lot of mountains, but this is one of the best views here,

and one of the nicest mountains to come to during winter.

- I appreciate it. Thank you.
- No problem. We'll have to do it again!

Let's do it again!

This time, our hike was a round trip to Takamiishi Hut, a distance of 22 kilometers.

Kita-Yatsugatake has many trailheads, so you can choose the one you want, depending on your goal.

Gathering information before your winter hike is essential.

Check with the mountain hut for the current conditions and study your route.

Be sure to have a mountain guide accompany you.

There are tours you can sign up for.

Please be sure that you don't hike alone.

It's required to submit a hiking itinerary.

The form should be filled out with information regarding your destination, fellow hikers, and emergency contacts.

This information will help authorities find you in case you get lost.

There is an equipment checklist that will help you make sure you have everything you need.

It's also in English.

You can also submit the form online.

Once ready, it's time to head out and experience the fantastic mountains of Japan!