A Craftsman's Roots

Honda Sueyasu has spent a lifetime thatching roofs and making sure a delicious taro thrives in his community. The eternally jovial 96-year-old is now passing on those passions to the next generation.

Sueyasu has loved dengaku, or miso-glazed taro, since childhood
Thatched roofs in Japan date back to ancient times
Four generations sit down for a meal

Transcript

00:06

Time-honored crafts are always worth preserving.

00:15

It's done!

00:17

And so are the flavors we've loved since childhood.

00:36

There's no better feast.

00:41

From one generation to another.

00:48

I can't let this tradition die with me.

00:54

Let's follow this man's story by looking through the kitchen window.

01:22

The town of Takamori in Kumamoto Prefecture sits in the caldera of Mt. Aso.

01:32

The area is famous for the production of pampas grass.

01:45

And 96-year-old master craftsman Honda Sueyasu has been harnessing this plant for years.

01:58

These are good.

02:05

He makes thatched roofs in a style dating back to ancient Japan.

02:15

The pampas grass is dried, cut, and laid out.

02:26

It keeps buildings cool in summer and warm in winter.

02:34

Creating the angles and curves needs a great deal of skill.

02:47

Sueyasu displayed a talent for the work in his 20s.

02:51

And the rest is history.

02:57

Now, he's passing those skills on to his son and grandson.

03:06

We store the pampas grass here.

03:12

Grandson Tatsuo is in charge these days.

03:19

My grandfather no longer works on-site.

03:22

But he cuts about 1,000 bundles of
pampas grass every year, all on his own.

03:29

He's probably the only person his age
still cutting grass.

03:35

We need to keep refining our skills.

03:40

Eighty years ago, most houses here had thatched roofs.

03:45

Many of those still standing are considered pieces of cultural heritage.

03:49

The number of thatchers has also dwindled.

03:56

What's important is whether future
generations continue this work.

04:09

But that's not the only thing Sueyasu wants to pass on.

04:16

He can often be seen toiling away in his garden.

04:23

He carefully tends to the things he grows.

04:32

And there's one vegetable he loves most of all.

04:38

Isn't this a great taro?

04:41

I'd give it full marks.

04:45

This is Tsurunoko taro, a local specialty.

04:49

The soil here is volcanic.

04:52

It's not as nutritious as soil elsewhere.

05:00

Tsurunoko is an uncommon taro.

05:03

But it grows well here because of the unique soil.

05:10

Some say they look like the necks of cranes.

05:13

In Japanese - "tsuru."

05:18

I need to ensure the taro
here grow big and strong.

05:24

Just like the people.

05:39

Sueyasu's family love Tsurunoko because they make for a delicious snack.

05:47

Especially when freshly harvested.

05:56

We let him take charge.

06:01

He loves his taro.

06:06

I'm home!

06:08

The family gravitate toward the steaming pot.

06:21

Boiling takes about 50 minutes.

06:33

OK. Done!

06:38

Sueyasu recommends enjoying them simply with soy sauce.

07:03

Good!

07:06

My taro farming skills make
all the difference.

07:30

Sueyasu and his wife also earn a living by farming.

07:35

And Tsurunoko have played a starring role.

07:42

Everyone used to have a vegetable garden.
We all planted taro.

07:48

I've been eating them
since I was a child.

07:53

It's nothing new.

08:00

But during and after World War Two, Tsurunoko fell out of favor.

08:09

They are such a small taro.

08:13

They become even smaller when peeled.
That doesn't leave much to eat.

08:19

People said Tsurunoko are no good,
and they started to fade away.

08:27

But Sueyasu and his wife didn't give up on this humble little vegetable.

08:34

They joined hands with the other townsfolk to start a revival, and offered Tsurunoko at events.

08:43

They served them with a sweet miso sauce.

08:46

The dish is called "Takamori Dengaku."

08:53

It's been an absolute favorite of Sueyasu's since he was a boy.

08:59

Word soon spread.

09:01

And in turn, more farmers started planting Tsurunoko.

09:12

Let me show you how it's done!

09:20

Sueyasu doesn't want a lifetime's work to go to waste.

09:24

So he's passing the baton to his family.

09:32

- It'll become extinct if we stop.
- This taro is like no other.

09:37

I've tried growing Tsurunoko before,
but it didn't go very well.

09:43

They weren't like Grandpa's.

09:46

I realized they need a lot of care.

09:52

I've been teaching what I know
ever since I was young.

10:03

We need to give all this
to our successors.

10:06

I can't let this tradition die with me.

10:27

Times are changing on the rooftops, too.

10:37

Three years ago, Sueyasu's great-grandson Ryuki started on the path to becoming a thatcher.

10:46

Few people choose this profession,
but I think my dad's work is cool.

10:53

I've been wanting to do this
ever since I was a boy.

10:59

Ryuki is the youngest thatcher in Japan.

11:04

Just 19 years old.

11:12

Before long, he'll become the torch bearer.

11:18

Our fourth generation also has
great talent.

11:22

I dream of him becoming a master.

11:27

Someone who will make his name
known among future generations.

11:38

The family are hosting a dinner party for their fellow thatchers.

11:46

And there's no guessing what's on the menu.

11:59

Misako is preparing the Dengaku sauce.

12:04

It's made with sake and a blend of four sugars.

12:14

I also add Japanese "sansho" pepper leaves.

12:17

This is my own recipe.

12:22

I adjust the sweetness to my liking.

12:28

Sueyasu loves it.

12:41

Thank you for the preparations.

12:51

This is my special taro.

12:54

Sueyasu's family and the other thatchers have all come together.

13:02

You need to stick it in diagonally.

13:06

Sueyasu even makes the skewers by hand.

13:15

The meal includes Tsurunoko, "konnyaku" and tofu - all grilled by the flaming charcoals of the hearth.

13:26

And of course, everything's slathered with plenty of sauce.

13:40

We used to have a hearth in the
house when we were children.

13:48

I enjoyed sitting there,
making "Takamori Dengaku."

13:53

Nothing better than this.

13:59

I can taste the "sansho!"

14:03

The miso is delicious!

14:05

Who made it?

14:06

Me, of course!

14:11

I'm so happy.

14:16

Maybe too happy.

14:27

Four generations, right here.

14:34

Sueyasu loves bringing people together.

14:40

He does that by putting roofs over their heads and keeping them well fed.

14:52

Grandpa, you're crying!