In this small rural mountain town, they are celebrating a summer festival.

Relatives who left the town look forward to returning home for the annual event.

For the people who have lived here, there's a cherished dish that's essential to the celebration.

When the festival music begins,

I make the marinated herring
with "sansho" Japanese pepper.

You can't have the festival without it.

I'm unsure it's as good as they say,
but I'm told it's very tasty.

It makes me happy hearing this
and I'm glad to make the effort.

Let's look through the kitchen window and follow her story.

Minamiaizu Town in Fukushima Prefecture is located about 200 kilometers north of Tokyo.

Cradled by mountains, it is a quiet town with a population of around 14,000.

In town, there is a well-established fish shop.

The shop is run by Akutsu Yasuko.

Though a fish shop, there is no fish on display.

We hardly sell fresh fish anymore.

Only dried and preserved
seafood products.

Having to replace the sale of fresh fish, the shop's main product is now this.

This is dried herring.
Top quality.

This is gutted and dried herring.

It's a traditional food.

In remote places far from the sea, such as here,

thoroughly dried and preserved fish has always been considered valuable.

Wow, 29 pieces!

I'm happy when there's a lot in a box.

The herrings are marinated with "sansho," a Japanese pepper.

This dish is a local tradition and is essential to their summer festival.

Yasuko began selling the marinated herring as the shop's specialty about twenty years ago.

She carefully cuts off the head, tail, and abdomen bones to make eating easier.

I boast when my marinated herring
comes out well.

When people return from far away,
they tell me how delicious it is.

I'm always glad to hear this.

She uses freshly picked "sansho" from her garden.

This one.

It's my "sansho" plant.

Every household used to have one
or two of these growing nearby.

"Sansho" is a type of spice used in Japan and China.

Harvested between spring and summer, it is known for its refreshing aroma and unique sharp taste.

More and more people
like "sansho" nowadays.

This makes me happy.

She washes the freshly picked "sansho" in water from the nearby mountains.

We dug a well at the back of our house.
The water comes from there.

She places plenty of "sansho" leaves and berries in the bucket.

She then packs the prepared herring tightly and covers them with even more "sansho."

What defines the dish is Yasuko's secret sauce,

which combines ingredients such as soy sauce, sugar, and vinegar.

This is my pot for marinating herring.
Cool design, isn't it?

This dish even has its own specialized earthenware.

Every household in the area is said to have at least one,

and local brides bring a pot when getting married.

I believe this is the best crockery
to marinate herring.

Homes around for generations
usually have several in storage.

The herrings look more enticing in it.

This is Yasuko's marinated herring with "sansho."

It is her pride and joy.

The fresh aroma of "sansho" adds a bit of spiciness.

You'll want to come back for more.

This is Kiichi, Yasuko's husband.

They have been running the business together for almost 60 years.

Incredibly enough, Kiichi is also a master bear hunter.

The barrel holds three shots.
I used them all up.

I reloaded and aimed again,
but he was gone.

He reappeared right beside me.
Here he is.

Was I ever surprised.

I was happy to take it down!

The fish shop run by Yasuko and Kiichi was founded by Kiichi's father nearly 90 years ago.

Living in the mountains, the locals could only obtain dried fish.

As theirs was the only shop offering fresh fish, the business thrived,

and the shop became renowned as the "Dream Fish Shop."

Business was still booming when Yasuko married into the family.

She says that this kept her from properly looking after her children.

Yes, we were very busy back then.
We had three children to deal with.

They'd crawl around.
It was hard work looking after them.

I had to tie my eldest son's
waist to the leg of the TV.

He'd try to get out to the
storefront but would get stuck.

I thought letting him
cry for a bit was okay.

We sure were busy.

At our peak, we were getting orders for
sea bream, abalone, and sea urchin.

All the expensive seafood you
couldn't readily get here.

As time passed and with the emergence of large supermarkets,

the town's shopping district saw a decrease in business.

Customers seeking fresh fish opted for the more modern stores.

But their faltering business was saved by this local delicacy,

which had become a staple of the summer festival.

Customarily, it was made
only for the festival.

But people said they wanted it year-round.
So we made it our main product.

I'm unsure it's as good as they say,
but I'm told it's very tasty.

It makes me happy hearing this
and I'm glad to make the effort.

Everyone knows our specialty!

In the past, nearly every household made their own marinated herring.

Today, many buy Yasuko's dish when the summer festival nears.

It's her busiest time of the year.

This'll be my lunch.

My daughter loves it.
We like it grilled.

It's really good. Please try it.

Our shop can carry on because
of the marinated herring.

I think it's a good thing.

I've been telling my son that I'll
close the business after I retire.

This means there'll be no successor.

We're the last generation to do this.

Their three children have pursued careers in different fields.

The couple shares a quiet meal together.

Thank you for the meal.

It is the end of July.

The three-day summer festival is about to begin.

Four big floats carrying children are drawn around the town.

The energetic shouts of the festival participants spur them on.

A main attraction of the festival is when the children perform "kabuki."

Their daughter Sachiko is back home for a visit.

Taste it.

It needs more seasoning.

Really?

It's a refined taste.

It's the time of year when liveliness comes back to her town.

It's the day Yasuko looks forward to.

It's a festival that stretches back 800 years.

I'm home.

Their younger son Kenji, a farmer, has returned.

- First harvest this year?
- Tomatoes started ripening yesterday.

Kenji looks forward to the festival and makes his way home every year to attend it.

As soon as he's arrived, he puts on a traditional "happi" and heads off to the festivities.

At this time of year, the festival
music starts going off in our heads.

Even when working.

We all look forward to this season.

The sun has set, and it's time for dinner.

Three generations of the Akutsu family have gathered.

On the table is the dish they've all been waiting for.

Once a year, the table, usually set for two, is surrounded by lively relatives.

Did you marinate this quickly?

Quickly?

Well, overnight.
Isn't it good?

It's fine but a bit tough.

That makes it tastier.

This is our family's best feast!

Even today, marinated herring with "sansho" continues to connect and draw families together.

It's the taste.

I once asked Mom for the recipe
but she wouldn't tell me.

I want to continue making
it for as long as possible.

For those who live in town and for those who make the long trip back home,

Yasuko's wish is to keep making the dish that never fails to bring a smile to so many faces.