We explore Machiya, a town in northeastern Tokyo known for its artisanal spirit. Along the way we visit traditional workshops, meet local craftspeople and learn about the area's history.
Today on "Dive in Tokyo,"
we spotlight Machiya.
We'll explore its long, narrow, maze-like alleys...
That smell of wood is lovely.
and encounter a rich heritage of craft traditions,
which have been cultivated over generations.
There you go.
It's gorgeous! I love it.
The town of Machiya values its craftspeople.
Join us as we discover how Machiya became,
and continues to be a town of artisans.
Machiya
Cultivating the Spirit of Craftsmanship
Machiya is located about 20 minutes north of Tokyo Station by train.
It's a low-lying area along the Sumida River.
It's also a transport hub at the intersection of three train lines.
Today I've come to a town called Machiya.
Although I've lived in Tokyo for a while
and I've been to several cities in this area,
it's my first time coming to Machiya.
From what I've heard, there are a lot of professional,
traditional Japanese craftsmen here,
a subject I'm super interested in.
Kailene is an illustrator originally from Minnesota in the US.
She's been living in Japan for 10 years.
She's published an illustrated guide to Japanese food culture
featuring her watercolors.
Today we'll start by exploring the area next to Machiya Station.
This town really has a retro vibe to it.
A lot of little shops, little places to pop into.
Oh, we've got like a retro toyshop? Oh, that's fun.
These little things in the windows.
It looks like you've got traditional Japanese "wagashi" sweets.
We've arranged to meet with our first guide for the day nearby.
Hello there!
- Thanks for your time today.
- My pleasure.
Curator Kamekawa Yasuteru
has been researching the history and culture of Machiya
and the surrounding areas.
What kind of town is Machiya?
It's known for the Toden Arakawa streetcar line, which is right there.
We also have a subway line.
- Good access.
- That's right.
This area has a lot going on.
But further out it's mostly residential areas and factories.
- There are two sides to Machiya.
- Yes.
We ask Kamekawa to show us that other side of Machiya.
Right around here, the townscape starts to change.
Oh, look at this path!
Hello!
This is used by locals.
It's a winding path.
Fascinating! Quite unusual.
This narrow path courses several hundred meters
through a residential neighborhood.
Its distinct shape comes from the fact that it used to be a waterway.
These houses are so close together! Why is that?
There used to be rice paddies and other fields along here.
Machiya and its surroundings were once an idyllic landscape
where farmers grew rice and other crops.
But its population exploded in the aftermath
of the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake.
Because this area was largely spared from damage,
there was an influx of people from central Tokyo looking for a new home.
Instead of being rezoned for residential use,
the waterways and footpaths between rice fields became roads,
resulting in a town of complex alleys.
Before the quake, only 600 people or so lived around here.
Then the population grew by 50 times over 20 years.
Fascinating.
So there's a historical reason why these streets are so narrow.
Among those who relocated to the Machiya area
were artisans who'd had their workshops destroyed in the disaster.
That was the beginning of Machiya's history as a town of craftspeople.
Kamekawa takes us to a local shop.
Hello!
Thank you for your time today.
Murai Masataka runs a hundred-year-old furniture workshop.
He and his younger brother Yasuo have been working
to keep the family business going.
That smell of wood is lovely.
What do you make here?
We make chests out of paulownia wood.
Wow, beautiful!
That's all made by hand?
Yes.
It looks so perfect!
Why paulownia wood?
Paulownia has the ability to absorb moisture.
When humidity is high, the wood swells up.
So the contents of the chest are protected from moisture.
Paulownia chests feature excellent sealing,
and are moisture and insect resistant.
For centuries, Japanese households have used them
to store kimonos and other valuables,
passing them down as family heirlooms.
The Murais' workshop was founded in Machiya
by their grandfather back in 1922.
The family's been crafting chests out of paulownia wood
for over 100 years.
What's more, they also do repairs and restorations.
Murai shows us a drawer he's currently fixing up.
I check to see if anything's loose.
This board here is loose.
So I apply glue...
...then secure it with pegs.
You use wooden pegs!
Wow!
Using wooden pegs instead of metal nails means the chests
can be used for longer without any need to worry about rusting.
This is how they’ve been made for the past hundred years.
After the repairs are done, it's over to the younger brother.
The chest is repainted and polished with wax
to make it look as good as new.
What makes Machiya particularly suited to traditional craftwork?
The Sumida River is nearby.
They used to transport timber by bundling logs into rafts,
which were hauled up onto the riverbank.
Back then, there were many lumbermills around here.
I see!
Along the banks of the nearby Sumida River,
there used to be many lumberyards for storing wood
that had been brought in by boat.
That made Machiya the ideal place for woodworkers to set up shop.
Craftspeople of all kinds gathered,
making everything from furniture to pencils.
There's so much tradition here. I hope it lives on.
These skills and knowledge have been handed down across generations.
We will do our best.
Please do.
There are many more craftspeople like Murai-san in Machiya.
I hope you enjoy your visit today.
I'm excited to see more!
Right over here.
Next, we head to a workshop that gives visitors a hands-on craft experience.
- Hello!
- Hi, welcome!
I'm Kailene.
Matsuzaki Keizaburo is a woodblock printer.
Come on in!
This is where I work.
I see.
And what kind of work do you do?
I make woodblock prints.
The colors are so beautiful.
This one depicts plum blossoms.
I love the gradation of colors.
Traditional woodblock prints are characterized
by vibrant colors and bold compositions.
Among the most iconic examples are the works of ukiyo-e masters
such as Katsushika Hokusai and Utagawa Hiroshige,
who were active approximately 200 years ago.
The art of traditional printmaking lives on here in Machiya.
Matsuzaki, who's been honing his craft for about 60 years,
is one of Japan's few remaining master woodblock printers.
He has an international reputation for the quality of his prints,
and he's worked to promote the ukiyo-e tradition
in the US, France, and more.
We asked him to give us a demonstration.
First, he applies color to the portions of the woodblock
that he wants to transfer.
Add a little bit of starch paste.
Why paste?
To help the water-based pigment adhere to the surface.
Interesting.
He carefully positions a piece of paper that has the design printed on it...
then rubs the back to transfer the pigment.
And there you have it.
Beautiful!
In woodblock printing, multiple blocks are used to transfer the colors.
Applying them one by one to the same piece of paper
is what gives ukiyo-e prints their vibrant look.
The more colors a design involves,
the more time and effort is required to produce the print.
Would you like to try?
Yes, I'd love to!
Go ahead and choose a design.
This workshop offers hands-on printing experiences.
There are several different designs to choose from.
This one.
I love the snowy landscape.
OK!
- I can do this one?
- Yes!
Matsuzaki readies a block with countless little holes carved into it.
When the pattern is transferred to a piece of paper,
it becomes snow falling against a dark sky.
Apply the color like this, then...
Place the paper...
OK.
Just the top part.
A little more over here.
- Is that OK?
- Yes.
It's a little fuzzy up here.
I didn't apply enough pressure.
This is hard!
Time to try again.
From edge to edge.
That should be good.
The moment of truth!
- Looks good.
- Yes, indeed!
It's so interesting though, how such a process like this
can create something so detailed. We've got the footprints in the snow,
and then we've got these, sort of, little, tiny
snowflakes falling in the air, all created with wood.
How does it feel to be a traditional craftsman
working here in Machiya?
Arakawa Ward values its craftspeople.
The ward has set up an organization to preserve local traditional crafts.
They want to save traditional culture.
In Arakawa Ward where Machiya is located,
there are 59 designated artisans specializing in traditional crafts.
The municipality is working together with communities
to preserve their expertise.
That's why Machiya continues to be known as a town of craftspeople.
You want to live and work in a comfortable environment.
Machiya is a wonderful town.
Next, we head to a shop that's long been a fixture in this community.
Look what we have here.
A cute little pink shop.
- Hello!
- Welcome! Please, come in.
What kind of shop is this?
We specialize in a type of bonbon, a sugar shell filled with fruit syrup.
It smells really sweet in here!
These sugar candies were introduced to Japan about a century ago.
They usually contain some kind of filling,
such as liquor or seasonal fruit syrup.
Wanna try?
Yes please!
That's really good!
Wow!
- That's a bonbon for you.
- So tasty!
A crunchy sugar shell...
And a burst of syrupy filling.
These are dangerously yummy, I don't think I could stop.
I love the texture. So fun!
The candies are made by cooking down sugar water and syrup,
which is then poured into a cornstarch mold.
After a week, the sugar crystallizes around the liquid center.
Hi, we've come for some bonbon candies!
Welcome! Take your pick.
The shop is where local kids come to satisfy their sweet tooth.
I was hooked from the first bite.
They're so yummy.
Muramatsu Yoshitaka has been making bonbon sugar candies
here in Machiya for 50 years.
When I first moved to Machiya, my neighbors were all fellow artisans.
It was a town of craftspeople.
People who took pride and passion in their craft.
Yes. A town of professionals.
Good afternoon!
Muramatsu introduces us to someone
who knows the neighborhood intimately.
Okuyama Hiroko is Machiya-born and raised,
and once worked at this candy shop.
This was my first time eating these sugar candies. They're great!
Right?
So this shop has been here for a long time?
Yes. I mean, I worked here about 45 years ago.
Okuyama says this candy store has long been a favorite
among local artisans and children alike.
Furniture makers, candy makers... this was a town of artisans.
And there used to be a bathhouse nearby.
In the evening, after work, everyone would go to the bathhouse.
The neighborhood was quite lively.
These days you don't see these sugar candies around.
We're the only shop left in Tokyo that makes them.
I hope you can keep making candy in this wonderful town.
I will do my best.
We're rooting for you.
Okuyama knows a lot of people in the neighborhood.
She says that many of them are craftspeople.
What does Machiya mean to you?
Living here is fun. Lots of familiar faces.
I set out for a 30-minute shopping trip,
but then I run into people, and it ends up taking an hour.
5 minutes of shopping, 30 minutes of chatting.
- Sounds wonderful.
- I enjoy it.
My childhood friend lives here.
She brings us to meet a local craftsman.
Hello!
Hey there!
Hello.
- You're childhood friends?
- Yes.
How long?
About 60 years.
This is Ishida Ichiro.
Ishida makes "tsumami-kanzashi,"
traditional Japanese ornamental hairpins.
He's been honing his craft for 60 years.
For centuries, Japanese women have worn these accessories
to celebrate special occasions.
These look so lovely. Are they made by hand?
Yes. All handmade with silk.
Oh, silk?
They're so intricate. How are they made?
Wanna see?
I fold the silk into a triangle.
Then once more.
I layer pieces together and fold them like this.
That gives you these shapes.
How cute!
The pinched petals are glued one by one
onto a construction paper base attached to the end of a wire stem.
Lastly, some finishing touches are added to the center.
There you go.
Yay!
These are so gorgeous. They really raise your spirits.
And they go well with kimono.
How delightful!
Ishida says that, at one time, they were so busy
that his entire family would work together to make the hairpins.
But times have changed.
Still, he hopes to pass on the kanzashi tradition to the next generation.
He occasionally gives workshops at local elementary schools.
These days the world is filled with mass-produced accessories. But...
Our hairpins are one of a kind.
They're original.
Your own little piece of Japanese culture.
Seeing all these different craftsmen with a passion for their work,
continuing these traditional Japanese skills has been really interesting to see,
things I haven't really thought about before I was able to learn about.
It makes me hope that Machiya continues to be a city
that preserves Japanese culture.
Lastly, we visit a young artisan who's determined
to take Machiya's tradition of craftsmanship into the future.
The next place we're heading to is somewhere that I'm super interested in.
As an illustrator, this really aligns with my interest
because they make frames for artwork.
Let's go check it out!
- Hello! I'm Kailene.
- I'm Kurihara.
- Thank you for your time.
- My pleasure.
Tell me about this workshop.
We do custom, made-to-order picture frames.
That's so cool!
This workshop specializes in "Tokyo Gakubuchi,"
a style of frame making that is recognized as a traditional craft of Tokyo.
Kurihara Daichi has been in this field for 15 years.
Picture frames can be works of art in their own right.
Yes. Ours are all made by hand.
So even if some have the same design, the result feels slightly different.
That's the beauty of craftsmanship.
We ask Kurihara if we can take a peek at their process.
First, a member of his team cuts the individual pieces for the frame
using the customer's specifications as a guide.
Then, another craftsperson makes adjustments down to the millimeter
so that the pieces fit perfectly together.
Glue is applied to the pieces,
which are then attached together,
creating the base of the frame.
Then it's time for Kurihara to get to work.
These are wooden molds.
These molds are used to create the elaborate detailing
that defines the Tokyo Gakubuchi tradition.
He carefully presses a clay-like mixture into the mold.
And then... you remove it from the mold.
Beautiful!
You take these decorative pieces and place them onto the frame, like so.
He then applies a layer of gold leaf and/or paint
in order to create the appearance of a wood sculpture.
The result is a frame that beautifully complements the artwork inside.
The Tokyo Gakubuchi tradition has roots in the late 19th century.
As Western-style paintings became popular in Japan,
more frames were needed to house them.
Artisans incorporated Japanese touches into the detailing,
such as the use of "urushi" lacquer and gold leaf.
This is a work of art!
I suppose so.
So if a client requests two identical frames,
we can't comply!
Kurihara originally moved to Machiya 15 years ago
after becoming fascinated with picture frames.
He began working as an apprentice at this Tokyo Gakubuchi workshop.
Frames are meant to enhance an artwork.
I really enjoy working on this element that sits outside the spotlight.
Frames are great in and of themselves.
But when art is put inside, it brings out the best in both.
They somehow create new value, new beauty.
I love my work. It's very fulfilling.
Kurihara is currently working
to take the Tokyo Gakubuchi tradition into new territory.
These frames were made in collaboration with contemporary artists.
They're designed to be an extension of the pictures themselves.
He says that the local community of artisans
is a valuable source of creative inspiration,
which he channels into his own work.
I know traditional craftspeople of all kinds around here.
When I see them at work, it stirs something up inside me.
They inspire me to hone my craft.
How do you see yourself moving forward here in Machiya?
I want to promote my work with frames to people of all kinds.
Maybe they'll see that we're in Machiya.
Then maybe they'll discover what else this place has to offer.
I hope to contribute to my community, to the revitalization of Machiya.
At first glance, Machiya might seem like a simple and quiet neighborhood,
but a closer look reveals so much more.
Its history, from farmland to factory, really influenced the Machiya of today,
a city with a passion for community and traditional craftsmanship.
Each time I dive into Tokyo,
I'm so excited to learn about these interesting neighborhoods like Machiya.