Nerima is an area of central Tokyo with a history of agriculture. It is also famous for being the birthplace of Japanese animation. We uncover its past and learn how locals are looking to the future.
Today on "Dive in Tokyo,"
we explore the Nerima area.
It's home to residential neighborhoods and a thriving agricultural industry.
We're still right in the middle of Tokyo, but look at this!
We'll visit a vegetable farm with a 200-year history...
It's huge!
...and see how residents and farmers have been living side-by-side for generations.
We can grow anything here. It's the urban countryside.
We'll also see how Nerima played a key role in the development of anime.
Join us as we uncover the history and heritage
of this town of agriculture and animation.
"Dive in Tokyo"
Nerima - The City of Agriculture and Animation
Nerima is the most northwestern of the 23 special wards
that make up the core of the Tokyo metropolitan area.
Several train lines connect the area to central hubs
like Ikebukuro and Shinjuku.
Today we'll start at a station on the western side.
Hi, it's Kailene.
Today I've come to Nerima, a city that I'm not super familiar with.
I know there's a lot of housing here,
but it's definitely not a place that many tourists come.
Let's learn today what makes Nerima special. Let's go!
Kailene is an illustrator originally from the state of Minnesota in the US.
She's been living in Japan for about 10 years.
In 2022, she published an illustrated guide to Japanese food culture
featuring her watercolors.
We're right outside the station now,
but I found something a bit intriguing.
Oizumi Anime Gate.
And here we've got
a number of anime character statues.
Lined up on the deck are characters from classic anime series
such as "Astro Boy," "Galaxy Express 999" and more.
So what's the story behind these statues?
- Hello.
- Hi! Pleased to meet you.
I'm Haraguchi Masahiro.
Haraguchi Masahiro has spent many years studying the history of Japanese animation.
Is this area famous for anime?
Yes.
It's said that Nerima
is where Japan's first full-scale animation works were produced.
These characters were all created by studios that were based nearby.
Do any of those studios remain today?
Yes.
When you trace the history of Japan's animated films and TV series,
it all goes back to two studios right here in Nerima.
One of those studios is located 15 minutes from the station on foot.
It says Toei Tokyo Studios.
Yes, this studio lot belongs to a movie production company.
They built a space on the property dedicated to producing animation.
This studio was opened in 1934.
In the '50s, ownership passed to Toei, a major motion picture company.
They expanded the facilities with multiple soundstages
and an exterior backlot for filming urban scenes.
And in 1956,
they built Japan's first full-scale animation studio on the grounds.
The company president at the time
was one of the first in Japan to see the potential of animation.
So he built a studio for producing feature-length films.
Three floors, reinforced concrete, air conditioned.
Suddenly there was this new building in the middle of an area of farmland.
A staff of roughly 100 people got to work
creating Japan's first feature-length color animation film.
Because experienced animators were virtually non-existent,
the company made it a point to hire new graduates
so that they could cultivate a workforce.
After more than two years in production,
they released the 78-minute film "Hakujaden,"
also known as "The White Snake."
It received a tremendous response.
This studio is also
where several of Japanese animation's leading lights got their start.
Among them, filmmaking legends
such as Miyazaki Hayao, Takahata Isao, and Hosoda Mamoru.
Many industry veterans out there got their start at Toei Animation.
They've played a key role in supporting the industry.
That's all thanks to the fact that this studio was built here in Nerima.
In 2018, the building was completely rebuilt,
and a museum was opened on the first floor.
The space features some items from the studio's past,
including this animator's desk from when it first opened.
It sat on the front lines of animation for nearly 60 years,
serving as a workstation in the making of countless classics.
Toei's animation studio paved the way for more production companies
to set up facilities in Nerima.
Here it is.
- This building?
- Yes.
This is Mushi Production,
the animation studio founded by the famous manga artist Tezuka Osamu.
This studio opened its doors in 1961.
Tezuka Osamu set about adapting one of his own manga works
into a television series.
In 1963, Japan's first 30-minute weekly animated series,
"Astro Boy," hit the airwaves.
No one in Japan had ever attempted anything like it before.
Making a 30-minute show every week is a huge task.
But they pulled it off.
They couldn't just make one at a time.
They had to be working on multiple episodes simultaneously.
Now there are animation studios across Japan.
But whether it's the techniques or the people,
they almost always have a connection to Toei or Mushi Production.
For people in the industry, this area has a special significance.
I bet!
Today, Nerima is still home to over 100 animation studios,
large and small, that continue to produce new works.
Next, we head to a residential area in the northeast of Nerima.
We're still right in the middle of Tokyo, but look at this!
We're also in the middle of a bunch of fields.
This is not the Tokyo that I know.
We arrive at a cluster of fields in the middle of the neighborhood.
It turns out that about 40 percent of the farmland
in Tokyo's 23 special wards is located here in Nerima.
The local way of life and economy
has been rooted in agriculture for hundreds of years.
Today, close to 400 households are involved in farming.
They grow cabbage, broccoli, potatoes... all in all,
over 50 varieties of vegetables and fruits.
Why did Nerima develop as a farming region?
Let's meet someone who can tell us more.
I'm Watado. Nice to meet you.
This is farmer Watado Hideyuki.
He's well-versed in the history of agriculture in Nerima.
I'm very curious about this here. What is it?
This monument marks the former site of a stately mansion
built by Tokugawa Tsunayoshi.
Tokugawa Tsunayoshi ruled Japan about 340 years ago.
Prior to becoming shogun,
he stayed in this area while recuperating from an illness.
During his time here recuperating, he looked around the territory.
He noticed that the rice yield was quite poor.
The people were living in poverty.
So Tsunayoshi had "daikon" radish seeds brought in from central Japan.
He distributed the seeds to the farmers for them to sow.
Later, he ordered the farmers to improve the quality through selective breeding.
The fruits of their labor came to be widely known as the Nerima daikon.
As the population of old Tokyo exploded,
Nerima further developed as a center of agriculture
supplying the people with daikon and other vegetables.
One of the reasons the industry flourished was geography.
In the north of the region was a highway leading to central Tokyo.
Farmers along routes like these used horses and cattle
to carry their produce into town to sell.
Then they'd bring back manure to use as fertilizer.
Over time, more and more people moved into farmland areas.
The fields gradually disappeared, but a small amount remains in Nerima.
So those who continue to farm in Tokyo have pride in what they do.
I'm sure they'll have a lot to share with you.
And with that, we decide to pay a visit
to a local grower of the celebrated Nerima daikon.
So the greenery here is beautiful.
- Excuse me!
- Yes?
- Hello!
- Hi, welcome!
Watado Akira comes from a long line of farmers going back around 200 years.
He currently grows vegetables with his son.
You're a master farmer.
I've just been around a long time!
I've become an elder.
I turn 90 in a month.
And you're still at it!
There's no retiring from this.
So... Nerima daikon are quite famous.
- They're very long.
- Oh?
Regular daikon are about 45cm long.
These are between 70 and 80cm.
Wow! I'm intrigued.
Watado leads us to his daikon field.
He produces about 3,000 of the Nerima variety a year.
Want to pull one out?
How do I do it?
Like this.
Oh, there it is!
Watch out, it'll crack.
Don't twist it!
Who knew it would be this hard!
Don't let a daikon get the best of you!
- Here, try again.
- OK.
Pull it straight out.
It's huge!
I've never seen anything like this!
- Wow! So this is...
- A Nerima daikon.
I underestimated the power of the Nerima daikon!
- Big, isn't it?
- Very!
Watado shows us how it's done.
- There it is.
- Voila.
You made it look so easy!
Why was it so hard for me?
It's your lower back!
My lower back! Did you guys hear that?
Digging up Nerima daikon is quite the workout.
So why are they so long?
You can't grow daikon this long just anywhere.
The soil here in Nerima is soft.
There's a layer of volcanic ash underneath.
On top is this black soil. About 50-60 centimeters' worth.
The black soil accumulated over many years
through the decomposition of organic matter.
Its softness allows the root of the Nerima daikon to stretch downward,
deeper into the ground.
For hundreds of years, Nerima produced the vegetable in large quantities.
But then the 20th century saw a gradual decline in production
due to factors such as drought, and the conversion of farmland to residential land
to accommodate the growing population.
This vegetable has a long heritage.
So I was determined to somehow keep it alive.
After all, the name Nerima daikon is known throughout the land.
It's a cultural product.
- It's a part of our diet.
- Right.
Currently, over 20 farmers grow the local specialty.
Watado will now show us a traditional way of preparing it.
- Are those being dried?
- Yes.
These here have been drying for about 10 days.
I see.
You want them to get to this stage.
Watado has dehydrated these daikon to prepare them for pickling.
They'll be packed inside barrels along with rice bran, salt and sugar,
and allowed to ferment for two months.
The result is "takuan,"
a traditional dish that became popular in the 18th century.
Later, during World War II,
the pickled radishes were canned and supplied to soldiers.
Watado has just started preparing the latest batch,
which means they're not yet ready to eat.
So instead, he offers us another one of his Nerima daikon specialties.
Looks good!
Wait till you try it! It's melt-in-your-mouth.
Try the soup!
Here I go!
How is it?
Delicious. This is wonderful.
He's simmered Nerima daikon and pork belly until tender.
Slow-cooking the daikon draws out the savory umami flavor.
It's true, simple is best!
Next, we visit the nearby fields belonging to Watado Hideyuki,
whom we met earlier.
So these are your fields!
Yes!
He grows Nerima daikon,
as well as a variety of what are called Edo-Tokyo vegetables.
What are Edo-Tokyo vegetables?
They are designated varieties of locally grown heirloom vegetables
that were originally produced between the 18th and early 20th centuries.
He shows us some other examples.
See the white?
Is that a turnip?
How cute!
This is a Kanamachi small white turnip.
They have a beautiful shape and good flavor.
So we're working to preserve this vegetable.
This is a Magome Sanzun carrot.
These are nothing like your average supermarket carrot.
Their flavor is much richer.
Starting around the 18th century,
vegetable seeds were brought into old Tokyo from across Japan.
Those that were suited to the regional climate and soil conditions
took root and became local staples.
Today about 50 are designated as Edo-Tokyo vegetables.
Nerima daikon, Komatsuna mustard spinach, Takinogawa carrots.
They're named after the places where they were grown.
Because the seeds have not been genetically modified,
they can be difficult to grow,
and yield vegetables of varying sizes and shapes.
Over the years, production has steadily declined,
but municipal governments, agricultural cooperatives and farmers
are working together to keep the tradition alive.
Watado has been focusing on growing these heirloom varieties
for the past 20 years.
As I carry on these vegetable traditions,
I try to show respect for the old ways while also using modern techniques.
I think it's important that we try to keep these traditions alive.
Sounds very rewarding.
It is.
Today, Edo-Tokyo vegetables are often sold at farmers markets,
and are also featured on the menus of many restaurants.
Here in Nerima, residents have easy access to locally grown produce.
I think right here might be where they're selling the vegetables.
Let's check it out.
Wow. Okay, so this is unexpected.
We've got lockers here filled with a bunch of different vegetables.
We have some cauliflower, we've got eggplant.
Wow, this is a really interesting way to sell vegetables.
This stall features an array of 90 coin-operated lockers.
They're filled with a bounty of vegetables.
Locals come here throughout the day to buy freshly harvested produce.
Look at that.
The veggies here are fresh and delicious.
This morning we came to buy spinach.
I live nearby, so I buy most of my veggies here.
Hi there!
Hello.
I'm Kailene.
The vegetable vending machine is owned by Yoshida Tomohiro,
who runs a farm with his parents.
My grandparents used to sell misshapen vegetables here.
Gradually as we began growing more varieties, we became busy,
so we installed these lockers.
The stall is unmanned and open 24 hours a day.
Every morning at seven thirty,
Yoshida's mother fills the lockers with vegetables,
which are restocked as needed.
They're open throughout the year except for the New Year holidays.
The lockers only accept 100-yen coins.
So they've come up with a way to provide change.
I see something in there.
Yes.
It only takes 100-yen coins.
When we want to give change, we place it on top of the produce.
I see, so you don't need someone here on duty.
Exactly.
- Come on in.
- So cute!
The setup is also a hit with the local children.
Here you go.
In here, please.
How fun!
Yes, she gets to do it herself!
If only there were one of these in my neighborhood!
Throughout Nerima, there are about 60 vegetable vending machines
like the one run by Yoshida.
The local government has also launched a number of farming initiatives,
such as renting out farmland to residents,
and supplying locally grown vegetables for school lunches.
In the long term, the hope is that the urban farmers
can continue to go about their activities in harmony with the greater community.
What are the challenges of growing vegetables in an urban area?
As you can see, there are homes all around.
Machines like tractors can be quite noisy.
If we're out here making noise on weekend mornings,
people may not like that.
So we try to be conscious of that.
How would you describe Nerima?
It's the urban countryside.
Wonderful. That's so true.
It's a peaceful retreat where you can get away from the hustle and bustle.
Yes.
We're approaching the end of our tour of Nerima.
To round out our day, we head to a restaurant that serves locally grown produce.
- Hello!
- Welcome!
I heard that you serve Nerima veggies.
- Yes, we do.
- Fantastic!
Nishida Kazuhisa is the manager.
He gets some of his vegetables from Yoshida's farm.
The two men met at an event organized by the local government,
and have been working together ever since to promote Nerima produce.
Today's haul is chrysanthemum greens, broccoli, and cabbage.
Nishida regularly consults with Yoshida when creating a seasonal menu.
First up today is broccoli.
Here you go, spicy-savory deep-fried broccoli.
I recommend a little lemon.
Looks great.
Deep-fried broccoli isn't something you see often.
Yeah.
Here I go!
When you use fresh ingredients like this,
you really can get the essence of broccoli.
It has the strong broccoli flavor in there as well, and that texture,
nice and firm and in great combination with the crispy outside.
So you talk to growers about what's in season?
Yes. We discuss what's available, and I think up a menu.
That's a great approach!
Up next are chrysanthemum greens,
which have a distinct aroma and bitter flavor.
Nishida turns them into a pizza topping along with tuna flakes and cheese.
The idea is local production for local consumption.
I want to share that approach with people.
I get many customers who aren't aware that vegetables are grown in Nerima.
So we tell them about it, and pique their curiosity.
Then when they take a bite, they're delighted.
It makes them want to come back.
Finally, we ask Kailene, an illustrator specializing in Japanese food culture,
to reflect on her day in Nerima.
Nerima, a quite city on the outskirts of Tokyo.
It might not be a well-known tourist destination,
but there is still a lot of rich history to be discovered here.
From being the birthplace of anime,
to being a place where farmers preserve traditional Japanese agricultural culture,
it just goes to show that each area of Tokyo
has a lot of things to be discovered.
Come to Nerima and learn about the secrets of Tokyo.