Today on "Dive in Tokyo,"

we explore Hibiya.

It's home to Hibiya Park, an urban oasis,

and a series of theaters and hotels,

some of which go back over a century.

There's Godzilla up there!

It originally developed as a gateway for Western culture.

Today we'll go searching for traces of its past.

What's this?

I've never seen anything like this!

Join us as we discover the charm of Hibiya,

a town that continues to evolve with the times.

Dive in Tokyo
Hibiya - A Bustling Center of Social Activity

Hibiya is located in the very heart of Tokyo.

The district includes a park bordering the Imperial Palace

to the south and the surrounding areas.

Hi, it's Kailene.

Today I've come to Hibiya.

I used to work next door in Ginza,

so I've walked around the area a little bit.

My impression is there are a lot of Western-inspired buildings

as well as some historical ones.

Yet I don't really know the history around them.

Today I'm excited to talk to some experts to learn about what makes Hibiya special.

Kailene is an illustrator originally from the state of Minnesota in the US.

She's been living in Japan for 9 years.

In 2022 she published a guide to Japanese food and culture

featuring her watercolor illustrations.

We begin our day by meeting up with an expert in Hibiya's history.

Hello.

Shinohara Anna is a curator who studies the local history and landscape.

She leads us to a lookout spot in this building in the center of the district.

Feels great out here.

Yes, wonderful weather today.

Kailene, how does Hibiya look from up here?

It's beautiful. And so green!

Right. Today there's green all around.

But when you trace Hibiya's long history,

it turns out that this area used to be underwater.

Wow, this used to be the ocean?

Up until the early 17th century, this area was known as Hibiya Inlet,

which was connected to the bay.

About 400 years ago, back when this was still an inlet,

Tokugawa Ieyasu moved into the city of Edo, old Tokyo.

Today the area over there is the Imperial Palace.

Ieyasu commissioned Edo Castle to be built there.

He needed land around the castle for his samurai vassals to live.

So the inlet was filled, and mansions were built for "daimyo."

Daimyo were feudal lords who served the Edo shogunate.

They were high-ranking members of the samurai,

who were at the top of Japan's class system.

Their residences were known as "daimyo-yashiki."

Paintings depicting the city at the time suggest that many estates

lined the areas around the castle.

What happened to their mansions?

Today the daimyo are no more.

It all changed in the late 19th century.

The daimyo lost their status.

Their lands were confiscated by the state.

And then this area became home to many key government buildings.

Shinohara takes us to the spot where one of those key buildings once stood.

That area under construction served a critical role in Hibiya's history.

What was it?

It was once the site of the Rokumeikan, a venue for entertaining diplomats.

Beautiful.

The Rokumeikan opened its doors in 1883.

It was built to stand as a beacon of Western culture and customs

at a time when Japan was striving to modernize and catch up to its Western rivals.

Records show that social gatherings and balls were held here practically every night.

- So that's what the balls were like.
- Yes.

But the country had just emerged from a long period of isolation,

and many conservatives were conflicted about the rapid push for Westernization.

The era of the Rokumeikan lasted just four years.

The Rokumeikan was open for just 4 years.

Nonetheless, this was likely the first area in Japan

to embrace modernization.

Later, theaters and other venues started opening up and drawing crowds.

Kailene, please enjoy taking in the local sights today.

I'm excited to go discover them!

Our next location is the Imperial Hotel right here.

The Imperial Hotel was located right next to the Rokumeikan

and has a lot of history, or so I hear.

I'm excited to see more.

Hello!

We're greeted by Hamada Iori, the hotel's public relations manager.

Wow. What an impressive space. You can feel the history.

Thank you.

Tell me about the hotel.

The Imperial Hotel opened here in Hibiya in 1890.

The government had it built as part of its efforts to promote Westernization.

The Imperial Hotel was opened after the closing of the Rokumeikan

to cater to the increasing number of overseas visitors.

Who came to the hotel?

Over on that wall you can see some of our notable guests.

So many famous faces!

There's Marilyn Monroe.

The English actor...

- Chaplin.
- Yes!

That guy there, I see him every year in that one Christmas movie...

- Danny Kaye?
- Yes!

When I was little... I had a crush on him.

The Imperial Hotel gained an international reputation

thanks to the famous modern architect Frank Lloyd Wright.

Wright designed the second-generation Imperial Hotel,

which opened its doors in 1923.

The building attracted a great deal of attention

and was beloved by many people until it saw its end in 1967.

It served not only as a place to stay, but as a venue for socializing.

The public areas were in this central wing.

The lobby, dining room, auditorium, and banquet hall.

Wright designed the central wing to function as a place for gatherings.

Wright's extraordinary design was unlike any hotel Japan had seen before,

and it was dubbed the "Jewel of the Orient."

He also designed the interior.

Part of a mural he created for the building adorns the current bar.

Hamada takes us to see a guest room that commemorates Wright's Imperial Hotel.

Wow, this is so cool!

What an impressive room.

This is the Frank Lloyd Wright Suite,

which incorporates many elements from his original design.

A ceiling fixture that evokes a Japanese paper sliding door.

Stained glass windows featuring traditional patterns.

It's a tribute to Wright's love for Japanese culture.

Wright once said something about how buildings create culture.

The building he designed helped spread new hotel culture and new trends.

It became a kind of beacon for Japan, and gained an international reputation.

I'd passed this hotel many times and I never knew that.

So it's very interesting to hear that history.

Next, Hamada offers us a peek behind the curtain into the hotel's guest services.

Amazing!

I've never seen anything like this.

It's something, isn't it? This is our laundry.

I see.

All of the staff working here are hotel employees.

That's one of the unique things about our hotel.

The Imperial Hotel was the first in Japan to open a laundry department.

The staff clean and finish garments individually, according to guests' requests.

What's more, they do basic repairs.

They even have over 200 kinds of buttons on hand,

a testament to their attention to detail.

Back in the early 20th century, overseas travel was done by ship.

The service was introduced to help guests

take care of the trunk-loads of laundry they'd accumulated.

We meet one of the staff, Sato Shohkichi.

His father also worked in the hotel's laundry department.

I'd hear stories growing up.

About how he handled the laundry of VIPs and celebrities from abroad.

Sounds glamorous!

He decided to join the hotel's team so that he could follow in his father's footsteps.

He takes great pride in the laundry service they provide.

We are not in direct contact with hotel guests.

So we treat each item of clothing as our customers.

We inspect and treat them with the utmost respect.

We apply finishing touches carefully by hand.

It's part of the hotel's tradition and legacy.

Hello.

We asked the general manager about what this storied hotel

has planned for the future.

As we go forward we will continue to cherish our century-plus history.

Our legacy of service, and also our connection to this land.

We've always been located at Uchisaiwaicho 1-chome, Hibiya.

In 2036, our main building will be reborn.

It will be the fourth incarnation of the hotel.

Our facilities will evolve, and so will our staff.

So come 2036, we envision the opening of a grand hotel.

One that offers innovative, next-generation service.

Hibiya is also known as a destination for cinema and theater lovers.

That reputation has to do with the area's history as a hub of modernization.

Now we're heading to our next location, which

is right here,

the Imperial Theatre.

I've heard a lot about it, but I'm not exactly sure what goes on inside.

And it looks really big. So I'm excited to hear a little bit more about it.

Let's go.

- Hello!
- Hi, I'm Hirano.

Our guide is Hirano Kengo,

a press officer for the entertainment company that owns the theater.

This is such a striking building!

This is the Imperial Theatre.

It originally opened in 1911 as Japan's first Western-style theater.

This is the 2nd-generation building, built in 1966.

It's beloved by many as a sacred space for musicals and other productions.

May I take a look inside?

- Sure, allow me to give you a tour.
- Yes please!

Wow!

Such an impressive space. This is so exciting!

With a seating capacity of about 1,900,

it's one of the largest theaters in Tokyo.

We head upstairs to the second floor.

Look at that, beautiful!

The interior is adorned with stained glass and ornate decorations

to dazzle guests and elevate the mood.

The early 20th century in Japan was an era of big change.

The country was striving to modernize its own culture and arts.

This theater was built in Hibiya to provide a venue for stage productions of all kinds.

The theater played a vital role in the history of opera in Japan.

It was the first commercial venue in the country

to stage the opera "La Traviata."

Interesting!

The theater evolved with the times,

providing the general public with popular entertainment of all kinds.

- There's a painting I want to show you.
- Oh?

- This is it here.
- It's lovely!

Notice anything?

It says "Lawrence of Arabia." Isn't that a movie?

That' right.

In the 1960s, TVs were just starting to become common in people's homes.

The theater provided something unique: film screenings in an auditorium.

Movie screenings at a stage theater!

Yes. Apparently, they were a big draw.

Today the theater continues to attract audiences

with the latest musicals and other popular productions that reflect the times.

Comedies, musicals, opera, films...

Throughout the venue's history,

it's presented entertainment that meets the demands of the times.

Next, we head to the heart of Hibiya, which is home to a number of other theaters.

You guys getting this? There's Godzilla up there!

- There's Godzilla up there!
- Yes.

What is this place?

This is Hibiya Godzilla Square.

I didn't know that!

Released 70 years ago,

the monster movie "Godzilla" gave birth to a worldwide phenomenon.

The company that developed the film is headquartered here in Hibiya.

The founder of that company, Kobayashi Ichizo,

played a key role in shaping the local history.

Tell me about Ichizo.

He was involved in many businesses.

Railways, department stores, ballparks, theaters, cinema, and more.

That's the thing about Kobayashi.

He was involved not only in businesses related to people's daily lives,

but also in cultural projects.

Kobayashi took great interest in the Hibiya area,

which was home to the Imperial Theatre.

Starting in the 1930s,

he built a series of venues, including the Tokyo Takarazuka Theater,

the Nihon Gekijo Theater, the Hibiya Movie Theater,

and the Yurakuza Theater.

At Hibiya's peak, it was home to 22 entertainment halls.

Kobayashi's passion for the arts lives on.

Hibiya is the main venue for the Tokyo International Film Festival,

which is one of Asia's largest events showcasing cinema from around the world.

This place is packed with entertainment.

I think Tokyo, and Hibiya especially, is a town of cinema and theater,

alongside places like New York and London.

We continue to put entertainment out into the world.

In that sense we hope to raise Hibiya's international profile.

Next, we visit Hibiya Park,

an urban oasis that is celebrating its 120th anniversary.

- Hello!
- Hi!

Kosaka Ayano is the president of a Western-style restaurant

that has been at the park since it first opened.

It's so wonderful to have this big park in the middle of central Tokyo.

It feels refreshing out here.

It may not be as big as New York's Central Park.

But it's a great place to cool off in the summer, when it's hot.

You've been coming here a long time?

Yes. Since I was a kid, I'd come here for all sorts of occasions.

I've spent the majority of my life here in this park.

How wonderful!

Hibiya Park was opened in 1903

as Japan's first public park based on a Western-style design.

So Japan had no Western-style parks up until then.

The concept didn't exist.

The idea of a space that was open to the public 24/7.

So the park was designed with three key features.

Western flowers, Western music, and Western-influenced cuisine.

Those three features define Hibiya Park.

Let's start with the flowers.

The grounds were planted with beds of tulips, pansies, and other varieties

that were unfamiliar in Japan at the time.

They became one of the park's main attractions.

Right now, it's fall.

There are cosmos flowers and some roses in bloom.

It's such a nice atmosphere.

Next up, music.

Military bands gave free concerts in the park's open-air music hall.

For many attendees, it was their first time hearing Western instruments

like trumpets and drums live.

Oh, wow. Like, it would be really nice to sit outside

and enjoy this wonderful weather and listen to some free music.

Concert halls weren't as accessible.

They were considered fancy and expensive.

But here, anyone was free to enter and enjoy music and culture.

It was a public space.

The park also boasts a larger open-air amphitheater

where countless artists have shaped the history of outdoor concerts in Japan.

After taking in the flowers and music, you'll likely be hungry.

- Yes, I've been meaning to ask...
- OK, let's go!

Lead the way!

Last but not least, Western-influenced cuisine.

At the center of the park is this historic restaurant.

Their signature dish?

Beef curry, which has been a fan favorite since they first opened.

But before we sit down to eat, a detour.

Kosaka takes us to a spot that played an essential role for restaurant customers.

What's this?

Notice the interesting shape.

Right, hmm...

Water comes out from here.

In the early 20th century, guests came in horse-drawn carriages.

- Horses!
- Yes!

While the guests dined, their horses would rest here.

This is a drinking fountain for horses.

I've never seen anything like this!

At the time, Western-style cuisine was seen as trendy and posh.

So people made an occasion of coming down here to the park.

Here is our curry. Please enjoy.

Thank you, looks fantastic! Here I go!

Delicious!

Japanese curry is really just such a comfort food for me.

It's interesting because it's always seen as something foreign,

but it's something that's very distinctly Japanese, and very delicious.

A lot of time and care goes into this dish.

We simmer the ingredients for about 4 days.

So it contains many vegetables, but they've melted into the curry.

It creates a pleasantly mild flavor.

That was wonderful.

Thank you so much.

This restaurant was opened by Kosaka's great-grandfather 120 years ago.

Originally a chef of Japanese cuisine,

he was selected to open a Western-style restaurant

to coincide with the creation of Hibiya Park.

Here in Japan, Western-style dishes were adapted to suit Japanese tastes.

You won't find the same food overseas.

Right.

This historic restaurant holds a special place in the hearts of its customers.

Kosaka says she hopes to continue serving up quality cuisine in Hibiya Park.

Japan has many delicious ingredients and rich food culture.

I think of this place as a stage where we can offer our take on those things.

So we will continue to do that while also treasuring our history.

I believe that's the role of our restaurant.

Hibiya is currently undergoing wide-scale redevelopment,

scheduled for completion in 2037.

That includes plans for pedestrian bridges

that will provide smooth access to this green oasis.

There are big things on the horizon for this district in the heart of Tokyo.

Hibiya. It's an area of Tokyo

that I think people consider to be the city center.

It's bustling. There are businesses.

And that impression isn't wrong.

But through today's experiences, I was able to learn

that not only is there new culture, but there's a lot of history in the area.

From the parks to the hotels to the theaters,

it's a place where people come to gather, long ago, and still today.

I'm very excited to come back to Hibiya again and experience this once more.