Creating an Ethical Society with Mushrooms: Indonesia

Mycelium leather is a new material developed in Indonesia from mushrooms and agricultural waste. There is now an attempt to create an "ethical society" by mass-producing it using Japanese technology.

Mycelium leather, a new material
Chair made of mushroom mycelium
Shoes made of new materials
Mushroom mycelium culture facility in Indonesia

Transcript

00:08

This episode of Sharing the Future presents...

00:14

How did you find it?

00:16

- I was like looking around.
- Yeah.

00:20

...a project that opens up the way to the future with new technologies expanding the potential of mushrooms.

00:30

A mushroom is not just the part you
can see.

00:34

That is the final form trying to
reproduce in a flower-like state.

00:39

The greater part of a mushroom
is spread

00:42

inside the soil or trees as mycelium.

00:46

This is the mycelium of a particular kind of mushroom whose identity must remain confidential.

00:52

The technology that makes use of it is attracting attention as a way to help protect the global environment.

00:59

This is actually the Mylea that we just harvested.

01:05

It was made pure from mycelium which is the root part of mushroom, a strong fiber.

01:12

And we grow them by using agricultural waste after nutrients of the mushroom to grow.

01:20

This is mycelium leather, a natural man-made leather.

01:26

It's characterized by its low environmental impact compared to genuine leather,

01:30

as it requires a shorter production time and doesn't involve tanning.

01:37

Moreover, as a material, it features the same strength and flexibility as animal skins.

01:46

This new material is already being used for shoes and bags...

01:50

and applications are expanding.

01:52

It's even being considered for car seats.

01:59

This mycelium leather shocked me
at first sight.

02:02

Food was the only use for mushrooms
that I'd ever thought of.

02:07

As a mushroom dealer, I was very
interested

02:11

in offering mushrooms to all kinds of
industries.

02:17

Today, new initiatives for using this natural material are underway in Indonesia and Japan.

02:25

For us, ethical business is all about the holistic approach to its business.

02:30

It's all about not only looking for profit, while I don't care about the environment and the people.

02:38

And if we can create like the greater environmental impact,

02:42

we can actually make our business sustain longer.

02:49

Innovations developed in Indonesia and Japan's proud mushroom cultivation technology are changing the world.

03:09

Nagano Prefecture is a major producer of mushrooms in Japan,

03:13

boasting an annual production of 150,000 tons.

03:20

A Nagano-based trading company specializing in mushrooms is now teamed up with an Indonesian start-up company

03:27

to create a project to help realize an ethical society.

03:33

This room has just been renovated.

03:36

New tables and chairs will arrive at
the end of this month.

03:40

This will be a business meeting room.

03:45

Inui Keita is a core member of the project.

03:50

In 2022, his company purchased a long-abandoned inn, and it's currently being renovated.

03:57

They have various interesting ideas to play with.

04:00

In fact, it's well known that a samurai warrior's residence once stood here.

04:06

You can see Mt. Asama from here.

04:10

We're planning to convert this room
into an office

04:14

and rent it out to a local venture
company in the future.

04:21

As their office, Inui and his team are actually using this refurbished old storehouse,

04:28

which is detached from the main building.

04:32

Our office is very simple.

04:35

We do mainly marketing and
consulting, so we don't need

04:38

a lot of office furniture or fixtures.

04:42

In 2017, Inui set up a trading company specializing in mushrooms for overseas markets.

04:48

He is now actively promoting Japan's mushroom cultivation technology from Nagano to the rest of the world,

04:54

focusing on machines that improve production efficiency.

04:59

We publish a technical journal
about Japanese mushrooms.

05:04

It's all in English.

05:05

Mushroom cultivation is a niche field
so information isn't spread widely.

05:10

Utilizing our farmers' network,
we promote

05:13

Japanese mushroom cultivation
techniques overseas.

05:18

Through our activities, we hope
foreign countries

05:22

will find Japanese technology
excellent and want to introduce it.

05:27

Just before the Covid pandemic,

05:28

Inui and his colleagues contacted an Indonesian start-up company that possessed mycelium leather technology.

05:37

The move was triggered by company co-owner Obuchi Kota,

05:41

who was looking for new ways to boost the domestic mushroom industry.

05:47

As we did research on the Internet,

05:50

we found mycelium leather
especially innovative and intriguing.

05:56

Cisarua is a hilly area at an altitude of 1,000 meters located 150 kilometers from Jakarta, the capital of Indonesia.

06:07

In 2015, a start-up company was born in this farming village to develop a business using local materials.

06:18

Leading the product development is one of the co-owners, Ronaldiaz Hartantyo.

06:26

So, we started with agricultural waste.

06:30

This is sawdust or agricultural waste that we use.

06:34

And then after this, we put mushroom spores inside fungi spores.

06:40

It will harden like this. This is fully colonized.

06:44

As you can see here, the inside is actually similar like this.

06:48

Then after this, we can harvest the outer layer of the mycelium, into this.

07:00

We were privileged to observe part of the production process of mycelium leather.

07:07

We will take the outer surface of this mushroom block.

07:13

Mycelium leather is made by peeling the surface of blocks made from mushroom mycelium,

07:19

which is tightly bound to agricultural waste such as sawdust.

07:29

This is the harvest.

07:34

They like to say that rather than "manufacturing" mycelium leather,

07:38

they are "cultivating" it, so this process is always referred to as "harvesting."

07:47

During the six-week production period,

07:49

the product undergoes various other processes before completion including drying.

07:55

It's produced with an overwhelmingly lower environmental impact than genuine leather.

08:01

In addition, this block, called "the medium," which remains after the mycelium leather is harvested,

08:09

is processed and compressed for use as another material.

08:16

Our first operation of the materials is actually building materials.

08:21

So that's why our first operation is actually a similar like this.

08:27

A structural mushroom material which is hard but lightweight.

08:35

This chair produced in collaboration with an architectural company is 100% made of mushroom mycelium.

08:42

Weighing only 3 kilograms, it has the strength to withstand a weight of 600 kilograms.

08:50

It's a truly magic material.

08:53

Simply by changing the manufacturing method,

08:55

it can be turned into flexible leather or a robust construction material.

09:02

So how was such a new material utilizing mushroom mycelium born?

09:09

A clue can be found in an Indonesian traditional foodstuff.

09:15

Have you got any "tempeh?"

09:19

Indonesian traditional food similar with our materials.

09:25

It's spongy.

09:28

"Tempeh" is an Indonesian foodstuff made from fermented soybeans.

09:34

It's characterized by its block shape with interwoven layers of white mycelium and beans.

09:39

It has no odor and a light taste, and it's widely used as a cooking ingredient.

09:50

This is a similar concept that we use for the materials.

09:53

Beginning of everything!

09:56

Inui and his colleagues believe that mycelium leather, the new material created in Indonesia,

10:02

will help to save the Japanese mushroom industry.

10:06

I think the Japanese mushroom industry
is at a turning point.

10:11

Currently, some companies are pulling
out of the mushroom-related business.

10:20

But from our point of view, that would
be a real waste.

10:24

In the mycelium leather making process,

10:27

for 60% of the hardware side,
such as the factory,

10:31

regular mushroom cultivation facilities
can be used.

10:35

In fact, the number of mushroom producers in Japan has decreased by 70%

10:40

over the past 20 years due to price competition and a lack of successors.

10:47

Mycelium leather production could provide a great opportunity for the dwindling number of mushroom producers.

10:55

Producing mycelium for mycelium leather can be achieved by using growing racks not currently in use.

11:02

This can be a great benefit for mushroom producers.

11:09

I see so much potential.

11:12

Inevitably, there are times when
rooms can't be used for cultivation.

11:17

If we can use such facilities which are
not being used,

11:22

we would like to take on the challenge.

11:28

Meanwhile, an Indonesian start-up company is trying to help solve local social issues

11:33

by means of mycelium leather production.

11:39

The company started with five founding members, including Ronaldiaz, now has 60 staff members.

11:49

Local villagers are employed in the factory, and expectations are high

11:53

for more job creation in this region with few job opportunities.

11:59

Working hours are from 9 am to 5 pm for both the researchers and production staff.

12:12

In the company led by Ronaldiaz, nearly half of the employees are women.

12:20

Indonesian women are still often prevented from entering society,

12:23

especially in farming villages where old values remain strong.

12:31

Against that background, the company has created a place for women to work with this project.

12:36

Sorting blocks for the next process.

12:40

- What are you doing here?
- Sorting blocks for the next process.

12:45

This one has white mycelium all over,
so it's in usable condition.

12:49

Rina Karlina works as an operator for the production team.

12:55

Being able to work here is a blessing.

12:59

We're so grateful that we could build
a house of our own.

13:03

Completed three years ago, Rina's house is about a 10-minute walk from the office.

13:10

When we paid a visit, we immediately noticed an object bearing the name of the company.

13:19

I like it very much.

13:24

Using scrap wood from the factory, Rina made it with her carpenter husband,

13:28

who in fact built their house.

13:34

My husband says it's up to me whether
to work or not.

13:41

Rina is a mother of two, a 17-year-old son and a 9-year-old daughter.

13:45

She says they still keep her hands full.

13:49

I want to help my husband and increase
our income as much as possible.

13:55

Women's participation in society is one form of ethical behavior that aims for a sustainable working environment.

14:08

Ronaldiaz majored in architecture at university.

14:12

When carrying out preservation work on Indonesian traditional buildings as a class project,

14:17

he came to believe that stabilizing the livelihood of villagers was the first step toward proper preservation.

14:27

To launch a business that could take advantage of village resources and technology,

14:32

he focused on biomaterials, which were gaining worldwide attention.

14:36

That's how the production of materials utilizing agricultural waste began.

14:44

Ronaldiaz has tried many types of waste that might be suitable for mycelium leather.

14:52

Sawdust, rice hulls, corn shells,
banana stalks, sugarcane bagasse...

14:59

More than 30 items.

15:03

And he now uses oil palm trees that have been felled.

15:11

Because if we want to produce in large quantity, we need the consistent amount.

15:19

Indonesia is one of the world's leading producers of palm oil.

15:24

The disposal of old oil palm trees that have reached the end of their life

15:28

and the squeezed waste of fruit produced in great quantities by large-scale plants has become an issue.

15:37

This kind of waste that we use is actually, to farmers, they usually don't use it any more.

15:44

Like usually some of the agricultural waste they burn it and then turn into the biomass, and then for energy.

15:52

However, for this one, in the plantation,

15:55

usually they burn it in the open air and then the smoke goes to Singapore.

16:04

Ronaldiaz believed that the spread of their project could help to solve his country's environmental problems.

16:13

They were equipped with innovations that could impact the world and the raw materials needed.

16:20

What was needed next was the technology to enable mass production of the new materials.

16:26

It was at this point that Inui and his colleagues contacted them.

16:31

Adi Reza Nugroho, a co-founder of start-up, witnessed firsthand the Japanese cultivation techniques in Nagano.

16:39

I'm quite impressed how they grow, or cultivate the mushrooms.

16:43

They are using the technology, automation system, can help the production, skill, seamlessly.

16:51

So, it inspired me to do more collaborations with them

16:55

because we also want us to scale the production using the same equipment that they have.

17:05

As a result, a joint venture consisting of one Indonesian company

17:09

and three Japanese companies, was established in July 2022.

17:17

Their first task was to prepare to market mycelium leather in Japan.

17:24

The know-how on the production of mycelium leather was introduced to Japan from Indonesia.

17:33

Will it show up? It's pretty big.

17:37

60 cm x 60 cm.

17:39

This is the largest size we're planning
to sell right now!

17:44

This is mycelium leather made in Japan.

17:49

Inui says he wants people to enjoy the unusual patterns that appear on the surface.

17:56

It's a primordia formation,
the so-called "eye of the mushroom."

18:01

The unique patterns are in fact the sign of the mushroom trying to grow.

18:06

By changing environmental factors,

18:08

we can adjust the percentage
of these patterns.

18:13

Many companies send us inquiries.

18:16

As expected, many people think a lot
about sustainability.

18:22

Mycelium leather is drawing attention
as a truly new sustainable material.

18:31

World-class fashion brands are also now working on development,

18:34

and the mycelium leather market is expanding.

18:40

The joint venture is currently improving a Japan-based mass production system

18:45

ready for implementing full-scale sales in the Japanese market.

18:51

The building has changed a lot.

18:56

A mycelium leather production plant is now being constructed by repurposing a disused city facility.

19:03

The company says that once it is completed,

19:06

mass production will be possible to meet the anticipated future demand for mycelium leather.

19:12

Construction's proceeding on schedule.

19:16

Cultivators of the mycelium who participate in the joint venture

19:20

have high expectations for the capabilities of the new plant.

19:26

Not limiting ourselves to producing
mushrooms as food,

19:30

we want to try new developments
in areas with potential.

19:35

In any event, we want to show the world
what is good in Japan.

19:47

The joint venture is preparing to mass produce mycelium leather not only in Japan but also in Indonesia.

19:55

The cityscapes in South and
Southeast Asia are similar.

20:01

I visited here one year ago,
in September 2022.

20:05

During the last year, we've focused
on introducing

20:09

the technology Indonesia possesses.

20:12

As Japanese factories start operating,
the purpose of this visit is to find out

20:18

what direction Indonesia's
global strategy will take,

20:21

and to coordinate how

20:24

the Japanese side establishes
its domestic and global strategies.

20:44

Japanese technology has already been introduced in some of the Indonesian factories.

20:51

One of these is a clean room for the cultivation of mycelium,

20:55

essential for the production of mycelium leather.

21:00

We make mycelium ourselves.

21:04

Certain control is needed to avoid
the mycelium depleting.

21:10

A portion of the grown mycelium is cut off and grown further.

21:18

The key here is to avoid contaminating the room where the work is done with germs.

21:25

Thorough measures are taken to prevent any influx via clothing or the air conditioning.

21:33

A special filter's placed here
and the air is let in from here.

21:38

No air comes in directly from outside.

21:40

It all comes in through here.

21:44

Japanese know-how, including the pollution control measures essential for the stable production of mycelium leather,

21:52

is a foothold for increased production.

21:56

This is the same also in Japan facility part of the HP AC system.

22:03

Robbi Zidna Ilman is a chief operating officer of the manufacturing department.

22:08

Then, the result is very good.

22:11

Because, in first half, we get the contamination more than 50%.

22:17

Now, the end of this year, we can reduce the contamination below 30%.

22:28

Robbi is looking forward to further improvements in production efficiency by Japanese technology.

22:36

The next future.

22:37

We're expecting we can maintain the contamination lower than 10%.

22:44

I think now we already set up our plant in Japan, right?

22:48

So, it might be better before you start construction in your plant in the future,

22:53

you come to Japan to see how we built the inside.

22:58

That may be helpful for you.

23:02

After we did some trials with MYCL Japan and here in Indonesia,

23:08

now we've become more confident to scale the facility

23:12

so we plan to increase the capacity by using the automation system,

23:18

better clean room, using Japan standard.

23:21

The number of friends who support the mycelium leather project is increasing.

23:27

Aparna Bhatnagar Saxena is one of them.

23:31

She supports the social advancement of women living in farming villages

23:35

through the production and sale of traditional handicrafts.

23:39

She is working with Ronaldiaz and his team to develop products.

23:44

What I like about them is young entrepreneurs started by experimenting locally.

23:50

And the fact that you are using the waste to create something that is eco-friendly.

23:55

And I am an environmentalist, so for me, I love them.

24:02

Ronaldiaz and his staff are preparing for an event to be held in Jakarta.

24:12

What they have in their hands is a new material for structural use.

24:18

The theme is "Thinking about Nature."

24:21

So, this is material from nature, so we're showcasing the material.

24:26

I guess that's one thing for sure because this is another material, not many people knows about it.

24:33

That's why we need to raise awareness about this on the market and the designers as well.

24:41

They are also putting a great deal of effort into promoting the use of the new materials.

24:50

One week later, objects made by the team are put on display at the event.

25:03

Many people are very interested in the products of the team.

25:06

Visitors to the venue include Indonesian architects and people from the fashion industry.

25:16

I couldn't believe these were made
from mushrooms.

25:20

Concrete's used for these formworks,
but this is sturdy and very lightweight.

25:27

It's amazing to discover we can create
these new materials.

25:32

I'm a student of architecture.

25:38

Such a thin, hard material can be
created from mushrooms...

25:44

It's a revolution in the
construction industry.

25:51

At the venue, Ronaldiaz is being asked many questions.

25:59

MYCL's objective is actually to provide high-quality sustainable materials through by technology

26:06

by utilizing agricultural waste and collaborating with the local community for a better future generation.

26:13

And that's because we believe mushroom can save the world.

26:20

December, 2023.

26:24

In Nagano, the new factory that will serve as the production base for Japanese mycelium leather launches operations.

26:33

This is the entrance to the inside of
the new plant.

26:38

Mushroom cultivation technology cultivated over many years in Japan

26:43

and innovations born in Indonesia have joined hands to share the future,

26:48

and mass production of the new materials has begun.

26:54

The first harvest at the new factory is scheduled in one month.

27:00

Being mushroom dealers, we love
Nature.

27:04

We have a great desire to live with
Nature.

27:07

We like mountains and rivers.

27:10

Using mushroom cultivation techniques
we can produce mycelium leather.

27:17

It's a new material of truly natural
origin, so I want you to hold it

27:22

and feel even a little that you're living
in harmony with Nature.

27:27

I want to see that kind of society.

27:30

Because we are also part of Nature.

27:35

Working toward the realization of an ethical society,

27:39

their challenge with innovation continues.