Knitting the Future

Maro Kuratani knits scarves and other items with surplus yarn, using threads of varying color and thickness. She says yarn is the ultimate eco-friendly material as reknitting is always an option.

Surplus yarn from knitwear manufacturing
Using surplus yarn and an old knitting machine, Maro Kuratani makes a scarf
Kuratani's scarves are especially popular with young women
Beyond scarves, surplus yarn is also used for hats, bags and a variety of accessories

Transcript

00:00

Since ancient times, the Japanese have believed that a life force resides in all creations.

00:12

Valuing and caring for the things we use, a "Zero Waste Life."

00:20

Pointing the way to better living for a new era.

00:26

Through blending and other methods, even "useless" yarn can be beautiful.

00:35

And I feel that I have a responsibility to help realize that potential.

01:03

Setagaya, suburban Tokyo.

01:08

A small studio in a residential area.

01:30

Here, Maro Kuratani sits alone, knitting a scarf.

01:40

As I knit, I envision them bringing happiness to those who wear them.

01:50

Ribbons, butterflies, plants and other motifs are knit into the scarves with colorful yarn.

01:57

Kuratani's creations have a cute, pop-art sensibility that appeals to young women.

02:08

The materials she uses are distinctive.

02:15

The room is lined with yarns of varying color and thickness,

02:21

all in fact once destined for disposal.

02:27

It's mainly surplus yarn from factories. None of them are exactly the same.

02:38

I purchase these remainders from manufacturers to use in my work.

02:48

Most knitwear is mass produced in textile factories.

02:52

But this leads to large quantities of surplus yarn.

03:02

Say you have an order for 100 pieces...

03:05

Yarn is purchased by the kilo, so it's impossible to buy only what's needed.

03:17

There will always be some left over.

03:20

Since the color and thread are specified by order, it's hard to find other uses.

03:30

At Ando's factory, from the roughly 60,000 pieces of knitwear produced annually,

03:36

anywhere from 3 to 400 kilos of yarn go unused.

03:41

Five years ago, after learning of Kuratani's efforts, he provided her with some of their excess yarn.

03:51

Even in small amounts, eliminating, or rather reducing surplus yarn waste

03:57

is a big help to our company.

04:01

And if such efforts spread, maybe we could solve the problem for good.

04:12

Surplus yarn varies widely in thickness.

04:15

The data used for each one is different, so it's not suited to machine production.

04:23

But by twining threads together by hand, regardless of the thickness of the yarn,

04:29

I can get the size that's needed.

04:36

Kuratani is also particular about her tools.

04:53

This is a home knitting machine, it doesn't require any electricity.

04:59

Way back, maybe every home had one.

05:04

They were tools mothers used to knit clothes for their children.

05:13

In the 1950s and 60s, there was a craze for such home knitting machines across Japan,

05:19

as it was far cheaper to make clothing than to buy it.

05:26

However, in modern Japan there's not much use for them, and they're increasingly discarded.

05:33

Aware of this, Kuratani searched online and bought one as soon as she found it.

05:39

I had only knit by hand before, but a home machine allows for faster production.

05:46

Speed is vital for making items to sell, so I thought it would be a useful tool.

05:52

The fact that it needs no electricity also makes me feel good using it.

06:00

The environmental impact is minimal.

06:05

The yarn is wrapped around the needles and knit one row at a time.

06:22

By repeating this process, a scarf is created.

06:31

Now that I've knit four rows normally, I'll add these weights and continue.

06:49

But after a few passes, work comes to a halt.

06:57

The yarn is jammed.

07:06

I messed up, so I have to undo it.

07:13

Even with mistakes, the yarn never goes to waste; one reason Kuratani chose knitting.

07:21

Yarn can always be reknit, so it's the ultimate eco-friendly material.

07:38

At this pace, the scarf is complete in about half a day.

07:45

If I had to make 100 of the same color, then I wouldn't enjoy the work.

07:53

I've always loved making things, ever since my student days.

08:02

Discovering the appeal of knitting at fashion school,

08:05

she found employment as a knitwear designer for an apparel maker.

08:11

But mass-production and mass-disposal were the norm in the industry,

08:16

and seeing the items she'd designed thrown away was a real shock.

08:23

They're not made by pushing a button. They take time and trouble to create.

08:29

Knowing they'd end up as trash, I just couldn't be part of it.

08:36

This wasn't how I wanted to do it, and so I decided to quit my job.

08:50

With that, she set out on her own.

08:53

And, instead of new, she'd use surplus yarn for her creations.

09:02

She says using such material has a special joy of its own.

09:12

Normally, making something yellow, the yarn is all the same shade.

09:18

With surplus yarn no two yellows are the same, so it's always a surprise.

09:22

You end up with something original. I use this intentionally in my designs.

09:37

Once off the machine, the rest is done by hand.

10:08

All done.

10:14

I'm so happy! It's rewarding.

10:22

Even if you see it every day, will it still look just as cute?

10:28

I put a lot of thought into that.

11:03

As well as scarves, she also knits items like hats, bags and tissue box covers from surplus yarn.

11:29

Today she's selling her wares at a department store in central Osaka.

11:38

- Maybe like this?
- So cute!

11:47

It looks good from every angle.

11:52

- It's all discarded material?
- Yes, mostly factory surplus.

12:00

- Even this sparkly stuff?
- Yes, everything.

12:05

There's the design, but I also like that it's made with surplus yarn.

12:14

I love the overall brand concept.

12:20

The patterns and use of color are beyond any amateur's ability.

12:27

And all using surplus yarn.

12:42

In hopes of sharing her love for zero-waste knitting, Kuratani is also offering a workshop.

12:56

Now we'll begin knitting from here. We start with one stitch at a time.

13:02

It should be like this here.

13:11

The workshop also aims to promote the use of the old home knitting machines that are slowly disappearing.

13:22

Maybe they had grandma's old one, or one at their parent's house.

13:29

But people don't know how to use them, so they end up being thrown away.

13:35

This is a chance to prevent that.

13:40

- That's good! You've got it!
- I think so.

13:47

- All done.
- Thank you!

13:52

- You did it! Lovely!
- Thank you!

13:56

It's really cute!

14:04

Through the joy of knitting, more and more people will use cast-offs and surplus to make things,

14:11

reducing overall waste as a result.

14:15

This is Kuratani's vision of the future.

14:19

I start from the assumption that people want fashionable things.

14:24

Customers will be attracted to our products because they are cute,

14:29

and through that, naturally expand their environmental awareness.

14:35

That's the brand I hope to create.