Preserving the Seasons

Culinary researcher Yokoyama Takako lives in a mountain region. She cans and ferments local produce to make it through the depths of winter; work supported by nature's bounty and ancestral wisdom.

To make it through its long winters, the Shinshu region has a tradition of food preservation
Culinary researcher Yokoyama Takako
Making pickled nozawana, a Shinshu delicacy
A dish made with miso, a fermented food

Transcript

00:04

Since ancient times, the Japanese have believed that a life force resides in all creations.

00:13

Valuing and caring for the things we use, a "Zero Waste Life."

00:21

Pointing the way to better living for a new era.

00:26

No food should ever go to waste.

00:32

I believe this way of thinking is
where preservation comes from.

01:02

Shinshu, now Nagano Prefecture, in central Japan, is surrounded by vast mountain ranges.

01:15

In this land enveloped by nature, a woman leads a life that values the wisdom of the past.

01:25

Culinary researcher, Yokoyama Takako.

01:33

She specializes in the traditional preserved foods of the Shinshu region.

01:41

In nearly every corner of her home you'll find containers full of all kinds of preserved foods.

01:50

This is apple vinegar.

01:55

Cut apples soaked in vinegar,
that's how you make it.

02:02

They're at their best when fresh,
but anything left over can be

02:09

pickled or preserved as another
way to enjoy them.

02:17

The altitude here is quite high.

02:22

From summer to autumn there are plenty of fruits and vegetables,

02:29

but long harsh winters mean many days where the temperatures are below freezing.

02:36

Growing season is only half the year.

02:42

So, local wisdom says that whatever
is grown is highly valued and preserved

02:49

to be eaten when nothing can be grown.

02:55

Autumn ends in late November, and the long winter is nearly here.

03:08

A nearby farmer is here to deliver some freshly harvested vegetables.

03:17

It's a good crop.

03:20

Thank you so much.

03:30

A Shinshu specialty: the leafy vegetable known as "nozawana."

03:37

The biggest challenge for me is that
she wants these fine roots left intact.

03:48

Nozawana is usually harvested by cutting the stalks, but these are pulled out at the root.

03:57

She wants to eat the whole plant.
Seeing it that way makes me happy.

04:02

I'm grateful for what she's doing,
and I have a lot of respect for her.

04:13

In preparation for the coming winter, she gets started right away on preserving the nozawana by pickling them.

04:26

In the old days, they washed them
in a clear mountain stream.

04:38

The nozawana is laid out in a wooden barrel, and sprinkled with salt.

04:56

To help squeeze out excess water, stone weights are placed on top.

05:02

Now, all that's left to do is wait.

05:08

Even for such a simple task, the wisdom of the past plays a role.

05:16

These barrels came from my mother.

05:21

They have good breathability,
changing shape with the season,

05:27

so they make better tasting pickles.

05:32

It's a little bit of ancestral wisdom
that I'm helping to preserve.

05:40

Pickles made in this way will remain edible for over six months.

06:01

Delicious.

06:05

Since childhood, I've always loved them;
something I couldn't live without.

06:14

These things from the place I grew up
are always with me, even now.

06:27

Now it's time for Yokoyama to make lunch.

06:36

She goes out to her home's storehouse.

06:43

All sorts of locally-grown produce.

06:46

Properly stored, quality won't deteriorate over time.

06:54

Daikon radishes can be used for
"oden" stew, simmered, or grated.

07:02

And there's...

07:07

Shadow Queen purple potatoes,
and some green onions.

07:15

About all I need to make it through winter.

07:20

The rice straw above serves as insulation.

07:24

Her storehouse is basically a big refrigerator, that prevents food from spoiling,

07:29

while also keeping it from freezing no matter how cold it gets outside.

07:46

She's preparing a traditional local dish, passed down from long ago.

07:56

An essential element is this leaf from her garden.

08:06

Known as "hoba," its key feature is its resistance to flame.

08:15

First "miso," a fermented foodstuff, is spread on the leaf.

08:30

Then chicken and vegetables are added, and it's grilled over an open flame for ten minutes.

08:38

The aroma of the charred hoba leaf blends with the flavors of the miso and vegetables, with delicious results.

08:49

It's a real wintertime dish.
You can keep warm while it cooks.

08:56

And miso is an important preserved food.

09:04

These local dishes, full of Shinshu food preservation wisdom, are ready to eat.

09:11

Called, "hoba miso," this dish serves as the main course.

09:19

Miso soup made with locally grown daikon radish and nappa cabbage.

09:27

Burdock root, harvested in autumn and preserved, simmered in a soy-sauce base.

09:34

Three different kinds of pickles,

09:36

nappa cabbage, daikon radish, and of course the nozawana,

09:41

each is seasoned differently; a clever way to keep the tastebuds from getting bored over the long winter.

09:48

There's a joy in having something
from that moment preserved.

09:53

Knowing it's here is a feeling I love.

09:57

You also discover a different side,
a new flavor, which is fascinating.

10:09

Yokoyama does her best to create simple, easy-to-follow recipes,

10:14

with commonly available ingredients and seasonings, suitable for any household.

10:23

In recent years she's written books and given talks to spread the word about the beauty of traditional preserved foods.

10:36

Her philosophy of love for nature's bounty also finds expression in the kitchen utensils she uses.

10:45

Her cutting board was made with scrap wood from locally harvested timber.

10:52

Cutting local produce on local timber
provides a sense of comfort.

10:59

There's a special joy to cooking.

11:07

Pot stands to prevent the table from scorching.

11:15

They were made with material from her own garden.

11:20

This is my favorite way to enjoy
a fine autumn day.

11:28

I love to play in the garden.

11:36

For Yokoyama, the soil of Shinshu is life itself.

11:44

For as long as she can remember, she's lived her life surrounded by nature's bounty.

11:50

My parents sent me out to pick flowers.

11:55

When spring came I'd gather mugwort,
and later on, horsetail.

12:01

Living like that was natural.
Nature is everything, after all.

12:08

Growing up like that shaped the way
I see the world and my sense of self.

12:24

Tonight's dinner features a favorite taste from her childhood: a Japanese classic, oden stew.

12:35

Daikon radish from her storehouse:

12:37

unpeeled, they're used as is.

12:44

To hold the fried tofu she uses branches from a tree in her garden.

12:53

I learned to make this from my mother.

12:58

The flavor came from my parents,
but the toppings are my own touch.

13:14

Warming the body and the heart, it's perfect for winter's chill.

13:20

Time to eat.

14:01

Preserved foods are eco-friendly,
but they're also just plain good.

14:07

And by preserving them once again,

14:13

passing time and the changing seasons
will make them even more delicious.

14:20

This is best, as it also aids fermentation.

14:26

That's my biggest recommendation.