Preserving Lacquerware Beyond the Quake

We follow UK-born Suzanne Ross - a lacquerware artisan in Wajima - in her efforts to recover after this January's quake, and meet Chinese Tomoe Setsubai who runs a Japanese confectionery in Yokohama.

Suzanne is out for a walk with her husband Clive and their dog Cookie
Suzanne gives one of her customers a hug
Suzanne began to craft lacquerware once again
From early in the morning, Setsubai prepares her original Japanese sweets with the wish for many people to enjoy them

Transcript

00:04

On January first this year, a massive earthquake struck Ishikawa Prefecture, including the city of Wajima.

00:14

The region is famous for its lacquerware.

00:20

Elegant and durable, Wajima-nuri is among the best in Japan.

00:28

However, most workshops were damaged by the quake, threatening the survival of this traditional craft.

00:40

This lacquerware artist has been living in Wajima for over thirty years.

00:49

Suzanne Ross from the UK.

00:55

I love lacquerware, and I want to preserve Japanese lacquer culture.

01:04

She too lost her home and studio in the disaster.

01:13

But Suzanne is determined to keep the tradition of lacquerware alive.

01:18

Here's a closer look at her efforts.

01:28

Nanto City in Toyama Prefecture.

01:32

It's in this town some hundred kilometers from Wajima that Suzanne lives as an evacuee.

01:45

A friend put her up in this house they weren't using.

01:48

However, she doesn't know when, or even if, she'll be able to restart her work.

02:02

I was working on these.

02:05

This broke during the quake.

02:09

Fell off a shelf onto the concrete floor.

02:15

It's damaged. It fell hard!

02:21

This is quite a chip.

02:27

It takes a year to complete a piece.

02:30

How will I be able to make a living?

02:37

I don't know.

02:44

Suzanne was born and raised in London.

02:47

While a student, she saw at an exhibition some Japanese lacquerware,

02:51

which left a strong impression on her.

02:57

The Japanese sense of beauty.

03:00

The lacquer adorned with gold and seashell...

03:06

and the lacquer's rich, deep black.

03:10

It was stunningly beautiful.

03:17

Wajima City is one of Japan's major producers of lacquerware.

03:22

The region has preserved and nurtured this crafting culture for more than five centuries.

03:28

Sturdy yet sumptuously ornate, Wajima-nuri is highly acclaimed, both in and out of Japan.

03:40

Its fabrication combines various workmanship skills,

03:44

and consists of as many as one-hundred-twenty-four steps.

03:49

Traditionally, fashioning a single Wajima-nuri piece involves the work of several artisans.

04:02

But Suzanne was determined to learn each and every part of the process, and so she did.

04:11

With innovative designs for things like bowls and accessories,

04:15

her work pushes the boundaries of tradition.

04:18

Exploring the possibilities of lacquerware, her pieces draw attention in Japan and overseas.

04:31

She met Clive in England when he was working for a major international oil firm.

04:40

Following Suzanne's wish, the two moved to Wajima.

04:43

They later got married and raised two daughters.

04:47

This was a beloved region they called home.

04:59

It was my home.

05:04

It was my paradise.

05:07

I loved it.

05:21

The couple now get by with the support of volunteers.

05:29

Among them, Takagi Norihiko has been of great assistance.

05:36

He helps them salvage and transport things from their home in Wajima,

05:40

and has been keeping a photographic record of their life as evacuees.

05:48

Suzanne and Clive really love Japan.

05:54

As a Japanese, I'm very grateful.

06:01

Today, they head to Wajima to sort through some of the things they left behind.

06:15

That landslide, it's unbelievable.

06:21

Here too.

06:32

They arrive near two old Japanese-style houses at the foot of a mountain where a landslide occurred.

06:39

On the right is their house, and Suzanne's workshop is the one on the left.

06:47

My car fell down here.

06:53

Look at this. Terrifying, isn't it?

07:02

The rear wheels were lifted off the ground.

07:10

Suzanne was in her workshop when the earthquake struck.

07:14

The tremor caused the floor to collapse.

07:25

The bridge across the river too fell down.

07:29

The house and studio can only be reached by wading through water.

07:40

Clive tries to retrieve Suzanne's tools and materials.

07:54

But the current is too strong.

07:56

This is as much as he can carry.

08:04

Suzanne had been renting a gallery in the city to showcase her work.

08:17

But as recovery from the disaster seems too far ahead, her lease had to be terminated.

08:32

She lost her only base of operations in Wajima.

08:44

If I hoped to help Wajima-nuri recover...

08:51

I thought I should keep one foot there.

08:55

I hate to have to leave Wajima like this.

09:04

About a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Wajima is Kanazawa City at the center of Ishikawa Prefecture.

09:19

In order to help the tradition of Wajima-nuri recover, Suzanne decided to rent a new workshop here.

09:30

However...

09:33

Japanese lacquer. It's expensive.

09:36

It's stuck!

09:38

It's all stuck. I can't take it out!

09:46

The lacquer that took so much effort to salvage.

09:49

Most of it is too dry to be of any use.

10:01

The road to Suzanne restarting her work is long.

10:08

She and her husband have to make an important decision.

10:15

- I'm tired.
- Yes.

10:17

Really tired.

10:24

The college where Clive teaches English was also damaged in the quake,

10:28

and will move to Tokyo for the foreseeable future.

10:37

Plates!

10:40

- Don't need any?
- I do.

10:42

- How many?
- One.

10:44

One?

10:46

Just one? OK.

10:49

Just one plate in Tokyo?

10:57

After much discussion, they decided that Clive will be going to Tokyo alone.

11:09

For the two who've been together through good and bad times in this country so far from their own,

11:16

it's a heartbreaking decision.

11:21

I'll stay in the region of lacquerware.

11:24

I want to do my part to help Wajima-nuri recover.

11:33

So, we'll have to live separately for a while.

11:40

It'd be a shame if she couldn't continue. She's worked so hard.

11:47

Really hard.

11:49

If I can contribute by earning money, I'll gladly do so.

11:57

So that she can continue.

12:02

I've so much admiration for her efforts.

12:10

The two have no choice but to live apart.

12:17

But Clive's strong wish to support his wife's work remains the same

12:21

as it was when they got married twenty-five years ago.

12:34

Suzanne's insistence on staying close to Wajima stems from her worries for the future of lacquerware.

12:42

Making Wajima-nuri is a collaboration.

12:45

Removing one step in the fabrication would put everyone else out of work.

12:51

Everyone's getting old.

12:54

Many don't have the strength to recover, and choose to retire.

13:00

I have to do all I can to support Wajima's lacquerware.

13:09

Suzanne started to accept orders for bowls.

13:13

But instead of doing them all by herself, she decided to share the work with fellow crafters.

13:29

However, many artisans who've helped her in the past were forced to close up shop -

13:34

some temporarily, others permanently.

13:42

I'm going to cry!

13:55

Maybe it's over for Wajima.

14:04

She found one craftsman who can work with her.

14:10

- I wonder if you'd do the final coating.
- Of course.

14:19

This artisan specialized in applying the final coating had been unable to work,

14:24

as the crafter who took care of the undercoating put their business on hold.

14:32

- We gotta keep going.
- Exactly!

14:36

It's useless to stay idle.

14:38

We can only start by focusing on the task at hand.

14:44

Right?

14:46

That's right.

14:52

Others too are joining in on Suzanne's efforts.

15:00

An old friend of hers holds an exhibition.

15:06

I want to help Wajima-nuri recover. I share the work with other artisans.

15:17

Here, Suzanne is accepting orders for bowls.

15:21

Each will take at least one year to complete.

15:27

- This one.
- This? OK.

15:31

She received a total of forty-one commissions.

15:38

Through Suzanne's efforts, the circle of support is growing.

15:43

Thank you!

15:48

- Thank you.
- Take care.

15:51

I'll do my best.

15:53

Don't work too hard.

15:58

Late March.

16:04

The day Clive leaves for Tokyo has come.

16:14

Add some chicken.

16:17

Cook the chicken first, then the veggies.

16:22

- Got it?
- Yes.

16:28

Your hair got so long.

16:33

The past three months have been riddled with hardships.

16:37

But together, they were able to face the difficulties.

17:14

Take care!

17:42

When will they be able to share a home again?

17:45

Neither of them knows.

18:09

Suzanne is preparing to get to work on her orders.

18:18

She begins by taking the lacquer that can still be used, and breathes life into it.

18:29

It's full of dust.

18:32

It's been four months. Let's see.

18:41

It's lovely! Nice!

18:48

- Doesn't it look tasty?
- "Tasty?"

18:52

Don't you think so? Like chocolate sauce.

18:58

It's beautiful!

19:02

I love it.

19:05

My baby.

19:10

Half of my blood is lacquer. I have to keep going.

19:16

But this time, I want to do it slow and steady.

19:22

The wounds in my heart are very deep.

19:27

So, I want to take the time I need for lacquer to help me heal.

19:34

It's the path I chose.

19:41

The "Way of Lacquer."

19:50

The greenery at the back is nice!

19:55

It's my idea!

20:22

Hi! Welcome! I'm Tomoe Setsubai.

20:27

I came to Japan from China to make Japanese sweets.

20:31

Drop by my shop for a break.

20:48

Tsurumi Ward. Yokohama, Kanagawa Pref.

20:53

In spring, cherry trees bloom along the Tsurumi River.

20:58

7:30 a.m. arriving at work.

21:02

Setsubai gets changed and she's all set.

21:07

First, a sweet called "daifuku."

21:12

I gotta use strength.

21:15

She kneads a lot of sticky rice flour by hand.

21:22

She steams it, then kneads it again with a machine.

21:31

Today: strawberries, mandarins, melon, watermelon, kiwi, pineapple...

21:38

Six kinds.

21:40

Her "fruit daifuku" with large pieces of fruit are a popular line of products.

21:48

Some high-end fruit don't work well if their taste is too light.

21:53

If they're not tasty, I don't sell them.

21:58

She wraps the fruit in the rice cake paste.

22:02

I try to be gentle, quick and precise.

22:08

After a while, the rice cake hardens.

22:13

If customers come in then, I'm a bit nervous.

22:18

She then wraps the "daifuku" and puts them on display.

22:24

The colorful fruit make the sweets as pretty as they are tasty.

22:31

9:00 a.m. opening time.

22:40

One strawberry, one blueberry...

22:43

- And also, kiwi and melon.
- Kiwi and melon. Thank you.

22:49

Can you eat all of them?

22:51

We'll do our best!

22:54

The fruit "daifuku" are a hit with children too.

23:03

Yummy.

23:10

Thank you!

23:21

Setsubai first tried Japanese sweets when she was in China, and fell in love.

23:27

She came to Japan to learn sweets making at a college then worked at several shops.

23:34

Even after opening her shop in 2018, her desire to study sweets grew stronger.

23:41

The more I learned about them, the more I became fascinated.

23:47

I wanted to know more.

23:51

I wanted to dive into that world.

23:56

This is a high-end fresh confection I call "petal raft."

24:03

It represents cherry blossom petals floating on a river.

24:09

Time for lunch.

24:11

Setusbai has lunch with her colleague.

24:15

I made them.

24:20

The bento lunches too are very colorful.

24:24

I pay attention to that, too.

24:27

She prepares tasty and colorful boxed lunches every day. I'm very thankful.

24:41

This is my colleague, Arakaki Miki.

24:48

Nice to meet you.

24:50

Setsubai is like a big sister to me.

24:58

She teaches me a lot about Japanese sweets making.

25:04

I hope one day I'll be able to attend customers as well as she does.

25:13

Miki is like an apprentice, but even more than that...

25:19

she's like a little sister to me.

25:21

I've never seen someone so earnest.

25:25

I can rely on her.

25:32

Later, Setsubai hands out sweets to nearby storeowners.

25:37

You're too kind!

25:41

It's crystalized sugar.

25:42

Running a business is tough. Setsubai worked so hard.

25:48

She's my Japanese mother.

25:57

These are my treasures.

26:00

Pictures and letters I got from customers' children.

26:09

When I opened my shop, I wanted it to be welcoming for little kids, too.

26:16

Their letters make me so happy. I treasure them.

26:21

If Japanese people recognize my sweets as authentic Japanese confections...

26:28

I'll have succeeded.

26:31

It's my ultimate goal.