Where We Call Home.

Zazen is a form of seated meditation aimed at training one's mind,

and it's what inspired this Brazilian man to move to Japan to become a Buddhist priest.

Thirty-three-year-old Joken Fernandes.

He entered an apprenticeship at a small village temple where he will one day become head priest.

I want to meet people's expectations.

I will dedicate my life to it.

A temple and its priests are like the heart and soul of a community.

Some villagers wonder if a non-Japanese can fulfill this role.

I was surprised to hear he's a foreigner.

I hope he'll do his best.

Does this budding Priest from Brazil have what it takes to earn the trust of the village and ensure a future for the temple?

Let's follow Joken to find out.

The Boso Peninsula in Chiba Prefecture.

Yamakogawa is a small rural community

with a picturesque landscape of fields and paddies and a population of about 170.

Watching over the area and its people for more than four centuries -

Chosenji Temple, belonging to one of Japan's major Buddhist sects.

August. The local residents are gathered at the temple.

They're here to cut the grass around the sanctuary.

Among the group is Joken Fernandes, who's been an apprentice priest here for only two months.

Good morning.

I'm Joken Fernandes, from Brazil.

I have much to learn but I'll do my best.
I ask for your kind support.

For most of the villagers, this is their first time to meet Joken.

Perhaps a bit too nervous to casually chat with the locals, he quietly starts to work on his own.

However, building a relationship of trust with the community is a crucial step in his apprenticeship.

As Joken is to one day take over the role of their spiritual guide, the villagers' expectations are high.

This is our family temple.
It's our ancestors' resting place.

Without a head priest here...

we wouldn't be able to fully honor
our ancestors with only our prayers.

Joken begins his daily training at four thirty in the morning.

First, forty minutes of Zen meditation, or Zazen.

He does two sessions a day - in the morning and in the evening.

When we meditate...

all kinds of thoughts and emotions
well up in our mind.

But we mustn't try to control them.

We simply let them appear
then we let them disappear.

After Zazen, he chants sutras.

A part of Joken's life at the temple, meditation and chanting can take about two hours every morning.

Though his priest name is Joken, he was born Giuliano Di Sevo Fernandes

in Sao Paulo, home to many Brazilians of Japanese descent.

As a teen, he was absorbed in Japanese martial arts and taiko drums.

At the age of fourteen, he was invited by a friend to take part in a Zen meditation workshop - an event that would change his life.

I remember when I first did Zazen.

My knees hurt so much,
I got tears in my eyes.

But afterward, I kept smiling
so much that my cheeks got sore.

In today's society,
people in their everyday lives...

never get to sit quietly,
not even five minutes.

It felt like the first time
I looked into myself.

When he was twenty-one, he moved to Japan to seriously devote himself to learning Zazen.

For six years, he underwent rigorous training at famous temples.

It was Chosenji's current head priest, Seki Tokuyu, who invited Joken to become an apprentice here.

He's been in charge of the temple for thirty years.

As the depopulation of regional communities continues to worsen,

the lack of successors to the function of temple head priest is a nationwide issue.

And so, when the two met at a temple where Joken was training,

Tokuyu put his hopes on the young priest-to-be.

Right away, I saw he was an earnest,
honest and straightforward man.

I hoped he'd agree to come to our temple.

I felt it was my biggest responsibility
to find someone to succeed me.

The graves of the families who've been supporting Chosenji Temple over generations.

Cleaning the headstones and tending the grounds is another important part of Joken's training.

One day, he will be the one to watch over the cemetery.

I feel they're watching over me.

It's thanks to the community
that I can train here.

They're supporting me.

In August in Japan, O-bon is a time when the spirits of ancestors are said to come visit people's households.

As a custom, priests of local temples visit homes to chant sutras for the forebears.

Today, Joken accompanies Tokuyu to learn by watching his mentor.

They begin their tour of the village with the house of Tojo Hiroshi, a childhood friend of the head priest.

In Joken's courteous and polite manners, Hiroshi sees much potential.

He's smart and very friendly.

We're so thankful he came.

Tokuyu too hopes the people of Yamakogawa warmly welcome Joken.

Some will have prejudice
towards a non-Japanese.

But not everyone will be like that.

The key is for Joken to find,
and even carve, his own path.

The following day, Tokuyu sends Joken to conduct memorial services.

He wants his apprentice to become familiar with the community as soon as possible.

From early in the morning, Joken is preparing something.

At university, he majored in graphic design.

He hopes hand-painted fans will help leave a good impression on the people of Yamakogawa.

With Hiroshi as a driver, Joken sets out to conduct the ceremonies on his own.

He arrives at the home of Shimizu Takashi.

I'm from Chosenji Temple.

As board member of the residents' association and the citizens' fire department,

Takashi occupies a central role in the local community supporting the temple.

After the sutras, Joken hands out a fan he made in the morning.

- You made this?
- Yes.

- You signed it.
- Yes.

It's nice!

Joken's personality shines through in his creation.

This is your first visit to a household
supporting the temple.

You'll eventually get to know everyone.

Some wonder what
a foreigner priest is like.

You're so kind and courteous.
You'll do fine, I'm sure.

It's still early, but eventually.

Takashi's mother, Machiko, is touched by Joken's thoughtful gesture.

I'm so thankful.

A month has passed. To express her gratitude, Machiko invited Joken over.

She wants to teach him how to prepare her homemade pickles.

It's a simple recipe of cucumbers seasoned with salt, then pressed under a heavy stone for two weeks.

She has him try some she'd previously made.

They top them with a kind of Japanese ginger called "myoga."

It's delicious.

Machiko was born in Yamakogawa and married a local man.

All her life, she worked on the family farm.

Since her husband passed away five years ago, she's been living with her son and his wife.

Joken decides to offer a painting in thanks for today's invitation.

He depicts Bodhidharma, known as "Daruma" in Japan.

Thank you.
It's such a nice present.

It feels like my husband has come back.

Somehow, Joken's artwork reminds Machiko of her husband.

If only he'd stayed with us
just a little longer.

Family is what keeps us alive.

I can't do anything.
I can't drive or ride a bicycle.

But you have a wonderful smile.

It brings happiness to people.

Early September.

Joken was called to attend a meeting of the residents' association.

It was an initiative of Takashi, who hopes Joken gets better acquainted with the people of Yamakogawa.

Today, they discuss the next cutting of grass around the temple.

They carefully plan the schedule according to every member's availability.

If we do it too soon,
it'll rain right after.

It'll be better in October.

The seventh could work.
It's a Saturday.

The meeting lasts for almost two hours.

I'd never had a meeting
like this in Brazil.

I feel I've become part
of the Yamakogawa community.

I want to do my best to contribute.

After the meeting, the members make a suggestion to Joken.

We'd be interested in a lecture
or workshop held at the temple.

Maybe do Zazen or read sutras
once a month.

The people of Yamakogawa express their desire to study Buddhism.

Two weeks later, Joken welcomed members of the community for a Zen meditation workshop.

Fifteen people have shown up this time.

Many people have the impression that
Zazen feels austere and uncomfortable.

But it isn't just that. It's very simple.
All you have to do is sit...

and look into yourself.

Rest your thumb on your left hand.

This is called "shashu."

Keep this posture as you head
where you'll meditate.

To accommodate those who've never done Zazen, this time, they only do a ten-minute session on chairs.

Later, Joken gives a short lecture.

We're like this, sitting atop a lion.
It symbolizes our mind.

We have to relax our body
and mind, and just sit.

Then, little by little,
the lion calms down.

How was it? Long?

I stayed still and quiet,
and emptied my mind of thoughts.

When it was over,
I felt liberated, recharged.

As they listen to Joken talk with passion and enthusiasm, the participants open up.

Trying Zazen for the first time
was an invaluable experience.

I have two small children.

- Is it possible to teach them Zazen?
- Of course.

- They're very stubborn, though.
- No problem.

The people of Yamakogawa
are friendly and unpretentious.

It's what's great about people here.

So, you don't have to overthink.
Just be natural and laid-back.

People here are very kind.

At the end of September, Joken completed a ceremony that's important in his apprenticeship to become head priest.

One step at a time, he progresses along his path.

It's been four months since Joken came to train at Chosenji.

The unease he felt in the beginning is gradually disappearing.

No matter my worries, I feel there
are people who support me.

Now we can hold Zazen sessions.

We opened up the door to conversation.

This is a place where I can
move forward along my own path.

It's a wonderful place.

Hi, I'm Amani Amiroh.

I manage a souvenir shop.

Nice to meet you.

"Nasu, Tochigi"

"Amani works at the only souvenir shop
in a local amusement park."

"9:00 a.m.
preparing to open."

The only announcement today
is that there's a general meeting.

"Amani was appointed manager
two months ago."

Let's stock up this shelf a bit more.

- Mark the new products with "N."
- Got it.

Thanks.

Sometimes, I'm unsure what to do.

So, I consult everyone...

and we discuss what to do.
It's fun that way.

"From household goods to food,
there are over 1,000 products."

Let's cut it out and put it together.

"With a new staff member,
she started making banners."

"Amani also puts effort into
giving the store a nice atmosphere."

An amusement park has
playfully colored buildings.

It's a colorful place.
So, as a souvenir shop, we want...

to offer customers the same experience.

"Amani found an interest in Japan
during Japanese lessons."

"In 2014, she majored
in Japanese literature in university."

I learned a lot about Japanese culture.
I came to want to visit Japan one day.

"In 2019, a resort developer hired Amani."

"The company put importance
in diversity in their hiring."

I'd never worked in service.

And I was still learning Japanese.

Honorifics were the hardest.

"Amani took many notes
to learn new words and expressions."

"carry in / carry out."

"Please wait a moment while I check."

We went there!

How was it?

- It was fun.
- It was?

"Amani became able to attend customers
and have friendly chats with them."

"Chatting with customers
is the most fun part of my work."

Seeing them smile
is what I enjoy the most.

Let me introduce my senior.

Koseki Mitsuki.

She's my colleague, and also
a friend and a big sister.

To me, perhaps more than a little sister,
Amani is a co-worker I can count on.

I feel confident I can rely on her.

Now, I'm a manager like she was.

I realize how managing
the store can be hard work.

When I lose confidence and
don't know what to do...

I know I can ask her for advice.

Amani is like a famous pop idol here.

She's popular with vendors
and distributors.

I think it's thanks to her friendly
and outgoing attitude.

Anyone falls under her friendly spell.
She's really amazing.

Now, she supervises new staff.

I can see how they rely
on her for help and direction.

She's become a dependable manager.
It's great to see.

My treasure is this pen.

When I joined the company,
a colleague gave me this...

to encourage me to work hard
and do my best.

I was touched.
I've been using it every day.

It's been over 4 years now.
It's a bit old.

But it's like a good luck charm.

It's got four colors.
It's very useful.

The black is running out.

I have to get a refill.

But the pen itself, I keep it preciously.

The service industry in Japan
really takes great care of customers.

It's very inspiring.

I want to keep improving
so I can better serve customers.

And one day, I'd like to open
my own souvenir shop.