Kochi - Land of Rivers

In a land of mountains, forests and fast-flowing rivers, we try our hand at catching sweetfish, climb up to an organic farm perched on a steep hillside, and go right inside a charcoal maker's kiln.

A gourmet delicacy – sweetfish fresh from the Niyodo River
A hillside organic farm thrives on pure mountain springwater
It takes up to 20 days in the kiln to produce the very finest charcoal
An incredible 84% of Kochi consists of forests

Transcript

00:05

The best way to discover little-known sights and make even familiar places feel brand new, is to go exploring by bicycle.

00:32

This time, we're in Kochi, known as the land of rivers.

00:41

In this part of Japan, you're never far from water.

00:52

People live close to nature in this fertile countryside.

00:57

The plants I grow feel like a part of me.

01:01

That's what keeps me farming.

01:08

For many, life here is an endless quest to make better use of Kochi's natural abundance.

01:19

From the forest to the sea, it's time to embark on a spirited three-day, midsummer ride through Kochi. Let's go!

01:53

Kochi City is the largest of the prefecture, with a population of 320,000.

02:08

A major attraction is the morning market, held four times a week in the shadow of the city's old castle.

02:17

Sunday is the busiest day, when stalls selling vegetables and seafood stretch for over a kilometer.

02:29

I've got all kinds of stuff here.

02:33

This is Bobby Judo, from Florida in the USA.

02:38

When he isn't cycling, Bobby works as a reporter and culinary researcher who digs into local foods and ingredients.

02:53

Good morning! What are you selling?

02:57

All kinds of handmade foods, like inakazushi.

03:04

- Inakazushi? What's that?
- Sushi, but using all sorts of vegetables.

03:10

- Is this it?
- Yes.

03:12

Very pretty. I see myoga ginger.
And that's konnyaku, right? Bamboo shoots too.

03:21

"Inakazushi," made from wild mountain ingredients, was traditionally eaten here at festivals and celebrations.

03:35

It's got that firm, crisp texture to the bamboo, and it's got that vinegary sweetness that you expect from sushi.

03:45

Now that Bobby's had something to eat, it's time to hit the road!

03:50

That's awesome.

04:01

I want to try to get some distance in this morning before it gets too hot.

04:31

We have this big, broad river over here on the left.

04:41

The Niyodo River takes a winding route through the mountains.

04:45

This is one of Kochi's three major rivers.

04:53

We've got a really nice view right here.

04:57

Some stronger currents down through there. Wow.

05:23

Starting to get a little bit of a light rain.

05:26

Not too bad. I hope it holds off.

05:41

We can see a couple of people fishing down here in the river.

05:45

This is on my must-do list while we're here.

05:54

Bobby has arranged to go fishing with this couple.

05:59

- Hello! Are you the Nishiwakis?
- Hi there!

06:06

Nishiwaki Yasushi and Aki make their living catching sweetfish.

06:15

This river produces the highest quality sweetfish, which they sell to top-class Kyoto restaurants.

06:24

- You can use this rod.
- Wow, that's long!

06:28

This is a short one. Only 7 meters.

06:36

The water in this tributary of the Niyodo River is among the purest in Japan.

06:41

Yasushi also likes this particular spot since it's easy for beginners to keep their footing.

06:48

He'll teach Bobby how to use live decoy fish.

06:52

This method takes advantage of the sweetfish's habit of defending its feeding area.

07:00

A decoy fish with hook attached is placed in the feeding area, and the attacking sweetfish is caught by the hook.

07:11

The main point is not to leave the decoy fish
on the line too long, as it gets weak and lifeless.

07:23

Too much tension on the line weakens the decoy fish, so the skill lies in guiding it gently towards the feeding area.

07:33

- Do you fish? Other kinds, I mean.
- Yes, but I've never got the knack.

07:39

Mostly I go home empty-handed.
But it's great to be out in nature.

07:46

Ah! I got something!

07:48

Yes! Get the net ready as you reel it in.

07:55

Here it comes!

08:04

Caught it!

08:09

I got one.

08:13

Decoy fish must swim vigorously to be effective, so they use the freshest.

08:19

Each time a new fish is caught, it's used to replace the decoy.

08:30

Yasushi once worked at a company in Kyoto.

08:35

There, he met Aki, who is from Kochi, and his life changed forever.

08:43

After I showed him some Kochi rivers,
he was hooked. All he wanted to do was fish.

08:51

- The water in these rivers is so clear.
- Sweetfish from pure water taste divine.

09:01

After that first experience of the Niyodo River and the taste of its sweetfish,

09:06

Yasushi gave up his job and moved to Kochi to spend the rest of his life fishing on this river.

09:16

He insists that the best-tasting sweetfish are caught using the decoy method.

09:23

This method lets us catch sweetfish in the best condition,
so they stay healthy in the tank.

09:31

They stay fresh right up till you eat them.

09:38

People we teach always say these are
the best they've ever tasted.

09:43

Our aim is to show people how to catch
sweetfish and see how good it tastes.

09:48

They all say the difference is incredible.

09:59

Bobby has brought the sweetfish he just caught to a nearby hotel, where he'll get them cooked.

10:06

He'll try them cooked with salt, which preserves their original flavor, and cooked in rice seasoned with soy sauce.

10:27

That's really, really good.

10:29

So fresh.

10:32

It's soft, it's light, it's flaky, it's perfectly seasoned.

10:37

It's unbelievably good.

10:43

Now for some sweetfish rice.

10:55

It's really, really good.

10:56

That's delicious.

11:12

Day two takes Bobby to another of Kochi's great rivers.

11:25

The 194-kilometer long Yoshino River is famous for its many rapids.

11:52

Bobby's come from the river to the mountains.

11:55

The slopes become steeper and steeper.

12:09

In the end, this hill is just a bit too much for our cyclist.

12:21

That was quite a climb.

12:23

I made it all the way up here.

12:28

And I think I see some people at work up in the field over here.

12:38

- Hello!
- Good morning!

12:43

Tending their crops are Wada Toyoki and Kazumi.

12:47

The Wada family has farmed these slopes for generations.

12:56

Their farm is located on a hill overlooking the village.

13:01

At this height, the Wada's crops thrive on the pure mountain spring water.

13:08

Toyoki has thought deeply about the best ways to farm in this unique environment.

13:16

The most important thing is soil preparation.

13:22

I cut wild grass on the ridge up there for mulch
to feed the good microorganisms in the soil.

13:38

For Toyoki, weeds are an important resource.

13:43

He uses them to improve drainage and aerate the soil, activating microorganisms that enhance the flavor of his vegetables.

13:59

Oh, this is so sweet! Crunchy and juicy!

14:06

Glad you like it.

14:09

You don't need to cook it at all,
it tastes great fresh.

14:15

Born to a family of rice farmers, Toyoki naturally began growing rice himself after high school.

14:23

But soon after, the government introduced policies to reduce rice production, so he started thinking about other kinds of farming.

14:34

In this fertile area so blessed by nature, he decided to focus on growing safe, high-quality vegetables.

14:45

Walking through the field like this,
I sometimes just stop and look around.

14:52

The leaves of all these different plants
seem to flutter in a special way.

14:59

Are they trying to talk to me?

15:04

It always moves me deeply.

15:13

But the more farmers rely on the power of nature, the more they're vulnerable to nature's unpredictability.

15:24

- They don't seem all that healthy?
- You're right.

15:28

We just had two typhoons.

15:32

Constant rain and no sunshine stunted their growth.

15:36

I've been growing tomatoes for 30 years and
I've never seen anything like this before.

15:46

Typhoons pass over Kochi every year, but this summer brought unusually heavy rainfall.

15:54

Toyoki's harvest was only 60 percent of the usual crop.

16:01

So what is it that makes you want to continue farming?

16:06

My plants have come to feel like a part of me.

16:11

Seeing and touching them everyday,
that's what keeps me farming.

16:16

They give me strength to keep going.

16:24

Bobby will try some homemade cuisine cooked up with Toyoki's signature veggies.

16:31

I'll start with the eggplant tempura.

16:45

The eggplant itself is so soft and juicy.

16:50

For fifty years Kazumi has been Toyoki's indispensable partner on their farm,

16:56

while at the same time running the house and raising four children.

17:03

- How is the food?
- Delicious. As usual.

17:11

Him saying that must make you happy.

17:13

He'll comment if it's too hot or sweet,
but when he likes it he says nothing.

17:21

Maybe I don't say much, but I know
I'd be at a complete loss without her.

17:32

It's the best feeling when guests tell us the food is delicious.

17:40

Hearing that makes all the work worthwhile.

17:48

I never want to stop doing this.

18:13

Bobby starts his final day on the Yasuda River.

18:28

A tunnel built into the side of the mountain here.

18:38

Kochi has a thriving forestry industry.

18:41

The timber used to be transported by rail out of these hills, and many tunnels remain to this day.

19:11

It's started to smell some smoke through here.

19:14

I think I even see some clouds wafting up over there.

19:23

Bobby has come into these forests specially to meet someone.

19:31

- Excuse me. Are you Morimoto san?
- Yes.

19:37

- I'm Bobby. I've come to watch you work.
- You're very welcome.

19:43

Morimoto Seichō is a charcoal maker.

19:49

He specializes in "binchōtan" - a type of very high grade charcoal that's long burning and gives a strong flame.

20:01

Morimoto is the leading producer of the kind called "Tosa Binchōtan."

20:08

It's almost done now.
Time to take it out.

20:18

Logs stay in the kiln for 20 days, with Morimoto constantly monitoring and controlling the heat.

20:28

Today is the final day, when the finished charcoal can be taken out.

20:59

Over here there's some I took out earlier.

21:03

It's quite heavy.
It really is quite a weight.

21:09

The wood shrinks to half its original size.

21:15

It gets so dense, it becomes hard like metal.

21:29

What a lovely high tone. You'd never think charcoal
would make a sound like this.

21:38

Morimoto is continually researching better ways to make charcoal,

21:43

experimenting with different methods of drying the logs and varying the kiln temperatures.

21:50

He's especially focused on improving the design of his kilns, which he builds himself by hand.

21:58

Building the kiln is the hard part.

22:03

It's the basis of everything. If the kiln isn't right,
you won't get good charcoal from it.

22:10

Morimoto takes Bobby inside a kiln.

22:18

This is intense.

22:21

- It's very high.
- About 3 meters.

22:28

Kilns must be strong enough to withstand temperatures of 1,000 degrees, and be completely airtight.

22:38

Morimoto has built more than 20 kilns, using a variety of shapes and materials.

22:49

The more I learned about the technical aspects,
the more interesting it became for me.

22:55

The quality changes completely depending on the
way you char the wood to remove moisture.

23:01

Charcoal making really is a very deep process.

23:09

Morimoto is now planting oak trees to pass on charcoal making to future generations.

23:18

The trees normally grow on steep hills, but he is planting them in more accessible areas.

23:27

I won't be here to fell the trees I plant,
but I still work to keep the mountain covered in trees.

23:34

That way, in 30 or 40 years, someone will be able to
cut them down to make charcoal.

23:40

We need many mountains like this to continue
providing work for people of the region.

23:49

I hope more young people will want to become
charcoal makers.

23:58

One man's passion - a flame that will burn long after he's gone.

24:10

Bobby heads for his goal: Cape Muroto.

24:32

We're on the Muroto Skyline.

24:34

Cyclists love this road, with its panoramic views over the Pacific.

25:11

We made it.

25:40

Pounded by waves, Cape Muroto is a long headland jutting sharply out into the Pacific.

25:50

Look at this incredible coastline.

25:52

You can really feel the raw power of the ocean.

25:58

This was a great trip.

26:01

It was nice to get to meet so many people making their living together with nature in these places that are so beautiful.

26:09

And there are really difficult things about living that kind of life as well.

26:15

You can't always make nature do what you want it to do.

26:18

But these people have found a lifestyle and a way of living that makes them even more a part of nature.

26:28

Kochi has been absolutely wonderful.

26:32

I definitely want to come back.

26:36

Nature in the wild - sometimes kind and beautiful, sometimes unsparingly harsh -

26:44

demands the courage to take on challenges and to believe in the future.