KIWI

The key to tasty kiwi is a ripening process that takes place after harvest. Discover new varieties being developed in Kagawa Prefecture and feast your eyes on innovative dishes. (Reporter: GOW)

Kiwi on the tree
Kiwi storage
Kiwi sweets
Kiwi cutlet

Transcript

00:02

Tokyo: this world-class metropolis is a veritable gourmet wonderland.

00:10

Discover the stories behind the ingredients that make this city so delicious - so "oishii."

00:19

Today we look at kiwi.

00:23

It's only been cultivated on a grand scale for about 100 years.

00:31

Its lovely appearance and flavor make it great for desserts.

00:40

Packed with goodies like vitamin C and fiber, kiwi is quite the super fruit.

00:47

Also, many varieties have been produced in Japan over the years.

00:52

They can be this small?

01:00

The fruit's blend of sweet and sour offers endless possibilities.

01:10

What on earth is this?

01:13

With kiwi, there's more than meets the eye.

01:19

Hi. Want some kiwi?

01:23

Trails to Oishii Tokyo.

01:31

Hi, everyone. My name is GOW and I am from the UK and Philippines.

01:35

When you hear the word kiwi fruits, what comes to your mind?

01:38

For me, it's a very beautiful green color that is on desserts.

01:42

But in this episode, you and me both might just be in for a big surprise.

01:49

GOW begins at a shopping center next to the famous scramble crossing outside Shibuya Station.

01:58

She'll try a sweet that's quite popular in Japan.

02:01

Oh, and there they are! Look at these colorful, yummy-looking rice cakes.

02:10

Traditional daifuku sweets with whole pieces of seasonal fruit wrapped in the center.

02:15

The shop typically offers around 10 choices.

02:20

Wow, so big!

02:25

Before eating, cut the sweet in half using a dedicated string.

02:34

Nice! That worked well!

02:39

It's a beautiful, beautiful green color.

02:41

Kiwis are popular because their
cross sections look so lovely.

02:50

Time for a taste test.

02:53

Very fresh and sweet.

02:59

The kiwi is covered with sweet white bean paste, and a soft rice cake known as gyuhi.

03:09

It's quite flavorful.

03:11

The gyuhi and bean paste aren't
overly sweet, so the kiwi flavor stands out.

03:17

- It's perfect.
- Thank you.

03:20

We used Hayward kiwi from New Zealand.

03:25

The Hayward kiwi was developed in New Zealand.

03:28

It's the most widely distributed kiwi - the familiar green kind found all over the world.

03:38

Quiz time: does anyone watching this know when kiwi season is?

03:46

Let's ask around Shibuya.

03:51

- Summer?
- Not spring?

03:55

Summer?

03:56

That's when I see them in fruit shops.

04:00

Summer?

04:01

That's when I usually eat them.

04:06

Most people guessed summer.

04:07

Is that right?

04:14

I say summer.

04:15

- Because it looks tropical.
- That's true.

04:18

Answer: Winter.

04:22

The opposite.

04:26

In Japan, kiwi is commonly mistaken as a summer fruit, but its history offers a reasonable excuse.

04:35

The kiwi originated in China.

04:38

It was a variety called mihoutao mainly used for medicinal purposes.

04:45

In 1904, a teacher from New Zealand named Mary Isabel Fraser

04:51

brought the fruit back home with her after traveling to China.

04:59

Selective breeding back in New Zealand led to the tasty Hayward variety.

05:08

The fruit was named after New Zealand's native bird, the kiwi.

05:13

Don't they look alike?

05:18

Kiwis were first exported to Japan for consumption in 1964.

05:26

It's winter in the southern hemisphere when kiwis are in season,

05:29

but it's summer in the northern hemisphere, where Japan is.

05:35

This could explain why people consider kiwi a summer fruit in Japan!

05:45

Japan ranks 12th in global kiwi production, with a large output considering the country's size.

05:56

GOW heads to Ota Market in Tokyo to find domestic kiwis.

06:06

There's another fruits over here.

06:08

- Good morning.
- Good morning.

06:11

This wholesaler mainly handles high-end fruits grown in Japan.

06:21

I'm looking for kiwi today.

06:25

We have some.

06:28

Could you show me?

06:34

They all look different.

06:37

- We have four varieties today.
- I see.

06:43

Take a look at this.

06:44

This is the kiwi fruit that I know... but not, because this is the ones that I know... usually.

06:54

It's different.

06:56

- This is longer.
- Because of selective breeding in Japan.

07:01

These are kiwis?
They're big!

07:05

It looks like a potato!

07:08

These are size 3L.
They can get up to 6L.

07:14

Sanuki Gold are among the largest in the world.

07:21

Kiwis vary in size and shape by variety.

07:29

Sanuki Angel Sweet kiwis are relatively new, introduced about a decade ago.

07:35

How does that look?

07:39

Lovely colors!

07:43

How about Sanuki Gold?

07:46

Very easy to cut.

07:51

It does look a bit gold.

07:57

A very refreshing, sweet scent.

08:01

The aroma is very nice.

08:04

I want to eat it with a spoon.

08:10

So how do we know if a kiwi is ready to eat?

08:13

He'll teach GOW how to check.

08:16

Press the top and bottom.
If it feels a bit soft, it's ready to eat.

08:22

- This one is still hard.
- May I?

08:25

You're right.

08:27

Pushing the sides will cause it to spoil.
Only press the top and bottom.

08:34

If you put them in a bag with apples,
they will get softer.

08:39

Why apples?

08:42

Place firm kiwis in a bag with apples at room temperature.

08:50

The ethylene gas emitted from apples will help the kiwis ripen.

09:00

Where should I go to learn more?

09:03

You should go to Kagawa.

09:06

Kagawa Prefecture?

09:07

Many new varieties are coming out of Kagawa.
You should go check it out.

09:13

Will do.

09:15

The three varieties GOW saw today all came from Kagawa.

09:20

Kagawa kiwis are said to be even sweeter than Haywards.

09:28

Let's compare regions in Japan by production volume.

09:31

Ehime is number one, with Fukuoka at number two.

09:35

Kagawa, Japan's smallest prefecture, ranks 11th.

09:42

However, Kagawa has registered 11 kiwi varieties, the highest number in Japan.

09:55

Next, GOW heads to Zentsuji, Kagawa, 570 kilometers west of Tokyo.

10:07

So, I have heard that there's a rare festival happening over here, so let's go out and check it.

10:16

As you can see, I think this is the place.

10:23

Found one!

10:26

Kiwi drinks.

10:29

A kiwi festival was held for the first time this year to promote the town's pride and joy - kiwi.

10:36

Twenty-seven shops participated, offering all kinds of tasty treats.

10:51

- Pickled kiwi?
- Yes.

10:57

- This is just pickled, no additives.
- I see.

11:01

- Pickled for six days.
- Six days?

11:03

We tried pickling them in shochu liquor.

11:14

- More than just a fruit, it's a great snack. Quite refreshing.
- Right.

11:21

This chicken was marinated
in garlic and kiwi, then grilled.

11:30

I have no idea what it's gonna taste, but let's give it a try.

11:41

Surprisingly, it does not fight with the actual taste itself.

11:48

I didn't think you could cook
kiwi with meat, but this is great.

11:54

The kiwi actually helps tenderize the chicken.

12:03

- Kiwi has that role as an ingredient?
- Exactly.

12:08

This is because of an enzyme called actinidin found in kiwi.

12:15

Try covering prosciutto ham with grated kiwi.

12:22

In two hours...

12:27

The meat practically melts when touched with chopsticks.

12:31

Kiwi tenderizes meat and aids with digestion.

12:39

GOW finds some fresh kiwis for sale.

12:44

- Hi.
- Hello.

12:46

So many varieties.

12:50

They can be this small?

12:52

Yes, it's one of the world's smallest types.

12:55

The smallest?

12:58

It really is small!

13:03

Hold it like this, and make several
small incisions with your thumbnail.

13:09

Oh, it's dripping juice!

13:12

Then you can break it in half.

13:18

Nice and easy!

13:20

- Squeeze it and suck the meat out.
- Got it.

13:24

Itadakimasu.

13:30

Look at the juice!

13:32

It's so tasty! And sweet!

13:37

The sweetness level is over 18 degrees Brix.

13:41

Delicious. I didn't know they could taste this way.

13:47

Shimada grows eight Kagawa varieties on his farm.

13:56

When was the first kiwi grown in Japan?

14:00

I think it was in the 70s.

14:06

This area used to farm mikan oranges,
but business became difficult after prices fell.

14:15

Farmers found kiwi when looking for an alternative.

14:22

As both fruits are suited to warm climates,

14:25

kiwi cultivation was introduced in the region to replace mikan oranges.

14:32

Breeding research in Kagawa has led to many unique kiwi varieties over the years.

14:51

At 29 years old, Shimada began working on his father's farm in 1978.

14:58

Mikan oranges and loquat fruits were the main crops at the time.

15:03

Then, after tasting the regional Koryoku kiwi, he switched gears to kiwi farming.

15:13

GOW gets a tour of the farm.

15:21

- Here?
- Yes, my beloved farm.

15:26

The sun is welcoming us!

15:33

She arrived in December, when she thought kiwis would be in season.

15:40

But where is the fruit?

15:49

They're in season, so where are the kiwis?

15:55

December is when they are consumed.

15:59

Kiwis are harvested in November.

16:02

They are ripe and ready to eat after harvest?

16:06

No, you can't eat them right away.

16:13

Kiwis actually don't ripen on their own, whether on the tree or post-harvest.

16:23

I'll be adventurous and take a bite.
But the color looks right.

16:28

- The color itself is green.
- Yeah.

16:35

- Sour!
- Right?

16:39

Let's see what happens to unripened kiwis after harvest.

16:48

Large ones like Sanuki Gold and
Koryoku are sorted using this machine.

16:53

Here?

16:56

The machine sorts the harvested kiwis into 10 groups by size.

17:09

Then, they're placed in a large cooler.

17:16

It smells sweet!

17:21

What's the temperature in here?

17:23

It's set to around 4 degrees Celsius.

17:28

The farm has five cooling rooms.

17:32

Some can store up to 60 metric tons of kiwis.

17:40

- We keep them like this.
- Very organized.

17:46

Everything is just the same size.

17:50

- Feel it.
- Thanks.

17:54

- It's hard, right?
- Yes.

17:57

If they aren't stored this way,
they won't last until March.

18:02

Keeping them hard helps them last.

18:05

When we receive an order for kiwis,
we take those out of this cooler.

18:12

Then, we soften them in a ripening process.

18:17

So this is not the final product.

18:24

Ethylene is used in the ripening process - similar to how kiwis are kept in a bag with apples.

18:33

Typically, kiwis are shipped along with ethylene-producing products to facilitate ripening,

18:38

but they may not ripen evenly.

18:45

Shimada's farm does things a bit differently.

18:53

These are covered.

18:57

We cover the crates with polyethylene sheets
and pump ethylene gas into them.

19:07

Ethylene gas is evenly distributed to ripen the kiwis in time for shipment.

19:14

Ethylene amount, temperature, humidity, and other factors

19:20

are adjusted carefully depending on kiwi size, variety and condition.

19:25

The kiwis are ripened to meet client needs before being shipped out.

19:32

Ripening is when carbohydrates
are converted to fructose.

19:37

Some varieties take up to 10 days.

19:41

Oranges and apples can be shipped
and eaten directly after harvest.

19:47

Kiwis are different.

19:49

We need to make sure they are ready
to eat before they are shipped.

19:55

GOW tries some kiwis that've finished ripening.

20:01

Lovely green color.
Lots of seeds. Is that a good sign?

20:06

The more seeds, the better it tastes.

20:10

Time to taste Koryoku, Shimada's pride and joy.

20:16

"Oishii."

20:19

Mild yet rich, with a refreshing aftertaste.
How interesting!

20:24

- I'd say it's delicious rather than just sweet.
- I see.

20:29

There's umami along with the sweetness.

20:36

Now for the world's largest - Sanuki Gold.

20:45

It's soft!

20:46

That's the key trait.

20:48

A soft variety.

20:59

- Different from other kiwis. Very little acidity.
- Right.

21:05

It's sweet and quite juicy.

21:12

Juicy varieties have an impactful flavor
even though sugar content is relatively low.

21:22

Choosing the right fertilizer is also key.

21:25

Customers always come back for tasty kiwi,
and amino acids influence that flavor.

21:35

Shimada experiments with amino acid-rich fertilizers,

21:39

such as by mixing crab and shrimp shells.

21:45

He aims to produce kiwis that fetch over 10 dollars per fruit.

21:53

Gotta make it pretty first.

21:56

Lovely.

21:59

After harvest, kiwis are inspected up to five times!

22:05

Shimada's crafted kiwis are a hit with high-end fruit shops and five-star hotels across Japan.

22:16

I work every day of the year.
But the farm is my happy place.

22:23

My family wants me to take a day off.

22:32

Back in Tokyo, GOW heads to a restaurant in a residential area.

22:40

- Hello.
- Hi.

22:43

Cooking with kiwi isn't so common,
so today will be full of surprises.

22:50

Iimura has been cooking French cuisine professionally for 20 years.

22:54

With kiwi, he's developed a unique menu.

23:02

He's preparing a Koryoku kiwi from Kagawa.

23:04

It'll be cooked with the skin intact.

23:11

Here you are.

23:16

What on earth is this?

23:19

A kiwi fried whole.

23:24

- Fried kiwi?
- Precisely.

23:29

Cooked kiwi is a first for me.
I've never had anything like this.

23:36

What's on top?

23:38

A goat cheese puree.

23:44

It's steaming hot.

23:57

- Tasty. Very interesting.
- Pretty unique.

24:00

I thought that if you fried the fruit itself that it would be a little more sweeter,

24:05

but no, it's a different one.

24:07

It has a little more sourness that is really impact.

24:10

It gives a really big impact to you.

24:13

The creamy goat cheese provides a nice balance.

24:18

How did you come up with this idea?

24:22

I saw my friend from New Zealand
eating a kiwi whole, with the skin.

24:34

That surprised me.
I didn't know you could do that.

24:37

Using the skin, which is often thrown out,
adds fiber to dishes.

24:42

Also, vitamin C will cook out
if you heat kiwis too long.

24:50

Frying them whole keeps the center rawer,
so the vitamin content is maintained.

24:57

Impressive.

25:00

Dish number two.

25:03

Here we go.

25:07

One moment!

25:13

It's so beautiful.

25:14

Lovely.
A work of art!

25:19

Kiwi tartar with lamb sausage.

25:26

He used the small kiwi variety we saw back in Kagawa.

25:32

Avocado, asparagus, coriander and bananas are also used, offering lots of texture.

25:40

On top is a processed jelly sheet made of five sauces, including wasabi and yuzu pepper.

25:52

Heat from the dish melts the sheet into a sauce.

25:59

Enjoy all of the flavors together,
along with the sausage and tartar.

26:06

This is kiwi? It is!

26:15

Lamb and kiwi go great together!

26:20

- It's a bit milder than the first kiwi.
- It is.

26:23

I suppose chopping the kiwi into small pieces
allows its flavors to wrap around the meat.

26:31

Exactly.

26:33

Lamb dishes outside Japan often come with
coriander, yoghurt, and things like candied lemon.

26:50

I tried using kiwi instead of lemon.

26:56

It plays a similar role in terms of flavor.

27:03

What do you like best about using kiwi?

27:09

I see it as a great gift to chefs.

27:13

You have sweet, sour and bitter all in one fruit.
That makes it pretty versatile.

27:23

- You can rely on kiwi!
- Right.

27:27

I'm impressed. I'm a fan of kiwi now.

27:30

Yeah, I'm with you.

27:33

I was quite skeptical coming into this episode because, for me, kiwi was only a fruit.

27:38

But throughout, I have found that it has high potential and so many possibilities.

27:43

I encourage everyone to eat more kiwi and find your own discovery.

27:51

In Tokyo, every ingredient has its own story.