Yuba is the thin film that forms when soymilk is heated. It's rich in protein and nutrients and is essential in Buddhist cuisine. We visit temple-filled Kyoto, where yuba has long been a prized ingredient used in everything from high-end cuisine to home cooking. We visit a yuba producer founded over 300 years ago to discover how it's made, and enjoy yuba dishes at a world heritage temple and traditional Kyoto restaurants. In Tokyo, we see how yuba can be used in even French cuisine. (Reporter: Kailene Falls)
Tokyo: this world-class metropolis is a veritable gourmet wonderland.
Discover the stories behind the ingredients that make this city so delicious - so "oishii."
Our focus this time is yuba.
Known as tofu skin, it's a thin film that forms when protein on the surface of soymilk hardens after being heated.
Yuba and tofu are both made from soybeans.
But compared to tofu, yuba is packed with vitamins, minerals and protein.
It's a nutritious superfood!
It's said to have come to Japan from China alongside Buddhism,
and is a valued ingredient in Buddhist cooking, which doesn't allow eating meat and fish.
In places with many temples, especially Kyoto,
yuba is key in everything from high-end, multi-course meals to home cooking.
"Oishii!"
Wonderful flavor and texture.
Yuba can even be used in Western dishes, where its appeal knows no bounds.
This time, we explore Kyoto and its deep historical connection with today's ingredient: yuba.
Trails to Oishii Tokyo.
Today we're going to learn about yuba,
an ingredient that is popular in Japan and especially in Kyoto, where I've come to today.
Yuba is similar to tofu in that they're both made from soybeans.
I have never eaten yuba before I came to Japan, but I quickly fell in love with its unique texture and taste.
I'm excited to see how it's produced and how people in Japan eat it.
The city of Kyoto is far from the sea and filled with temples and shrines.
Yuba has long been an essential ingredient in both "shojin" and Kyoto cuisines.
"Shojin" cuisine is a type of veganism for monks who follow the precepts of Buddhism.
Animal products like meat, fish and eggs cannot be used.
Our first stop is Saga-Arashiyama.
It's home to Tenryuji Temple, a designated World Heritage site.
Kailene visits a "shojin" cuisine restaurant on the temple grounds.
This is temple cuisine, or "shojin" cuisine.
I see.
We only use plant-based ingredients.
- How about eggs?
- No eggs.
So it's vegan.
Do you use a lot of yuba?
It's a valuable source of protein.
But it's expensive, so we only use
as much as necessary.
Up first is a dish made with an edible wild plant called warabi, gluten-based fu, and yuba, all soaked in dashi broth.
"Itadakimasu."
- The yuba soaks up the dashi.
- Right.
The moment I bit it, the texture of the yuba
and the dashi spread through the mouth.
"Oishii."
The dashi is made of kombu kelp,
and there's a shiitake mushroom, right?
It's used to make the dashi.
It would be a waste to throw out,
so it's used in the dish.
You can taste it in the dashi.
I see.
Next up, vegetables and wild plants wrapped in yuba and deep-fried.
I don't think I've ever eaten zenmai.
"Itadakimasu."
The zenmai and deep-fried yuba's
textures balance out really well.
Abroad in places like in the US,
soybean "meat" is becoming popular.
But I don't think many people in the US
have experienced texture like yuba's.
I want more people to know that
soybeans can be enjoyed in this way.
Me too.
You can eat yuba raw, simmered,
grilled, deep-fried, steamed...
It's so versatile.
The ingredients you can use in
"shojin" cuisine are quite limited.
That makes yuba a valuable ingredient.
So right now it's 4 a.m. here in Japan.
I'm going to go see how yuba is made.
Kailene visits Kyoto's oldest yuba maker, founded in 1716.
- Good morning.
- Good morning.
- Thank you for your time.
- My pleasure.
- It's so early!
- Sure is.
Soybeans, right?
Anything you're specific about?
I use domestically grown ones.
I confer with soybean sellers
and buy from different areas around Japan.
Today he's using a mix of soybeans from Toyama and Niigata.
I heard yuba is made using
just soybeans and water.
Anything special about the water?
We've long had good wells here,
so we only use underground water.
Why?
The temperature is consistent,
and it used to be the only option.
- Preserving the old traditions?
- Right.
Cool!
Located in a mountain basin, Kyoto has an abundance of high-quality underground water from the mountains.
It's said to be one reason tofu making, the tea ceremony and sake brewing all flourished here.
Soybeans are soaked in water - a half day in summer, a whole day in winter - then ground little by little.
This stone mill has been used for over a century.
It's said to preserve the flavor of the soybeans well.
The ground soybeans are cooked in a kiln.
Next, they're strained through cloth.
The resulting soymilk must be smooth, because it will affect the finish of the yuba.
What a great aroma.
- Want to try some?
- May I?
"Oishii."
I'm really used to... I actually drink quite a bit of soy milk from the grocery store,
but this is a lot more of like a very simple back to the basics flavor.
You just taste the beans, and I suppose water.
It's really delicious.
The soymilk is transferred to pans and steamed, with the temperature kept at about 80 degrees Celsius.
There are different names for yuba depending on the timing at which it's finished.
The surface begins to harden after about 30 minutes.
These initial lumps, scooped out, are called "kumiage yuba."
Made in small amounts only at the beginning of production, this is precious stuff.
Kailene prepares to give it a try.
"Itadakimasu!"
It's a really interesting texture.
I can't really think of anything else I've eaten that has a similar texture to this.
I mean it's like a... very soft, very thin noodle but thinner than you could ever get a noodle.
After another ten minutes or so, a thin film forms.
To keep it from being damaged, it's quickly but carefully scooped up with a wooden pole.
This kind, called "hikiage yuba," is most plentiful when making yuba.
Amazing.
What?!
It's just point-one millimeters thick.
It takes years of experience to know exactly when to remove it from the pans.
Kailene is given special permission to give it a try.
- May I?
- Go ahead.
- Oh no!
- Hot, right?
Got it? Oh!
He made it look so easy that I really underestimated how hard it was.
I didn't do a great job.
It might not look great, but how will Kailene's first yuba taste?
"Itadakimasu!"
It has a different texture than the yuba that I ate before.
It's much firmer.
The last time that it was, like, really almost like a mix between a noodle and a pudding.
And this one is much more closer to the noodle end of things.
This is "ama yuba," made by drying boiled-down soymilk following repeated yuba production.
Wow! It's like yuba jerky.
First time I've heard it called that.
The soy flavor is quite rich,
so the soybeans' sweetness comes through.
Many say it goes well with whiskey.
This is Nishiki Market, a great place to check out Kyoto's unique culinary culture.
The road runs some 400 meters, with many food shops on either side.
Near Nishiki Market is a shop specializing in yuba.
They supply yuba to temples around Japan.
- Hello.
- Welcome.
I noticed this right away.
Is this yuba?
Yes, dried yuba.
Didn't know that existed.
It looks just like pasta!
Right.
It's so cute. Looks like bowtie
pasta at first glance.
Putting just one in a soup
makes it look really beautiful.
I bet.
What do you think of when you hear "yuba?"
A kind of smooth, supple food.
- Kind of viscous, right? It's called raw yuba.
- Raw yuba?
Yes. I think you've already tried some.
- In Kyoto, yuba is more often used in dashi.
- I see.
Dried yuba works well in simmered
or hot pot dishes.
So in Kyoto, yuba is more often
eaten dried than raw?
Right. Many older folks eat it every day.
Dried yuba doesn't need to be rehydrated, making it quite convenient.
It also keeps at room temperature for about three months, so it's a prized preserved food.
It's quite rolled up.
The outer layer is made from thick yuba.
We place five thin sheets on the thick one and roll it up.
Our artisans make sure the surface
isn't wrinkled when rolling.
True! It's rolled so beautifully.
I bet it's got great mouthfeel.
How is dried yuba used in cooking?
Kailene is about to try some of this place's top dishes.
This hot pot dish features dried yuba in kombu kelp dashi with vegetables, mushrooms and more.
Looks great!
"Itadakimasu."
Quite firm and chewy.
- The outer yuba has a nice snap to it.
- Right.
The texture is close to meat.
Next up, dried yuba that's layered flat.
Yum!
Smooth and slippery texture.
The texture varies by type, huh?
Right, totally different.
The one you just ate is quite soft,
so you can slurp it right up.
I'm used to soybean-based foods
being more of a side than a main.
But featuring it front and center is so nice.
Glad to hear it.
Dried yuba isn't limited to Japanese dishes.
It can be used in a variety of cuisine.
It's made with just soybeans and water,
so it matches both rich and simple flavors.
It works with any kind of soup, like tomato.
Tomato soup! Sounds great.
It's delicious if you add cheese and let it melt.
Cheese and yuba. Such potential!
From raw to dried, yuba comes in a vast number of varieties, and can be used in many ways.
It's a truly versatile ingredient.
Next, we visit a traditional Japanese restaurant called a "ryotei" founded in 1722
that serves Kyoto cuisine associated with the Kyoto Imperial Palace.
What is yuba's appeal in your eyes?
Kyoto was the capital, so things
came in from all over the country.
On the other hand, we have many temples,
where they eat "shojin" cuisine.
Yuba is crucial for that.
It doesn't get in the way of other dishes,
so it's easy to use year-round.
Especially in Kyoto, there'd be
no cuisine without yuba.
- Really?
- It's so useful.
The first dish features lots of seasonality.
It brings to mind Boys' Day, a celebration held in May.
We place strips of cucumber and sea
urchin on a thin sheet of yuba.
- Then add soy sauce jelly for flavor.
- Fancy!
Then roll and serve.
- It's like yuba sushi.
- Right.
Wonderful.
"Itadakimasu."
Do you like it?
It's amazing! Wow.
So many textures in one bite.
First you taste the thin, soft yuba,
then the crunchy cucumber.
"Oishii!"
Such a great balance.
Amazing flavor and texture.
Thank you.
The second dish features yuba, shrimp and mustard greens simmered in dashi broth.
The yuba has a huge number of layers.
When you bite in, the dashi flavor
spreads through the mouth.
And the yuba's texture adds a lot.
Delicious.
- It has a simple flavor.
- Right.
So anyone can enjoy it.
- It doesn't divide opinions.
- True.
Next up, a combo of tilefish, kikurage mushrooms, ginkgo nuts and lily bulbs.
It's topped with lots of soft "kumiage yuba."
Steaming it makes it even more tender.
The final touch is a thick sauce with a soy sauce base.
"Itadakimasu."
It's delicious yet different than before.
The yuba is like cream.
Right. Such a creamy texture.
Really warms you up.
- It matches fish well, too.
- Yes.
You can pair yuba with anything.
This time I used tilefish, but it works
with sea bream, flounder or just vegetables.
Yuba works with it all.
Seeing the skill involved in making it and the variety of ways in which it can be prepared was really eye opening.
Plus, it's full of protein.
So here in Kyoto, I learned that yuba is not only delicious but very satisfying too.
After her yuba-filled trip to Kyoto, Kailene returns to Tokyo.
She heads to a restaurant that uses yuba in French cuisine.
This is chef Otsuchihashi Shinya.
He's about to show us another side of yuba, quite different from the one seen in Kyoto.
To me, yuba is a very strong ingredient.
It's tender yet firm, so the flavor lingers.
It has strong umami and flavor
that are really enjoyable.
Otsuchihashi makes his yuba by hand, heating soymilk to just below boiling and pulling up the film that forms.
The first dish features a fun combination of two types of yuba: deep-fried and raw.
The skin of pork that's been cooked at low temperature is fried in oil to give it a crispy texture.
The pork is sandwiched between raw yuba on top and bottom.
The deep-fried yuba is topped with edamame and thinly sliced chorizo.
This is then used to top the raw yuba.
The sauce is made with homemade white chicken broth and chili oil.
It's a fusion of French and Chinese that's a treat for the eyes as well as the palate.
"Itadakimasu."
"Oishii!" Wow!
- It's totally new. Never had yuba like this.
- Thank you.
You can enjoy the crispiness of the pork
skin and deep-fried yuba together.
The pork and seasonings have a strong
flavor, but the yuba still comes through.
Right. It's quite strange, but yuba has
a strong flavor that can stand up to meat.
And it lingers through the whole meal.
As a chef, I can really depend on yuba.
The yuba left the strongest
impression, oddly enough.
Glad to hear it.
Here's the second dish.
What is this?
A dessert made with raw yuba.
The yuba is first topped with almond ice cream.
It's then covered with a veil of soymilk that's been solidified using agar.
Every ingredient used in this dish is white.
"Itadakimasu."
"Oishii!" It's yuba!
There's a French dessert called blancmange.
It's a custard-like dish.
Today I made something like it with soft yuba.
Everything visible is made with soymilk.
Soymilk!
The tofu almond jellies I've eaten before
melt away right after being eaten.
But this yuba dessert has a firm texture.
Right. You bite into the yuba at the end
and enjoy its aroma and flavor.
It has an appeal you can't find in tofu,
and I'm glad it suited your palate.
Yuba is deeply connected to Kyoto, eaten in its temples, high-end Japanese restaurants and even at home.
With its firm texture, it's a filling, satisfying ingredient.
And you can make it just by heating up soymilk.
Why not give it a try?
In Tokyo - and Kyoto - every ingredient has its own story.