YUBA

Yuba is the thin film that forms when soymilk is heated. It's rich in protein and nutrients and is essential in Buddhist cuisine. We visit temple-filled Kyoto, where yuba has long been a prized ingredient used in everything from high-end cuisine to home cooking. We visit a yuba producer founded over 300 years ago to discover how it's made, and enjoy yuba dishes at a world heritage temple and traditional Kyoto restaurants. In Tokyo, we see how yuba can be used in even French cuisine. (Reporter: Kailene Falls)

Kailene tries to make yuba
Making yuba
Having fresh raw yuba
Yuba takiawase

Transcript

00:02

Tokyo: this world-class metropolis is a veritable gourmet wonderland.

00:11

Discover the stories behind the ingredients that make this city so delicious - so "oishii."

00:19

Our focus this time is yuba.

00:25

Known as tofu skin, it's a thin film that forms when protein on the surface of soymilk hardens after being heated.

00:36

Yuba and tofu are both made from soybeans.

00:39

But compared to tofu, yuba is packed with vitamins, minerals and protein.

00:44

It's a nutritious superfood!

00:49

It's said to have come to Japan from China alongside Buddhism,

00:53

and is a valued ingredient in Buddhist cooking, which doesn't allow eating meat and fish.

01:02

In places with many temples, especially Kyoto,

01:06

yuba is key in everything from high-end, multi-course meals to home cooking.

01:14

"Oishii!"

01:17

Wonderful flavor and texture.

01:20

Yuba can even be used in Western dishes, where its appeal knows no bounds.

01:28

This time, we explore Kyoto and its deep historical connection with today's ingredient: yuba.

01:37

Trails to Oishii Tokyo.

01:45

Today we're going to learn about yuba,

01:48

an ingredient that is popular in Japan and especially in Kyoto, where I've come to today.

01:53

Yuba is similar to tofu in that they're both made from soybeans.

01:57

I have never eaten yuba before I came to Japan, but I quickly fell in love with its unique texture and taste.

02:02

I'm excited to see how it's produced and how people in Japan eat it.

02:09

The city of Kyoto is far from the sea and filled with temples and shrines.

02:14

Yuba has long been an essential ingredient in both "shojin" and Kyoto cuisines.

02:26

"Shojin" cuisine is a type of veganism for monks who follow the precepts of Buddhism.

02:32

Animal products like meat, fish and eggs cannot be used.

02:44

Our first stop is Saga-Arashiyama.

02:50

It's home to Tenryuji Temple, a designated World Heritage site.

03:02

Kailene visits a "shojin" cuisine restaurant on the temple grounds.

03:10

This is temple cuisine, or "shojin" cuisine.

03:13

I see.

03:16

We only use plant-based ingredients.

03:21

- How about eggs?
- No eggs.

03:24

So it's vegan.

03:28

Do you use a lot of yuba?

03:30

It's a valuable source of protein.

03:35

But it's expensive, so we only use
as much as necessary.

03:44

Up first is a dish made with an edible wild plant called warabi, gluten-based fu, and yuba, all soaked in dashi broth.

03:56

"Itadakimasu."

04:04

- The yuba soaks up the dashi.
- Right.

04:09

The moment I bit it, the texture of the yuba
and the dashi spread through the mouth.

04:17

"Oishii."

04:20

The dashi is made of kombu kelp,
and there's a shiitake mushroom, right?

04:27

It's used to make the dashi.

04:29

It would be a waste to throw out,
so it's used in the dish.

04:38

You can taste it in the dashi.

04:42

I see.

04:49

Next up, vegetables and wild plants wrapped in yuba and deep-fried.

04:57

I don't think I've ever eaten zenmai.

05:02

"Itadakimasu."

05:08

The zenmai and deep-fried yuba's
textures balance out really well.

05:19

Abroad in places like in the US,
soybean "meat" is becoming popular.

05:26

But I don't think many people in the US
have experienced texture like yuba's.

05:35

I want more people to know that
soybeans can be enjoyed in this way.

05:40

Me too.

05:43

You can eat yuba raw, simmered,
grilled, deep-fried, steamed...

05:50

It's so versatile.

05:53

The ingredients you can use in
"shojin" cuisine are quite limited.

05:58

That makes yuba a valuable ingredient.

06:08

So right now it's 4 a.m. here in Japan.

06:12

I'm going to go see how yuba is made.

06:18

Kailene visits Kyoto's oldest yuba maker, founded in 1716.

06:26

- Good morning.
- Good morning.

06:28

- Thank you for your time.
- My pleasure.

06:31

- It's so early!
- Sure is.

06:34

Soybeans, right?
Anything you're specific about?

06:39

I use domestically grown ones.

06:44

I confer with soybean sellers
and buy from different areas around Japan.

06:50

Today he's using a mix of soybeans from Toyama and Niigata.

06:58

I heard yuba is made using
just soybeans and water.

07:03

Anything special about the water?

07:06

We've long had good wells here,
so we only use underground water.

07:11

Why?

07:15

The temperature is consistent,
and it used to be the only option.

07:22

- Preserving the old traditions?
- Right.

07:26

Cool!

07:30

Located in a mountain basin, Kyoto has an abundance of high-quality underground water from the mountains.

07:42

It's said to be one reason tofu making, the tea ceremony and sake brewing all flourished here.

07:53

Soybeans are soaked in water - a half day in summer, a whole day in winter - then ground little by little.

08:06

This stone mill has been used for over a century.

08:09

It's said to preserve the flavor of the soybeans well.

08:19

The ground soybeans are cooked in a kiln.

08:26

Next, they're strained through cloth.

08:29

The resulting soymilk must be smooth, because it will affect the finish of the yuba.

08:42

What a great aroma.

08:46

- Want to try some?
- May I?

08:53

"Oishii."

08:54

I'm really used to... I actually drink quite a bit of soy milk from the grocery store,

08:58

but this is a lot more of like a very simple back to the basics flavor.

09:02

You just taste the beans, and I suppose water.

09:06

It's really delicious.

09:10

The soymilk is transferred to pans and steamed, with the temperature kept at about 80 degrees Celsius.

09:24

There are different names for yuba depending on the timing at which it's finished.

09:32

The surface begins to harden after about 30 minutes.

09:37

These initial lumps, scooped out, are called "kumiage yuba."

09:42

Made in small amounts only at the beginning of production, this is precious stuff.

09:50

Kailene prepares to give it a try.

09:58

"Itadakimasu!"

10:09

It's a really interesting texture.

10:11

I can't really think of anything else I've eaten that has a similar texture to this.

10:15

I mean it's like a... very soft, very thin noodle but thinner than you could ever get a noodle.

10:28

After another ten minutes or so, a thin film forms.

10:37

To keep it from being damaged, it's quickly but carefully scooped up with a wooden pole.

10:43

This kind, called "hikiage yuba," is most plentiful when making yuba.

10:54

Amazing.

10:58

What?!

11:05

It's just point-one millimeters thick.

11:09

It takes years of experience to know exactly when to remove it from the pans.

11:17

Kailene is given special permission to give it a try.

11:26

- May I?
- Go ahead.

11:28

- Oh no!
- Hot, right?

11:36

Got it? Oh!

11:40

He made it look so easy that I really underestimated how hard it was.

11:46

I didn't do a great job.

11:51

It might not look great, but how will Kailene's first yuba taste?

11:59

"Itadakimasu!"

12:07

It has a different texture than the yuba that I ate before.

12:10

It's much firmer.

12:12

The last time that it was, like, really almost like a mix between a noodle and a pudding.

12:17

And this one is much more closer to the noodle end of things.

12:25

This is "ama yuba," made by drying boiled-down soymilk following repeated yuba production.

12:35

Wow! It's like yuba jerky.

12:40

First time I've heard it called that.

12:45

The soy flavor is quite rich,
so the soybeans' sweetness comes through.

12:51

Many say it goes well with whiskey.

13:03

This is Nishiki Market, a great place to check out Kyoto's unique culinary culture.

13:10

The road runs some 400 meters, with many food shops on either side.

13:19

Near Nishiki Market is a shop specializing in yuba.

13:26

They supply yuba to temples around Japan.

13:35

- Hello.
- Welcome.

13:38

I noticed this right away.
Is this yuba?

13:44

Yes, dried yuba.

13:48

Didn't know that existed.

13:52

It looks just like pasta!

13:55

Right.

13:57

It's so cute. Looks like bowtie
pasta at first glance.

14:05

Putting just one in a soup
makes it look really beautiful.

14:10

I bet.

14:13

What do you think of when you hear "yuba?"

14:17

A kind of smooth, supple food.

14:21

- Kind of viscous, right? It's called raw yuba.
- Raw yuba?

14:26

Yes. I think you've already tried some.

14:32

- In Kyoto, yuba is more often used in dashi.
- I see.

14:40

Dried yuba works well in simmered
or hot pot dishes.

14:48

So in Kyoto, yuba is more often
eaten dried than raw?

14:52

Right. Many older folks eat it every day.

15:03

Dried yuba doesn't need to be rehydrated, making it quite convenient.

15:08

It also keeps at room temperature for about three months, so it's a prized preserved food.

15:17

It's quite rolled up.

15:19

The outer layer is made from thick yuba.

15:25

We place five thin sheets on the thick one and roll it up.

15:34

Our artisans make sure the surface
isn't wrinkled when rolling.

15:44

True! It's rolled so beautifully.

15:47

I bet it's got great mouthfeel.

15:53

How is dried yuba used in cooking?

15:55

Kailene is about to try some of this place's top dishes.

16:03

This hot pot dish features dried yuba in kombu kelp dashi with vegetables, mushrooms and more.

16:14

Looks great!
"Itadakimasu."

16:24

Quite firm and chewy.

16:26

- The outer yuba has a nice snap to it.
- Right.

16:32

The texture is close to meat.

16:39

Next up, dried yuba that's layered flat.

16:47

Yum!

16:48

Smooth and slippery texture.
The texture varies by type, huh?

16:55

Right, totally different.

16:59

The one you just ate is quite soft,
so you can slurp it right up.

17:05

I'm used to soybean-based foods
being more of a side than a main.

17:15

But featuring it front and center is so nice.

17:20

Glad to hear it.

17:23

Dried yuba isn't limited to Japanese dishes.

17:26

It can be used in a variety of cuisine.

17:30

It's made with just soybeans and water,
so it matches both rich and simple flavors.

17:42

It works with any kind of soup, like tomato.

17:46

Tomato soup! Sounds great.

17:49

It's delicious if you add cheese and let it melt.

17:55

Cheese and yuba. Such potential!

18:00

From raw to dried, yuba comes in a vast number of varieties, and can be used in many ways.

18:07

It's a truly versatile ingredient.

18:14

Next, we visit a traditional Japanese restaurant called a "ryotei" founded in 1722

18:20

that serves Kyoto cuisine associated with the Kyoto Imperial Palace.

18:26

What is yuba's appeal in your eyes?

18:30

Kyoto was the capital, so things
came in from all over the country.

18:35

On the other hand, we have many temples,
where they eat "shojin" cuisine.

18:41

Yuba is crucial for that.

18:43

It doesn't get in the way of other dishes,
so it's easy to use year-round.

18:51

Especially in Kyoto, there'd be
no cuisine without yuba.

18:55

- Really?
- It's so useful.

18:59

The first dish features lots of seasonality.

19:02

It brings to mind Boys' Day, a celebration held in May.

19:12

We place strips of cucumber and sea
urchin on a thin sheet of yuba.

19:19

- Then add soy sauce jelly for flavor.
- Fancy!

19:24

Then roll and serve.

19:29

- It's like yuba sushi.
- Right.

19:33

Wonderful.

19:36

"Itadakimasu."

19:43

Do you like it?

19:46

It's amazing! Wow.

19:51

So many textures in one bite.

19:55

First you taste the thin, soft yuba,
then the crunchy cucumber.

20:04

"Oishii!"

20:07

Such a great balance.
Amazing flavor and texture.

20:12

Thank you.

20:15

The second dish features yuba, shrimp and mustard greens simmered in dashi broth.

20:23

The yuba has a huge number of layers.

20:29

When you bite in, the dashi flavor
spreads through the mouth.

20:33

And the yuba's texture adds a lot.
Delicious.

20:39

- It has a simple flavor.
- Right.

20:42

So anyone can enjoy it.

20:45

- It doesn't divide opinions.
- True.

20:49

Next up, a combo of tilefish, kikurage mushrooms, ginkgo nuts and lily bulbs.

20:59

It's topped with lots of soft "kumiage yuba."

21:06

Steaming it makes it even more tender.

21:15

The final touch is a thick sauce with a soy sauce base.

21:23

"Itadakimasu."

21:30

It's delicious yet different than before.

21:34

The yuba is like cream.

21:36

Right. Such a creamy texture.

21:40

Really warms you up.

21:46

- It matches fish well, too.
- Yes.

21:50

You can pair yuba with anything.

21:53

This time I used tilefish, but it works
with sea bream, flounder or just vegetables.

21:59

Yuba works with it all.

22:04

Seeing the skill involved in making it and the variety of ways in which it can be prepared was really eye opening.

22:10

Plus, it's full of protein.

22:12

So here in Kyoto, I learned that yuba is not only delicious but very satisfying too.

22:19

After her yuba-filled trip to Kyoto, Kailene returns to Tokyo.

22:28

She heads to a restaurant that uses yuba in French cuisine.

22:36

This is chef Otsuchihashi Shinya.

22:39

He's about to show us another side of yuba, quite different from the one seen in Kyoto.

22:46

To me, yuba is a very strong ingredient.

22:51

It's tender yet firm, so the flavor lingers.

23:00

It has strong umami and flavor
that are really enjoyable.

23:09

Otsuchihashi makes his yuba by hand, heating soymilk to just below boiling and pulling up the film that forms.

23:23

The first dish features a fun combination of two types of yuba: deep-fried and raw.

23:35

The skin of pork that's been cooked at low temperature is fried in oil to give it a crispy texture.

23:46

The pork is sandwiched between raw yuba on top and bottom.

23:56

The deep-fried yuba is topped with edamame and thinly sliced chorizo.

24:05

This is then used to top the raw yuba.

24:12

The sauce is made with homemade white chicken broth and chili oil.

24:20

It's a fusion of French and Chinese that's a treat for the eyes as well as the palate.

24:28

"Itadakimasu."

24:38

"Oishii!" Wow!

24:41

- It's totally new. Never had yuba like this.
- Thank you.

24:46

You can enjoy the crispiness of the pork
skin and deep-fried yuba together.

24:51

The pork and seasonings have a strong
flavor, but the yuba still comes through.

25:00

Right. It's quite strange, but yuba has
a strong flavor that can stand up to meat.

25:10

And it lingers through the whole meal.
As a chef, I can really depend on yuba.

25:23

The yuba left the strongest
impression, oddly enough.

25:25

Glad to hear it.

25:31

Here's the second dish.

25:37

What is this?

25:41

A dessert made with raw yuba.

25:47

The yuba is first topped with almond ice cream.

25:55

It's then covered with a veil of soymilk that's been solidified using agar.

26:07

Every ingredient used in this dish is white.

26:17

"Itadakimasu."

26:25

"Oishii!" It's yuba!

26:30

There's a French dessert called blancmange.
It's a custard-like dish.

26:39

Today I made something like it with soft yuba.
Everything visible is made with soymilk.

26:44

Soymilk!

26:47

The tofu almond jellies I've eaten before
melt away right after being eaten.

26:52

But this yuba dessert has a firm texture.

27:02

Right. You bite into the yuba at the end
and enjoy its aroma and flavor.

27:09

It has an appeal you can't find in tofu,
and I'm glad it suited your palate.

27:21

Yuba is deeply connected to Kyoto, eaten in its temples, high-end Japanese restaurants and even at home.

27:31

With its firm texture, it's a filling, satisfying ingredient.

27:38

And you can make it just by heating up soymilk.

27:41

Why not give it a try?

27:50

In Tokyo - and Kyoto - every ingredient has its own story.