KUZU

Kuzu plays a key role in Japanese cuisine, from savory to sweet. The starch can be mixed in hot water to form a clear jelly, or used to thicken sauces and soups. The raw material is found deep in the mountains. Our journey takes us from harvest to factory, detailing a long process that remains largely unchanged for over 200 years. Feast your eyes on exquisite food featuring kuzu, an unsung hero of Japan's culinary culture. (Reporter: Alexander W. Hunter)

Harvesting kuzu in the mountain
At the Japanese restaurant
Kuzu-kiri, a popular kuzu dish
Chicken liver in kuzu & wine sauce

Transcript

00:01

Tokyo: this world-class metropolis is a veritable gourmet wonderland.

00:10

Discover the stories behind the ingredients that make this city so delicious - so "oishii."

00:18

Can you guess what this white stuff is?

00:21

Hint: it's an important part of Japan's food culture.

00:27

The answer is kuzu.

00:32

Since long ago, it's played a key supporting role in Japanese cuisine, from savory to sweet.

00:42

When mixed and boiled in water, you get this!

00:47

A shiny food that's been loved for generations.

00:53

Far off the beaten path, head to the mountains for a kuzu harvest... surrounded by nature.

01:04

This is a hike. Into the wild.

01:09

Kuzu is deeply rooted in Japan's food culture.

01:13

Dig in to find out more!

01:18

Trails to Oishii Tokyo.

01:26

Hello, everybody. My name is Hunter, and the theme for this episode is Kuzu.

01:31

It's a food.

01:33

I've never heard of it before.

01:34

So, let's see what it's all about.

01:40

Hunter begins at a kuzu-focused cafe in central Tokyo.

01:49

- Hello.
- Welcome.

01:53

I heard you have kuzu here.

01:57

That's right.

01:59

There's a white product by the door.

02:03

- May I?
- Sure.

02:08

So this is kuzu. Wow.

02:11

Kuzu powder.

02:18

Owner Sato Shigekazu begins with a popular dish.

02:26

This is kuzu-kiri.

02:33

Nice. How should I eat this?

02:36

It comes with kuromitsu syrup and matcha syrup.

02:39

- Matcha syrup?
- They are the dips.

02:43

It's like eating noodles.

02:51

- This is a first for me.
- First time?

02:53

Yes.

02:54

Here we go.

03:03

"Oishii."

03:06

- Interesting texture.
- Right, kuzu-kiri is pretty unique.

03:11

Chewy but easy to eat.

03:16

Exactly.

03:19

Fun to chew, and easy to gulp down.

03:22

Kuzu-kiri is often served with a sweet syrup called kuromitsu.

03:27

On its own, kuzu has a slightly bitter flavor.

03:35

Let's see how it's made.

03:40

Dissolve kuzu powder in water.

03:44

- It starts off white like this.
- It dissolves quickly?

03:47

Right. The blocks break apart
and dissolve easily in water.

03:53

The liquid is put into a square copper pan that's partially submerged in hot water.

04:04

Kuzu is a starch that thickens when heated.

04:12

Once a sheet forms, the pan is fully submerged.

04:18

This turns the kuzu from white to clear!

04:25

Now place it in cold water.

04:35

It becomes a clear jelly.

04:43

How cool!

04:49

Slice it up...

04:50

and it's ready to eat.

04:54

Sato says kuzu is only good for about 10 minutes after it's made.

04:59

It hardens quickly, so it needs to be enjoyed while the texture is just right.

05:09

Up next...

05:11

- This is kuzu-mochi.
- Wonderful.

05:18

How is this made?

05:23

For this, the white mixture
is stirred in a pan over heat.

05:36

Cool. Very clear.

05:43

It's similar to mochi, actually.

05:46

Right. More elastic than the previous dish.

05:48

Kuzu-mochi is plump and gelatinous.

05:57

And this is kuzu-neri, softer than kuzu-mochi.

06:01

It's served as-is, nice and moist.

06:11

It looks like a jellyfish.

06:16

Right. Very plump.

06:21

It's warm.

06:24

Freshly-made.

06:27

This is great.

06:30

All three dishes were made with
just kuzu powder and water.

06:39

But they have different textures.

06:43

That's amazing. The cooking method
makes all the difference.

06:51

Kuzu has been a part of Japanese cuisine for centuries.

06:56

In fact, a cookbook from the Edo period shows 10 different ways to eat it.

07:02

To this day, kuzu remains an important facet of the country's food culture.

07:11

Next, Hunter visits a restaurant in Kagurazaka, Tokyo.

07:17

He'll try kuzu dishes by owner chef, Komuro Mitsuhiro.

07:25

This traditional favorite contains kuzu - sesame tofu.

07:31

Actually, sesame and kuzu are the only ingredients.

07:39

Very good.

07:45

It's plump at first,
then breaks apart nicely.

07:54

It's a fun experience of textures.

07:57

Right. Kuzu brings unique textures.

08:03

Here's how it's made.

08:08

Kuzu and sesame paste are mixed in water, which is then strained using a cloth.

08:17

This is done carefully by hand.

08:22

The mixture is stirred with a spatula over heat for about 30 minutes.

08:29

The thick paste is poured into a mold, chilled, and then served.

08:39

It's really plump.

08:44

Just like my belly.

08:48

Stirring it well does that.

08:51

Kuzu is pretty unique in that sense.

08:56

Next, he'll demonstrate an everyday use for kuzu.

09:01

- Is that kuzu?
- Kuzu dissolved in dashi stock.

09:07

Soup stock thickened with kuzu is called kuzu-an.

09:13

Kuzu is Japan's answer to corn and potato starch.

09:16

It's an old-school thickener.

09:22

No idea how this will taste...

09:24

Thank you! It looks wonderful.

09:29

It's quite thick and gooey.

09:31

Right, so it retains heat.

09:34

- Be careful.
- I have a sensitive tongue.

09:46

The dashi and shrimp flavors stand out.

09:53

It would be much blander without kuzu.

10:01

Kuzu-an clings to the shrimp and other flavors,
and spreads them out.

10:12

Without kuzu, the broth would just
wash over the ingredients.

10:18

Komuro has one more trick up his sleeve.

10:22

Coat the sea bream.

10:27

- Is that...?
- Kuzu, yeah.

10:32

Kuzu gives boiled fish a shiny, clear coating.

10:47

Smells wonderful.

10:58

Very flavorful.

11:02

The powder keeps the fish umami
from escaping into the soup.

11:11

- It locks it in.
- Right.

11:13

Interesting.

11:14

There are many recipes that
aren't possible without kuzu.

11:20

I use it in every course.

11:22

There's always a place for it.

11:29

I'm learning a lot.

11:34

Osumi Peninsula in southern Japan is a major kuzu production area.

11:40

The raw material is found here, deep in the mountains.

11:52

- Hello
- Hi.

11:55

I'm Hunter.

11:58

Ikeda Shigeo has been harvesting kuzu for 50 years.

12:03

He lets Hunter tag along.

12:06

Ikeda has a ritual for entering the forest.

12:13

He makes offerings to the sacred, gracious mountains, and prays for a safe day of work.

12:25

Big area.

12:30

Watch your step.

12:33

- Into the mountains we go.
- Right!

12:43

This is a hike.

12:51

Into the wild.

12:54

Where's the kuzu?

12:59

Look here!

13:03

This is what we've been looking for.

13:07

- A kuzu tree!
- This?

13:11

- It's over 100 years old.
- Really?

13:15

See the vines?

13:17

That's where starch is made.

13:21

They grow upward and spread out,
and produce starch in the sunlight.

13:34

The roots store starch during the winter,
and the process repeats.

13:40

Kuzu vines are a member of the pea family.

13:44

At 2 to 3 years old, vines are only about 2 centimeters thick.

13:55

Ikeda hunts for trees with darker, thicker vines aged 30 years or more.

14:06

Is that a kuzu tree?

14:10

Bullseye!

14:11

You got it.

14:16

Nice.

14:18

I'm getting the hang of it.

14:22

He begins digging around the roots.

14:32

Follow the roots.

14:41

Tap down with the shovel.

14:44

Dig where you hear a nice sound.

14:46

Here.

14:49

I see.

14:51

They find roots after about 15 minutes.

14:54

Hunter's in charge of cutting off a section.

15:03

- This is our harvest.
- Great!

15:08

Kuzu powder is made from this.

15:11

The root!

15:17

Vines grow vigorously in the summer, covering the mountains with green leaves.

15:26

The starch they produce - the soul of kuzu powder - is stored in the roots during the winter.

15:39

Kuzu trees only grow deep in the mountains, far from roads, so roots are dug up by hand even today.

15:54

This is kuzu.

15:57

This is the roots of these trees that becomes the kuzu powder that we've already seen.

16:05

But, wow, I had no idea that this is what it looks like in its natural state.

16:15

Today's haul: 17 kilograms.

16:19

Ikeda often hauls up to 40 kilograms by himself.

16:30

The roots are taken to a processing plant.

16:38

Around 20 kuzu pickers share the facility.

16:45

Hello. I'm Hunter.

16:49

Hunter! That's a mighty name.

16:52

Thanks. Nice to meet you.

16:54

I'm Takaki Kyusuke,
a 10th-generation kuzu producer.

16:58

Welcome.

17:00

Ten generations.

17:03

How long is that?

17:06

We've been doing this for over 200 years.

17:11

A document from 1828 shows how kuzu was produced back then.

17:21

With some modernization, the basics remain the same, as passed down over two centuries.

17:32

First, the roots are run through a compressor to create small fibrous pieces.

17:46

These are mixed with water and sent through pipes into a large sieve.

17:57

The starch dissolves and passes through a mesh filter.

18:07

That mixture gets stored in here.

18:10

Kuzu powder is now being precipitated from the liquid.

18:17

The white part is kuzu.

18:21

Very white.

18:23

This base material is called so-kuzu.

18:29

Once moisture is removed, it's sent to a powder processing factory.

18:37

Hunter's next stop is Akizuki, a castle town in the mountains of Fukuoka.

18:47

Thanks to the abundance of cold, natural spring water,

18:51

the area has been a key producer of kuzu powder since long ago.

18:59

- In here?
- Yes. That's kuzu.

19:04

Starch purification is the most important step.

19:08

First, so-kuzu and spring water are placed in a large vat.

19:13

The starch components precipitate over three days.

19:16

The leftover water, containing impurities, is then discarded.

19:25

We repeat the process 10 times,
removing impurities.

19:28

The purer it gets, the whiter it becomes.

19:32

I see.

19:35

After about a month, large clumps begin to form.

19:46

These are taken out and flattened by hand.

19:53

Doing this releases trapped air, which would cause fermentation.

20:03

Air bubbles burst with every hit.

20:11

The kuzu air-dries for six to 12 months.

20:15

As moisture is released slowly over time, a fine, soluble powder is formed.

20:28

This is where we dry it.

20:31

So this is how it's done.

20:34

It makes a certain sound
when it's good and dry.

20:41

It's ready?

20:42

You can tell by the squeaky sound.

20:52

The long process is complete.

20:55

However, 100 grams of root only makes 7 grams of precious white powder.

21:04

We only use the best batches,
so it's often called white gold.

21:10

That sounds expensive.

21:13

The whole process, from harvest
to production, takes up to 1.5 years.

21:19

And only a portion of that is used,
so it's as precious as gold.

21:28

It's amazing that this all started
with digging up roots.

21:36

Takaki will show Hunter a recipe that can be made at home.

21:43

This is kuzu-yu.

21:48

You can make it at home.
Just add boiling water to powder.

21:56

Stir to thicken it, then add ginger.

21:59

Ginger?

22:07

Nice and thick.

22:10

Yummy.

22:12

It's something a parent or grandparent would make.

22:16

Like when you have a cold or stomach ache.
This would make it all better.

22:25

Nice.

22:26

Kuzu has a long shelf life, so, really, you can make this anytime you want.

22:32

It's easy!

22:33

In the past, kuzu was often used for medicinal purposes.

22:42

It's amazing what only water and kuzu can do.

22:56

Back in Tokyo, Hunter heads to Minami-aoyama.

23:02

This restaurant fuses Japanese and French cuisine.

23:11

Chef Narukami Masakazu is a big fan of kuzu.

23:20

What does kuzu mean to you?

23:26

I make French cuisine,
so sauces are very important.

23:35

Kuzu is easy to work with,
so I use it for sauces a lot.

23:47

You make sauce with kuzu?

23:51

Right. I'll make two kinds today.

23:59

For the first sauce, port and red wines are simmered down to a paste.

24:09

Sake, mirin, and soy sauce are added for a Japanese touch.

24:17

Then, he adds beef bone fond de veau.

24:25

Kuzu dissolved in water brings it all together.

24:35

Normally, you'd use gelatin or fats like oil and butter.

24:41

But kuzu is a healthier way to tie flavors together.

24:49

For this, kuzu is used instead of butter.

24:54

Getting thicker.

24:57

Nice.

25:03

Chicken liver and vegetables placed in wine and kuzu sauce.

25:14

Itadakimasu.

25:22

I can taste the liver.

25:25

And the sauce adds a slight sweetness.

25:28

Right.

25:30

People say French food is too rich.

25:35

That's because the French dishes that were
once popular in Japan used a lot of butter.

25:48

Getting rich flavor without heavy ingredients,
that's the beauty of using kuzu.

26:00

Now for the next sauce.

26:06

He adds kuzu to fish and vegetable stocks to make a savory kuzu-an that's placed over flan.

26:18

Everything is so soft.

26:33

"Oishii."

26:35

There are many ways to thicken a sauce.

26:40

Why use kuzu?

26:44

You can use corn or potato starch,
but that makes things heavy.

26:52

Kuzu is lighter and easier on the palate.

27:01

It has a nice sheen, but doesn't look so heavy.

27:07

That's the great thing about kuzu.

27:13

It's a special ingredient.

27:17

At the beginning of this episode, I knew absolutely nothing about kuzu.

27:21

Because if you see the kuzu powder, you don't immediately know what it takes to make that.

27:28

We've eaten the food, of course. We went to the mountains and we dug up kuzu.

27:33

We went to the factory that processes the kuzu powder and,

27:38

you know, now that I understand the step-by-step process, it's really more than just a food item.

27:45

It's a lot deeper than that.

27:46

And I learned a lot.

27:48

And I hope you did, too.

27:52

In Tokyo, every ingredient has its own story.