Festival Horses: Galloping for the Deities in Shinto Rituals

Horses take center stage in the ancient capital's events, such as two May festivals—Aoi Matsuri boasting ornate historical attire and the 1,200-year-old Fujinomori-sai.

A trick called Under the Bridle in the Kakeuma Shinji
A trick called Repelling Arrows in the Kakeuma Shinji
Sacred horse
The Kamo Kurabe Uma horse race

Transcript

00:09

Equestrians have been devoted participants in annual Shinto rites.

00:19

Facing danger on the fly, generations have performed for the deities.

00:27

None of us work with horses in our professional lives.

00:32

We all pull together for the sake of the festival.

00:39

It's that simple.

00:44

Horses figure prominently in various Shinto rituals in the ancient capital.

00:53

Steeds exhibiting swiftness and beauty were seen as messengers of the deities.

00:58

They were regarded with awe, and rituals involving them date back to around a millennium.

01:10

We can't let this custom die. We must pass it on as it is.

01:19

That's the meaning of preserving tradition.

01:27

Horse and human become one in the presence of the deities.

01:34

Core Kyoto explores the culture of equestrians and steeds

01:38

as they fulfill ancient roles in Shinto rituals.

01:57

Kifune Jinja has a heritage dating back some 1,600 years.

02:05

Legend suggests it began as a small shrine built by the mother of Japan's first emperor.

02:14

The sanctuary worships the deity of water, the source of all life.

02:19

Imperial envoys prayed here for the nation's peace.

02:26

Some Shinto shrines have statues of horses on their grounds.

02:30

Kifune Jinja is rare in that it has steeds of black and white.

02:36

Kifune Shrine was originally linked with rainfall.

02:41

The emperor would send a messenger offering a black horse to yield rain -

02:45

or a white one for sunshine.

02:50

The tradition began with live steeds, but it simplified into wooden plaques -

02:56

depicting horses, explaining today's votive tablets.

03:07

Today, these votive plaques are found at Shinto shrines throughout Japan, many exhibiting horses.

03:18

Worshippers inscribe them with prayers or words of gratitude then hang them near the shrine.

03:28

I prayed for marital harmony.

03:35

Horses are deeply intertwined with the Shinto faith at the city's ancient shrines.

03:47

Kamigamo Jinja was founded in 677.

03:55

One of Kyoto's oldest sanctuaries,

03:57

the shrine has long been revered for bringing peace to the imperial court.

04:07

On holidays, a sacred horse known as a "shinme" greets arriving worshippers.

04:16

The Ashige breed is selected for its coat which whitens as the horse ages.

04:24

The role of the "shinme" was to transport the deities -

04:30

explaining its importance here at Kamigamo Jinja.

04:38

The "shinme" plays an integral role in shrine life.

04:42

One New Year ritual upholds the belief that sighting a white horse banishes evil spirits.

04:53

The Kamigamo "shinme" resides at nearby Kyoto Sangyo University throughout the year.

05:01

The university's equestrian club, multiple winner of national championships,

05:05

has raised "shinme" for over half a century.

05:11

Around 1965, Kamigamo Jinja revived festivals incorporating the "shinme."

05:25

They asked our equestrian club to provide a steed.

05:30

We've been overseeing care of "shinme" ever since.

05:38

Two club members currently tend the "shinme."

05:41

Since the steed was originally a racehorse, they train him to be calm around people.

05:49

The previous "shinme" was beautifully cared for.

05:56

I want to uphold the standard set by earlier club members.

06:02

We may be the only ones in Kyoto, and I'm proud to have this privilege.

06:14

The "shinme" is brought to Kamigamo Jinja at 10 a.m. on Sundays and holidays.

06:39

He is led to the stable along the main approach of the shrine.

06:48

Visitors are welcome to offer him carrots.

06:57

I felt the sanctity of the moment. I'm glad I met him.

07:11

Aoi Matsuri supposedly originated about 1,400 years ago

07:16

with a divine proclamation to banish evil spirits by racing horses.

07:25

The luxurious parade of costumes illustrates the splendor of the Heian aristocracy.

07:35

The Kamo Kurabe Uma horse race launches the parade at Kamigamo Jinja.

07:42

It goes back 930 years and involves two teams competing for speed.

07:58

- How was the race?
- We have a winner.

08:04

Custom dictates that more wins by the horse rider in red indicates a good year ahead.

08:14

The ritual is upheld by the Kamo clan, descendants of the shrine's priests.

08:22

Though clan members are now scattered geographically and vocationally,

08:26

they gather annually for the race.

08:31

The festival is huge, encompassing the entire grounds.

08:37

We're striving to ensure it continues for another millennium or two.

08:49

Practice for the May event begins in March.

08:56

Competitors run the entire course at full speed.

09:12

On this rainy afternoon, the members take their rehearsals indoors.

09:20

The riders practice on wooden horses in keeping with the tradition.

09:33

The manner in which the horses are ridden in the Kamigamo Kurabe Uma is elaborately defined.

09:41

This has continued for 931 years, but we missed two years during Covid.

09:50

That third year, it took tremendous energy to revive the event.

09:57

But we can't let this custom die. We must pass it on as is.

10:02

In a sense, that's the meaning of preserving tradition.

10:12

The Kamo clan proudly maintains its millennium-old lineage and traditions.

10:37

Fujinomori Jinja, which stands in the Fushimi area, had close ties to the imperial family and samurai.

10:50

Legend has it that the shrine was founded over 1,800 years ago.

10:56

Empress Jingu was passing through on her return from a battle she had won in Korea -

11:03

and heard that this was sacred land, inhabited by deities.

11:08

So, she founded the shrine and dedicated a large battle flag and armament.

11:16

Once the legend took root,

11:18

worshippers brought military and equestrian equipment as offerings,

11:22

and the shrine became known for conveying success in warfare.

11:29

This resulted in the horseback-riding ritual known as the Kakeuma Shinji.

11:38

In 781, the emperor's younger brother prayed for victory at the shrine

11:43

before travelling to the country's northeast to quell a rebellion.

11:54

This spawned a ritual demonstrating sophisticated battlefield equestrian skills as a prayer for nationwide peace.

12:05

That event continues today at the shrine's main approach.

12:13

Riders perform acrobatics while racing their steeds along the 180-meter course.

12:25

The Kakeuma Preservation Society, which keeps the tradition alive, practices one month in advance.

12:36

Two horses are brought in for this one day.

12:43

The tack they use is comprised of traditional items handed down over generations.

12:49

This type of saddle was used by 15th- and 16th-century warriors.

12:56

Today, we will stand in place and review acrobatic style.

13:15

The society members are shrine parishioners who divide up the roles of rider and steward.

13:24

We all consider it our responsibility to pass these traditions on to the next generation.

13:33

It's not easy, but we all work day and night, sharing that goal.

13:41

This is the only day for rehearsal.

13:44

Moreover, the riders will not experience the actual track,

13:47

nor meet their horse, until the actual day.

13:52

Of course I'm afraid, and I've been told that if I lose that fear, I will fall.

13:58

So all I want to think about is mastering the skill.

14:08

Okada Toshiaki, now 67, began riding at age 13, perfecting his skills for over half a century.

14:18

He reluctantly retired two years ago, but he remains involved as a coach.

14:31

This year, as the race approaches, his mind increasingly focuses on one thought.

14:38

The festival makes me regret retiring.

14:46

Because if I don't ride, who will?

14:55

He does though consider riding again if his physical condition allows.

15:02

Fujiwara Yuuki is currently the oldest rider.

15:05

He is in his early 40s.

15:09

Following in his father's and grandfather's footsteps,

15:12

Fujiwara is best known for the Weeping Wisteria trick,

15:15

fooling the opponent into believing he has been struck by an arrow.

15:21

Fujiwara's two sons carry on the family skills.

15:26

I'm the third-generation rider, so these two are the fourth.

15:30

They said they want to ride, so now is their chance.

15:39

13-year-old Shinjiro, his second son, made his debut in 2024.

15:45

I really wanted to ride like the rest of my family.

15:51

I'm excited to join them.

15:56

A few days after the rehearsal, the Fujiwara family reviews videos of past riding events.

16:07

Since there are no actual practice runs, these sessions are critical.

16:17

I'm grateful that my children want to participate in a traditional event.

16:25

Still, it's a tradeoff, because I'm terrified that they may be severely injured.

16:40

My heart races every year.

16:44

Since they're risking their lives, I just hope they make it through safely.

17:02

Fujinomori Jinja hosts its eponymous festival on May 5th.

17:12

It originated as a festival to ward off evil spirits with the scent of irises.

17:20

The festival traces back to the mid-9th century

17:23

with prayers for the emperor's longevity and peace throughout the land.

17:36

Portable shrines transporting the deities are carried out in the morning.

17:44

Crafted in 1799 by parishioners who pooled their wealth,

17:48

they retain their resplendent appearance even today.

17:57

The drum and fife corps, and samurai warriors that follow the portable shrines, are also local residents.

18:07

The parade exits the shrine, enlivening the town as it passes by.

18:17

After the procession has left,

18:19

the Kakeuma Preservation Society prepares the grounds for the main event to come.

18:29

Okada, who retired two years ago, is on hand to assist,

18:33

dressed in the battle attire of a rider.

18:37

After 50 years riding, the body remembers what to do, so it'll work out.

18:47

But in the end, it's down to the horse.

18:55

As organizer of the riders,

18:57

Fujiwara offers younger members specific pointers on handling their mounts.

19:04

Once the horse sets off, go straight, just left of center. Got it?

19:12

The riders must be alert as they are running the event cold.

19:21

The horses arrive.

19:27

A contractor provides the horses, all of which are new to the event every year.

19:38

Fujiwara's eldest son Kotaro keeps an eagle eye on the situation.

19:43

This is his third year as a rider.

19:48

It's scary, and the tension is rising.

19:53

But the only thing I can do is picture myself riding well.

20:03

By 1 p.m., thousands of festival-goers have filled the approach to the shrine and the event begins.

20:13

There are seven traditional riding tricks.

20:16

As new horses participate each year,

20:18

the riders abandon tricks if the timing feels off.

20:22

The rule is strictly enforced to minimize risk.

20:29

Fujiwara Yuuki is the first rider this year.

20:36

He makes the first run without performing a trick to acclimate the horse.

20:59

The simple run identifies the start and end points for the horse,

21:03

while the rider assesses the animal's personality and condition.

21:13

Next, Fujiwara's second son Shinjiro makes his debut.

21:28

I was so tense that I don't remember a thing.

21:32

The horse just flew.

21:37

Riders begin the tricks once the horses get the feel of the event.

21:41

Veteran-rider Okada Toshiaki decides to make a comeback.

21:49

Biting down on a short sword,

21:51

he tries the Under the Bridle trick in which he is dodging enemy arrows.

22:09

Okada thought he was performing the trick like clockwork until he accidentally dropped the sword.

22:17

Nevertheless, his well-honed skills enabled completion of the trick.

22:28

It has been three years.

22:32

The sword hit the horse's head and fell.

22:38

Maybe I'll try it again.

22:43

Every year, Murata Hiroto attempts a new trick.

22:50

This year, he has chosen to write one kanji in calligraphy on horseback.

22:54

During battle, a single written character quickly updated allies on the enemy's status.

23:03

Here, the "backward horse" is an auspicious kanji.

23:11

This year, the horse ran a bit slower, which helped.

23:15

In the end, unity between man and horse is key.

23:21

The event originally demonstrated the great horsemanship needed in battle.

23:29

The preservation society members perform with amazing skill,

23:33

looking as if they have been practicing for weeks.

23:40

Fujiwara's older son Kotaro is next in line to ride.

24:01

Kotaro flaunts his skill in galloping past the enemy while repelling their arrows.

24:10

I'm glad I got through it safely.

24:15

Unfortunately, the horse wasn't up to the Weeping Wisteria trick this time.

24:24

This is the third year for Okada's grandson, Kota, to ride.

24:30

It's scary to ride, but that makes you more likely to fall, so I try to overcome it.

24:38

This year, Kota will try the Under the Bridle trick his grandfather perfected.

24:55

Great job!

25:07

I felt great when I finished. I didn't fall - that's the main thing.

25:15

After observing his grandson, Okada takes another turn.

25:24

He takes off, knife between his teeth.

25:40

Nobody would imagine the 67-year-old had not done this for two years.

25:50

Fujiwara closes the ritual.

26:15

His signature trick, the Weeping Wisteria, went off without a hitch.

26:36

It was my first time.

26:38

The galloping horses were so powerful, and the tricks were amazing.

26:44

The locals treasure the festival. The excitement was palpable.

27:00

I'm happy no one was hurt.

27:03

We succeeded in showing the next generation this offering to the deities.

27:11

Can I do this again?

27:15

Until you're 70.

27:18

- Three more years?
- You can do it.

27:25

No comment.

27:30

Horses have bridged the gap between humans and the deities since antiquity.

27:37

They eminate a divine aura during rituals in the ancient capital.

27:44

Bearing their riders' mission, the horses valiantly race into the future.