Kyoto has a culture of ordering personalized goods, yet it is more than just placing an order. As Japan's ancient capital, the city attracted diversified artisans. Many artisan-customer relationships span generations, fostering strong bonds of trust. This engenders products of high quality through constructive communication, ensuring satisfying results for both creator and receiver. Follow Nagamatsu Hitomi, who cherishes the spirit of bespoke goods, as she visits her trusted purveyors.
Kimono, Japan's traditional attire.
Those who weave them carefully select fabric, motifs, and sizes, suited to the wearer's tastes.
"Kyougashi," or traditional Kyoto confections.
Based on consultations with the confectioner, a tea gathering host offers
custom-made sweets that infuse a sense of seasonality into the occasion.
Beyond kimono and sweets, a bespoke culture - the partnership between an artisan and a client -
has been passed down in Kyoto over generations.
Such partnerships have thrived amidst a concentration of artisans
from a myriad of specialties in this city of 1.4 million people.
I always feel invigorated when
approached about a project,
and I'm always ready
to make it happen.
Today, made-to-order services are blossoming anew in Kyoto, adapting to the needs of modern lifestyles.
Artisans work closely with clients to create personal items and special gifts.
Since this was once
the Heian capital,
skilled artisans have worked here for
generations, delivering immediate solutions.
Kyoto is truly
a remarkable town.
Core Kyoto examines the bespoke culture nurtured by craftsmanship and relationships of trust.
Gion, Kyoto's renowned entertainment district.
One of its quiet side streets is home to a shop and gallery.
Nagamatsu Hitomi offers craftwork for use in daily life.
She often travels to Europe to procure merchandise, and her marketing often partners Western antiques with items made by local artisans.
The shop also offers original creations, such as this popular tray, a collaboration with a woodworker.
It was inspired by a silver salver which Nagamatsu purchased in Europe.
The Japanese persimmon wood features beautiful shades of unusual black stains.
Nagamatsu also orders handcrafted pieces for the store.
This simple plaque unites a tiny antique plate with old nails, making a unique interior decoration.
Handmade nails are
so finely executed.
The microcosmic world of
this antique plate is a perfect match.
I think the time and memories invested
in creating a singular item like this -
are to be savored, along with
the joy at seeing the completed work.
That joy continues as the item
is displayed in the home.
These bespoke items
afford us time to savor.
Nagamatsu's passion for bespoke culture is mirrored in her personal life.
She brings a new request to this decorative cord shop founded in the 16th century.
This cup and saucer she purchased in the UK reflect a Japanese-inspired design.
Nagamatsu is looking for a decorative cord to secure the paulownia box, she had custom-made to house them.
This is the early 1700s Worcester porcelain
I mentioned on the phone.
I bought it when my daughter
and I travelled through the UK.
Nagamatsu trusts the box and cord will protect this gift for her daughter, who is studying in the UK.
Wada Isao is the 15th generation of his family to produce "Sanada himo," a coveted type of cord.
Warp and weft threads are intertwined to create an extremely narrow weave, the slenderest of which is only 6mm in width.
Pressure is applied as the cord is woven.
"Sanada himo" uses twice the threads of usual textiles, so they are tough and not easily stretched.
Over 2,000 patterns exist, some only available to select clients.
These three patterns are exclusively used by Kyoto's prominent trio of tea schools.
"Omotesenke"'s cords are solid in color, while those of the other two schools are bordered in a contrasting color.
Each school has a distinctive way of tying the cord.
The cord pattern serves as an ID.
Each family's secret way of tying
the cord functions as a password.
In ancient times, samurai feared
assassination by poisoned tea.
Once unraveled, these knots were impossible
to properly retie by potential assassins.
Some unique knots developed by
individual families still exist today.
"Sanada himo" are revered and are used to secure paulownia boxes holding valuables, such as tea ceremony utensils and vases.
I sketched some designs
with a British flair for you.
"Arigato gozaimasu."
Nagamatsu explains her preferences as the pair determine a pattern from the samples inspired by the British flag.
I had some fun with this by
alternating the blocks.
Since the British have a sense of humor,
something playful might be good.
Could you add a bit more
red somewhere?
We could add a red line here at the edge,
where it wouldn't be too conspicuous.
"Naruhodo."
The final pattern complements the color and design of the cup and saucer.
It's a bit different from the
classic designs we usually handle.
I'm looking forward to creating
something intriguing.
All workshop tasks are performed by hand, from dyeing to weaving.
Plant-dyeing is a method that extracts pigment from the roots, leaves, and fruits of plants and trees.
Tomomi, Isao's wife, handles the dyeing.
I find that the power of botanicals is infused
into the dye and adds warmth to the cord.
The next step is weaving.
The weft is hammered after it passes through the warp threads.
Force and pressure help produce a sturdy cord.
Consistent force and rhythm are key elements of weaving, ensuring uniform width and preventing pattern slippage.
Another secret is double weaving, a folding technique yielding a sturdier cord.
Weaving to produce a tubular shape
is unique to "Sanada himo."
It creates stronger edges than single-layer
weaving, and that helps minimize damage.
"Sanada himo" blends durability with design through laborious effort.
As a result, less than two meters of cord can be woven in a single day.
Nagamatsu's order required about two months to fulfill.
- This is the finished cord.
- It's stunning.
- Here you are.
- Thank you. It's charming.
Like the paulownia boxes, our cords are
made to last some 300 years.
As an artisan, it is an honor to be
part of something created centuries ago,
with the fruits of our labors passed on to
grandchildren and generations to come.
There is a storybook feeling in knowing
that an heirloom rests in this box -
to be cherished by the next generation.
I can't wait to see how this
blends into my daughter's life.
Nagamatsu is meticulous about her thank-you notes.
She pens one to Wada.
And she prepares a scented insert to accompany it.
Nagamatsu has her own bespoke fragrance, a blend of sandalwood and cinnamon.
The outer leaf bears her drawing of the cord, as a gesture of appreciation to Wada.
I often receive scented letters.
The moment I open the envelope and inhale
its rejuvenating scent, I feel pampered.
I can feel the sender's presence.
I always keep in mind what
a treasure fragrance is.
Nagamatsu's bespoke incense is created by a shop established in 1772.
The company manufactures and markets a variety of aromatic products.
Incense is said to have been introduced from the Asian mainland in the 6th century along with Buddhism.
Heian nobility from the 9th century began developing a culture dedicated to the appreciation of aroma.
The Heian aristocrats enjoyed the
tradition of creating their own incense.
They scented their kimono with
the aromatic smoke.
Creating a pleasant aroma
was a sign of refinement.
As "samurai" society evolved from the 13th century,
fragrant wood began to circulate and the practice of enjoying scents gained traction.
From the 17th century, it further spread among individuals of status,
who created their own fragrant combinations from aromatic wood and other materials.
Hotta Chihiro is an incense specialist who has developed over 300 fragrances.
The shop safeguards the recipes made for individual clients.
This allows them to fulfill follow-up orders and make any improvements clients request.
Aroma preference is a personal matter
and directly reveals a person's inner feelings.
This makes developing incense for individuals
both challenging and interesting.
In Kyoto, requests for custom orders come from a variety of sources.
A millennium ago, the natural surroundings of Saga-Arashiyama attracted Heian nobility for relaxation and recreation.
Festivals reenact the atmosphere of those bygone days.
Boating upriver brings visitors to an inn nestled in the valley.
The lodging exudes the graceful leisure of the Heian aristocracy.
Guests entering their rooms are embraced by a refreshing, sweet, floral fragrance.
The incense was custom-made by Hotta and is encased in a sachet of Nishijin brocade, a traditional Kyoto textile.
We requested incense to
harmonize with this setting.
It should complement the image of Arashiyama
and its aristocratic visitors of ancient times.
This fragrance builds on sandalwood
and cinnamon used by Heian aristocrats,
but also incorporates
a modern touch.
We hope the aroma enriches the
daily lives of each guest.
This is how we create original scents that
meet our client's special requests.
Bespoke culture became ingrained in multiple disciplines over Kyoto's 1200-year history.
Nagamatsu's father was an art dealer who handled antique dishes and calligraphy.
Nagamatsu often accompanied her parents on excursions to custom order kimono and other garments.
This had a great impact on her life.
We would go to frame shops, kimono stores,
and painters' studios.
They casually took me to places
children usually don't get to see.
It was a wonderful environment.
This doll house is what heightened her awareness of special-ordered products.
Her elementary school was far from home, and her father could not bear her
not having friends nearby to play with, so he gifted her a handmade doll house.
The door opens.
This is a manifestation of love and dreams.
It must've been difficult to make.
Reflecting on my father's feelings, I see the joy
of creating something that brings happiness.
It's a guiding principle in my own life.
I will treasure this forever.
Nagamatsu's sensitivity to bespoke items, like these, was largely influenced by her memories and experiences.
One frame in Nagamatsu's gallery was made by her favorite frame shop.
It is located some 1.3 km away in a lively shopping arcade.
First opened in 1896, the shop has framed works for art museums, dealers, and galleries.
Yamamoto Masaji carefully handcrafts each frame as he strives for a warm and gentle texture that evokes nostalgia.
He carves the frame edging to generate an uneven finish.
A burner adds a unique softness and texture.
We utilize this mellowing technique on
all our original Western-style frames.
Part of our job as framers is to find
new ways to give that old-fashioned look.
Yamamoto's style blends classical European framing techniques
with Kyoto mounting technology, which uses cloth and paper to finish scrolls.
The result has earned him respect from local artists.
Nagamatsu requests Yamamoto's help in preparing a gift for a friend who lives overseas.
Nagamatsu asked an artist friend of hers to paint a few pictures that would be suitable for her friend's son.
The pictures are renderings of carp streamers, which are customarily hung throughout Japan in May in prayer for children's health and success.
Nagamatsu also brought an old cloth boasting indigo stripes on white to decorate the frame.
I bought this because the design seemed
so natural and perfect for the paintings.
Nagamatsu envisions the carp streamers dancing in the sky, which the old cloth would depict.
This should give you
a better idea.
Also, Nagamatsu has yet to decide which of the two pictures she wants to frame.
Since it's for a Japanese friend living in the UK,
domestically sourced wood might be a nice choice.
Jindai Japanese cedar is one
of the most valued cedars.
This rare cedar lay buried under volcanic ash for perhaps a millennium, retaining its shape without rotting.
Yamamoto thinks the wood's gentle tones, which are not found in live trees, would complement the painting.
This natural shade is great.
Yamamoto also had an idea for accenting the mat between the frame and painting.
This mat is a different material
and adds another effect.
- This gives it much more definition.
- It's fabulous.
- They harmonize well together.
- I'll go with this.
Based on Yamamoto's advice, the cloth will be used to accent the frame.
I originally wanted to use the
fabric on the entire surface,
but our discussions led me to other images
and helped me find something new.
Nagamatsu and Yamamoto are old acquaintances, as their fathers were friends and worked together.
It's only natural that I've patronized the shop
for years, and I still learn new things.
I learned so much from her father.
He brought many projects, through
which I broadened my own horizons.
I feel I am able to
return the favor.
I glean new ideas from many people
and tuck those ideas in a mental drawer,
pulling them out another day to offer
unique suggestions to customers.
Kyoto enables this cycle of learning
and passing knowledge on.
The framing is carried out at this workshop in the suburbs.
Jindai Japanese cedar has a unique characteristic not shared by other types of wood.
This is more fragile
than our usual material.
Since it is rather soft, we must handle it
with care, so it doesn't crack or split.
We treat it with extra caution.
The joints are cut at 45-degree angles.
The wood is shaved slowly to prevent the material from cracking.
The frame's four sides are set with string and blocks to apply pressure.
Speed is of the essence, as the work must be completed before the adhesive hardens.
The next task is to strengthen the adhered joints.
Thin pieces are inserted into the four corners to secure them.
Nails are not used, as they might rust.
Nagamatsu's old cloth is backed with "washi" paper and then cut into thin strips.
The spacing between the indigo lines is random, so the most promising areas are selected and cut.
The cloth is carefully arranged to ensure that a white section rests at each corner.
He got the striped pattern to match up
at each corner despite the unevenness.
It's a miracle that he was able to
format and finish it so beautifully.
Yamamoto delivers the completed frame to Nagamatsu in person.
Look how beautiful it is. My friend will
be delighted. It's lovely and lively.
We decided to use the old cloth
sparingly. It became an accent.
It has quite a punch.
It's just as you predicted
as refreshing as a spring breeze.
I am so pleased.
"Arigato gozaimasu."
Bespoke culture is enhanced by the relationship of trust between the client and the artisan.
It is based on people's consideration toward each other, nurtured over a long period of time.
The world revolves around
individuals interacting.
People communicate, share understandings,
and discover each other's needs.
Artisans and shopkeepers
find perfect solutions.
Special orders are about discovering
what meets the individual's needs.
There are so many artisans working
within two kilometers of my home.
I learn so much from them, and
that leads to the next experience.
Kyoto is truly
a remarkable town.