Minamiyamashiro, in the very south of Kyoto Pref., was once an important transportation hub, and many Buddhist temples were built to spiritually watch over this secluded region. Around the 15th century, the area escaped the civil unrest that razed Kyoto, and its valuable temples and treasures, some of which are more than a millennium old, survived unscathed. Discover the 11 remaining temples through the activities of a close-knit association that preserves Buddhist culture beyond denominations.
In the 15th century, civil strife known as the Ounin War erupted and devastated the capital.
More distant areas, however, escaped the destruction.
Minamiyamashiro stretches along the Kizu River in southern Kyoto Prefecture.
Even today, it retains its former name - Yamashiro Province.
Due to its proximity to the prior capital, known today as Nara,
the region had strong ties with the Six Sects of Nara Buddhism.
And, branches of Nara temples were constructed in Minamiyamashiro area.
They escaped the ravages of war and house important cultural assets,
that date back to before the civil unrest.
Some locations have been sacred places of prayer since before those times.
However, due to their remoteness from downtown Kyoto, they receive few visitors.
This prompted some temples to form a cooperative association.
In Minamiyamashiro, there are
places that don't resemble temples at all,
and other spots housing
wonderful Buddhist statues.
We formed an association of ancient temples
to promote this relatively unknown area.
Eleven temples have united, across religious sects,
to spread the word about their charm and beauty.
Core Kyoto explores the hidden history and treasures of the temples in the remote region of Minamiyamashiro.
The city of Kizugawa lies on the border with Nara Prefecture.
A historic temple is situated above the city in the mountains.
In 735, the emperor is said to have ordered Kaijusen-ji to be built in prayer
for the incident-free construction of Toudai-ji's Great Buddha in Nara, the capital at the time.
Five years later, the capital moved to the base of these mountains, and was called Kuni-kyou.
Fifty-four years later, it moved again to present-day Kyoto.
At Kaijusen-ji, prayers were offered for peace in the capital and the nation.
The principal image of worship is the Eleven-faced Kannon, created around the 10th century.
Originally secreted away, the wooden statue is now on display to the public,
and its gentle countenance has soothed the hearts of many visitors.
Chief Priest Sawaki Jouken devotes prayers daily, and carries on the temple's 1,300-year legacy.
The five-storied, 17-meter pagoda beside the main hall
was built in 1214, and is designated a National Treasure.
Its ground level is adorned with decorative eaves,
a rare addition that makes it appear to have six stories.
Now part of Kyoto Prefecture, Minamiyamashiro
was originally within Nara's cultural sphere.
Monks from large temples
withdrew for study and ascetic training -
in this region south of Kyoto,
away from the confusion of the capital.
The pagoda was built to enshrine Buddha's remains.
They are said to be housed in the tower-shaped container in this small shrine.
The interior, which is closed to the public, remains as it was when it was built.
The original statues of the Four Heavenly Kings, that surrounded the container,
are now housed in the Nara National Museum.
The statues have been restored and thanks to their excellent condition,
they have been designated Important Cultural Properties.
Despite these valuable items, Kaijuusen-ji has a lower public profile than temples in Kyoto or Nara.
To spread the word that a region rich
in ancient Buddhist culture existed here -
we formed the Minamiyamashiro
Ancient Temple Association.
We continue efforts
to increase that awareness.
In 2014, Sawaki and fellow monks from 11 temples with National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties
created the association, and conduct a variety of promotional efforts to boost the number of visitors.
The Nara National Museum is holding
a special exhibition to introduce -
the Buddhist culture
of Minamiyamashiro.
With 140 cultural items,
this event will help visitors understand
what an incredible region this is.
Sawaki decided to include the Four Heavenly Kings.
The treasures of Joruri-ji, one of the temples in the association,
provided the impetus for staging the exhibition.
The temple complex was said to have been built in 1178.
The garden depicts the world of Pure Land Buddhism, which flourished at the time.
The west side of the pond, where the main hall stands, represents the Western Pure Land.
In the Eastern Paradise is a three-storied pagoda, designated a National Treasure.
Originally located near Kyoto's Imperial Palace, it was relocated here in 1178.
Yakushi Buddha, who alleviates human suffering, is enshrined inside the pagoda,
which is closed to the public.
In its hand is a pot of medicine offering physical and spiritual healing.
The structure and contents of the main hall in the Western Pure Land are designated National Treasures.
Lined up inside are nine statues of Amida Buddha, who rescues souls after death.
They date back to around the 12th century.
In Kyoto during the second half of the 11th century,
people believed Buddhist teachings were in decline
and the world would descend into chaos 2,000 years after the historical Buddha's death.
Hence, they sought salvation in the Western Pure Land,
where after death they would be greeted by nine Amida Buddhas,
one for each of the nine stages of a person's death.
There were said to have been 33 halls, each lined with nine Amida statues in Kyoto, after it became the capital,
but all burned down during the civil unrest of the 15th century.
The sole remaining hall that holds nine Amida statues is at Joruri-ji.
At present, two of the nine statues are undergoing restoration at the Nara National Museum.
The special exhibition will commemorate their completion.
So few people had heard
of Minamiyamashiro.
We want everyone to know
about the wonderful things -
each temple in this amazing area
has to offer.
It would be nice to spread
the word even further.
On this day, Kaijusen-ji's chief priest and an official from the Nara National Museum
visit Joruri-ji to examine items for display in the exhibition.
The quality and quantity of the legacy
of Buddhist statuary here -
is perhaps unmatched in other regions.
Completion of the repair of Joruri-ji's
Nine Amida Buddhas marks a milestone,
offering the chance to introduce the local
Buddhist culture on an unprecedented scale.
We are hoping for a successful event.
Jindo-ji stands peacefully in a mountain village in the Kizu River basin.
Though small, this temple established some 1400 years ago houses Important Cultural Properties.
A three-meter-tall statue of Zao Gongen is enshrined in the main hall.
Zao Gongen is the primary deity of Japanese mountain asceticism known as Shugendo.
The statue has been here for the 600 or so years since the structure was rebuilt.
Its seething expression is said to represent strength and the majesty of nature.
Few temples have Zao Gongen
as the principal image.
The Zao Hall was rebuilt in 1406 and
is now a designated Important Cultural Property.
The temple now belongs to the Shingon sect, and rituals as well as fire offerings are held by Shugendo ascetics annually.
To meet the everchanging times, Jindo-ji has mapped out its own unique form of worship,
as evidenced by its Buddhist statues.
Many statues, that once graced the main hall, are now housed in the repository,
to prevent theft and damage by fire.
This statue depicting En no Gyoja, the founder of Shugendo, reportedly dates back 600 years.
The statue to the right
depicts Aizen Myo-o,
who usually holds a bow and arrow
in the right and left hands.
This statue is unusual as the
bow and arrow face heaven.
Aizen Myo-o transforms lust into enlightenment
by shooting the light of stars with an arrow, to show humans the righteous path.
The statue to the far left
shows Fudo Myo-o.
This is the only one throughout Japan
with a completely white body,
making this a rare statue.
Both statues, slated for inclusion in the special Nara exhibition,
were created some 1,000 years ago.
Other equally precious statues reside in the temples of Minamiyamashiro.
Zenjo-ji is located in the north of Minamiyamashiro, near the tea growing area of Uji.
The main hall features a thatched roof, typical of 17th-century temple architecture.
In the 10th century, this was once the site of a villa belonging to the Fujiwara clan,
who held powerful influence in the capital.
It was later converted into a branch temple of Nara's Todai-ji, and named Zenjo-ji.
It fell into decline, but it was revived in 1680 with the arrival of a high priest named Gesshu.
Another sanctuary lies behind the main hall.
Enshrined in the middle is a wooden
statue of Zen Master Gesshu Soko.
The statue dates to approximately 1696,
the year Gesshu died.
This well-preserved work is said to be valuable as few statues of Gesshuu remain today.
The Soto Sect's principal image
is the Shaka Buddha,
but Zenjo-ji worships
the Eleven-faced Kannon,
currently housed in the repository.
There are 10 Buddhist statues from
the Fujiwara period in the repository,
all of which are designated
Important Cultural Properties.
These were once enshrined in nearby temples.
The Fujiwara period, a millennium ago, produced a graceful and exquisite culture
that is reflected in the Buddhist statuary.
Each of these two statues of heavenly kings were carved from a single piece of wood without marquetry.
The graceful curves display the sculptors' skill.
The Eleven-faced Kannon in the center is the most striking.
It is the temple's principal image and stands about three meters in height.
The compassionate Kannon graces mankind, alleviating all suffering.
The chief priest included it in the Nara exhibition.
Local residents know that
Zenjo-ji is an old temple,
but this allows us to introduce
Minamiyamashiro to more people,
ensuring that our Buddhist statuary
is passed on to future generations.
Mt. Kasagi, near the Kizu River, rises about 300 meters above sea level.
On its summit sits a temple.
Kasagi-dera was built around 1,350 years ago.
A mountain path winds beyond the gate.
The reason for the remote location of this temple lies in the principal image.
Once you proceed to this spot,
you see a boulder in front of you.
It is the source of everything
pertaining to this mountain,
including the reason for the temple and
why many people find their way here.
If you look up, you will see the Kasagi Stone
wedged between two boulders.
That gave its name
to the mountain and the village.
Some 1,350 years ago, Emperor Tenji's son almost fell from horseback
when he was on top of the boulder.
He prayed for help and was saved, giving rise to the belief
that deities dwelled within the rocks.
He left his hat to mark the spot where he was saved.
Another boulder lies beyond.
Straight ahead, you will see a boulder
about 15 meters high.
You may think it just a boulder, but look closer
and you will see a vague figure.
This Buddhist image carved in stone
is the principal statue of Kasagi-dera.
Records state that the hall which once
stood here burned down three times,
causing the granite surface
of the boulder to crack and fly off.
So unfortunately, you can
no longer see the figure.
This painting dating back to the 13th century shows Kasagi-dera and the Miroku Bosatsu
carved into the boulder next to a 13-story pagoda.
Miroku represents the
Buddha of the future
who will revisit Earth to
teach Buddhism and save us.
I think people came to pray here where Miroku,
who transcends time and space, will appear.
To the right, you will see three boulders
that have been named -
Miroku, Monju, and Yakushi
after the Buddhist deities.
Why did worshippers see Buddhist deities in these boulders long ago?
The spot was in fact a place of nature worship and it was believed that deities dwelt within the rocks.
That harmonized with 8th century Buddhism,
giving birth to the concept of rock-carved Buddhist images.
The boulders continue to attract worshippers.
Amazing.
This may be the first time
I have seen one this large.
I feel like the ancestors
created this with the future in mind.
There is yet another Buddhist rock image farther along the mountain path.
This is called Kokuzo.
It is smaller than Miroku, and there is
no record of when it was carved.
About six meters tall, this boddhisatva is said to possess all the wisdom and compassion of the vast universe
and to grace humans with knowledge and memory.
This statue of Bishamonten, the deity of war dating back to the early 13th century,
will also be included in the Nara exhibition.
Normally hidden away, the statue will be shared on this occasion to publicize the temple.
These temples do not
belong to the priests.
They were created by our ancestors,
and we are the bridge to the future.
We work to hand down these natural
surroundings and cultural objects -
and pray for the
happiness of humankind.
Shuuon'an, more commonly known as Ikkyuu-ji, was revived in 1456 by Ikkyuu Soujun, an eminent Zen monk.
The special exhibition will feature a portrait of him,
which is said to be a masterpiece of realism.
At age 74, Ikkyuu relocated his teahouse - Kokyuuan -
from the capital to the temple grounds to escape the Ounin civil war.
At the time, Kokyuuan had become a cultural salon of sorts,
with Ikkyuu entertaining literary guests with tea.
After his death, Ikkyuu's tomb was laid next to the teahouse.
Plum trees bloom beside the teahouse in early spring, when a special service is held.
On that occasion, the plum blossoms may be enjoyed from inside Kokyuuan,
which is normally closed to the public.
It feels as though you are looking at
a scroll or a painting come to life.
I think a place with such a long history as this
can only be experienced in Kyoto.
Tea and sweets close the special viewing.
This Zen tea etiquette is thought to be the origin of Japan's traditional tea gatherings.
When I serve matcha, most people worry
about how to drink it, about tea etiquette.
However, any etiquette is fine if it soothes
the mind. That is the whole point of tea.
I feel that in today's world, it is important
not to fret about the little things.
That was part of Ikkyuu' s teachings.
The year he died, Ikkyuu ordered a disciple to carve this wooden image of him.
The 88-year-old Zen master is said to have embedded hair from his own head and beard within it.
Ikkyuu threw open the temple doors and invited all manner of individuals to enter.
That spirit continues even today.
Minamiyamashiro offers a unique way to
relax the mind, different from Kyoto and Nara.
We continue to work together to promote
the many special features of our region.
Buddhist faith and statues have both been carefully preserved in these mountain temples.
Transcending space and time, they even now reach out a beckoning hand.