Dining with the Chef.

Let's explore Japanese cuisine in greater depth.

Japan is a chain of islands approximately 3,000 km long from North to South.

There is a large variation in climate,

and the terrain of each region has given rise to a diverse culture of food.

Our destination today is Iwate Prefecture, in the Tohoku region of northern Honshu.

With its majestic mountains, vast forests and pristine rivers,

Iwate abounds in natural beauty.

It's a treasure trove for delicious ingredients, including rice, wheat, and vegetables.

Today, we'll be exploring Iwate with Chef Watanabe Yasuhiro.

He teaches cooking in Tokyo, with a focus on Italian food.

He attracts a large following for his simple, delicious, and visually stunning recipes.

In Morioka, the capital city of Iwate, he encounters noodles dishes born from the cold winters of Tohoku.

This is tricky.

Welcome to Cook Around Japan: Morioka - The Great Noodle Expedition.

Morioka is famous for its noodles.

Many different styles have been created over the ages.

Let's begin with a look at a special dish that has long been eaten on festive occasions.

Hello, and welcome to Cook Around Japan.

I'm Chef Watanabe.

And this is "Wanko Soba," a local specialty of Iwate Prefecture.

"Wanko Soba" used to be served at banquets.

Noodles made from buckwheat are served together with a variety of side dishes.

The "soba" is served a little at a time in small, lacquered bowls.

Each guest is assigned a server.

It's a very unique style of serving. How did it come about?

It was a show of hospitality.

The idea was to allow guests at a banquet to eat their fill.

It was only possible to boil enough "soba" for about 10 people at a time.

So, the "soba" was divided into small bowls and served a little at a time.

This way, it could be enjoyed by many people.

The "soba" itself is delicious.

But the unusual way it's served has made "Wanko Soba" one of Morioka's major tourist attractions.

- Here you go.
- Thanks.

This is your 15th bowl. The record is 753.

What?! That's terrifying.

The noodles come seasoned with "dashi" and soy sauce.

There are a wide variety of other condiments, including wasabi and "Naganegi" long onions.

The "nameko" mushrooms and grated daikon radish are quite refreshing.

So many condiments.

To avoid keeping the customer waiting, the server refills the bowl as soon as it's emptied.

It's a style of serving born out of the spirit of hospitality.

Keep going!

Keep going!

I'm already quite full.

Put the lid on to stop.

But I'm holding chopsticks!

The idea is to encourage the customer to eat up.

So the "soba" keeps coming, as soon as the bowl is empty.

I'll refill the bowl whenever you give me a chance.

The "soba" keeps coming!

Well done.

That was awesome! I've never had "soba" like this before.

It's a serving style unique to Morioka. It's a lot of fun.

Local residents love to celebrate with "Wanko Soba."

It remains a favorite among people of all ages.

It must be nice to see the same children eating more bowls as they grow.

Yes, it's a sign of growth.

"Wanko Soba" is reserved for special occasions, but our next noodle dish is everyday fare.

Flat and thick wheat noodles are topped with meaty miso,

cucumbers and "Naganegi" long onions.

It's a local dish that's a popular choice for lunch, dinner, or as a snack with drinks.

It's inspired by a dish my grandfather had in Manchuria.

He adapted it to suit the tastes of the people of Morioka.

Inspired by a Chinese noodle dish, Morioka "Jajamen" was created about 70 years ago.

What makes it so special is the spicy miso sauce.

Ground meat, sesame seeds, shiitake mushrooms and other ingredients are mixed into the miso to make the special sauce.

The chewy noodles are slowly boiled for about 13 minutes,

then topped with the meat miso and other ingredients.

We've been in business for nearly 70 years, so people have grown up eating it.

The pungent flavor is addictive.

The proper way to eat Morioka "Jajamen," according to the locals, is to add chili oil, ginger, and garlic.

Then, mix it all up to enjoy the synergy of flavors.

Everyone eats the noodles their own way. Some like to load up on grated garlic.

It seems like a lot.

But if that's the way they like it, that's fine with me.

If you try it three times, I think you'll know what works best for you.

After eating the noodles, it's common to add an egg to the dish.

You mix it up with the remaining ingredients, plus hot soup,

so you can savor every last drop of the delicious miso.

My regulars always finish up with the soup.

The "Jajamen" and soup is a set meal that's eaten all year round.

Many customers come almost every day, lured by a taste unchanged for 70 years.

Morioka "Jajamen" is very much a part of the everyday diet.

It's a staple, just like rice.

Rice is integral to the Japanese diet.

So why are noodles so popular in Iwate?

With an abundance of flat land, Iwate has a long history of wet rice cultivation.

But the winters are harsh and cold, and there are times when the rice harvest is poor.

So farmers cultivate buckwheat and other grains resilient to cold.

This led to the creation of many noodle dishes using wheat and buckwheat flour.

The most famous ones have come to be known as the Three Great Noodles of Morioka.

We've looked at "Wanko Soba" and Morioka "Jajamen."

Now for the last of the Three Great Noodles.

Originating in the Korean Peninsula,

Morioka "Reimen" features semi-translucent noodles with a uniquely chewy texture, served in a cold soup.

Many Korean barbecue restaurants in Morioka serve "reimen."

Let's visit the restaurant that was instrumental in making Morioka "Reimen" a sensation across Japan.

We've come to a workshop run by a "reimen" restaurant,

where you get to try your hand at making the noodles.

What is Morioka "Reimen?"

It's a dish of smooth, starchy noodles served chilled in a rich beef broth.

It was introduced to Morioka from Pyongyang.

Let's start with the dough.

Morioka "Reimen" noodles are made by kneading wheat flour and potato starch together with boiling water.

It's much stretchier than pasta.

Potato starch is very fine, so it feels silky smooth.

Yes, quite different from 100% wheat flour.

It tastes better if you knead the dough quickly.

If you overwork the dough, it'll become too hard.

So, the boiled noodles won't be smooth.

You don't need any help.

It feels like a rice cake.

The dough is immediately placed in a noodle machine which presses the dough into thin noodles.

Wow!

Because the dough is squeezed out, the noodles have a much smoother and even texture

than noodles that have been cut from rolled-out dough.

The pressed-out noodles are cut into a pot of boiling water,

then left to cook for two and a half minutes.

You can make it in no time from scratch.

There's no need to let it rest.

That's right.

Once drained and rinsed in cold water, the noodles become semi-translucent,

a unique characteristic of Morioka "Reimen."

- This translucency is distinctive.
- Ah, I see.

Another characteristic is the stylish way the noodles are served.

- So you make a well?
- Yes.

- The top should be concave.
- I see.

This is tricky!

- The well will hold the egg.
- I see.

Typical toppings include a hard-boiled egg, sliced beef, cucumbers,

and a seasonal fruit like Japanese pears to refresh the palate.

And finally, a rich, chilled soup made from beef bones.

Morioka "Reimen" is served with a side of kimchi, to give a kick to the soup.

"Itadakimasu."

I've never eaten freshly made Morioka "Reimen" noodles before.

I can tell how chewy they are just by picking them up.

Very chewy!

A unique feature of Morioka "Reimen."

The soup is rich and flavorful.

Iwate is a cold place, so why are cold noodles so popular?

Today, we have advanced technology.

But in the past, wheat was best suited to our cold climate.

Also, wheat and starch keep well.

The workshop offers a rare opportunity to make Morioka "Reimen" from scratch.

No wonder it's popular with tourists from home and abroad.

This is a hands-on experience for both tourists and local families.

It's also a good way to promote Morioka "Reimen" across Japan.

The "Reimen" you've made yourself is extra special.

Everyone says it's the best.

There's nothing quite like it. It was a novel experience for me, too.

When visiting Morioka for its noodles, you can also enjoy plenty of scenic views.

In the 17th century, during the Edo period, the city flourished as a castle town.

You can enjoy a historic and traditional atmosphere, while admiring beautiful Japanese structures and gardens.

Several buildings are national important cultural properties.

Historic structures stand alongside Western-influenced architecture from the recent past.

A popular local bakery offers a wide choice of over 50 spreads and fillings.

Customers can make an original sandwich, to eat for breakfast or as a snack.

In Morioka, you can eat your fill of local specialties while enjoying a calm atmosphere and beautiful scenery.

The Three Great Noodles of Morioka are well known, but to truly understand the city,

you need to try another dish: a comfort food that warms body and soul.

We've come to a restaurant where you can try "hittsumi," a local home-cooked dish.

Hello. Nice to meet you.

Dumplings made with flour and water are cooked in a savory "dashi"

along with chicken, burdock root, and other ingredients.

This region was frequently struck by famine.

So, wheat was ground into flour to prepare for emergencies.

When food was scarce, they used the flour to make dishes like this.

So, because the land was poor, people needed to prepare for times of shortage.

This dish was a way of making do with what was available.

"Hittsumi" has long been a staple in local homes.

This restaurant began serving it over 50 years ago, when the business was run by the current owner's mother.

What sort of "dashi" do you use?

"Niboshi" and dried shiitake mushrooms.

Just two ingredients. Very simple.

After removing the heads, the "niboshi" are simmered in a bag for five hours.

The heads of the dried small sardines are removed by hand to prevent any unwanted flavors from seeping out.

After being simmered for five to six hours, the "dashi" is combined with the water

used to reconstitute dried shiitake mushrooms - a specialty of Iwate.

"Mirin" and soy sauce are added to the resulting "dashi," which is used to simmer the ingredients.

Add the chicken, burdock root, and shiitake.

OK, and you reconstituted the shiitake earlier.

This is the flavor base of "hittsumi."

Now for the "hittsumi" dumplings.

- This is the dough.
- Yes.

How do you make the dumplings?

We use all-purpose flour and a little vegetable oil to make it stretchy.

Then, just add water.

But the dough needs to undergo several stages of kneading.

You don't just do it once?

No. We knead the dough, let it rest for an hour, and repeat two times.

A lot of work!

- I've been doing this for 50 years.
- Wow!

I took over from my mother, who started the restaurant.

That was 50 years ago.

The dumplings are parboiled along with carrots.

We "hittsumu" or tear the dough by hand, and flatten it.

So, the dumplings are of different sizes and shapes.

Interesting.

The name "Hittsumi" comes from the local word "hittsumu" which means to tear apart.

Tearing the dough results in dumplings of different shapes and textures.

So quick!

She really is. We have many customers, so she has to make a lot.

She has to be super fast.

Still, it takes time. So, sometimes we have to ask customers to wait.

I could make them in advance.

- But the texture wouldn't be the same.
- No. They need to be freshly pulled.

The hand-pulled dumplings are boiled for five minutes.

Once the dumplings and soup are topped with "Naganegi" long onions, the "Hittsumi" is ready to serve.

Here you go.

Smells wonderful!

Chicken oil is floating on the clear soup. It looks delicious.

"Itadakimasu!" I'll try the freshly pulled "hittsumi" first.

Such a nice chewy texture!

It's because they're hand-pulled.

Yes, and the shapes will vary according to who makes them.

Each family has its own way of making them.

We're just trying to keep the tradition going.

It's important to show people what "hittsumi" is really like.

It's worth preserving.

Even if we were to close, we want to keep the legacy alive.

So, even though it's hard work, we feel we have to keep going.

"Hittsumi" is a long-time favorite in many homes.

But it's now recognized as one of Morioka's specialties.

It's a simple dish that showcases the inherent flavor of local ingredients.

It really is delicious.

Morioka offers a variety of delicious dishes, including "Wanko Soba," "Jajamen," Morioka "Reimen," and "Hittsumi."

Enjoy exploring Morioka's food scene!

The capital city of Iwate, Morioka is 2-3 hours from Tokyo by train.

Or, a 45-minute drive from the nearest airport.

If you get the chance, why not visit!