Dining with the Chef.

Let's explore Japanese cuisine in greater depth.

Japan is a chain of islands approximately 3,000 km long from North to South.

There is a large variation in climate,

and the terrain of each region has given rise to a diverse culture of food.

Today's destination is Hakodote,

on the southern tip of Japan's northernmost main island, Hokkaido.

There are direct flights connecting Hakodate to Japan's major cities.

And from Sapporo, the largest city in Hokkaido, it's accessible by train, bus, and car.

Rich in nature and history, it's one of the most beautiful cities in Japan, whatever the season.

The stunning night view from Mt. Hakodate is world-famous

and is said to be a sight, worth seeing at least once in your life.

Surrounded by fertile waters, Hakodate is a treasure trove of seafood.

The diversity and quality of the harvest attract shoppers,

including professional chefs from all over Japan.

Today, we'll meet the producers of an ingredient that forms the backbone of traditional Japanese cuisine.

Cook Around Japan - Hokkaido: Exploring "Kombu" in Hakodate.

Hello and welcome to Cook Around Japan. I'm your host, Yu Hayami.

Today, I'm with Chef Hayashi.

Hello everyone. My name is Hayashi Ryohei, and I'm a chef of Japanese cuisine.

- So Chef, I understand that before opening your restaurant, you trained in a restaurant in Kyoto for almost 20 years.
- Yes.

Chef Hayashi trained in Kyoto under one of the leading chefs of Japanese cuisine.

He is now the owner and chef of a highly regarded restaurant in Tokyo.

Japan has diverse geography and
an abundance of fresh, clean water.

Its ingredients and cuisines
differ from region to region.

I hope to provide an insight into Japan's
fascinating food culture.

And you will I'll teach us or we're going to focus on the basic Japanese meal

which includes rice, miso soup and a special side dish, "tsukudani."

Guess what ingredient is used
in all three of these dishes.

I don't know. What is it?

They all use "kombu" kelp.

Oh that's why we have this.

Oh wow this is huge.

So of course "kombu" kelp, I'm sure you've heard of it

but it's an edible seaweed that's widely used in Japan and is the foundation of Japanese stock, "dashi" stock.

It's used to cook rice for sushi.

It's used in the "dashi" for miso soup.

The leftover "kombu" is then simmered
in soy sauce and sugar to make "tsukudani."

"Kombu" is used in everything, from simmered dishes and salads to everyone's favorite, ramen.

It is an indispensable source of umami flavor that characterizes Japanese cuisine.

Most "kombu" in Japan is produced in Hokkaido.

The characteristics of kelp, vary according to the area.

For example, "Rishiri kombu" from the north has a robust flavor,

and "Makombu" from Hakodate has a refined aroma.

Chefs sometimes use different types of "kombu" depending on what they're making.

Chef Hayashi is fascinated by Hakodate's "Makombu."

It has a robust yet pure umami taste.

The first step in making the all-important "dashi" is to extract the umami from the "Makombu."

It takes a lot of time to make "dashi" in my restaurant.

But, I'm going to show you easier way to make "dashi" at home.

Soak the "kombu" in water.

The white powder on the surface is
mannitol, a sweet umami component.

It's not dirt. But if it bothers you,
wipe it off gently.

But there's really no need.

The "kombu" swells as it soaks up water.

The rule of thumb is, to use a 10 centimeter square piece, per liter of water.

Add the "kombu" and place over heat.

This way, you can make "dashi"
easily at home.

Soaking is enough to extract the umami.

Oh, well in the case of water how long do you leave in the water?

For example while one hour or two hours.

- Oh that's it?
- Yes, yes.

But instead of soaking it, I'm going to
simmer it to extract the umami quickly.

Once it starts to bubble, turn off the heat and let it sit

until you get the desired strength of "kombu dashi."

Bring to a gentle boil and turn off
the heat. And that's it.

- For miso soup, just add miso.
- That's amazing.

Season the "kombu dashi" with soy sauce and sake, to make a delicious clear soup.

Let's compare the different types of "kombu," starting with the "Makombu" from Hakodate.

It hasn't released all its umami yet,
but please go ahead and try some.

- Very aromatic.
- I know it just smells wonderful.

- And a little bit sweet.
- Yeah.

Let's try a different "kombu."

This is "Rishiri kombu," harvested in the northern regions.

It's widely used in Kyoto.

Now, for the "Rishiri kombu."

The smell is different.

Hmm oh it's so different.

- Yeah this one, very round.
- Yeah, very circular, mellow.

- It's very sensitive though.
- Yes.

It's a subtle difference, like wine.

The choice of "kombu" depends on what
you want and what you're used to.

You can analyze the taste components
and enjoy the difference.

As usual, the morning market in central Hakodate, is full of foreign tourists.

Our destination is a short drive across the peninsula from central Hakodate.

The surrounding area of this fishing port is famous for producing the premium "Makombu"

that has captured Chef Hayashi's heart.

The moment you enter the room,
the smell of "kombu" hits you.

We've been processing "kombu" for
so long we're used to it.

- It's like air.
- Yes.

Narita was born here and has been processing "kombu" for most of his life...

This warehouse usually holds more than 1,000 strips of "kombu,"

mainly from the Hakodate area, which is shipped all over Japan.

This was harvested this year from
nearby waters.

"Kombu" is harvested from the sea and dried thoroughly on land.

It is then processed to make it easier to use in cooking.

What do you think?

It's beautiful. It'll make a great "dashi."

Drying breaks down the "kombu" cell membranes,

releasing the umami components essential to Japanese cuisine.

"Kombu" contains various amino acids,
including glutamic and aspartic acids.

Also, mannitol, which is
a sweet substance.

It's packed with umami.

According to one theory, "kombu" has been consumed in Japan for over 2,000 years.

It was a valuable commodity shipped to Kyoto, Osaka and other parts of Japan,

and it played a strong influence in the formation of Japanese cuisine.

"Kombu" was also dedicated to shrines
as an offering to the deities.

It's part and parcel of
traditional Japanese culture.

Narita receives orders from top chefs throughout Japan,

and to meet their demands, he also procures premium grade "kombu" from other parts of Hokkaido.

The mineral content differs slightly due
to ocean currents and other conditions.

That's why they taste different.

"Rausu kombu" is wider.

Probably because it grows in a relatively
gentle sea with little waves.

It's not as if one is better than the
other. It's a matter of preference.

The clearness, aroma, color,
and richness.

The differences may be subtle, but a chef
tries to use what's best for each dish.

Among the different types of premium-grade "kombu" from across Hokkaido,

Hakodate's "Makombu" has long been considered the best.

Ancient records show that it was offered to the Emperors.

I was born here and grew up hearing about
"Makombu." It's a miraculous seaweed.

It's an ingredient that's been in use
for over a thousand years.

It's nurtured by our rich
natural environment.

Our mountains, rivers, and seas.

"Hakadate Makombu" has a
distinguished heritage and culture.

It's the essence of Japanese cuisine.

The "Makombu" nurtured by the rich waters of Hakodate,

are distinguished by their thick fronds and refined umami flavor.

Japanese people value pristine
beauty and purity.

"Makombu" produces a clear and
clean-tasting "dashi.

That's why it's so highly rated.

The "Makombu" from Hakodate is on a
different level. It's one of a kind.

The Minami-kayabe district of Hakodate, has a long history of "kombu" harvesting.

The "kombu" here is known for its exceptional high quality.

But this historic area is seeing some changes.

What do you catch here?

Tuna, squid, salmon, yellowtail,
sardines, just about everything.

There's such a variety of species.

We also farm "kombu."

It's winter now, but come spring,
the snow melts and flows into the sea.

It provides additional nutrients
to the "kombu."

Kawai used to harvest wild kelp. But now he cultivates it.

"Kombu" farming is a year-long process.

In November, "kombu" seeds are planted in ropes, which are lowered into the sea.

January to February in Hakodate is freezing cold,

but Kawai inspects each rope to see how the "kombu" is doing.

Eight months after the ropes are lowered into the sea,

he harvests the mature "kombu"

and dries them under the summer sun.

The locals then manually process and cut the dried "kombu"

into easy-to-use pieces for shipment to consumers and professional chefs.

"Kombu" farming is quite different
from fish farming.

Looking after the "kombu" is important,
but marine conditions are a huge factor.

It's a different form of aquaculture.

Things get a lot harder in winter.

The thought of going out to sea in
this weather makes me shiver.

There's ice floating on the surface.

The nutrient-rich waters have nurtured the growth of Hakodate "Makombu" for over a thousand years.

I think the heyday of "kombu"
harvesting was in the 1970s.

I was fresh out of high school.

There was still plenty of wild "kombu."

So this was all "kombu?"

Yes, it was like a forest.

Changes to the global environment dealt a heavy blow to the wild "kombu" forest.

"Makombu" harvests dropped to a critical level, threatening the very existence of Japanese cuisine.

For the last 50 years, Kawai has been spearheading the effort to protect Hakodate "Makombu."

We'll try to provide sustainably
harvested wild "kombu" if possible.

Farming is the only viable option.

Chefs will need to adapt to the
difference between wild and farmed.

Yes, we can't work without ingredients.

"Kombu," in particular, is essential
to Japanese cuisine.

I tell my customers that it's like
the invisible roots of a tree.

It's the roots of my tree, my food.

Compared to harvesting wild "kombu,"

sustainable aquaculture requires enormous effort, involving dozens of processes.

The legacy of Hakodate "Makombu" is kept alive by the harvesters

who are committed to protecting the natural environment, traditions, and culture.

"Makombu" may be farmed elsewhere, but
there's nothing like Hakodate "Makombu."

So many factors come into play to
produce this miraculous ingredient.

It's our duty to pass on its legacy
to future generations.

As a producer, I'll do whatever I can
to provide a staple supply of "Makombu."

I want to preserve it for eternity.

Chef Hayashi is going to use Hakodate "Makombu" to make "ichiban-dashi."

It's a stock made with "kombu" and "katsuobushi,"

with a smooth, refined flavor that's the heart of Japanese cuisine.

"Ichiban-dashi" is made with
"kombu" and "katsuobushi."

It's a combination of plant-based
and animal-based umami.

1+1 is usually 2. But this combination
gives an effect of 7 to 8.

Chef Hayashi uses this "dashi" to create a wide variety of dishes.

After extracting the "kombu" umami, he removes the "kombu" and brings the "kombu dashi" to a boil.

Turn off the heat to
reduce the temperature.

If it's too hot, it'll spoil the flavor
of the "katsuobushi." Add it all in one go.

How many grams is that?

- So 10 grams.
- 10 grams. That's it.

Now, you just strain it.

- That's it?
- Yes.

Oh so it hasn't even been in there for a minute maybe 30 seconds.

- 30 seconds.
- I can smell it though, it smells really nice.

Wow, and that's it? It's so easy.

- This is like the world's fastest stock.
- Yes. Actually.

Oh yeah this is like the basic "dashi."

Oh it's so good though. It's so simple but it's so good.

It has that light umami and it's a bit sweet.

- Oh it's just wonderful.
- Yes. Please try.

Without this, we wouldn't be able to make Japanese food, right? This is how important it is.

So without the "kombu," we can't be able to be making the Japanese cuisine.

Very important ingredients.

So in western dishes when you make soup or consomme or any kind of stock, you boil and simmer for a long time

but in Japanese "dashi" when you're making Japanese "dashi" stock you don't simmer.

Yeah. No need. So very simple and very short time.

It's super quick. But it takes a couple
of years to produce quality ingredients.

So, the process of cooking
starts with the producers.

It would be a shame not to savor every last bit of "kombu" produced with such care.

"Kombu" leftover from the "dashi" is turned into "tsukudani," a side dish that goes well with rice.

Don't discard the leftover "kombu."
It's edible.

OK. How can we eat it?

"Kombu" simmered in soy sauce and sugar
is good and packed with nutrients.

It's edible.

Cut the leftover "kombu" into fine strips.

You can just tell that it's a meaty "kombu" by the way it's cut you can hear it.

So did you eat "tsukudani" like this growing up?

Yeah yeah yeah, my mother makes "tsukudani" for me.

That's so nice and now you make it for your children?

- Yes.
- Oh that's so nice.

- But they can't eat.
- Oh. They can't eat it yet. I see.

- I mean it is very strong flavor.
- Yeah.

- Now, you just simmer it.
- Oh and that's it? Okay.

The first step is to add water and sake and simmer to soften the "kombu."

Cover with a drop-lid and simmer for 15 minutes.

So we add sake and water to make it softer or?

- Yes.
- To make it softer, okay.

And then we add the seasoning.

Test it to see if it's soft enough to eat.
Then, add the seasonings.

Add the sugar and dissolve it before adding the soy sauce.

Just simmer and reduce.

- Oh, that's it?
- Nothing to it.

So simple.

Just be careful not to burn it.

Oh it just smells so good, that sweet savory smell.

Oh you know like from the sugar and from the soy sauce.

- Do you make food at home? Do you cook at home?
- Yes yes.

- I like cooking.
- You like cooking.

- So everywhere, I cook.
- That's so nice.

Once it's reduced to this level, it's done.

You can add a sprinkling of sesame seeds, black pepper, or some other spice to taste. Enjoy!

That's amazing. Why do we throw "kombu" away?

- Exactly.
- It's transformed into something so delicious.

I love that. I love how nothing goes to waste.

I learned so much on this journey.

"Kombu"is the foundation
of Japanese cuisine.

So much thought and effort go into
producing quality "kombu."

It's deepened my appreciation of "dashi."

Today just having spent a few hours with you I realized how very important "kombu" is in the Japanese cuisine.

Well thank you so much Chef, for teaching us and thank you all for watching Cook Around Japan.

I hope you gained a new insight in Japanese cuisine as well.