Dining with the Chef!

Hi everyone, and welcome to Dining with the Chef!

I'm your host, Yu Hayami and here is our wondeful Chef Saito!

Hello Yu, hello everyone.

So chef, what are we making today?

Today is refreshing dishes made with vinegar.

Interesting! What's our first dish?

Octopus with cucumber and "kabocha."

That sounds wonderful. What else?

A "hashiyasume" with a lot of mushrooms.

"Hashiyasume" is a Japanese word for a small dish served with meal.

Yes, both can be "kaiseki" meals.

- So today we are going to learn about how vinegar seasoned dishes are served during "kaiseki" multi-course meals.
- Right.

Well, I can't wait! Shall we?

Yes, let's get started!

Japan is known for its bountiful fresh and delicious ingredients.

Amazing!

Japanese cuisine, guided by traditional culture that you will be able to prepare at home.

Perfect.

Today, in our series on "Kaiseki" cuisine,

Chef Saito is going to introduce a vinegar-based dish and a "hashiyasume," a palate-cleanser served between courses.

Let's join Yu Hayami and become Chef Saito's chef apprentices.

Here's our Master Chef, Mr. Tatsuo Saito!

Never a dull moment, with the chef.

Authentic Japanese Cooking.

Here's what's cooking today.

Vinegared dishes are a staple in "Kaiseki" cuisine.

Octopus and cucumber are a popular pairing.

And today, we're going to add a seasonal element with "kabocha" squash, which is in season in autumn.

The sweet "kabocha" softens the acidity of the dish, which is topped with aromatic ginger.

So let's start by preparing the octopus.

Yes, we have a boiled octopus.

That's right. So in Japan, in many of the supermarkets, we are able to find these pre-boiled octopus.

- Yes.
- And we can eat them in sashimi style with wasabi and "shoyu."

- Yes.
- So how can we cut the octopus, chef?

So cut it into the thin slice.

Now, a special technique from our chef.

Showing us how to cut the octopus making the most of its delicious flavor and texture.

It's called "sazanami-giri."

Hold the octopus in place.

Move the tip of the blade up and down to
create a slice with a wavy pattern.

So it's kind of a "zigzag" way.

"Zigzag" way.

Let's look at it in slow motion.

He lays the blade at an angle to make a 3-millimeter-wide slit,

and then slices through, moving the tip of the blade up and down.

This creates a wavy pattern.

- Like the waves.
- Like waves.

This makes it easier to chew.

The jagged edges absorb the sauce, making the octopus more flavorful.

Make diagonal slits, 2 or 3 millimeters apart to make it easier to bite through the chewy octopus.

Cut the curled-up tentacle tips into bite-size pieces and make a few slits on the surface.

It's your turn Yu, to try the "sazanami-giri," or wave-cut.

I'll try it.

- This is hard, kind of like this?
- Yeah, Okay.

Tilt the blade and press down.

Like this.

- You want to increase the surface area.
- I see, I see. Okay.

- Then you can make many waves.
- That's true.

A large surface with many waves catches the sauce well, and makes it very flavorful.

That's it. Good.

- Good job.
- Really?

- Good job, yeah.
- And then, we cut into...

That's very nice.

Then score the surface.

Now for a recap.

Lay the blade at an angle and make a 3-millimeter-wide slit,

then slice through, moving the tip of the blade up and down, creating a wavy pattern.

"Sazanami-giri" creates
a wave-like pattern.

Very nice, very nice, perfect.

So today we are making a "sunomono" which is a vinegar seasoned dish.

"Sunomono" is also one of the courses in a "kaiseki" meal.

Yes, it refreshes the palate.

But more importantly, it lets people know
that the next course is rice.

You know, that is just amazing.

You don't have to speak but you just know by what is served that it is the end of the meal, that's wonderful.

It's all about heartfelt hospitality.

Next, the cucumbers.

The tips are slightly bitter, so peel and trim.

Then, sprinkle with coarse salt,

and roll back and forth, rub and massage and remove the wax coating.

This will make it easier for the sauce to seep in.

- Massage.
- Ah massage. The cucumber massage.

Wow!

Wow, so many subtle techniques in Japanese cooking.

This removes the natural wax,
allowing the sauce to seep in.

- It also brings out the vivid color.
- Vivid. Ah, right.

- And then.
- Oh so you right away you can wash it.

This is "itazuri."

Now it's Yu's turn to do the "itazuri."

We sprinkle the cucumber with salt and rub it in.

And then we wash it.

- Okay.
- Beautiful cucumber.

- The beautiful cucumber.
- Yes.

Now, let's cut it.

We have cutting technique, too. Don't miss it.

Here is a special technique from our chef.

Chef Saito will show us a special way to cut cucumbers.

It's called "jabara-giri," literally the snake belly cut.

Use the tip only.

Using the tip of the blade, make diagonal slits 2 or 3 millimeters apart along the length of the cucumber.

Keep the point turned down so that you don't cut them to the bottom.

Make diagonal slits at equal distances,
cutting half way through.

Keep the angle and distance the same with each cut.

- Okay?
- Yes.

Like this.

- And turn over.
- Turn over.

Turn over and repeat the process, making slits equally apart and with the same angle.

Be careful not to cut all the way through to the bottom.

"Jabara-giri" gives you a cucumber
that you can twist and turn.

This is why this decorative cutting technique is called "jabara-giri" - the snake belly cut.

The sauce is absorbed through the slits, so the cucumber is more flavorful.

Cut the cucumber into easy-to-eat 3 centimeter lengths.

- And then, salt water.
- Salt water.

Soak the pieces in 3% salt water for 10 minutes.

This draws out excess moisture through the process of osmosis, making it easier for the sauce to seep in.

It also makes the cucumbers more crispy.

This allows the sauce to soak in easily.

So it's important to
cut and salt properly.

Well chef, I would like to do that, but it's such an advanced technique that I would like to use this.

- Ta-da!
- Why?

A slicer. Well... because not all of us can do that.

When using a mandoline slicer, adjust it to make 2-millimeter-thick slices.

- That's very easy. The slicer.
- Yes, this is actually quite easy.

- Yeah, very easy.
- Anyone can do it.

Sprinkle the sliced cucumbers with salt, give it a quick mix, and set aside for 10 minutes.

This will draw out excess moisture and make it easier for the sauce to seep in.

Slicer is a good idea.

But sometimes please try.

The "jabara," yes.

I'm just so surprised that so much technique goes into just the cucumber.

Raw food, including sashimi,
needs extra care.

Japanese cuisine uses an array of
techniques to create optimal flavor.

It has so much depth.

Now squeeze the excess water out of the cucumbers.

Rinse to remove the excess salt.

- And then squeeze the cucumber very well, otherwise the flavor is watery.
- Okay.

Then drain like this.

The slitted cucumber is soft outside,
and crisp inside.

"Jabara-giri" produces this texture.

Squeeze the sliced cucumbers, rinse, and squeeze out the excess water.

- Very hard very hard.
- Okay.

Cucumbers are full of water.

- Very tight.
- Okay.

Okay and the cucumber is ready.

Wow, finally! That's a lot of steps we have to go through for just a cucumber.

But they make it delicious.

Okay, so what's next?

Fry the "kabocha."

Now, let's cut the "kabocha" squash.

Chef Saito will show us an easy way to cut the tough "kabocha."

Slice off a small piece.

This will keep it steady.

Place on a cloth.

This makes it easier to
press down with the knife.

Use the edge of the knife
to press and cut.

Cut into 5-millimeter-thick slices.

So you get clean, uniform slices.

Now it's your turn, Yu.

Slice off a piece of skin and place it on a dampened cloth to keep it steady.

Then, press down with the edge of the knife.

Oh that's easy.

Easy.

- And we push it.
- Push it.

Chef, I think this wet napkin really helps.

- Very helps.
- It makes very steady.

- Very steady.
- That's so easy.

I learned something again today. Wow that's great.

Little tips make life easier.

- Okay.
- "Kabocha" is done.

Add vegetable oil to the pan and place over medium heat.

Put in the "kabocha" slices and season with salt.

The salt makes the "kabocha" sweeter.

Cover with aluminum foil to bake over medium heat until brown.

After about 3 minutes, flip over.

- Wow that looks delicious.
- Looks delicious.

Oh and you get a little bit of burn, like a crisp, yes.

Cover and bake the other side as well, until brown.

After about 3 minutes...

That looks so good! It's caramelized at the end, oh so nice.

- So outside, just a little bit crispy.
- Yes.

Inside, soft.

The browned "kabocha"
resemble autumn leaves.

So they convey the season.

- This makes the food more interesting.
- Oh it smells so wonderful.

- Smells so wonderful?
- Yum, yum, yum.

- Okay.
- Okay, done.

So chef, what's next?

- Make dashi, the heart of "washoku."
- Yes.

Let's make some dashi broth, using kombu and "katsuobushi."

Gently wipe the surface of the kombu to remove any dirt or dust,

but not the white powder as this contains the umami flavor.

Pour water into a pot, add the kombu and place over medium-high heat for about 10 minutes to extract the umami.

Boil for about 30 seconds before removing the kombu.

Add water to stop the boiling.

Add the "katsuobushi" and return to a boil.

Remove the surface residue while boiling for about 20 seconds.

Turn off the heat and allow the "katsuobushi" to sink.

Now, strain through a paper towel.

And you have a clear and flavorful golden dashi.

Now for the sauce.

Combine the dashi, rice vinegar, sugar, "usukuchi" soy sauce, and salt in a pot, and place over medium heat.

Add the "katsuobushi" for extra umami.

Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat.

I love the smoky flavor of the "katsuobushi," so nice.

This boosts the umami flavor.

Turn off the heat and strain through a paper towel.

Oh that smells wonderful.

Squeeze out the umami
from the "katsuobushi."

- The leftovers make a great rice topping.
- Ah that's a great idea, no waste.

I can't wait to try it.

Allow the sauce to cool, and we're ready to plate the dish.

Use the cucumbers to form a base.

The seasonal theme is autumn,
so showcase the "kabocha."

It would be nice to have a little bit of everything with each bite.

Yes.

Chef Saito arranges the three ingredients forming a mound.

- Looks good!
- Is this okay?

- It's okay. Pour the sauce a lot.
- A lot.

Drizzle the sauce over it.

And then, the grated ginger.

And finally, top it with some grated ginger.

- I will add a lot because I love ginger.
- You like spicy?

I love spicy.

And it's finished!

Next, Mushrooms in a Tangy Soup, this is ideal for serving between courses in "kaiseki" cuisine.

It's a "hashiyasume" or palate cleanser.

- Our next dish is a "hashiyasume," pallet cleanser.
- Right.

A "hashiyasume" is a small dish
served between courses.

It's a palate cleanser.

It's like the French granite.

It's served in between the fish and meat,
or grilled and fried dishes.

- So in between main dishes.
- Yes.

It refreshes the palate and
whets the appetite for the next course.

Ah I see.

So I see today, we have a lot of mushrooms.

- Yes, and autumn is a mushrooms season.
- Yes.

Okay, let's use a lot of the mushrooms.

Now let's cut the mushrooms.

Cut the "eringi" horizontally in half.

Then, cut lengthwise in half, and cut into 2-3-millimeter-thick slices.

Then cut off the root ends of the "shimeji" and divide into small bunches.

Cut off the root ends of the "enoki," then cut in half and separate into strands.

Let's steam the mushrooms with sake,
using a deep pan.

Sprinkle with sake and salt.

Cover with aluminum foil, and place over medium heat.

For better mushroom flavor.

And to contain the aroma.

Boiling ruins the aroma.

So you steam with sake to
preserve it.

After 2 or 3 minutes, remove the foil and stir to release the steam.

Mmm chef, I can smell it.

- Smells so nice.
- Autumn flavor.

Autumn aroma and flavor.

The mushrooms have softened.

- Now, add seasonings.
- Okay.

Add the dashi, rice vinegar, "mirin," "usukuchi" soy sauce, and salt.

- It's done.
- Oh, that's so easy.

- Easy.
- I love it.

It's a palate cleanser.
So it needs to be light, healthy, and simple.

I can see how this is served in-between meals because it has a vinegary taste,

so it must whet your appetite to eat more.

That's the idea.

Bring to a gentle boil, turn off the heat, and place in a bowl.

Refrigerate for at least half an hour to infuse the mushrooms with flavor.

After 30 minutes, they turn out like this.

If it's cold, you can serve it hot.
But in autumn, it can be hot or cold.

Now, let's plate the mushrooms.

So, you use a small.

- Small.
- Bowl like that.

"Hashiyasume," not too big.

- And wasabi.
- Ah that's nice.

The wasabi gives it a nice kick.

Garnish with edible chrysanthemum petals, a symbol of autumn.

- Chrysanthemum petal leaves, nice.
- This autumn color.

Pluck off the petals and scatter over the mushrooms.

Oh, that's so nice, presentation is very nice.

Presentation is very important.

So beautiful.

When serving a dish with a soup in "kaiseki" cuisine, use a saucer lined with a folded piece of Japanese tissue paper

to soak up spills and give it an elegant touch.

Chef, it's lovely!

Thank you and it's... finished!

Both dishes are ready to serve.

So let's try the vinegared dish,

and the "hashiyasume."

Chef, today's dishes are very autumn, beautiful.

Chef, your arrangement of the "kabocha" looks very autumn.

It reminds me of leaves during the autumn season.

I emphasized the "kabocha"
because it's autumn.

But I like your arrangement, too.
It's well-balanced.

You chose a cute dish.
It's a beautiful presentation.

Thank you so much. Okay, I'll try the octopus.

Chef! Because we cut it "zigzag,"

it's taken on the sauce very well.

Very well. Yes.

"Giza-giza" and slit.

And usually the octopus is a bit chewy, but it's very easy to chew, to bite into it.

Oh that's why those techniques were very important.

Okay, I'm going to try the cucumber.

- Mmm! So crunchy.
- So crunchy.

So refreshing.

- So you have the different textures.
- This is Japanese technique.

So much thought goes into Japanese cooking.

I can see why the "sunomono" dish is served after a meal because it's very refreshing.

The "sunomono" tells you that
the rice is about to be served.

Wonderful. And then next, I will try the "hashiyasume."

- Like this.
- Oh, like this.

And then, mix well.

The wasabi and flower.

- I love how you added these chrysanthemum petals.
- Right.

Wow. Look at that. That looks delicious.

- You don't need chopsticks.
- Oh, okay.

Oh, you know, we put in a lot of vinegar, so I thought it would be much more sour.

- But it's very mellow.
- Mellow.

Yeah, it's very mild. I love it.

And then we have the mushroom.

The mushroom have soaked up a lot of this delicious flavor.

And the wasabi adds a little bit of kick.

It kind of holds or brings all the flavors together.

Oh, this is wonderful.

The "sunomono" precedes the rice;
the "hashiyasume," the main course.

The two dishes create a
rhythmic flow to the meal.

If you bear this in mind, it'll
add to the pleasure of eating "kaiseki."

I do hope you'll try it out.

- Thank you so much chef for teaching us today.
- Thank you.

Now for a recap of today's recipes.

First, the octopus and cucumber vinegared dish.

Cut the boiled octopus into 3-millimeter-slices, using the "sazanami-giri" cut to make it easier to chew.

Slit each slice.

Salt the cucumbers, slit, soak in brine, and squeeze.

Brown the "kabocha" slices.

Drizzle with dashi vinegar to complete this autumn salad.

Next, the Mushrooms in a Tangy Soup.

Cut or shred the mushrooms into bite-size pieces and steam with sake.

Add the dashi, season with rice vinegar.

Sprinkle with edible chrysanthemum petals to complete this light and tangy soup. You're ready!

Why not enjoy making these elegant and delicious dishes at your house tonight?