Authentic Japanese Cooking: Wakatake Soup

Chef Saito continues to teach us about traditional Japanese kaiseki set course meals. The second course is osuimono (soup). We learn how to make seasonal soup for spring and citrus umami udon.

(1) Wakatake Soup

Ingredients (Serves 2)
150 g boiled fresh bamboo shoots
40 g wakame seaweed (salted)

600 ml dashi (kombu kelp and katsuobushi)
Usukuchi soy sauce and salt, to taste

Kinome (sansho pepper leaves), as needed

Directions
1. Cut the top half of the fresh bamboo shoots along the grain, and the bottom half, against the grain.
2. Cut the wakame seaweed into 4 to 5cm squares and parboil.
3. To make the dashi stock, simmer the kombu over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add some water and katsuobushi. Maintain a gentle boil for about 20 or 30 seconds. Strain the dashi.
4. Season with usukuchi soy sauce and salt.
5. Add the bamboo shoots and wakame. Arrange the ingredients in a bowl, cover with soup and top with kinome.

(2) Dashi Udon with Lime

Ingredients (Serves 2)
1 lime
400 g pre-cooked udon

400 ml dashi
2 tbsp usukuchi soy sauce
1 tbsp mirin
1/5 tsp salt

Grated daikon radish, as needed

Directions
1. Cut the lime into 2mm slices.
2. Briefly simmer the pre-cooked, thin udon noodles and rinse in cold water.
3. Season the dashi with usukuchi soy sauce, mirin and salt. Pour over the noodles.
4. Cover with the sliced lime and top with grated daikon radish.

Transcript

00:07

Dining with the Chef!

00:12

Hi everyone welcome to the Dining with the Chef.

00:15

I'm your host Yu Hayami, and here is our wonderful Chef Saito!

00:19

Hello Yu, hello everyone.

00:22

So today is episode two of our special series on "kaiseki," a formal traditional multi-course Japanese meal.

00:31

Yes, today is the second course "osuimono."

00:37

Ah "osuimono" is the Japanese style of clear soup.

00:41

Right.

00:42

So today's clear "osuimono" soup is made with ingredients that come to bloom in spring.

00:49

Yes, bamboo shoot and "wakame" seaweed.

00:53

And season is important.

00:55

Today we share the feel of season, also "dashi" is key.

01:02

That's right, so today, Chef Saito, you'll be teaching us how to make "dashi" stock.

01:06

"Dashi" stock.

01:07

Well, I can't wait, shall we?

01:09

Yes, let's get started.

01:16

Japan is known for its bountiful fresh and delicious ingredients.

01:25

Amazing.

01:27

Japanese cuisine, guided by traditional culture that you will be able to prepare at home.

01:35

Perfect.

01:37

Today, Wakatake Soup, and Dashi Udon with Lime.

01:45

Let's join Yu Hayami and become Chef Saito's chef apprentices.

01:51

Here's our Master Chef, Mr. Tatsuo Saito!

01:55

Always a good time with Chef Saito.

02:01

Authentic Japanese Cooking.

02:04

Here's what's cooking today.

02:08

We look at the second course in a formal "kaiseki" meal, the "osuimono" a clear soup.

02:17

Today's "osuimono" features "wakame," bamboo shoots, and "kinome," all of which are in season in spring.

02:25

The clear soup, made with umami-rich "dashi" gives you an insight into the heart of Japanese cuisine.

02:36

Today is soup course, here are ingredients.

02:41

Yes, we have bamboo shoots, "wakame" seaweed and "kinome sansho."

02:48

- Yes.
- Very important trio of ingredients.

02:52

Spring is the season for fresh bamboo shoots.

02:56

In Japan, they're often simmered or grilled.

03:00

Spring is also the season for fresh "wakame" seaweed

03:03

and "kinome," a Japanese herb with a citrusy aroma that leaves a tingling sensation in your mouth.

03:15

- In spring they are in season.
- Yes.

03:18

The sea provides us with tender "wakame."

03:22

In the mountains, bamboo shoots
appear from under the melting snow.

03:27

Then, you have fresh herbs like "kinome,"
the young leaves of the "sansho" plant.

03:34

All these spring ingredients served in
a soup made with "kombu" and "katsuobushi."

03:39

It's sublime.

03:42

It's Japanese cuisine at its best.

03:44

I mean I love how it's very simple, simply presented

03:49

but there are so much depth that goes into so many skills have to going in to, right?

03:56

Well, I can't wait to learn, Chef Saito, where shall we start?

03:59

- OK, prepare the bamboo shoot.
- OK.

04:02

That is special way to cut. Please watch.

04:06

- Yes.
- Please watch.

04:09

We're using par-boiled bamboo shoots.

04:13

The lower half is quite firm, so cut across the grain.

04:17

This helps to absorb the flavor.

04:22

The tips are tender, so cut along the grain.

04:27

Cut into three millimeter uniform slices.

04:36

The upper and lower half need to be
cut in different ways.

04:42

More delicious.

04:45

- All right, my turn.
- Please go ahead.

04:47

OK, so we are going to cut it in half way likewise.

04:57

Chef Saito, are you eating?

04:59

Did I see you eat?

05:01

What are you taking?

05:04

- Pretty good.
- I think it's OK.

05:07

But you look so guilty it was kind of funny this way, OK.

05:11

Oh, and its done, wow.

05:16

OK, next prepare "wakame" seaweed.

05:20

- Please check special way to cut this too.
- OK.

05:25

We're using salted "wakame."

05:28

If your local store doesn't stock it, you can reconstitute dried "wakame."

05:36

Rinse the salted "wakame" and soak in water for a while.

05:41

And look what happens!

05:44

Wow, look how much we have.

05:46

- It's amazing.
- Bigger. Bigger.

05:48

Amazing. Just a little, now is...

05:53

I know. It's impressive. OK.

05:56

Now, a technique used by our Chef!

06:00

"Wakame" tastes better when cut into uniform shapes and sizes.

06:06

"Wakame" look like split curtains.
It has to be cut in a certain way.

06:13

Why is that?

06:14

Cutting into squares gives you a better
texture. You shouldn't just chop it up.

06:19

- Yes, thats...
- No, no, no.

06:20

- No?
- No, no, never.

06:22

I never knew that.

06:24

Spread the "wakame," align and stack.

06:29

Align the strips.

06:33

Remove the top connecting section to separate the strips.

06:42

Then align the strips into a bundle.

06:50

So then line up and cut into square.

06:57

Then, cut into four to five centimeter squares.

07:05

They're about the same size.

07:08

This way, when you eat several layers of
"wakame," you get a well-balanced texture.

07:14

Now it's your turn, Yu.

07:17

- Oh, look at that.
- That's it.

07:20

Wow, look how long this is.

07:23

That's amazing.

07:25

Separate the strips.

07:28

OK.

07:30

Oh, I never thought of cutting these uniformly like this, I just randomly cut them.

07:37

But then, you end up with small pieces.

07:40

It ruins the texture.

07:44

You usually pick up four, five pieces at a time.

07:47

Uniform pieces will give you the
utmost "wakame" flavor and texture.

07:52

So much thought and technique are
condensed into a single bowl of soup.

08:01

You must keep this in mind.

08:05

Parboil the "wakame."

08:08

Parboiling helps plump up
the "wakame."

08:13

Yet another technique.

08:16

Boil a pot of water, place a colander over the top, and add the "wakame."

08:22

This makes it easier to drain the "wakame."

08:27

Stir with chopsticks to parboil evenly.

08:32

The green was coming vibrant.

08:35

Parboiling removes the salt and plumps
up the "wakame"; so it tastes better.

08:43

The salt seeps out and is replaced by water, improving the texture and flavor of the "wakame."

08:53

After about a minute, plunge in cold water and stir with chopsticks to cool.

09:02

Oh, you can really smell the "wakame."

09:06

- Parboiling enhances the aroma.
- I know.

09:09

- It's "wakame!"
- Yeah hahahahaha.

09:13

- Parboiling makes a world of difference.
- Really?

09:17

Once the "wakame" has cooled down, drain well.

09:24

OK, so now all our ingredients are prepared.

09:27

Yes, bamboo shoot "wakame" and "kinome sansho," all in ingredients in spring.

09:33

Yes.

09:34

Seasonality is important in Japanese
cuisine, especially spring.

09:38

It's a dish that makes us feel or reminds us that you know the winter is over and spring is about to come.

09:46

- Everybody happy.
- Yes.

09:49

Now for the all-important "dashi" broth, made with "kombu" and "katsuobushi."

09:55

When buying "kombu," look for sheets
with lots of white powder.

10:00

This is an umami ingredient called
mannitol, so don't remove it.

10:06

But you may need to gently wipe off
bits of grit.

10:13

Add the "kombu" to a pot of water and place over medium heat.

10:19

Bring to a gentle boil.

10:24

- Should I turn it around?
- Please don't touch.

10:26

- Oh don't touch? OK, sorry, don't touch it.
- Please don't touch.

10:33

The "kombu" is enjoying a relaxing bath.

10:38

It's slowly releasing its umami.

10:44

If you touch it now, it'll become tense,
and the umami will be trapped inside.

10:48

OK, I will not touch it.

10:50

Don't touch it.

10:53

Let it simmer for ten minutes.

10:57

During this time, it'll continue to release its umami.

11:04

It's now been simmering for ten minutes.

11:08

Now, check the "kombu" with your nails.

11:12

It's hot, so be careful.
Can you push in your fingernail?

11:16

If so, that means it's released
all its umami.

11:22

Remove the "kombu."

11:25

Add some water to stop the boiling.

11:30

OK.

11:33

Add the "katsuobushi."

11:35

If the liquid is still boiling,
it'll become cloudy.

11:40

Reducing the temperature before adding the "katsuobushi" allows for a clear soup.

11:48

Maintain a gentle boil for about 20 or 30 seconds.

11:54

This draws out the umami.

11:57

But overcooking will ruin the aroma.
So no more than 30 seconds.

12:03

Skim off any surface residue.

12:10

The "dashi" is bursting with umami from the "kombu" and "katsuobushi."

12:18

After about 30 seconds, turn off the heat and filter through a strainer lined with paper towels.

12:28

Squeeze out every single drop.

12:38

This is "dashi" stock.

12:42

Oh, smells wonderful.

12:46

- Delicious.
- Yes.

12:49

A clear and fragrant "dashi," full of umami.

12:57

OK, time to season it.

13:00

- This step is key, so always taste to check.
- OK.

13:06

"Dashi" stock.

13:09

Pour the "dashi" into a pot and place over medium heat.

13:14

Add the seasonings in increments,
tasting as you go.

13:20

First I check the "dashi" stock.

13:25

First, check the taste of
the "dashi" itself.

13:30

Then, add "usukuchi" soy sauce.

13:34

We don't want to ruin the beautiful color of the clear soup.

13:38

So, we're using light-colored "usukuchi" soy sauce.

13:42

Add a little at a time.

13:48

And check the taste as you go.

13:55

And then salt, and then check.

14:05

- Needs more "usukuchi" soy sauce.
- Oh, OK.

14:11

And add salt.

14:16

Careful not to overboil the soup.
You don't want to ruin the aroma.

14:21

- Taste it again.
- That's difficult.

14:27

One bowl of soup is about 150ml.

14:32

So if it tastes right now,
it's too strong.

14:36

It should be mildly flavored.

14:39

You'll be adding the "wakame" and bamboo shoots to the soup later on, so it shouldn't be too flavorful now.

14:51

My turn?

14:52

- Please.
- OK.

14:53

Just a "dashi" stock.

14:59

Oh, it's just so good.

15:03

It has the umami flavor but of course it needs a little more salt,

15:08

so soy sauce and some salt.

15:22

OK. Oh, it's getting there.

15:26

I think it needs little more salt.

15:28

- Wait wait wait wait.
- OK.

15:31

Add the ingredients and then add salt to taste.

15:36

The "wakame" and bamboo shoots
will transform the flavor.

15:42

The "dashi" brings it all together.

15:46

Let's check the taste again.

15:53

- Delicious!
- Really?

15:57

Just a little bit more salt.
No need for soy sauce.

16:07

- Perfect.
- Perfect?

16:09

OK, done.

16:10

Yu's soup is almost done, too.

16:17

You know?

16:18

It's good. I can taste of seaweed, it's wonderful.

16:24

I just gonna little more soy sauce and little more salt.

16:35

Good?

16:36

OK, let's arrange to serve.

16:39

Lacquered wooden bowls are used for "osuimono."

16:45

You hold the bowl in your hands and sip the soup.

16:51

This calls for bowls with low heat conductivity.

16:55

Ceramic or porcelain bowls would be too hot to hold.

17:02

Also, the smooth feel of the lacquer against your lips helps the soup taste better.

17:12

So, is there some kind of criteria in how to choose the right bowl?

17:18

Pick them up and see how they feel.

17:24

Consider the aesthetics.
And choose one that appeals to you.

17:33

- Oh, light.
- Very light.

17:35

Oh, quite heavy.

17:39

Check inside. It is gorgeous.

17:42

It is gorgeous. I feel like this is very traditional.

17:46

Because my tray is quite modern, I'm going to choose this one.

17:53

Because it's very modern looking.

17:56

- Yes.
- I think so.

18:00

And what about Chef Saito?

18:03

Oh, that's so pretty.

18:06

I like this traditional design.

18:12

The floral pattern is evocative of spring.

18:19

Red and black.

18:21

- This is modern.
- Yes, I think I'm gonna go for the modern look.

18:27

Arrange to serve?

18:28

OK.

18:29

Fill the bowl with bamboo shoots
and "wakame."

18:33

Both are equally important.

18:38

So good. The smells wonderful too.

18:43

Cover with soup and top with a generous amount of "kinome."

18:50

Finally, cover with a lid.

18:56

The lid traps the aroma of the
bamboo shoots, "wakame," and "kinome."

19:02

Ah, it locks in the aroma.

19:04

So when you remove the lid,
you get a full sense of spring.

19:09

Well, we are finished.

19:13

"Dashi" can be used to make all kinds of dishes, including a cold bowl of lime udon noodles!

19:25

So today Chef Saito taught us how to make great "dashi" stock,

19:29

so next dish we are going to use that "dashi" stock and make a special udon noodle dish.

19:36

Yes, with the lots of lime.

19:39

- Lime? With udon?
- Lime.

19:41

It's refreshing, tangy, and pretty.

19:45

It's also very fragrant.
And it looks really special.

19:52

First, cut the lime.

19:55

Wash and scrub the peel to remove the wax-ey texture.

20:01

Cut into two millimeter slices.

20:09

Then grate the "daikon" radish.

20:15

Today we're using pre-cooked Inaniwa udon.

20:19

They're flat and thin, a bit like linguine.

20:22

Simmer briefly and rinse in cold water to chill and then drain.

20:28

Let's make the soup.

20:31

Pour the "dashi" into a pan and season with "mirin," soy sauce, and salt.

20:46

Mix well, don't boil too much.

20:50

Right, why is that?

20:52

Smell is gone.

20:59

So yummy?

21:00

So yummy, so yummy.

21:05

Turn off the heat just before it starts to boil and set aside to cool.

21:10

Plate the cold udon in individual bowls.

21:15

Pour the soup over the udon and cover with sliced lime.

21:26

Oh I love it. I love so many slices of that covers the udon underneath.

21:34

- Ah nice, that's fancy, wow look at that.
- Fancy.

21:38

3D line.

21:41

- And "daikon" radish. OK.
- Yes.

21:45

And then the finish it with some grated "daikon" radish.

21:49

On top.

21:52

Lime udon, it's finished.

21:56

Today's dishes are ready to serve.

22:00

Both make the most of the key ingredient in Japanese cuisine, "dashi."

22:07

Chef, today, I can't wait to try the "osuimono" soup.

22:11

- Yes, first, open the lid.
- Okay.

22:15

Wow! It smells amazing!

22:19

Amazing?

22:20

Oh, smells "sansyo" leaves and the bamboo shoot, "wakame."

22:24

Yes. I'm going to try the soup.

22:36

That gives you such a calm feeling.

22:38

And it's full of umami.

22:41

- And it's very simple but such depth in flavor.
- Yes.

22:46

- And also body becomes warm.
- Yes. That's really nice.

22:52

I feel like there's a lot of nutrients in this soup because of that "dashi" stock, of course.

22:58

But also the flavors from the "wakame."

23:01

All the energy from the sea has been transported to the "dashi" stock.

23:07

And, you know, when we open the lid there, you can smell that wonderful, refreshing smell of the "kinome," "sansyo."

23:14

That's so really nice as well.

23:15

That really makes you feel like 'Spring has come!'

23:18

Yeah, spring has come!

23:20

OK, please try the bamboo shoot and "wakame."

23:23

OK. Look how we can have so many "sansyo."

23:31

Oh, I love bamboo shoots.

23:34

It's crunchy and yet very soft.

23:38

This "wakame," so thick, very satisfying bite.

23:45

Very nice.

23:46

I'm shocked that we have to cut the "wakame" in a certain way.

23:50

I didn't know we had to do that.

23:52

- But I now see why.
- Why you see.

23:55

- It makes sense.
- Oh, you understand?

23:57

Yes.

23:58

Not too salty?

24:00

It's amazing. It's just perfect. Perfectly balance.

24:05

There's depth to the flavor, with
the "kinome" providing a pleasant kick.

24:10

Yes. So it's layer of flavors.

24:14

- OK. Yu-chan, try the lime udon, too!
- OK.

24:18

I love the presentation. It's so cute.

24:23

Smells wonderful.

24:31

Wow. That's so refreshing.

24:32

Refreshing?

24:33

- I can't believe it's made out of the same "dashi" stock.
- The same "dashi," but different taste.

24:38

Yes, because we added the lime.

24:41

It has that freshness or tartness of the lime.

24:45

"Dashi" is such a versatile stock.

24:49

It works for both hot and cold dishes.

24:53

It goes well with just about everything.

24:57

- May I try that udon?
- Udon. Yes. Please.

25:00

OK.

25:07

- Oh, that's wonderful.
- Thank you.

25:11

So refreshing. This is a perfect meal for spring and early summer.

25:16

Early summer. Yeah.

25:17

That just shows you how important "dashi" stock is.

25:21

"Kaiseki" dishes really are made for all the five senses.

25:26

Five senses, right.

25:28

Today's soup featured bamboo shoots,
"wakame," and "kinome."

25:32

All symbolic of spring.

25:34

It allows you to savor the season.

25:38

It combines ingredients from the sea,
mountain, and fields.

25:43

This makes it even more interesting.

25:47

I do hope you have a chance to have a "kaiseki" dinner.

25:52

It stimulates all five senses.

25:56

I'm sure you'll love it.

26:00

Chef Saito, thank you so much.

26:02

Today's "osuimono" soup course was delicious.

26:05

I can't wait to see what the third course is.

26:08

- So Course three is "otsukuri!"
- Oh, "otsukuri."

26:13

- You mean, like sashimi?
- Sashimi. Right.

26:16

Raw fish. Yeah.

26:18

And then we have grilled dish, a simmer dish, a fried dish, and finally rice with pickles -

26:24

- and, of course, dessert.
- Desserts.

26:28

Well, thank you so much for teaching us today.

26:30

And thank you for watching Dining with the Chef.

26:33

And thank you all for joining us.

26:35

- Yes.
- Thank you.

26:42

Let's review today's recipes.

26:45

First the Wakatake Soup.

26:48

Cut the hard bottom half, against the grain.

26:50

And cut the top half of the bamboo shoots along the grain.

26:53

Cut the "wakame" into four to five centimeter squares to enhance the texture.

26:59

Parboil to plump.

27:01

Make the all-important "dashi" stock with "kombu" and "katsuobushi."

27:09

Season with "usukuchi" soy sauce and salt.

27:11

But don't use too much.

27:14

Add the bamboo shoots and "wakame."

27:18

Arrange the ingredients in the bowl, cover with soup and top with "kinome" and it's done.

27:28

Next, the Dashi Udon with Lime.

27:31

Cut the lime into two millimeter slices.

27:34

Briefly simmer the pre-cooked thin noodles and rinse in cold water.

27:38

Season the "dashi" with soy sauce, "mirin," and salt.

27:42

Pour over the noodles.

27:44

Cover with sliced lime and top with grated "daikon," and it's finished!

27:51

Why not make these delicious Japanese dishes, that highlight the wonderful taste of "dashi?"