Dining with the Chef!

Hello and welcome to the Dining with the Chef.

I'm your host Yu Hayami, and here is our wonderful Chef Saito.

Hello Yu, hello everyone.

So today we are starting a special series!

Yes! All about "Kaiseki", formal Japanese course meals.

That's right.

"Kaiseki" is a traditional multi course Japanese meal, and it requires a special skill to make them.

But today Chef Saito, you are going to teach us how to make these special dishes at home.

Yes.

So my image of "Kaiseki" is... it's very fancy and you are having with sake on special occasions, and you enjoy with family and friends.

Yes, right. Flavor, beauty and season is very important.

So how many courses are there?

Eight.

So what is the first course called?

"Sakizuke."

- Ah.
- So it's a first course, so very important also beautiful.

Oh, I know first impressions are always key, so they set the stage for the next course or for the whole meal.

Whole meal.

Well I can't wait! Chef Saito, shall we?

Yes, let's get started!

Japan is known for its bountiful fresh and delicious ingredients.

Amazing!

Japanese cuisine, guided by traditional culture that you will be able to prepare at home.

Perfect.

Today's dishes are Gomadofu and Karashi Ae Salad.

Let's join Yu Hayami and become Chef Saito's chef apprentices.

Here's our Master Chef, Mr. Tatsuo Saito!

Never a dull moment with Chef Saito!

Authentic Japanese cooking.

Okay, here's what's cooking today.

The first course in a formal kaiseki meal is "sakizuke."

It's the equivalent of an appetizer in Western cuisine.

Today, Chef Saito is going to make Gomadofu, a smooth, tofu-like dish made with sesame rather than soybeans.

Kaiseki cuisine is a celebration of seasons.

This dish highlights the beauty of spring.

Gomadofu is common for "sakizuke."

It's made with sesame paste
and "kuzuko" powder.

And is wonderfully smooth and fragrant.
Perfect for "sakizuke."

The first course sets the scene.

So, it needs served with sake
as soon as the guests are seated.

The idea is to build up anticipation.

I see.

Well Chef, I'm ready to learn.

First, prepare the "kuzuko" starch.

"Kuzuko" is a powdered starch made from the stems of the "kuzu" or arrowroot plant.

It's used to thicken liquids or create a jelly-like texture.

In Japan, it's considered to be a rare, high-quality ingredient.

You can also use cornstarch or potato starch.

Pour the "kuzuko" into a bowl, and add water in increments to prevent lumps from forming.

"Kuzuko" is hard to dissolve and has
strong thickening properties.

So, you need to add water in increments.
And keep on stirring.

Once the "kuzuko" is completely dissolved, add the remaining water.

Okay, just a little bit...

Wow! It's actually quite hard.

- Hard, isn't it?
- Yes, yes.

I guess once it's mixed like this, I can add the water.

Make sure the "kuzuko" is completely dissolved, before adding the remaining water.

- And next, sesame paste.
- Wow.

That gives that wonderful aroma.

Put the sesame paste into a bowl and add the "kuzuko" slurry.

Sesame paste has a high oil content, so you need to add the slurry in increments to properly integrate with the sesame paste.

It's coming together.

Ah I can smell the wonderful sesame aroma.

Right, and then just a little salt.

Oh.

It's not just for taste. The salt helps
to bind the "kuzu" and sesame.

So, it's a must.

Add the slurry in increments to incorporate into the sesame paste.

- Okay, let's heat it.
- Okay.

"Kuzu" hardens when heated.

So, pour the mixture into a saucepan and place over medium heat.

Stir with a wooden spatula.

Now, a Tip from our Chef!

Keep on stirring!

Don't stop stirring.

Oh I will not stop stirring.

This incorporates air into the mixture
so it becomes creamier. So don't stop.

Keep stirring for about 10 minutes.

It'll suddenly start to thicken, so be prepared!

Oh come come come come...

Oh.

- It's started to thicken.
- Oh wow, Chef.

Remove from heat and mix.
Mix well.

Once it starts to thicken, it'll become quite sticky.

So, you need to keep on stirring to prevent it from burning.

Mix vigorously until the consistency is even.

Scoop up and fold over,
scraping the sides of the pan.

- See the bubbles?
- Yes, yes, it's bubbling.

- This indicates the level of heat.
- Oh okay.

- It shouldn't bubble too much.
- Okay.

- Three bubbles is about right.
- Okay 3 pokos.

"Poko" is the sound produced when the bubbles burst.

Knead over low heat so that it bubbles slowly.

This is key to producing a fluffy but firm texture.

- It's going "poko poko."
- Yes.

- This improves the flavor.
- Okay.

Okay you keep the "poko poko" for 10 minutes.

10 minutes "poko poko."

Okay okay.

Wow, lot of stirring.

You want to eat the delicious gomadofu.

- Yes I would love to.
- "Poko poko" 10 minutes.

Okay, I will "poko poko"... okay.

Wow... the color is so beautiful.

It's getting little glossy.

- The color is changing.
- Yes.

As the "kuzu" and sesame are integrated,
it starts to glisten.

I see.

No bubble, no gloss.

No bubble, no gloss. Okay.

Three minutes to go.

We're into the final stretch.

Chef, your hand movement is getting faster.

Faster.

It's hardening quickly, so you have to knead faster to prevent it from burning.

Three minutes later...

See how the mixture falls off
the rubber spatula?

How's this?

Perfect.

Like mochi.

Yes, yes.

Almost done.

Next, wrap in the plastic wrap.

- Oh we have to wrap.
- And chill.

Yes and we have to chill.

Place a small bowl on a kitchen scale, cover with plastic wrap and measure 50g of the mixture.

Wrap, twist and secure with a rubber band.

You can eat 50g in 2 or 3 bites.

A "sakizuke" shouldn't be too filling.

Okay and then we lift it up like so into a ball and you said put it on your thumb.

Hold the rubber band in place with your
thumb and wrap it around twice.

And then...

And then fold it over.

Oh...

Ta-da!

Ta-da!

Okay, nice!

Shape into a little ball.

It's spring, so I'm making a bouncy,
round shape.

For summer, a square shape will
conjure up cool images of ice.

- So the "gomadofu" can be made to reflect the season.
- That's true, Chef.

It's very important to have
a seasonal theme in "kaiseki."

- 4 seasons.
- 4 seasons.

So is it always 8 courses?

Not always, but yes, usually 8.

The "sakizuke" is first.
Then comes soup.

Then sashimi, a grilled dish, a simmered
dish, a fried dish, rice, and dessert.

It satisfies you're your
appetite and senses.

Everything is so well far out.

There's an element of anticipation
about what will come next.

How will the seasonal ingredients be
selected, prepared and presented?

"Kaiseki" provides an understanding of
culinary techniques and sensibilities.

The "sakizuke" is a cold dish
that represents the season.

- Next comes a hot, clear soup.
- Ah.

Next, sashimi law fish, very cold.

I see.

Different temperatures,
different textures.

It's like listening to a symphony.

Oh that's beautiful.

It starts quietly, building up to a
climax and then gradually calming down.

Chill the gomadofu in iced water for about half an hour.

All right.

What's next?

Make a sauce.

The dashi, made from "kombu" and "katsuobushi," determines the flavor of the sauce.

Gently wipe off any grit from the "kombu."

Be careful not to remove the white umami powder.

Add the "kombu" to a pot of water, place over medium-high heat and maintain a gentle boil for 10 minutes to extract the umami flavor.

Bring to a boil and after 30 seconds, remove the "kombu."

Add water to reduce to a simmer.

Add the "katsuobushi" or dried skipjack flakes and bring to a boil for 20 seconds while skimming off the surface residue.

Turn off the heat and let the "katsuobushi" sink about halfway to the bottom.

Then, filter through a strainer lined with paper towels.

Now you have a fragrant and delicious golden dashi.

For the sauce, combine 100ml of dashi, 1 tbsp of "mirin," and 60ml of soy sauce and bring to a boil.

Turn off the heat and pour into a bowl to cool.

So next, prepare the garnish.

Now, a Tip from our Chef!

"Kaiseki" is all about expressing the seasons.

Use colorful garnishes to convey the joy of spring.

Use spring colors like
pink "hanaho shiso" and red radishes.

Yes, I agree. I mean that it looks spring like.

Cut the radishes into thin slices.

Soak in water to prevent them from curling up.

"Hanaho shiso," the flowering bud of "shiso" plant, is a popular Japanese herb with a distinct and refreshing aroma.

Grate fresh wasabi if available.

But you can use wasabi paste that comes in a tube.

- Let's arrange to serve.
- Okay.

Dishes are a fun part of "Kaiseki."

Integral to "kaiseki" is the "oshiki" or lacquered tray which acts as a canvas or frame for presenting the seasonal theme.

The selection of dishes is part of the meal.

The tray, the chopsticks, the chopstick rest, and the bowl of course, they all have a feel of what the season represents.

Yes, season.

- In this case, we are doing a spring.
- Yeah, spring.

- So it has a very spring feel to it like cherry blossoms and pink.
- Yes.

Okay.

So please.

All right. Then...

Gomadofu.

Gomadofu!

Use your imagination.

Oh gosh, they are so cute.

I really like this but I'm going to choose this one.

Okay.

This one.

Oh yes! Chef, that's very you.

- I recommend flat bowls for spring.
- Oh really?

- For winter, a slightly deeper dish.
- Oh deeper, okay.

A flat dish lets in the breeze,
whereas a deep dish keeps the cold out.

We're doing a whole series focusing on
various aspects of "kaiseki."

Yay!

Chef Saito chooses a red tray, a dish with gold lines, a chopstick rest shaped like a cherry blossom, and black chopsticks.

Yu chooses a pink tray, a delicate pale pink dish, a chopstick rest in the shape of a cherry blossom, and red chopsticks to convey a sense of spring.

- Perfect.
- Perfect.

Okay, let's arrange to serve.

Yes.

Remove the rubber band and unwrap the gomadofu.

Oh.

Wow, it's giggling.

"Purupuru."

Yes it's "purupuru" giggly.

Carefully place it on the dish.

Yes, wow... it looks good.

Top with radish slices, sea urchin, "hanaho shiso," and wasabi.

Drizzle the sauce around the gomadofu.

Ah beautiful.

- As a mild soy sauce taste.
- Yeah.

This is nice. This looks really yummy.

Okay.

Both presentations look amazing.

It looks very springy.

Very spring and it's finished!

And now for another "sakizuke" appetizer featuring rapini, a quintessential spring vegetable sometimes referred to as field mustard.

Also, edible chrysanthemum flowers add a touch of color.

So next, we are preparing rapini with a Japanese-style mustard dressing.

Yes.

And this will also be served as "sakizuke," first course.

Yes.

Rapini has bitterness.

Yes, I love that bitterness.

Actually many spring vegetables have that bitterness.

Right.

Spring vegetables like rapini tend to be slightly bitter.

It's the unmistakable taste of spring.

First, boil the rapini.

Cut the rapini in half.

Boil a pot of water and add a couple of pinches of salt to brighten the color of the rapini.

Add the rapini to the boiling water and cook for about a minute until the stalks are slightly tender.

Then, shock in ice water and drain.

Okay, also for more spring feel, add flowers.

Yes, I love the chrysanthemum petals.

They really add the nice color and nice touch to any dish.

- Accent.
- Yes.

And we also have "tonburi."

Do you know "tonburi?"

Ah isn't it called the garden caviar?

Right.

Right? "Tonburi" because it looks like caviar but its not as expensive as caviar.

"Tonburi" or garden caviar is a spring ingredient with a plump and popping texture very much like caviar.

"Tonburi" are seeds from the summer cypress.

- Texture is "puchipuchi."
- Yes.

They really does look like caviar.

Yeah, looks like caviar.

Tear the chrysanthemum flowers and blanch in boiling water with a dash of vinegar.

The vinegar will help to fix the color.

Plunge in cold water and drain.

Add the "tonburi" to a tea strainer to blanch and shock in cold water, then drain.

Okay, let's make the dressing.

Mix the white miso, Japanese mustard, dashi, and "usukuchi" soy sauce to make the dressing.

It has a nice thickness, I can see how it would coat the rapini very nicely.

Oh spicy.

Because of the Japanese mustard right?

Japanese mustard goes very well
with spring vegetables.

Add the rapini and chrysanthemum flowers and mix evenly.

Beautiful spring colors.

"Nanohana" blossoms are yellow,
so I added chrysanthemum flowers.

It's a vegan dish but we want to make it
look gorgeous.

Using "tonburi" for garnish will give
it an interesting texture.

- Chef, that's beautiful.
- Thank you.

It's finished!

Both dishes are now ready to serve.

They're bursting with the joy of spring.

So today, we learned about the first course of a "kaiseki" meal: "sakizuke."

Yeah.

"Kaiseki" starts with "sakizuke," so it's very important!

That's right.

So, of course, the ingredients are very important, but the way it is presented is very important.

Yes! Today's "kaiseki" feels like spring.

Yes!

Just by looking at it, I can tell it's a spring on "kaiseki" because of the green and the yellow.

And of course, the way we chose the dishes as well.

So Kaiseki is served with sake.

Then shall we toast?

- Kanpai.
- Kanpai.

Mmm.

And I'm sure these dishes will go very well with the sake as well.

Okay. So may I try the gomadofu?

- Please enjoy "kaiseki" first appetizer.
- Yes! Thank you.

My favorite sesame tofu.

Now, this one is very extravagant because it has "uni" on it as well.

Wow, very soft.

Mmm.

That's really good.

So, of course, the texture is a bit sticky, like mochi, - but it's very fragrant with the sesame paste.
- Yes.

And it's just very interesting how it's combined with the seafood flavor, "uni."

So different texture.

It is. And because the sea urchin and the gomadofu is very soft, It's very nice to have the contrast of the radish, very crunchy.

Right. I think so.

This "sakizuke" allows you to savor spring
with all five senses.

Yes, I feel like spring is entering into my body.

- Very nice.
- Yeah.

Okay. Try the rapini, too.

Yes!

Oh, now, the color combination of this dish is just spring itself.

Yeah.

Hmm.

The Japanese mustard definitely is hot.

- Yeah.
- It's spicy hot.

But it goes really well with the bitterness that the rapini has.

And as we mentioned before, a lot of the spring vegetables are a bit of bitter.

Bitter.

And I think it's sort of to get your body ready for the next season.

Yes.

Spring is the start of the new year,
so it has a special significance.

Spring ingredients will help keep you
healthy the rest of the year.

I think it awakens your senses because it's the beginning of the new year.

"Kaiseki" is all about the seasons.

You use the "gomadofu" toppings to
create a spring canvas.

You want to express the joy, warmth,
and expectation of spring.

The "sakizuke" builds up anticipation
for what will be served next.

I hope you'll enjoy making
"sakizuke" dishes at home.

So Chef Saito, what comes for a second course?

Second course, "Osuimono." Warm soup!

I see. Because these two dishes are served cold. The next dishes are warm.

- That's amazing!
- Like music.

Right.

Well, Chef Saito, thank you so much for teaching us today.

And I can't wait for our next lesson.

Yeah.

And thank you all for joining us.

- Yes.
- Thank you.

This is wonderful.

- Did you try some?
- Okay.

Let's review today's recipes.

First, the gomadofu.

Prepare the "kuzuko" slurry, adding water in increments.

Incorporate the sesame paste and "kuzuko" slurry.

Add a pinch of salt and place over medium heat.

Whisk continuously to gradually thicken.

After 10 minutes, form 50g bowls, secure with a rubber band and chill in ice water.

Top with radish slices, sea urchin and other spring colors, drizzle with sauce and it's finished.

Next, the Karashi Ae Salad.

Cut the rapini in half and boil in salted water.

Plunge in ice water to fix the color.

Blanch the chrysanthemum flowers in boiling water with a dash of vinegar.

Combine the white miso, Japanese mustard, dashi, "usukuchi" soy sauce to make the dressing.

Mix in the rapini and chrysanthemum flowers and garnish with "tonburi" and you are done.

Celebrate the arrival spring at your house with these delicious recipes!