"Journeys in Japan"

Geto Kogen lies in a "gosetsu chitai."

That's the Japanese term for an area that gets extremely heavy snowfall.

In an average year,

about five meters of snow falls on this part of Iwate Prefecture.

For some skiers, that's a turn-off.

But there's a resort here with runs

that take full advantage of these extreme conditions,

and it's attracting enthusiasts from around the world.

It's just wonderful. The snow's great. It really is.

That's why we came here, the snow. Yeah, the "yuki."

First time to Geto, but we ski quite a lot.

Michael Keida is an actor from the United States.

He's come to Geto Kogen with his wife, Kumiko.

They try out a tree run, boarding downhill through the forest.

That's something you can only do in a "gosetsu" region.

It's amazing to be out here in the wild.

This part of Japan is also famous for its hot springs.

There's nothing like heating up in an "onsen"

after a day playing outside in the cold.

I do fall sometimes too.

On this edition of "Journeys in Japan,"

Michael and Kumiko discover the deep enjoyment of gosetsu snow,

an experience for true powder-hounds.

Geto Kogen: Deep Powder Dreams

Geto Kogen lies in the uplands of Iwate Prefecture,

around 400 kilometers north of Tokyo.

Hi, I'm Michael Keida.

I'm originally from New York so I love lots of snow.

This time, I've come to Geto Kogen.

A place, thanks to the topography, has lots of deep powder.

And on this trip, I've brought my wife.

Hi, I'm Kumiko.

I'm here to have some fun... and keep an eye on Michael.

Alright, let's get started.

It's 8 AM, and the ski slope is not yet officially open.

Michael and Kumiko are starting their day with some fresh tracks.

This is something very few ski resorts in Japan offer.

You board the gondola before it opens to the general public.

And then you get to carve the very first tracks.

It's really beautiful.

It looks different when the sun is out.

Yes, it's sparkling.

How great is this?

The snow is so glittery.

There are no tracks at all.

Such a great opportunity.

Let's take it slow.

I'll go down first.

Enjoy.

Kumiko, your turn!

It feels so good!

All OK?

You've carved a beautiful track.

I can see my line clearly.

I've never seen my tracks as clear as this.

I often try to get out to get my first tracks,

but I've never had really a chance to

stop and look at how the line has worked out.

Kind of teaches me, you know,

what kind of carving I'm doing and where I can improve.

After that, they try a tree run.

It's a magical experience you can only enjoy in a gosetsu region,

where the shrubs and shorter trees are buried deep under the snow.

There's an information desk at the resort

where you can get the lowdown from one of the guides.

Can you tell me how to get to the tree runs?

We have many tree run zones here.

They're the areas in a darker color.

At this resort, there are nine tree run areas.

It's most unusual to find a ski resort in Japan

with such a large area devoted to tree runs.

Have you ever done a tree run?

A few.

It's the first time for me.

We have tree runs for all levels of skill.

You can start with one for beginners.

Do we decide for ourselves which level?

It's safer to go in a group of two or more.

If you hire a guide,

they will pick the run best suited for you.

We'd like to do that.

Where shall we start?

Let's go for the basic level.

Here's the entrance to a tree run. It's called the Rabbit.

It's Level Two, which requires only basic skills.

If you nail this one, we can go to a higher level.

There's less snow this year, so some bushes remain above the snow.

Careful not to hit them.

How are you feeling?

A bit tense.

Let's go slow.

Let's go in.

Who's next?

OK?

The snow is softer here in the woods.

Totally different.

I'll wait for you at the bottom.

Do you want to go ahead?

After you.

There's been quite a lot less snow this winter.

Even so, it's nearly three meters deep, and that's plenty enough.

I'm a bit nervous about how to pick my route.

You can do it, Kumiko.

You did great.

How did you like your first tree run?

It's different from the main slopes, so I was nervous.

The surface is uneven, and there are lots of trees.

But it was fun.

Shall we do a more difficult run?

I think you'll both be OK.

Let's do a longer run next.

This is the entrance.

There's a nice easy gradient at the start.

You can take it easy and enjoy the ride.

We'll stop before it gets steeper.

Let's start.

This one is easier than the first run.

- Alright?
- I'm good.

But you can't let your guard down.

In the tree run zones, the snow isn't packed down at all,

so it's a totally different environment

compared to a standard groomed ski slope.

We'll go to the right from here.

There are big streams on both sides.

We'll go down the ridge in the middle,

then we'll cross the stream on the right.

We will all cross the stream at the same point,

so we'll stop before that.

Don't go to the left of the red arrows.

Let's go.

The most difficult aspect of tree runs

is choosing your line through the woods.

But you'll find signs posted in places where it might be easy to get lost,

so no need to worry.

Now we'll cross the stream here.

We'll do it one at a time.

Well done!

What fun!

Where are you from?

Niigata.

How did you hear about Geto?

By word of mouth.

A friend told me it was a crazy place.

And when I got here I found she was right.

I don't know of any other ski resorts

with tree run areas as large as ours.

Has your riding style changed here?

It has.

I've got better on powder snow.

But now I'm worse on actual ski slopes.

It's always snowing here,

so we don't have many groomed ski slopes.

That's amazing. I'm jealous!

This area is famous for its natural hot springs.

This resort has a large onsen bath on the premises,

so you can go for a nice hot soak as soon as you come in from the slopes.

One thing I love so much about Japan is that after a day spent out in the cold,

you can always return to an onsen and heat your body up and just relax.

These days, Geto Kogen is known well beyond Japan,

and a growing number of visitors are arriving from abroad.

Why did you choose Geto?

You mean, because the powder snow is very good here?

It's a nice mountain, nice lifts, nice layout.

- The layout and everything?
- The layout is nice, yes.

The gondolas are nice.

Got some nice tree skiing.

- Did you get into the trees?
- We did.

I mean, it was great. The tree runs were great.

You know, like yesterday, we had some goodish powder.

So that was fun.

There's good variety also for the tree runs.

We did some back country as well so that was great.

Just to, you know, explore the area.

Yeah, the onsen was also nice.

The Geto Kogen ski resort opened in 1990,

at the peak of Japan's skiing boom.

But because of the heavy snowfall,

it's just not possible to keep the runs groomed.

This was off-putting for skiers who preferred well maintained slopes,

and the resort found it hard to survive.

But things changed in 2013,

when the resort was taken over by Sugawara Sadahide,

one of the most ardent skiers in Japan.

His catchphrase for promoting Geto was simply the word "gosetsu."

For him, the massive snowfall in this area was not a disadvantage.

It was his trump card.

I'd never heard the word "gosetsu" before.

How come you're using it to promote Geto?

It might sound like a negative for some people.

But I thought others might find it appealing.

I love skiing and I ski every day.

I really enjoy powder.

One time I was skiing through the woods

and really loving being in the trees.

I was sure that other people would love it, too.

Instead of keeping this amazing experience off-limits...

I decided to come up with safety measures

and create a place that everyone can enjoy.

Safety is the top priority, and staff patrol the area thoroughly.

If they spot any overhanging snow cornices that might collapse,

they knock them down immediately.

The patrols cover the whole area each morning.

The tree runs are checked with especial care.

The other day, we rescued a person who took a wrong turn into this stream.

If you follow the arrows, you'll be alright.

In the tree runs, we try to keep it looking as natural as possible.

If we put up tape everywhere,

people won't enjoy the nature so much.

People from other resorts say

it's great they can ski so freely here.

No winter visit to Geto Kogen

is complete without heading off-piste with a guide

for some backcountry skiing.

Michael and Kumiko will be heading right up into the mountains.

All the equipment they need can be rented,

and the guides will explain everything in full.

Are you OK?

It's heavy!

Let's head out. I'll lead the way.

It's easier for me if you go ahead.

Outside the resort, you are completely out in the wild.

It's a fantastic experience,

but you need to be alert for danger at any moment.

That's our goal... the peak over there.

You see where the snow is overhanging?

Those are cornices.

If you step on one, it might collapse.

Don't walk any further to the right than me.

To be safe, stay on my left.

Views like this are one of the perks of backcountry skiing.

I've never seen cornices up close.

You've maybe seen them in photos or videos.

It takes them about an hour to reach the mountain top.

We've reached the top of Mt. Usagimori.

What a view!

The snow-capped mountains of Tohoku stretch out all around.

It's a sight that rewards only those ready to make their way up on foot.

Now for the fun part.

I'm nervous but excited!

Time to put on our snowboards.

It's nice to have a professional, experienced rider go before me,

because I've never been here before and I really don't know the layout.

So, it's nice to see her, how she's going to go down.

That tells me where to go, and where not to go.

We'll be following you.

Let's go!

Nice powder.

Nice!

The snow is so fluffy.

It's amazing to be out here in the wild.

You didn't fall once.

I did OK.

We've got the whole place to ourselves.

To go backcountry skiing, you first have to climb the mountain.

And then, head down uncharted virgin slopes.

It's the ultimate form of skiing

and offers the thrill of both fresh tracks and tree runs.

That was fun.

Kumiko, you did really well on the climb.

All that effort was really worth it.

This year there's been less snow than usual.

Only about half as much.

But there's still a lot of snow.

It's nice the conditions are so good.

I've been a snowboarder for almost my entire life,

and I've had the opportunity to ride in almost every prefecture in Japan.

But this is my first time to Iwate.

I heard about Geto's reputation for deep powder and great terrain,

but I never expected so many different runs,

both on and off the main slope.

And after spending a few days in the trees,

it's taught me one thing about riding,

sometimes it's best to let nature choose your run.

How about you?

I had a lot of first-time experiences. It was really great fun.

I discovered so many ways to have fun outside in winter!

To reach Geto Kogen from Tokyo,

it takes about two and a half hours to Kitakami

by Shinkansen bullet train.

From there, the free shuttle-bus service

takes about an hour to the resort.