"Journeys in Japan"

Japan's medieval castles. They're more than just historical artifacts.

They are time capsules,

where memories of yesterday speak to dreams for tomorrow.

In this city, Aizuwakamatsu,

young people gave up their lives to defend their castle.

Today, it is a place of peace and calm, a place for contemplation,

and reflecting on the past.

Meanwhile, the next generation prepares for the future.

On this edition of "Journeys in Japan,"

Tsuruga Castle, the iconic heart of Aizuwakamatsu.

Tsuruga Castle, Where the Past Meets the Present

The city of Aizuwakamatsu lies some 200 kilometers north of Tokyo,

in the western part of Fukushima Prefecture.

James Lambiasi is an American architect who lives and works in Tokyo.

Aizuwakamatsu lies on the edge of the fertile Aizu Basin.

Tsuruga Castle stands on a hill,

looking out over the wide plain.

Japan's history had long periods of war between feuding regions

and through fierce competition,

warlords would build huge structures to protect their domains.

These structures were castles.

For today's journey, I would like to explore Aizuwakamatsu Castle.

It's said that this castle represents a very important transition

between samurai society and Japan's modern age.

I'm really looking forward to visiting

Aizuwakamatsu Castle with you today.

So, let's begin.

Wow, this is just magnificent.

Today, I get to meet someone who knows a lot about this castle.

I think that's him there.

- Hello, are you Mr. Kondo?
- Yes, that's me.

Nice to meet you.

Kondo Masao is a curator at Tsuruga Castle.

The stone wall is magnificent.

It was built about 400 years ago.

It's more than 20 meters high.

It's vertical at the top, but the lower part curves outward.

It's a very beautiful structure.

Take note of the subtle slope here.

Not only is this very good in defending against potential attackers,

but construction-wise,

it's working with gravity to push against the Earth

to form a very strong retaining wall.

This is the castle's main keep.

Absolutely beautiful!

There has been a castle here for around 640 years.

Although the main keep has been rebuilt,

its original stone foundations remain untouched.

From here, you can see three different types of wall.

The base of the tower is built in the "nozurazumi" style.

It's said to be the original stone wall,

erected when the castle was first built here.

It's constructed using large stones of different sizes.

In this style, the stones are all natural and unfinished.

This is the second oldest of the stone walls.

The wall here is built in the "uchikomihagi" style.

The stones have been smoothed to make a flat surface,

with grooves cut across their surface for greater effect.

The newest of the three walls is this one.

This style of wall is known as "kirikomihagi."

It's typical of the late Edo period (19th century).

One characteristic of this style is that the stones are cut in straight lines.

This large stone is the "kagami-ishi" or "mirror stone."

Often stones like this are installed to demonstrate the lord's dignity,

or to ward off malignant spirits.

So, by standing here looking at the different types of walls,

we're able to see how they evolved throughout history.

Not only did they develop in terms of defense,

but in appearance as well.

This is the very bottom of the castle keep.

The wall here is made of very thick stones,

which prevents the outside air from getting in.

The temperature stays the same, winter or summer.

Provisions such as preserved foods and salt were stored here,

in readiness for being besieged in war.

There is a good view from here.

Don't you think it's sad that

the walls are the only surviving parts of the original castle.

Yes, but it's difficult to preserve wooden buildings.

But memories of those days remain in our hearts.

Close to the castle stands a large gymnasium.

The local children gather here for special training sessions.

It's a martial art using pole arms known as "naginata."

These students are training ahead of an upcoming competition.

Naginata were first used as battlefield weapons

from around the 12th century.

Thanks to their length, the opponent can be kept at a good distance.

The head is used to attack the opponent's legs.

These days, naginata is a modern martial art

with a focus on training the spirit.

Historical accounts say that women warriors in Aizu

sometimes joined the battlefront with their naginata.

Even today, many women practice this martial art.

I took up naginata because my elder sister does it.

This place is important because we learn manners

and many other things besides naginata.

It helps me to grow and improve.

I can really feel a power from winning and making progress.

In the old days, this was the garden of the feudal lord

who ruled Aizu from Tsuruga Castle.

Oh wow, this is such a beautiful garden.

I really do feel like I'm in Kyoto.

This garden is called Oyakuen.

This garden was also used for growing medicinal herbs.

It dates back some 600 years.

This land was originally the site of a warlord's villa,

chosen for its abundant spring water.

Later, it was developed into a garden

for the feudal lords of the Matsudaira family,

who ruled the Aizu domain.

Standing in this Japanese garden, I'm stunned by the beauty.

But you also have to remember

that there's political motivations behind what we see.

They were able to say this microcosm of nature is our world,

and we are able to control worlds as well.

The word "yaku" in the name means "medicine."

This isn't an ordinary garden, is it?

That's right. Let's go this way.

Many medicinal herbs are growing in this area.

This is where medicinal herbs were grown

for generations of the Aizu lords

to prevent and cure illnesses.

In the latter half of the 17th century,

the lord encouraged the cultivation of medicinal herbs,

to maintain the health of the local people.

Various medicinal herbs are grown at Oyakuen.

This one is the best known: "otaneninjin."

This is a type of ginseng, known here as otaneninjin.

Since ancient times, it has been considered the ultimate medicine.

The lords of Aizu encouraged its cultivation.

To this day, otaneninjin is known as a local specialty of Aizu.

Shimizu Taku is one of the ginseng cultivators.

All this area covered by the black nets is a ginseng field.

This is where we grow otaneninjin. It takes two years to prepare the soil.

After sowing the seeds,

it takes five years before the otaneninjin is ready to be harvested.

This is a five-year-old otaneninjin root.

In the old days, the more the root had a shape like a person,

the higher the price it would fetch.

I don't want the history of otaneninjin to die out.

I hope we increase production and get more growers.

What is this?

It's an interesting structure, isn't it?

This prayer hall is known as Sazaedo.

The word "sazae" means a kind of shellfish, doesn't it?

Once you see inside, you'll understand why it has been given that name.

I'll show you around.

Thank you.

Iimori Masanori is the owner of the Sazaedo.

It still looks just the way it was when it was built 300 years ago.

It evokes the spiral shape of a shellfish,

and it has been designated an Important Cultural Property of the nation.

This is a statue of Ikudo,

the priest who designed this prayer hall.

I've never seen anything like this before. Everything here is sloping!

Amazing.

There used to be Kannon statues in these alcoves.

Visitors would pray at each one as they went past.

Next, we climb over this "taikobashi" (arched bridge).

We've reached the very top of the Sazaedo.

This is wonderful.

As an architect, I feel I'm seeing something totally new.

This looks exactly like where we climbed up.

But we were actually on the floor above this.

The ceiling for us as we go down is the floor for the people going up.

We were walking on the floor above. Amazing!

Thanks to its double-helix structure,

the stairway to the top is quite separate from the stairs leading down.

Some European church towers have a similar double-helix structure,

but Sazaedo is unique in Japan.

You can hear the footsteps of the people walking above.

This building really is amazing.

By separating it into two layers,

the people going up and down are entirely separated

and they never have to cross paths.

It really is a technological wonder.

Here it is!

Welcome!

Just one person?

Yes.

Please look at our menu.

We use local Nishiaizu buckwheat which we grind in a stone mill.

Baba Naobumi runs this soba noodle restaurant with his family.

Baba is quite unusual in that he started his career in Italian cuisine.

He even went to work in Italy.

When I went abroad I realized I didn't know anything about Japanese culture.

When I first came here,

I realized that soba is one element of Japanese culture.

So I changed my direction.

In Japan, buckwheat has been eaten since ancient times,

but the idea of cutting buckwheat dough into noodles began in the 17th century.

The first lord of Aizu came from a region known for eating soba noodles

and is said to have brought skilled soba artisans with him.

The actual job of making and cooking the noodles is done by Baba's wife,

while his mother-in-law cooks the tempura.

And the family cat is there at the entrance to welcome customers.

Here's your soba.

This is country-style soba served with tempura.

It has a darker color than ordinary soba. I'll try it.

It has a firm texture, and a fine aroma.

Tempura with soba is always a popular combination.

But it's very unusual to find herring fish prepared as tempura.

The batter is crunchy and the inside is soft. It's delicious.

Really good!

In the summer, people gather at a Buddhist temple in Aizu for an event.

This temple, called Hachiyoji, dates back to the year 964.

This dance, Kuya Nenbutsu Odori, is performed each summer.

As the name suggests,

this dance was spread here in Aizu by the Buddhist saint, Kuya.

The aim is to calm the souls of the ancestors,

before they return to their homes during the Bon period.

The origin of the dance goes back to a priest called Kuya,

who lived in the tenth century.

He used to pray for the spirits of those who died without any living relatives.

Hachiyoji is thought to be the place where Kuya died.

In the old days, people often used to dance as a form of prayer.

However, the practice gradually faded

after the temple was burnt down in war in 1589.

But 100 years ago, the dance was revived.

Now it's been designated as "an important part of the local culture."

People around the world of different cultures

pay respect to their dead in different ways.

In Japan, and especially here in Aizuwakamatsu,

it's very important to come together in August to pay their respects.

This has been a very special opportunity for me.

James has come to a site

that was very important for the samurai warriors in Aizu.

This is called Nisshinkan. It was a school for elite samurai children.

I see.

When Nisshinkan was founded in 1803,

it offered the highest level of education in the Aizu domain.

The current structure is a replica of the original.

Is that a statue of Confucius?

That's right.

Confucius was a philosopher who lived in China some 2,500 years ago.

What connection did the samurai have with Confucius?

Children of elite samurai entered this school at age ten.

They studied academic subjects, practiced martial arts,

and trained hard to grow, both physically and spiritually.

The teachings of Confucius underpinned the students' education.

Confucianism preaches that the ideal society

should be based on love and established rituals.

In feudal Japan, this was considered fundamental for educating samurai.

The classrooms were in here.

They studied many subjects, including Confucianism and Western science.

It seems there was a system that allowed outstanding students to jump grades.

Nisshinkan was not only a place for academic studies.

The students were also trained in the martial arts.

They were given a full training in archery.

And they also learned how to use guns.

This pond about 150 meters in circumference

was the very first training pool in Japan.

The students are said to have swum among the water lilies.

However, war broke out in 1868

and the Nisshinkan was destroyed in the fighting.

It was only rebuilt in 1987, more than 100 years later.

It took a long time before this was rebuilt, didn't it?

For the people of Aizu, this school was very important.

But due to circumstances, time was needed to rebuild it.

The conflict pitted the forces of the new Meiji government

against those of the ousted Tokugawa shoguns.

The Aizu domain was on the side of the Tokugawa shogunate.

It fought fiercely but was defeated.

That led to the downfall of the Aizu domain.

Even though they were still teenagers,

the young students at Nisshinkan became involved in the fighting.

They were assigned to a military unit called the Byakkotai.

But they were cornered and fled up to a mountain.

As it became increasing clear that the Aizu domain was facing defeat,

many of the young men committed suicide.

To this day, the site of this tragic event

is cared for by the people of Aizu.

So this is it.

They killed themselves because they can see the castle from here.

The death of the Byakkotai who were just children,

truly is a testament to the futility of war.

Every time I visit a castle town in Japan,

I am impressed that people I speak with

have very strong thoughts and feelings about its history.

And in Aizuwakamatsu as well, even after hundreds of years,

the culture and customs that were established here

have remained deep rooted and widespread.

I believe this is because the castle has taken shape

over time by heartfelt care

and aspirations of the people who live here.

Even if it represents painful memories,

the people of Aizuwakamatsu will still cherish their castle.

The original wooden structure is now a castle rebuilt in concrete,

but its long legacy still inspires its people.

I hope you enjoyed exploring this castle town of Aizuwakamatsu as much as I have

and that you join me for future "Journeys in Japan."

To reach Aizuwakamatsu from Tokyo,

you take the Shinkansen to Koriyama, then change on to a local train.

In all, it takes about three hours.