Arcos de la Frontera, Spain

Just look at that sunrise!

Here I am beginning my day in Arcos de la Frontera in southern Spain.

All the pure white houses shimmer and shine under when hit by the rays of the sun.

I guess that is to be expected, as this town is the gateway to the Route of the White Villages, a scenic route very popular with tourists.

I'm on a bus that's taking me to Arcos.

Is Arcos that town up there on the cliff?

It looks like I'll be doing quite a bit of walking.

Okay, I'm here at the bus terminal at the foot of the hill.

I wonder what I'll be discovering today.

Very exciting!

Well, I'm ready to explore and discover!!

It's now 10:00 AM.

I think I'll check my map before I hit the streets.

I got off the bus in the new part of town.

The old part of town is up on top of the hill.

Looks like I'll be climbing a lot of stairs.

Are those the stairs?

Good morning.

Good morning.

Where's the old section of town?

Up the stairs.

May I ask what you all are doing here?

We’re schoolmates.

Oh, you're all students...

A hotelier’s school.

So, you're all interested in working at a hotel?

And see people from around the world.

What kind of place is Arcos?

It has the best food in the world.

Any recommendations?

Ham.

Ham, and also cheese.

Wine, and sherry too.

They’re famous worldwide.

That's something to look forward to.

So, do I go up those stairs?

Up that stairway,
then another stairway.

There are even more stairs?

Yes.

After that stairway
there’s a longer one.

Go all the way up, and
you’ll find old town.

How long is longer?

You need strong legs.

It takes physical fitness.

You're scaring me.

Have a good day.

You too.

Study hard.

Now, where's that long stairway?

Hmm? Is that it?

Okay, here I go.

The couple in front of me is taking the challenge, too.

They must be tourists.

I’m exhausted.

What?

- This was your idea!
- Yes, but it’s hard.

Please slow down.

Yes, this is quite a climb!

It’s good for your health!

What for?

Ahh, how sweet!

Bye.

We’re almost there.

My legs hurt.

Whew. Getting close to the end.

This is hard.

Just a bit more.

You two are meeting the challenge!

I almost gave up.

We’re here.

Ahh. The white townscape.

Bye.

Bye. Have a nice trip.

The old town is... Maybe be this direction.

Just look at all those white buildings.

It's almost blinding.

Hmm? What's that sound?

It's coming from this bar.

Hmm? Flamenco music?

Good morning.

Good morning.

I was drawn by the music.

Are you playing the castanets?

Castanets.

They sounded really nice.

That's so amazing!

Been playing them long?

Since I was very small.

Really?

I was born playing them.

How fabulous!

Using your hands like this...

and dance.

That's amazing!

Thank you so much!

Bye.

She tells me she was born playing castanets.

Ah, it's so grand being in Spain!

This street is not so steep.

Ah, those sculptures are holding crosses.

They're hooded, with just the eyes showing.

Rather strange attire.

I wonder who they represent?

I think I'll ask those gentlemen.

Hello.

Good morning.

Are you residents here?

Yes, of Arcos.

What are these figures?

A Holy Week monument.

It has a long tradition.

Holy Week?

Floats with holy figures are paraded.

Uh-huh... Floats.

That must be a sight to see.

Would you like to see the
Christ figure in a church nearby?

Definitely!

Come, we’ll take you.

Floats have been paraded
here since the 16th century.

I see.

You're so knowledgeable.

I’ve researched the church history and
I’m a float carrying team member.

Thank you so much!

It’s just 20 meters ahead.

We’re Holy Week enthusiasts.

Festival enthusiasts, I see.

It’s this church, built in 1595.

Oh, this is the church?

Is it all right if I enter?

Please come in.

Thank you.

That’s the Christ
figure, made in 1545.

Ahh, so they parade that figure around the streets.

I’ll show you some old photos.

This is in front of your house.

M-hm.

May I take a look?

This is old Arcos.

So that's a festival float.

And what's on the float?

The Christ figure.

I see.

And people parade through the town in this attire.

Floats barely passing between
balconies are an awe-inspiring sight.

M-hm.

And you carry the floats too?

I carried them since 1992, until
the parade was canceled in 2020.

Interesting.

Thank you so much.

Parades continued even during
wars and the Spanish flu pandemic.

But it’s been canceled for
two years by COVID-19.

We’re hoping the parade
can be held this year.

I hope so too.

This year is special.

We’ll do our best to have it.

Bye-bye.

See you. Bye.

Oh, I forgot to ask about those hoods.

I'll check my guidebook.

"The hoods signify sinners.

They're worn during Holy Week as an act of repenting sins."

Oh, a narrow alley way.

This is nice.

Ah, that wall up ahead is covered with colorful ornaments.

Fascinating!

Ah, they're flowerpots.

Wow.

Hmm? What's going on over there?

Uh-huh.

She's watering the plants.

Is this your job?

I’m commissioned by the
town office to water the pots.

So how many plants do you water?

Many. Thousands.

That's lot of work.

Oh, look at the flower blossoms.

You’ll see more in spring.

Of course.

It must look so stunning when the flowers are in bloom.

Cars run through narrow streets like this.

That one has quite a few scratches.

Good morning.

Good morning.

Out for shopping?

I’m back from shopping.

I see.

That’s my house.

Um...

The streets are so narrow, but you drive your car up here?

The parking space is a bit far.

This makes it easier than
carrying things on foot.

Uh-huh.

Ah, bottles of water.

Those look heavy.

It’s routine.

Really?

Oh, excuse me.

You've left your car doors open.

Hello?

He's gone.

Hmm? What are these?

Is this your yard?

My house is there. This is a plaza.

What are the green things?

Exercise machines for anyone to use.

Huh? How?

Like this.

I see.

Really great for exercising!

Other parks have these too.

Do YOU use them often?

No, I only do some
walking from time to time.

That’s why I look like this.

That’s a castle. Private property.

A castle...

How old is it?

It’s from Moorish times.

These are common in Andalusia.

I see.

Oh, you left the car doors open.

No worry. I know
everyone around here.

I’m now taking the car
to my parking space.

I won't hold you up then.

Thanks for your time.

Wow! Exercise machines and tons of stairs...

Makes for a healthy lifestyle it seems.

I wonder if I can get through here?

Ah, a cat!

Oh, looks like I scared it.

Sorry about that!

Oh, and now I'm back on the street I was on before.

It's now 1:00 PM.

There are more cars and people now.

Oh yes.

My guidebook says that on top of the hill across from a parking lot is a state-run hotel, with a spectacular view from its terrace.

Is it this way?

I'm going to check.

And here's the parking lot!

So, this must be the hotel.

Hello.

Hello.

Is it okay if I check out the terrace view?

Go ahead.

Thank you.

Oh, that way?

Wow.

This terraces is incredible!

Oh, there's a family of three.

Hola.

Hello there.

How great to have a family lunch here!

Look. Say hello.

Excuse me.

Ahhh, this is indeed an amazing view.

A town on top of a hill... The view is unbelievable!!

Hola! I'm Luisa Cuadro, a tour guide.

Today we'll visit Arcos de la Frontera, the famous gateway to the Route of the White Villages.

The name of the town "Arcos" comes from the Roman period.

It means "high fortress" in Latin.

And "frontera" means frontier.

For several centuries, Arcos was the border where Christians and Islamic Moors fought each other for control.

The Moors had control over Arcos from the 8th to the 13th century, and during that time they built fortresses and narrow winding streets for defense.

At present, the Minor Basilica of Santa Maria is the symbol of the town.

Originally it was built as an Islamic mosque, but it now looks like this inside.

The altar walls are adorned with figures of saints and angels.

Here in front of the basilica we can find a remnant of its Islamic origin.

It's this circular symbol on the ground.

This circle is known to be where Moors meditated and fended off evil spirits, and it's considered to have spiritual power even today.

What? Why the town is all white?

I'll explain that to you now.

In Arcos, we have more than 300 days of sunshine per year.

Summer temperatures can go as high as 42 degrees Celsius.

The white walls deflect the sunlight, which keeps the room comfortable inside.

This is said to have been initiated during the time of the Moors.

And these white walls turned out to become the saviors of Arcos.

During the 1960s, Andalusian beach resorts attracted worldwide attention and flourished as resort destinations.

However...Arcos is HERE.

Inland towns were left out from tourism.

So the administration at the time devised the Route of the White Villages connecting small inland white-walled towns, and promoted it heavily.

The route included familiar towns like Ronda.

And Arcos gained fame as the gateway to the Route of the White Villages.

In my opinion Arcos de la Frontera is the most beautiful among all the white towns.

We'll be waiting for your visit.

Adios!

Oh, hello there.

It's now 2:30 PM.

And appears to be lunchtime in Arcos.

Just want to check my map.

I climbed up that long stairway, saw a Holy Week monument, toured a church, enjoyed the spectacular view from a hotel terrace.

Now, I am here, in the center of the old town.

Oh, she's taking a photograph.

I wonder what she's photographing.

Ohhh, that does look inviting!

I think I check it out!

Ah, there's an open door.

And there's another door inside.

Hmm, is this a residential area?

I wonder what it's like to live here.

There's someone up there.

Good afternoon.

Hello.

Do you live here?

Yes, come on in.

Nice of you to invite me.

Thank you.

You’re welcome.

Wow, just look at all these flowerpots!

Yes, there are a lot!

Is that a patio behind you?

Yes, see our patio.

Thank you.

Wow, it's like a maze here.

Good afternoon!

Hello.

Is this your home?

Yes.

I just wanted to see the patio.

Sure. Please.

Thank you.

I'm curious to see what's at the top of these stairs.

That's a lot of laundry!

Interesting, while walking down the street, I didn't see any laundry hanging.

I guess they hang it in the patios.

We hang laundry here.

The laundry is my neighbor’s.

Is this a housing complex?

This used to be a convent.

Nuns lived here.

Ah, it used to be a convent.

It was divided and sold for residence.

Hola.

Hmm?

Oh, hello.

Do you live upstairs?

Three families live here.

Another one lives up there.

We’re neighbors but
we’re like one family.

And like family, they share the same patio.

I want to use a lemon for dessert.

This one is perfect.

-　I’m taking this.
-　Go ahead.

There are a lot of lemons on that tree!

They’re shared among the neighbors.

What a great way to live!

Thank you for letting me see your patio.

Adios.

Bye.

Come again.

Yes, thank you.

That was really interesting!

There is so much life going on behind these doors.

So, the town of Arcos with its white walls that go on forever, is a place where neighbors live behind the walls surrounding the courtyards and spend time together.

Hmm, I wonder why all those people are lined up in front of that door?

Thank you.

Did you just buy that bag?

Pretty, isn’t it?

What is it made of?

Palm leaf.

Oh, palm leaf.

Sounds tropical.

Hello.

Your goods seem to be quite popular!

Is your business doing well?

Well, not really.

It is very time consuming...

I can understand that.

Do you work alone?

Yes.

I live with my wife.

I see.

I met my wife when she was 12.

12 years old?

And I was 22. 10 years older.

Really?

I met her during a festival.

A spring festival.

I wonder why he's telling me this?

She looked so adorable.

With charming curly hair.

Uh-huh.

Ah, he loves his wife!

Here’s my wife now.

Hola.

Oh, hello ma'am.

So you met during a spring festival?

Yes.

Our wedding started here.

Formal suit and white dress.

- With a long train.
-　The veil.

Your wedding was in a church?

In San Pedro Church.

It’s over there.

San Pedro Church... That one?

That’s San Pedro Church.

We had our wedding there.

It looks like a magnificent church!

It’s beautiful.

It’s a precious and beautiful church.

And I bet your wife was beautiful, too.

Be careful! Don’t say "was"!

Excuse me!

She’s still beautiful!

You're absolutely right!

What a happy couple!

We’re very happy.

Here's to more future happiness.

Thank you.

Thanks for your time.

Thank you. Bye.
Nice talking to you.

Same here.

Take care.

Adios, adios, adios.

He's a very spirited guy.

I bet he tells that story to all his customers!

Hola.

I'm Cristina.

I'm studying business finance.

Today I will be introducing you to the three best dishes to be found in Arcos de la Frontera.

Let's go!

And now!

Time for something delicious!

Vamos.

This is choice number three!

Dried cod minute gratin.

Ingredients are the famed Spanish ham, and dried cod as the star.

Add the ham and cod to fried onions.

Pour on garlic mayonnaise and top it with cheese.

Then lightly bake it in an oven.

And that's it!

Doesn't it look delicious!?

Here I go.

Mmm.

Various flavors can be enjoyed all at once.

Next is this suave place.

My choice for second best is El abajao.

It's a traditional dish dating back to the time of the Moors.

The main ingredient is wild asparagus.

Garlic, onion, and bell pepper are fried, and then the asparagus goes in.

Then tomato sauce, fried potato and bread are added.

And lastly, it's topped with eggs and cooked until the eggs are softly poached.

For you.

Thank you.

I love this dish!

Mmm. Mmm.

It is so good!

The asparagus flavor is strong.

Even though it's mostly vegetables, it's quite satisfying!

And now for choice number one!

My number one is a Spanish delight, Iberico pork presa steak.

Presa is meat from a part of the shoulder, exquisitely marbled.

It's best simply grilled.

And then topped with prosciutto!

Fantastic!

Steak and Prosciutto !

Fabulous together!

Mmm. Mmm. Mmm.

Wonderfully delicious!

And so rich in flavor!

Please come to Arcos, and I'm sure you'll enjoy these dishes.

They are so tasty!

See you. Bye.

And now it's 4:30 in the afternoon.

Those two women are sprinting up the stairs!

That's the spirit!!

Let me check my map again.

I got to see that wonderful patio, then met the palm leaf craftsman and his wife near San Pedro Church

and now I'm right around here.

Those runners are already way up there!

Oh, here they are!

I wonder why they run here?

Hello.

How are you doing?

Hello.

You both were running quite fast!

Yes.

Are you training for something?

We want to join the military,
and then join the police.

Hmm. The police.

May I ask why?

My uncle is a civil guard.

I’ve adored him in
uniform since I was little.

He looked cool and strong.
He lived in an official residence.

I get it!

Do you always run in this area?

My grandmother lives near here.

There’s a cave at her home.

A cave?

Yes.

In town?

Yes.

Wow! Fascinating!

Would you like to see it?

May I?

Sure.

Thank you.

I apologize for interrupting your training!

It’s okay.

Here?

This place is smack in the middle of town!

Hello.

Hello.

Hola.

We brought a visitor.

Excuse me.

Mom.

We have a visitor.

Hello. How are you?

Hello.

I heard there's a cave here.

Yes, a cave.

Come this way.

Thank you.

It's really dark!

It seems to be in back of the building.

Watch your head.

That's a narrow tunnel ahead!

Crouch.

M-hm.

This is a part of the house?

I wonder where I am?

Oh look, there's an opening up there!

Whoa.

This is an amazing view!

Did someone dig this cave?

It’s been here since ancient times.

Moorish soldiers completed it.

They waved torches here to send
signals to neighboring towns.

Signals?

During wars.

Ah, signals to their allies.

They guarded the town.

This town was a fortress then.

Try looking down.

Huh? Down?

Whoa.

This is the edge of a cliff!

An impregnable fortress.

Unbelievable!

Thank you so much.

You’re welcome.

-　See you.
-　See you two later.

Thank you!

You’re welcome.

Bye.

See you again.

Wow, a house with a cliff side cave!

This town has quite a history!

And the white walls continue and continue!

Oooh! That looks heavy.

I’m carrying lemons.

Lemons, again!

I have lemon trees behind my house.

They're quite large!

Yep, they’re big ones!
I grow them with care.

Uh-huh.

Would you like to see?

Yes, I would!

Come.

Okay.

Thank you.

The footing is bad.

No problem.

I'm seeing green leaves ahead.

That’s an old fortress.

Oh, in the back?

My farm is at the foot of it.

Uh-huh.

This is it?

My nice lemon trees.

A grove of lemon trees.

These are lemon
trees in their essence.

Essence?

Cut the lemon,
and the juice spurts out.

It’s awesome.

Really?

I’ll show you!

Okay.

This one.

Wow, that's big.

The soil is the key.

Enrich them with nutritious soil
and the fruit will grow like this.

I see.

I give these lemons
out every Christmas.

Even to hilltop residents.

They make everyone happy.

Everyone becomes happy.

The juice is shared for drinking too.

Hmm, he disappeared!

Ah.

I brought a knife.

Look.

It looks so fresh.

Ohh, there's so much juice.

No need to waste it!

Look at all the juice just by hand.

With a squeezer it’s amazing.

The smell comes through the mask.

Amazing!

So, if you give good care,
they return in kind!

M-hm.

Would you like to come inside?

No, that's all right.

My son and grandchildren are here.

Ah.

Hola.

Hello.

His grandson.

Hello.

Thank you for everything!

Nice meeting you.

Bye.

I bet those children get to drink fresh lemon juice every day!

He cares so much for his lemons and his family.

That's really wonderful!

It's 6:30.

It'll soon will be dusk.

Is that an observation deck?

Wow, what a spectacular view.

The sun is going down.

And now it's dark.

Look at all the people strolling down the street.

It's 9 PM now.

I wonder what that crowd is all about?

Good evening.

Good evening.

Ooh, everyone here is a female.

Yes.

Is there some live performance here?

No, this is a meeting of
the church float parading team.

Oh, the float.

It’s our first practice.

You carry floats with holy figures, right?

Only women?

Usually it’s men, but in this church
two floats are carried by women.

I see.

Would it be all right if I watched your practice?

Yes, of course.

We’re just starting. Come in.

Thank you.

Oh, this is the church I visited this morning.

Huh, she's wearing a supporter around her waist.

She's like a weightlifting athlete.

Are the floats that heavy?

I don’t know how much it weighs,
but it’s heavy!

Oh.

That's the float?

A holy figure will be mounted on it during the real event.

So due to COVID-19 the parade was canceled?

Are you going to do it this year?

I’m very happy. Heavy, but happy.

M-hm. You've been waiting, huh.

For two years. I hope
we can have it this year.

M-hm.

Line up on this side too.

On the signal, pull it up.

All the way up.

Higher.

On the signal, bars on shoulders.

And up it goes!

Working together!

Hold the bars.

They look so serious!

Good luck.

Along the white-walled streets of Arcos de la Frontera, I met so many people pursuing their desires regardless of the challenges.

I have learned a lot today.

Good evening! Hola!