CHIBA

Explore a surprising take on ramen loved by a fishing town. Let it warm you up when it's cold!

Ramen chef carries on the taste of the first generation
Ramen has been loved by fishermen
Takeoka-shiki Ramen loved in the fishing town of Chiba
Takeoka's distinctive noodles

Transcript

00:01

Ramen Japan! This time in Chiba, known for its fabulous fish!

00:09

We'll look at two varieties, both from fishing towns.

00:12

Get 'em while they're hot!

00:23

Welcome to Japan, the land of ramen!

00:32

Surrounded by water with the Pacific Ocean to the east and Tokyo Bay to the west,

00:37

Chiba is a peninsula.

00:39

Our first bowl of ramen comes from Katsuura on the Pacific side.

00:46

Long home to a thriving fishing industry, this port town is home to some 20,000 people.

00:57

Early morning... A skipjack tuna fishing boat enters the harbor.

01:02

They use no nets, only fishing rods.

01:07

Katsuura is the number one fishing port for this type of fish in the Kanto region.

01:15

Naturally the eateries around the harbor are famous for their skipjack tuna sashimi.

01:21

But by far the most popular item on the menu is actually...

01:26

You guessed it! Ramen!

01:29

Outside many of the restaurants in the area you'll find flags advertising ramen.

01:34

Places offering grilled meat. Seafood places too.

01:42

At classic eateries like this.

01:48

And even...

01:51

This Italian dining bar with a view of the Pacific.

01:57

Alongside pizza and pasta, here too you'll find ramen on the menu.

02:04

It's made by Katsuura-born-and-raised Italian chef, Mizuno Tsukasa.

02:12

My first memory of it is from childhood.
I wondered why it was so spicy.

02:18

The ramen Katsuura loves best, "tantanmen" is very spicy indeed.

02:26

In Katsuura, ramen is "tantanmen."

02:43

So, how is Katsuura tantanmen made?

02:47

The standard version is a soy sauce base, blended with dashi soup stock.

02:59

So far, a classic shoyu ramen.

03:05

But the ingredients that come next completely change the flavor.

03:10

For Katsuura "tantanmen" we always add
onions, ground meat, and chili oil for heat.

03:19

Using vegetable oil and red chili powder, this shop makes their own chili oil from scratch.

03:32

Along with the ground meat and onions, plenty of spicy chili oil is added.

03:42

Cooked slow; the onion's sweetness,
the chili oil's heat and pork's umami.

03:49

Those three are key.

03:52

In the world of ramen it's an outlier.

03:57

You'll only find this taste in Katsuura.

04:09

- Good even if you don't do spicy food.
- Yeah, the onions add sweetness.

04:16

At the end of a shift we all go out for
Katsuura "tantanmen." Great with a drink.

04:29

The father of Katsuura tantanmen is this man, Ezawa Tsutomu.

04:36

The shop he ran is still in business today.

04:42

Come in!

04:44

The inheritor of the taste he created, his grandson, Masaki.

04:48

As well as his son, Fumihiko.

04:54

According to Dad, it came from a dish
he tried in Manchuria during the war.

04:59

The spice made a lasting impression.

05:05

The elder Ezawa opened his Katsuura eatery in 1950.

05:10

And around four years later, he recreated the Chinese tantanmen recipe he remembered.

05:19

In the beginning it was just spicy.

05:22

To make it a bit milder he added onions.
That's how our "tantanmen" was created.

05:32

It was the birth of Katsuura tantanmen.

05:42

Everyone on the fishing boats eats it
to warm up before going home.

05:49

Once Ezawa's tantanmen became popular with the fishermen, it quickly spread all over Katsuura.

05:58

These men all remember that original taste.

06:05

You have to fatten up or you get cold,
so you eat lots of fatty foods.

06:11

I always break a sweat eating here.

06:14

There's a strong soy sauce flavor,
but there's heat too.

06:17

Being sweet and spicy makes it great.

06:21

We heat it up right before serving,
so customers enjoy it piping hot.

06:30

Ezawa's son Fumihiko began working in the shop at just 17.

06:38

But in 1987, he had no choice but to close the shop...

06:48

Then, two years later, his father Tsutomu passed away.

06:52

That tantanmen taste had disappeared.

06:59

12 years passed...

07:04

Despite the gap, I had to try again.

07:09

The shop reopened.

07:15

The fishermen out on the boats,
they heard it over the radio.

07:21

As soon as word got out they all
came to eat right away.

07:30

Later, Tsutomu's grandson Masaki, also joined him.

07:35

And that original taste has now passed down for three generations.

07:41

Who would've guessed we'd be
around for 70 years.

07:45

But as long as the locals love us,
we'll be able to keep going forever.

07:51

Yeah, for sure.

07:53

No matter how old they get,
they'll always come in.

08:04

Hoping to spread the word about Katsuura tantanmen around the country,

08:08

the local shops came together to compete in a national competition for regional cuisine.

08:15

In 2015 they took top prize, becoming number-one in Japan.

08:31

To commemorate the victory, words of thanks are printed on the bottom of every bowl.

08:38

To this day, they keep the workers on the boats and all the local residents well-fed and ready for more.

08:50

With a view of Mt. Fuji, the city of Futtsu lies on the other side of the peninsula facing Tokyo Bay.

08:58

Lying within its borders, Takeoka is a small fishing port with around 1,200 residents.

09:05

A quick look in the city travel guide and...

09:08

you'll find two long-standing ramen shops, both originating right here in Takeoka.

09:16

And next up on the menu is Takeoka-style ramen, a unique taste found nowhere else.

09:29

At this shop, the classic taste of the old original is served up in the authentic way by chef Kawasaki Ryuicihi.

09:38

I've loved Takeoka-style ramen
since childhood.

09:45

It's truly unique.

09:47

Here, Takeoka style ramen is available only for takeout.

09:51

Let's see how it's made.

09:55

Most ramen shops use fresh-made noodles.

09:59

But for Takeoka style... the noodles they use are dried!

10:08

The soup is made with soy sauce that's been used to slow-simmer "chashu" pork.

10:14

And the only other addition is hot water.

10:18

No actual soup stock is used!

10:22

It seems just like instant ramen, right?
But eat it, and you're in for a surprise.

10:32

The dark soy sauce, "chashu" pork
and the presence of onion.

10:44

The pork is boiled in the soy sauce.

10:47

It's kept going for years and years
and the umami just builds up.

10:54

Thinned with hot water it's delicious.

11:07

The fishermen truly love Takeoka ramen.

11:14

I remember "chashu" cooking on
the charcoal stove early in the morning.

11:21

That delicious smell of simmering pork.

11:24

It made you instantly hungry.

11:27

This venerable, yet humble bowl of ramen was loved by the fishermen for a reason.

11:35

The flavor is pretty strong,
the soy sauce.

11:37

When you do hard physical work
that rich taste hits the spot.

11:42

And something the fishermen especially enjoy...

11:45

When the weather's bad we have
some "chashu" pork with a few drinks.

11:50

Then we have a bowl of ramen.

11:54

There's not much to do in a fishing town.

11:57

But we always look forward to it.

12:01

Chiba is also the home of dark soy sauce, an essential ingredient for Takeoka ramen.

12:10

This sumo-style ranking from the 19th century lists soy sauce brewers in the Kanto region.

12:19

And 60% of the breweries listed, were right here in Chiba.

12:25

This long-standing Futtsu-area brewer was founded in 1834.

12:32

The shop that invented Takeoka ramen
is said to have used our soy sauce.

12:39

It's the dark, rich variety common
in the Kanto region.

12:43

He shows us to the fermentation room.

12:49

Soy, wheat, salt and water fermented with koji mold are the raw ingredients.

12:55

When pressed and filtered, soy sauce is the result.

13:00

Our brewing process is all-natural,
fermenting in the vats for two years,

13:05

with no temperature control whatsoever.

13:09

It stays hot in the summer and
cold in the winter.

13:13

Microorganisms living on the wooden surfaces impart a distinctive flavor.

13:19

Our vats are all old veterans,
hard at work for over 100 years.

13:27

They create a truly unique taste.

13:31

This artisanal flavor, crafted with much time and effort, is the foundation for Takeoka ramen.

13:43

In 2022, a new Takeoka Style ramen shop opened its doors.

13:58

The owner-opening a shop for the first time at age 67-is Takahashi Reiko, a Takeoka native.

14:06

She uses the same soy sauce base as the long-standing shops.

14:13

It's the old taste made with love.

14:21

Make it simply, and make it nutritious,
That's how a mother thinks about it.

14:31

I've loved it since childhood.
It's a familiar taste.

14:38

Chiba ramen, fortifying the hearts and bodies of hardworking fishermen.

14:44

Now loved by visitors from all over Japan.

14:49

The perfect bowl of ramen, overflowing with gratitude for each and every customer.