The Ginza shopping district is lined with ritzy boutiques

and high-end department stores.

Its history goes back about 400 years,

when it developed as a town of merchants and artisans.

These used to be the original bricks

that were used in the brick district 150 years ago!

In the second half of the 19th century, it got a dramatic brickwork makeover,

which made it a beacon of modernity for the city.

The townscape was transformed by modern architecture,

and the area became a trendy hub of fashion and art.

I didn't know you could see the roof up close like this.

It's beautiful!

Ginza is also home to Tokyo's main venue for traditional kabuki theater,

as well as one of the city's first modern apartment buildings.

"Dive in Tokyo."

Today we unravel the history of Ginza through some of its most iconic buildings.

Hi, I'm Arisa Adams, and today we're here at the famous Ginza crossing.

Over here, we have a famous department store,

and over there, there's an array of designer shops.

But first, let's take a look at what kind of district Ginza is.

The Ginza shopping district is located in the heart of the city,

about one kilometer south of Tokyo Station.

The streets are roughly arranged in a grid, centered on Ginza Chuo-dori,

the area's main thoroughfare.

It's a major shopping street that attracts crowds

from around the country and the world.

Walking around Ginza can be really fun

because you can enjoy all the window displays.

Each shop has its very own design,

and it feels like you're somewhere really special.

On weekends, this street becomes a bustling pedestrian promenade.

Ginza's history goes back roughly 400 years to the Edo period.

It initially began as a town of merchants and artisans.

Chuo-dori's roots go back to those early days.

It was a part of the Tokaido,

a major road linking old Tokyo with Kyoto to the southwest.

As we stroll along, Arisa spots something along the sidewalk.

Hey, look at this monument.

It looks like it's talking about the origins of this place.

According to this, it says that there used to be a foundry here.

In 1612, the shogunate moved one of its silver coin mints to this area.

It was that facility that would give the district its name.

Ginza literally means "silver mint."

Hello.

Ogikubo Kei is a researcher specializing in old roads.

He'll tell us more about the local history.

Are there any buildings left from the Edo period?

No buildings remain from that period.

But local merchants have long been praying for success in business.

So there are time-hallowed shrines dedicated to the deity of prosperity.

They're tucked away along alleyways.

Ogikubo offers to give us a little tour.

Right now, we're on a backstreet next to the busiest part of Ginza.

This road also goes back to the Edo period.

Let me show you something interesting.

Great!

It's on the left.

Right here.

How cute! A chimpanzee!

It's signaling us to go further left.

The chimp directs passersby to a nearby shrine.

Ginza is home to many small shrines.

They're placed along backstreets and at the end of alleyways

to provide convenient access for locals.

What a cute little shrine.

It even has a proper red "torii" gate.

This is Hodo Inari Shrine, founded in the Edo period.

It's said that the shrine was founded as an offshoot of a shrine

that was located on the grounds of Edo Castle.

Ginza, as you know, is a major commercial district.

So the patron deity of business is very important.

As buildings went up around here,

these sacred spots were created so people could pray.

Ogikubo takes us to another long-standing shrine.

It's just up ahead.

Another cute little shrine!

Yes, this is Kumagai Inari Shrine.

According to legend, it was founded roughly 800 years ago.

It's very old.

The history of this spot reveals something interesting about Ginza's geography.

It turns out...

a waterway ran through here back in the Edo period.

It was a wide waterway called Sanjukkenbori-gawa.

"Sanjukken" refers to the width.

This map shows what this area was like back in the mid-19th century.

This is Ginza right here.

Between the 17th and mid-20th centuries,

Ginza was surrounded on all sides by artificial waterways.

When you overlay this old map onto the area today,

we see that while they have been filled in,

the overall layout of streets and blocks has remained largely unchanged.

This shrine used to be along the water.

But it was relocated several times as the area underwent development,

and eventually moved to this spot.

Today Ginza is all reinforced concrete.

It may seem like there are no traces of its past.

But as we've just seen on our walk,

the waterways were turned into streets, and the layout has remained the same.

Look carefully and you will see its history.

Next, we head to a famous theater

located just a few minutes from Ginza Chuo-dori.

This is one place I've always wanted to visit in Ginza!

This is the Kabukiza Theater.

Isn't the traditional architecture so beautiful?

This is the principal theater in Tokyo for kabuki performances.

The building was most recently renovated in 2013.

Kabuki is a performance art that developed during the Edo period.

Its repertoire includes classic plays centered on historical figures,

as well as original productions.

Hello. You must be Nomura-san.

Architect Nomura Kazunori helped design the current Kabukiza Theater.

He'll give us a tour of some highlights.

Here is the roof.

Wow! Feels great up here!

Atop the traditional building is a tranquil garden.

Look behind you.

You can gaze up at the tower.

It's huge!

When the theater underwent renovations,

it was reborn as a multi-use complex that combines traditional design,

modern functionality, and an office tower.

This staircase offers a unique view.

Wow!

Pretty cool, right?

I didn't know you could see the roof up close like this.

It's beautiful!

For the new theater, the old roof was completely reconstructed

using newly fired tiles.

Traditional tiling has been a key part of the theater's look for many years.

This vantage point was created as an homage

to a kabuki play about the legendary thief, Ishikawa Goemon.

There's a scene where he stands on the roof and says,

"What a magnificent view!"

And there's also a bright red railing.

So that's why we made this staircase.

I see.

And it was named Goemon Staircase.

Next, we head down to the gallery,

where you can learn more about the venue's history.

I see some architectural models.

These are the past iterations of Kabukiza Theater.

I see.

This was the original theater, completed in 1889.

It looks like it was made of brick or stone.

- Western-style.
- Very much so.

At the time, Japanese society was trying to incorporate Western culture.

That influence really shaped Ginza's townscape as a whole.

Kabukiza Theater was likewise modeled after Western buildings.

In 1872, Japan's first railway opened just south of this area.

With Ginza positioned to act as a gateway to the city,

the government had many buildings rebuilt in brick,

which was fire-resistant.

It was a way to signal to the West that Japan was a modern state.

But of course, kabuki is a traditional Japanese art form.

People thought the building design should reflect that.

So it was reconstructed.

- Quite the shift!
- Indeed.

Very Japanese.

The second-generation building was completed in 1911.

Since then, the theater has been rebuilt and renovated several more times.

But with its classic architecture and rich history,

it's remained one of Ginza's most beloved cultural landmarks.

Next, we make our way to what is perhaps Ginza's most iconic building.

It stands on the corner of an intersection in the heart of the district.

- Here it is.
- Yes!

The symbol of Ginza.

Definitely.

When I think of Ginza, I think of this building.

It was built in neo-Renaissance style.

It's quite elegant.

It has a classical feel.

The commercial building was constructed by a company that was an importer,

retailer and manufacturer of timepieces.

It was completed in 1932, becoming a symbol of recovery

in the wake of the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923.

Back then, the use of watches had yet to become widespread

among the Japanese public,

so the company built a clock tower for the people of Ginza.

Today it is an upscale store selling luxury watches and jewelry.

Hello.

Welcome to our store.

Thank you for your time.

Wow, what a beautiful window!

It reminds me of an old European church.

Yes, this is an arched window.

This building dates back to 1932.

Many of the windows and stairs have remained unchanged.

I see.

Classical, with a hint of modern. It really speaks to the times.

In the 1920s and '30s,

Ginza actively embraced many modern cultural influences.

New cafes, department stores, and other businesses opened their doors,

catering to sophisticated young men and women,

many of whom were dressed in the latest fashions.

It also became known for its nightlife.

It's said that some of the first neon signs in Japan

were turned on along these streets.

Next, we're shown to a room that's reserved for special guests.

How lovely!

Wonderful space!

The dimensions of this room are also unchanged.

Originally the company president used this as his office.

When I first walked in, I was reminded of the Palace of Versailles.

This is such a splendid room.

We've kept a lot of the detailing as is to retain the original atmosphere.

Today it's used as a reception room for important clients.

I love how features of the exterior are incorporated into the interior.

Japan was exposed to Western design starting the latter 19th century.

This is proof that they mastered it.

The room speaks to Ginza's prosperity during that era.

Between the latter 19th century and the early 20th century,

Ginza was a beacon for Japan.

You can really feel that when you visit Kabukiza Theater and this building.

On Nomura's recommendation, we head to another historic building in the area.

This must be it!

This building definitely looks different than the ones around it.

So it turns out that inside of here there are many little galleries.

I myself am an artist as well, so I'm excited to see what this is all about.

Built in 1932, it was originally conceived of as a luxury apartment complex.

Oh, very nice.

So, this inside, it has a sort of like vintage feel to it.

I really like the tiles.

They have a really interesting texture, sort of blue and brown.

Very cool.

Wow, take a look at this elevator!

It kind of looks like those manual elevators you see in the movies.

That gold detailing, wow! That is so cool!

This is said to be the first elevator

to be installed in a multi-unit residential building in Japan.

Ah, I see!

So this is a completely manual elevator. I didn't even notice this.

All right, let's open this handle,

and this yellow part and...

Let's go inside.

See you upstairs!

The original atmosphere has largely been preserved,

thanks to the determined efforts of the tenants.

Take a look at all this wiring!

It's definitely in-your-face. I like it.

I think it adds on to the uniqueness of this building for sure.

And it's kind of low, isn't it?

Or maybe I'm just tall, but I do feel like the ceilings are a bit low.

The building is now occupied by offices, art galleries, antique sellers, and more.

Apparently, the size of rooms made them ideal spaces for art.

This room has a wooden floor.

Back when this building first opened, this was considered really chic.

Ask any tenant, and they'll tell you they feel a special attachment to this place.

They take pride in making the most of the unique atmosphere.

Nowhere is that more evident than in Room 306.

This must be the room. Let's take a look inside.

- Hello.
- Hi!

- Thank you for your time. I'm Arisa.
- I'm Kurota.

This is the only room in the building that's never been renovated.

It was originally a beauty salon.

Kurota was one of several volunteers

who stepped up to save this room from being renovated.

They're renting it solely for the purpose of preserving it as is.

The photo's a little tattered...

This woman was the salon owner.

I see.

And notice the mirrors. They're still there in the same place.

Not only did they preserve these mirrors,

they consulted old photos and documents in order to recreate

some of the salon's furniture, and even its sign, all by hand.

The room also features a certain modern amenity.

This is the side that faces the street.

Outside all the windows on this side is a built-in planter.

Residents grew their own plants.

Narrow window boxes were built into the façade

so each resident could have their own flower bed.

This modern feature added to the building's classy feel.

Is the plan to preserve Room 306 moving forward?

Yes, that's our intention.

It's easy to tear something down. We want to preserve this as is.

This was a beauty salon that served all kinds of customers.

So our hope is to make this room a gathering place.

From time to time, Kurota and his partners open the space

to the public with special events.

During World War II, Ginza was severely damaged

during the air raids of 1945.

After the war ended, large buildings that had survived

were requisitioned by the allied forces.

The landmark clock tower was turned into a shopping center

for military service members.

The rest of Ginza was quickly rebuilt into an upscale commercial area.

As reconstruction progressed, the town became home to many art galleries.

Ginza developed a reputation as a destination for art collectors.

To learn more, we head to a long-standing gallery

located on the 7th floor of this office building.

Founded in 1950,

it was one of the first spaces in Japan to specialize in contemporary art.

Hello, I'm Arisa.

I'm Yamamoto. Nice to meet you.

Yamamoto is the second-generation owner,

and he's well-versed in the history of the local art scene.

Do you have any photos from the gallery's early days?

This here is a photo of Ginza taken from the neighboring district.

Before the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, there were waterways all around.

So you had to cross a bridge to come to Ginza.

Here is what the gallery looked like in its early days.

At the time, Ginza was bordered by water,

which lent the townscape a unique character.

During the Japanese economic miracle in the 1960s,

the waterways were filled in and replaced by expressways.

As urban development continued,

Ginza saw an influx of upscale shops and restaurants,

which in turn led to more art galleries catering to well-to-do tastes.

When was the peak of the gallery scene?

Probably in the late '80s, right before the economic bubble burst.

They say there were about 250 galleries.

- So many!
- Yes.

Today the number has decreased.

But there are still somewhere around 150 of them.

Since 2004, Yamamoto and his fellow gallerists

have been organizing neighborhood-wide events.

They've even partnered with local restaurants

in order to expose more people to Ginza's art scene.

Ginza is seen as being very ritzy, so people sometimes shy away.

These kinds of events make the area more inviting.

Exactly. It makes Ginza more accessible.

Spaces like these continue to be at the heart of the local cultural scene.

Lastly, we check out a monument dedicated to Ginza's history.

Oh, this must be the place.

Wow, look at these bricks.

So, apparently, these used to be the original bricks

that were used in the brick district 150 years ago!

I can't believe it's still here and I'm able to touch it.

This is a part of history that's left over. Isn't that insane?

The bricks that are used in this monument came from the wall of a building

that once stood nearby.

They're a reminder of a time when bricks were a key element

of Ginza's townscape.

To learn more, we pay a visit to the long-standing women's clothing store

right next door.

Hello! I'm Arisa.

I'm Katsumata. Pleased to meet you.

There was an old hat store nearby.

When it was being torn down,

my father had this inkling that they might discover brick.

You can see in the photos back there...

that they did indeed find brick.

The demolition crew ended up finding 150-year-old brick inside the walls.

Katsumata's father was eager to preserve them in some way.

Normally, it would've quickly been torn down and discarded.

But my father asked them to wait.

He was a man who was passionate about culture.

So he started trying to get a monument made

using some of the bricks.

Katsumata's late father, Yasuo,

was adamant that the monument be put up in this neighborhood.

These bricks were a piece of Ginza,

fired at 800 degrees in the late 19th century.

I want people to feel their texture.

The point is to display them here, in a form you can touch.

A kind of open-air museum.

Katsumata's father even managed to save more of the brick wall,

a piece of which is still proudly on display inside the store.

- So it lives on here.
- Yes.

Today we got to hear the various histories

and many charm points of Ginza by Ginza-lovers themselves.

I was so struck to see how much history that's been left over,

even with all the change that's been going on.

Hearing about all the history and the personal stories

has made me appreciate this district even more.

In fact, I think I'm going to go check out a few more stores.

See you around!