Taking the Kimono Industry into the Future

This episode features kimono-related businesses that are trying to recover from years of declining sales by finding new uses for the kimono materials.

[In Focus: Japan Inc. Shareholders Push for Gender Equality]
Company executives in Japan can expect some noise at the shareholders meeting this month as more investors demand change. We look at why a lack of diversity in top-level positions is likely to be a big topic.

[Global Trends: Extending the Life of Everyday Items]
Extending the lifespan of everyday items can make a big difference in achieving sustainability. We look at efforts by makers of socks and towels to offer products that will go the distance.

*Subtitles and transcripts are available for video segments when viewed on our website.

Taking the Kimono Industry into the Future

In order to appeal to a younger, fashion-forward audience, a kimono fabric maker is now creating high-end fashion pieces
The same process used for weaving traditional decorative chords is now being used to produce high-quality shoe laces that prevent them from easily coming undone

Global Trends

Design tweaks and durable material are combined to make socks that will last a long time
In a pilot project, scraps left over from the towel-weaving process are used to make new products

Transcript

02:58

There was an unexpected moment at Canon's shareholder meeting held in March.

03:03

The camera and medical equipment maker proposed its longtime chief...

03:07

87-year-old Mitarai Fujio... be reappointed to the board.

03:11

To the surprise of many, a large number of stockholders voted "no."

03:16

Mitarai squeezed through with just a little over 50 percent but it was a clear message of protest.

03:22

Some major institutional investors said they opposed the makeup of the company's board, which has no women.

03:30

Diversity is still lacking among Japan's corporations.

03:33

Research shows more than one fifth of nearly 2,000 companies listed on the Prime Market of the Tokyo Stock Exchange

03:40

did not have a single female on their board as of July last year.

03:45

That's drawing increased scrutiny from investors.

03:50

Japan lags behind Western countries when it comes to promoting women to director's positions.

03:57

There are also some countries in Asia that are ahead in numbers.

04:07

Some businesses are rushing to respond.

04:09

This casual clothing retailer plans to propose the first female director in its over 40-year history at its shareholders meeting this month.

04:19

"Hello, everyone!"

04:21

Hamaya Risa is a Youtuber who posts videos about camping.

04:25

She recently became involved in the firm's product development... now it wants her on the board.

04:33

"I was asked to give my opinion as a consumer, homemaker and a camper."

04:40

One reason the company chose Hamaya is that it's expanding its line of items targeting female customers.

04:49

She is a woman, and she knows how to sell products using social networking which is a new marketing tool.

04:55

She is an expert on that.

04:58

So we have lots to learn from her.

05:01

An expert says having more diversity is not just about gender equality, it can also help business.

05:07

In many older industries with fewer female workers typically have problems like insufficient workforce and low working productivity and low stock valuation.

05:19

I think it's time for companies to restructure.

05:26

With the rapid influx of foreign capital into the stock market, calls will likely grow for Japanese businesses to rethink their male-dominated corporate culture.

07:45

This is "Glen Clyde," a sock manufacturer in Tokyo.

07:50

Its high-end hosiery goes for about 19 dollars.

07:54

The company says it has already sold 90,000 pairs.

07:58

They are marketed as socks built to last.

08:01

The fabric is made from strong thread that normally goes into tents.

08:07

It's said to be 6 to 10 times stronger than standard nylon.

08:14

"They're durable, so they'll last longer.

08:17

It will reduce the number of socks that are thrown away."

08:22

The company also sells socks with toes.

08:29

They have no heel and are shaped like a glove, so both sides can be used.

08:36

The idea is to alternate the foot you wear the sock on.

08:40

Flip it over and the section that was under your heel - which tends to wear the most - fits over the top of your ankle.

08:48

Some of the socks feature a silk inner lining for added comfort.

08:52

They cost around 28 dollars, but have seen strong demand.

08:58

The company has plans to expand into the US and European markets this fall.

09:04

It sees the popularity of eco-friendly products there as a plus.

09:11

"If you wear durable socks like these, the result is less garbage in the end.

09:16

If we can get this message across globally, this business model can really catch on."

09:24

The next stop is Ehime Prefecture... where the city of Imabari is the center of Japan's towel manufacturing industry.

09:33

New efforts are underway there to keep used towels from going into landfills or incinerators.

09:40

A drop box to collect them was set up at this retail outlet in April.

09:45

The towels are sent to a manufacturer that turns them into thread.

09:52

This recycling technology is also being applied to address a longstanding problem in the towel industry - scrap material produced by the weaving process.

10:04

It's estimated that Imabari's factories discard several hundred tons of it each year.

10:10

In a pilot project, the scrap is being turned into thread for new towels.

10:17

The finished product is a different shade each time as a result of recycling towels of various colors.

10:28

"By collecting and reusing the towels, it turns into a sustainable initiative that consumers can take part in.

10:34

We are going to promote our Imabari towels as a quality product made in an environmentally friendly way."

10:47

Getting consumers to look beyond price is a big challenge to sustainability.

10:52

Manufacturers that offer products with longer lifespans at a reasonable cost are taking a step in the right direction.

12:19

A company that produces hand-woven kimono fabric, has set its sights on a new target - high fashion.

12:29

And a decorative braided cord usually used with kimono has been turned into a shoelace that is becoming popular with athletes.

12:37

Today's On-Site Report shows how traditional manufacturers are reaching beyond the kimono industry to find new customers.

14:36

Nestled in the mountains of Central Japan, this small village is home to just under 700 people.

14:43

The craftspeople in this workshop are producing a silk fabric called "Ushikubi Tsumugi" that dates back nearly 800 years.

14:50

From silk reeling to dying and weaving the threads, the entire process is done in-house by 20 skilled workers.

14:58

Still made entirely by hand, one of Ushikubi Tsumugi's stand out features are small clumps of entangled silk fibers that add to the fabric's texture.

15:07

A single roll (enough to make one kimono) starts at just over $2,000.

15:12

Nearly century ago, there were 9 workshops here, which together sold about 20,000 rolls a year.

15:18

Now, however, there are just two workshops that together sell only about 2,000 rolls per year.

15:24

"For those who aren't interested in traditional fabrics, just mentioning the word kimono is usually enough to turn them off."

15:34

To find new sales channels, Nishiyama Hiroyuki has been taking his products to overseas fabric exhibitions since 2009.

15:44

However, the standard sizing of kimono fabric proved to be a major barrier for working with most clothing manufacturers.

15:51

At just 38 cm across, it's about one-third the width of typical fabrics used by most clothing makers.

15:59

Nishiyama's luck turned for the better in 2016, when he met Teranishi Shunsuke, who was working as a designer for French luxury design house, Hermes.

16:09

I was immediately struck by the rich colors and unique texture of his fabric.

16:14

The thought of being able to use it in modern designs got me really excited!

16:20

First, however, Teranishi asked for a plaid pattern as he felt the fabric's traditional vertical stripes wouldn't go well with his designs.

16:31

Nishiyama's son, Mikito, accepted the request, but knew he had his work cut out for him.

16:40

"We had never done a plaid pattern before, so we had no idea where to start from."

16:48

After seven months of trial and error, including changes in everything from the dyeing process to weaving methods,

16:54

they finally succeeded in creating a plaid fabric.

17:00

The next challenge was for Teranishi -

17:02

he felt that the only way to make western clothes with such a narrow fabric was to incorporate far more seams than usual.

17:10

To make the process smoother, he came up with a special pattern that would allow him to work with long narrow strips of fabric on both the front and back of the design at the same time.

17:29

Here is are 2 of his first creations.

17:32

The bright look of the plaid is achieved by combining 6 different hand-dyed shades of blue.

17:37

The unique texture of the fabric also shows through.

17:43

Teranishi is selling his designs in a Tokyo boutique that sits among some of city's trendiest high-end apparel stores.

17:50

On this day, 2 young men were visiting the shop - trying on a long jacket made of "Ushikubi Tsumugi" that the shop was selling for about $6,000.

18:00

It's so light!

18:03

Shorts and a long jacket like this usually don't go well together, but with this, it totally works!

18:08

In the 3 years since Teranishi first began offering western style clothes made from "Ushikubi Tsumugi" fabric, he's sold 60 of his designs.

18:17

I realized it's okay try new things and have the courage to take that first step.

18:22

In order to be discovered by a broad range of consumers, we need to continue to trying out all sorts of different ways to use our fabrics.

21:00

This is a professional women's soccer team.

21:04

During a soccer match, no one will wait for you if your shoe laces come untied.

21:13

2 years ago, midfielder Nishibayashi Rie switched to a new type of shoelace, and since then she's hardly had to worry about them coming undone.

21:23

"Worrying about your laces can impact your play - so I really like these new laces."

21:29

While the laces are new, they are actually made using a traditional Japanese cord-making method.

21:36

Kumihimo is made by braiding together several strands of silk thread of different thicknesses - resulting in a strong chord with un-even surface.

21:46

When tied together, this creates friction between the laces, which gives them extra grip and makes it much harder for them to come undone.

21:54

From its inception, the combination of beauty and practically offered by kumihimo,

21:58

made it a key component used in samurai armor and it's still commonly used to this day to secure the obi,

22:05

a decorative belt worn over a kimono.

22:08

The shoelaces were created by a company that has been making kumihimo for over 70 years.

22:13

During the pandemic, a majority of the formal events kimono are usually worn for were cancelled across Japan.

22:20

This caused the company to see a steady decline in sales that dropped to as low as 30% below average.

22:26

To secure a new, more reliable source of revenue, company CEO Matsuda Tomoyuki decided to try making shoe laces.

22:36

"I thought - if we could use kumihimo to make shoe laces,

22:39

we could have a product that is used by both men and women, as well as by people of all ages."

22:47

To make as durable of a product as possible, the development team first tried creating a prototype made with polyester instead of silk.

22:53

However, they quickly ran into a major issue.

22:58

The standard braiding method resulted in laces that didn't have enough stretch.

23:01

When athletes used them for extended periods of time, would find the laces (to be) too stiff and unforgiving.

23:08

"Just when we thought we had everything right - we were told they didn't have enough stretch to them.

23:13

Making shoe laces turned out to be way harder than we imagined!"

23:17

Saeki Atsuko's team decided to change the braiding process and went as far as to make alterations to the machinery itself.

23:27

They also increased the number of threads used to 140.

23:31

This is double the amount used in standard shoe laces and helped add even more area to the laces' uneven surfaces.

23:39

After a year and half of testing and development, the team finally achieved a product they were happy with in February of 2021.

23:51

When compared with standard laces... the difference in grip is unmistakable.

24:00

The kumihimo laces are sold for between $15 to $30 and have steadily grown in popularity, now making up 5% of the company's total sales.

24:14

The laces have also started to catch on with blind soccer players, who must always focus on the sound of the ball.

24:23

Watanabe Akifumi has also become a fan of the laces.

24:28

He says that when shoelaces come untied, it can be a major distraction

24:32

making it difficult to keep track of the ball or where other players on the field.

24:41

"Because they give me some added confidence, I feel I can play a little faster and get step ahead of my competition."