Fukui - The Strength to Succeed

The best way to discover little-known sights

and make even familiar places feel brand new, is to go exploring by bicycle.

Summer is here, and this time we're going to Fukui.

Oh, what a beautiful view.

This is a coastal region, famous for its seafood.

Beautiful!

Flying fish, gurnard and yellowtail.
All from this morning's catch.

In earlier times, Fukui supplied food and manufactured goods

to the nearby capital of Kyoto, and many craft traditions live on today.

I polish it until it really gleams.

I make my knives to look like jewelry.

Today's artisans continue to evolve the old crafts.

We make paper the traditional way,
but we'll also add anything customers want.

Hello! I'm Michael.

We'll ride with a group of young cyclists, driven by a passion to succeed.

How long do you normally ride?

When I was training for the Olympics,
I rode 20,000 km a year.

Come with us now on a 270-kilometer ride through Fukui.

I can see the mountains and everything reflected in the lake.

We'll start our ride from Nagahama in Shiga, Fukui's neighboring prefecture.

This time, I'm using a little different bike.

I'm using one that I started cycling for the environment

and this magnesium frame is very good for the environment.

So it's made from recyclable, recycled magnesium and it's still pretty light.

Our cyclist, Michael Rice, has lived in Japan for 30 years.

Michael's an all-round athlete, who's competed in several international triathlons.

I've got memories of Fukui from the very first bicycle tour I did of all of Japan 30 years ago.

I remember how beautiful the coastline is here.

So I'm really looking forward to this trip.

This time I want to go in and meet more of the people

and see more of what the culture is like in Fukui prefecture.

Okay.

Ready to go.

All right.

This will be a four-day trip.

On day one, Michael will cross into Fukui, heading for the Sea of Japan.

Day two will take him around the five lakes of Mikatagoko.

On day three, he'll ride north to explore a town famous for traditional craftsmanship.

And his final day will bring him to Oshima, island of the sea gods.

Oh, I can see the lake.

It's so big. It looks like an ocean.

But it's the lake. It's Biwa lake.

The biggest lake in Japan.

It feels nice and open here.

Oh, the flowers are here.

Hi flowers.

Nice to see you this morning, flowers.

These fields of barley are almost ready for the harvest.

Cool.

Open space, wonderful.

Michael's still in Shiga, but he's now getting closer to the Fukui border.

These old farmhouses are beautiful.

Our cyclist has spotted a small temple in the woods beyond the village.

Those are very fine statues.

- Are you the caretaker?
- Yes.

Fujita Michiaki is one of the locals who takes care of the temple.

- These really are impressive.
- They're very old and battered though.

- How ancient are they?
- They all date back over 1,000 years.

1,000-year old wooden statues! Wow.

Look at this face.

Can you believe that this is a face that was carved more than a thousand years ago in wood,

and it's still beautiful.

I can really feel the gods in this place.

A large and magnificent temple once stood on this spot.

In the age of the samurai, war swept the region and the temple was burned to the ground.

The villagers buried their statues of Kannon to hide them from looters.

Centuries later, long after the wars had ended,

they dug up the statues and enshrined them in this small temple.

This area has suffered few natural disasters.

We believe that Kannon has kept us safe.

Statues of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, are believed to protect those who pray to her from illness and calamity.

Local residents take turns to care for their temple and look after its beautiful statues.

Our ancestors protected them
for so many generations.

I think it's important to continue this tradition.
I pray that future generations will do so too.

- Thank you so much for showing me these precious objects.
- Thank you for visiting us.

I hope I can come again.

Michael's road to Fukui takes him along an old highway that connected the region to Kyoto.

The ancient Japanese roads.

This is the top.

People have been going over this by foot for so many hundreds of years.

To bring the "saba" fish to the people in the Kyoto area.

The name of this road - Saba-kaido - means "mackerel road."

Fukui has always been famous for its fisheries,

and this was a major trade route supplying the old capital.

Over the pass, and Michael is now in Fukui.

Hello!

Rice fields.

The most important thing about a rice field is it has to be perfectly flat so that the water will stand.

So if you want to do some flat cycling, and sick of the hills,

go find some rice paddies and cycle through the rice paddies in Japan.

Oh, I see water up ahead.

This must be the Sea of Japan, "Nihon kai."

This area was where the Saba-kaido Road started from.

Michael loves fish, and he's in for a real treat here.

Ocean views.

Look at that.

Oh, there's a fishing wharf right down there.

That's where I want to stay.

Where I can get the best fish.

Oh, here's the wharf.

Wow, it's so clear.

I can see the fish. There are fish right here.

Just ten families live in this tiny fishing village.

1,300 years ago, fish caught here were transported over the mountains to the old capital.

I made it. This is where I'm going to stay.

"Uratani."

This is your room here.

- Great!
- It looks out on the sea.

Fantastic view.

This guesthouse has been run by a fishing family for 59 years.

Uratani Kikuo, born and bred in the village, started it to help visitors better enjoy the local seafood.

The sea here produces the tastiest fish.

Fish caught on this side of Japan have a firmer
texture than those from the Pacific.

It's really true.

Michael's looking forward to a unique experience in the morning.

It's still dark when Michael makes his way down to the nearby harbor to meet Uratani's son, Toshiharu.

- Sorry we had to get you up so early.
- I'll do anything for good fish.

Uratani's guests are welcome to go out on the family fishing boat.

The technique they use here is called fixed-net fishing, a method new to Michael.

This is hard work.

Wow, this is a massive net.

It goes all the way around there.

The net, set across the paths fish take, traps a wide variety of species.

They're still coming.

Now, now!

Get the net under it!

Michael's first catch is a squid.

Never held a live squid before.

It's big. It is beautiful too.

The color and the shape and everything.

Flying fish can only be caught at this time of year.

This is beautiful.

Red gurnard live on the sea bed.

One thing that amazed me was the variety of fish.

And then I tried to do it and yeah, it was really hard work.

This net is designed to catch the larger fish.

Today, it contains about 300 yellowtails.

The fishermen are well satisfied with the day's catch.

Toshiharu was still a teenager when he took over from his father as captain.

His 20-year old son, Ryusei, started fishing with him just one month ago.

I can tell when it's going to rain
from the way the wind feels.

To become a skilled fisher,
you have to develop all your five senses.

Like my son now, I worked with my father,
and became determined to surpass his skills.

He'll gradually take over from me.

"So you want to outdo your father?"

That's my goal.
I can do it.

Ryusei will eventually succeed his father as captain.

For breakfast, Michael will be served the fish they just caught.

Beautiful!

Flying fish, gurnard and yellowtail.
All from this morning's catch.

This is the squid you caught.

Enjoy.

He starts with some of the yellowtail.

- Nice and crunchy, eh?
- I like that.

And the taste is amazing.

And now for the squid that Michael caught himself.

Wow.

This is pretty extravagant.

Oh yes, this is good squid.

The key to sustainability is to not overfish.

Data shows that fixed nets like ours only
trap 30% of the fish who enter them.

If we fish sustainably, we'll be able to
pass the business on to our sons.

Starting the day like this will put
some real power in my legs.

Today, Michael will ride along the coast to Tsuruga.

Another big climb.

Takes me down to sea level, a village, wharf and back up the side of the cliffs again.

Then back down to sea level again.

And then back up again.

It's wonderful.

Oh, a beautiful view.

Wow, this is really incredible.

The ocean was behind me so this can't be the ocean.

This must be a lake.

Oh it's a big lake.

So here's the ocean.

And here are the lakes.

One, two, three, four, five lakes.

Five lakes here.

This is Mikatagoko, the Five Lakes of Mikata.

A popular cycle route runs around these lakes.

The lake's like a mirror.

I can see the mountains and everything reflected in the lake.

Wonderful cycling road.

The lake is incredible.

There's something about seeing the world by bicycle,

It's so much different and so much more fulfilling.

When your power is here that's running the engine to move the machine

and you just have the air, all of the senses you can feel nature.

Bicycle is the best way to experience the world.

Beautiful.

Here's another lake.

Ah, there it says "heshiko."

I wonder what "heshiko" is.

Never seen that word before.

"Heshiko."

Excuse me.

What does "heshiko" mean?

Good morning.

It's fish pickled in fermented rice bran.

This is a traditional local method for preserving their famous mackerel.

Fishing families made it to eat during the winter months when their boats can't go to sea.

Mackerel is first pickled in salt, then in bran, and left for twelve months.

The pickles are weighted with a heavy stone
and fermented for a whole year.

The more love you give it, the tastier it gets.

The recommended way to eat "heshiko" is thinly sliced, with daikon radish.

Here goes.

You've probably never tasted
anything like this before.

No, but I like it.

It's got a sweetness to it, but the first impression is a saltiness.

But then as you're eating it, you really feel the protein.

It's a little bit almost like beef jerky or salmon jerky.

And so it's got a really deep flavor.

So it goes good with unflavored vegetables I think.

I can definitely taste the love.

Oh, look at the white sandy beach.

This is paradise.

The Fukui coast faces westwards, and is famous for magnificent sunsets.

Such an incredible day.

Today's road will take Michael over the mountains to Echizen.

Oh, look at this tunnel.

This is cool. It looks like a train tunnel, but no tracks.

In fact, trains did once run through this tunnel.

About 120 years ago, when Echizen was a major center for overseas trade,

it built one of Japan's earliest railways.

Really interesting.

The railway service ended 60 years ago, but 11 tunnels still remain and can be cycled through.

It's a lot colder in here.

It's totally black.

Can't see anything.

Now that my eyes are finally getting adjusted to the dark.

Ah, these walls.

They're like old limestone walls.

I can tell it's slippery underneath.

That was an adventure.

Another tunnel.

Oh, it's cold. It's cold before I get to it.

Temperature is really different in here.

That was cold and wet.

Just exactly what people want in an amusement park ride.

But we get it under our own power, and it's naturally historical and not trying to look historical.

It's the real historic ride.

I'll never forget that.

It's a wonderful experience.

After a 40-kilometer ride, Michael has arrived in Echizen.

This city is still full of buildings from an earlier age.

Echizen was famous as a center of traditional crafts.

Oh, that's the place I want to go.

This "Echizen washi" paper mill was founded 102 years ago.

Paper making here dates back about 1,500 years.

"Echizen washi" is a high-quality handmade paper.

There are still over 50 mills here making it in the traditional way.

The third-generation owner of this mill, Igarashi Kozo, shows Michael some special paper.

This paper won't tear if you pull on it.

- Even if I use all my strength?
- Give it a go.

What makes it so strong?

We use a fiber called "ganpi."
It makes very tough, glossy paper.

Several plants can be used to make washi.

Over those 1,500 years, Echizen artisans evolved many techniques to improve the quality of their paper.

We make paper the traditional way,
but we'll also add anything customers want.

One of the most attractive styles of "Echizen washi" uses a marbling technique called "suminagashi."

This produces beautiful rippling patterns.

It's said this technique has its roots in a pastime enjoyed by the old imperial court.

Drops of color spread out in concentric circles.

A brush dipped in oil produces clear rings between the colored ones, creating patterns on the water.

That's amazing.

As she fans it, the slight breeze moves
the water and the patterns change.

No two pieces are ever the same.

Now, she gently lowers a sheet of washi onto the water.

Oh, that's so beautiful!

A stunning effect.

Time for Michael to have a try.

My theme for this, at least what I'm envisioning in my mind is flowers, nature and flowers.

Once the paper touches the water, just let it fall.

I was a bit too rough.

Let's have a look.

Oh, nicely done!

I was afraid that you wouldn't really be able to see the colors because they're so faint in the water.

But on the paper, they come out clear.

So I was trying to make something that would relax the person who saw it.

Echizen is famous for many crafts besides washi, and Michael is now going to see another kind.

Kurosaki Knives, Echizen Japan.

- Hello! Is Kurasaki san there?
- That's me.

I was hoping to meet you.
My name's Michael.

Pleased to meet you.

We're at the workshop of Kurosaki Yu, master knifemaker.

Wow!

These are all chef's knives, or "hocho."

Some do look like kitchen knives,
but some seem more like swords.

The handles are tremendous too.

A simple handle, but such a striking knife.

The handle is lacquered.
This model is very popular overseas.

Kurosaki is famous among knife enthusiasts in Europe and the US.

He's known for the beauty of his blade designs.

These are really works of art. And they're practical works of art.

Amazing.

The techniques for making such blades have been handed down through generations of Echizen knife makers.

It's a tradition going back 700 years.

One of their techniques is to hammer out two blades simultaneously.

I beat the two pieces out together.

This keeps the metal hot,
and I can make the blades thinner.

Making two knives at once is more efficient.

Echizen knives are thin and razor sharp.

That's why top chefs choose them.

When Kurosaki took up this craft at age 22,

he'd had no previous connection to the world of knifemaking.

Before I became a knifemaker,
I did many things. I played around a lot.

But once I started making knives,
I found I loved it.

I've always wanted to make a name for myself.
Even just a second or two of fame.

After learning the traditional craft, Kurosaki went on to develop his own style.

His blades feature unique hammered patterns.

- Why do you decorate them like this?
- To make them distinctive.

I'm the only one who has
this slanted hammered finish.

It also prevents food from clinging to the surface.

Let's see how sharp his knives are.

I'll slice as fine as I can.

I've never been able to cut a tomato this thin before.

It just feels so good in your hand.

I've never eaten a tomato sliced this thin before.

Customers tell me sharp blades
make cooking so much more fun.

That's what makes me happiest about my work.

Echizen knifemakers are now designing their blades with an eye on the world market.

The craft is growing, and attracting fresh blood from all over Japan.

Kurosaki has recently taken on two apprentices.

I hope my apprentices will go on
to set up their own knife making shops.

That's my biggest dream.

Combining innovation with tradition - the artisans of Echizen.

To start his last day, Michael has come to Fukui City.

I caught it.

He has an appointment here.

Okay, let's go in the high school and meet some kids.

Good morning! I'm Michael.

- This looks like a strong team.
- Not as tough as you, I think.

- Who is your captain?
- That's me. Sasajima Ryuki.

You look like a racer.

I've won some national events.
Lost some too.

Sasajima has been selected for Japan's junior national team.

We've planned a course to show you our area.
We'll take you to Tsurugi Shrine.

It will be a great experience
for my team to ride with you.

Feel free to race ahead of the pack.

I think it's me that will get left behind.
These days, I'm just a tourist.

Take care, and have a good ride.

They're taking him along on a 20-kilometer training run.

Sasajima leads the pack.

This is fun.

Never ridden with a high school cycling team before.

This is cool. Good experience.

Set on becoming Japan's best, the team trains seriously six days a week.

On weekends they up the pace even more, riding over 100 kilometers.

- This is it.
- What a great place.

Bow twice.

Team spirit is their strong point. No one has quit this team in years.

Hearing Michael was once an Olympic hopeful, they're full of questions.

How long do you normally ride?

When I was training for the Olympics,
I rode 20,000 km a year.

What's the key to riding fast on the road?

What are the best things to eat?

Do you have a way to pedal more efficiently?

Keen to improve their technique, these young cyclists are grateful for the smallest hint.

What's your dream?

My ultimate dream would be
to win the Tour de France.

That's the hope that inspires me.

I've been racing like 25 years longer than those kids.

It really warms my heart as a cyclist and as a racer.

The last section to ride.

Oh, look at that view.

Look at that.

I love roads with no cars!

I love Fukui!

I see my goal. I see my goal.

Seeing the sunset.

Those cliffs are awesome.

To end his trip through Fukui, Michael has come to this tiny island,

legendary home to the gods of the sea.

See the sun coming down?

The sun's just about to set on this beautiful island of the gods here.

It really, really, really impressed me.

That's something that I really notice the people here,

they're not strong, like trying to be tough strong.

They're strong like their inner strength.

You know that I've met so many wonderful artisans on this trip

and they're not trying to imitate others.

They're bringing in the old traditions, things that have been done for hundreds of years,

and they're putting their own personal touch on it

because they have confidence in what they're doing and confidence in their art form.

This time I got to spend more time and meet the people

and it makes me love Fukui Prefecture even more.

I definitely want to come back if possible, every year to Fukui.

Fukui is a place where tradition and skills are valued.

But even more valued here is the development of inner strength,

the confidence to keep evolving and growing.