Rika's TOKYO CUISINE: Wasabi and Home-dried Mushroom Pasta

Dining with the Chef!

Hello, and welcome to Dining with the Chef.

I'm Rika Yukimasa.

In Japan, various methods of preserving perishables have been developed and handed down since ancient times.

Today, I'd like to share with you some of my mushroom recipes that make the most of one such method: drying.

Tokyo, an Asian city with the largest metropolitan population in the world,

the boundaries between old Japan and futuristic Japan are blurred in this metropolis.

The food here is a fusion of cuisine, not just from around Asia, but around the globe.

In this program, Tokyo-based culinary artist, Rika Yukimasa demonstrates the current trends from her own kitchen, near Tokyo Bay.

Our co-host is Patrick Harlan, widely known in Japan as Pakkun.

Rika's Tokyo Cuisine.

Today, a Japanese-style pasta packed with delicious mushrooms.

First up, a zesty wasabi pasta bursting with the condensed flavor of dried mushrooms and Japanese spices.

Our second dish, is a ground meat omelet that brings back fond memories for Rika.

The combination of umami-rich meat, sweet onions, and fluffy eggs, makes it a special treat.

Both dishes offer a tantalizing mix of textures and flavors.

Let's look at the ingredients for the wasabi and dried mushroom pasta.

The key to good pasta is salting the water and boiling to al dente.

You're going to love the tantalizing aroma of Japanese spices,

and the condensed umami flavor and texture of the dried mushrooms.

I'm excited because I and pretty much everyone here in Japan loves mushrooms.

- Mushrooms are a big part of the diet here, right?
- Right.

Mushrooms are eaten all over the world, especially in Japan.

Hundreds of species of edible mushrooms are cultivated here,

making us one of the leading producers and consumers.

That's right. You go to a Japanese supermarket and there will be dozens of varieties of mushrooms.

It's incredible.

Yeah. Japan is an island nation, much of which is forest.

And with four distinct season, it provides an ideal environment for mushrooms.

Mushrooms have been part of our diet since long ago.

And when it comes to mushrooms farming,

Japan leads the world in the development of state of the art cultivation technology.

- Interesting.
- Yes.

Today, we'll be using "shiitake," "enoki," and two other kinds of mushrooms,

each with a different character and nutritional value.

- We want to dry these mushrooms.
- Oh, that's what we are doing.

So, the best way to dry is to place under the sun.

- You dry them under the ultraviolet rays.
- Right.

I think that's the best, you can make the mushrooms more nutritious with the sun.

Sun-drying, is a type of food preservation, that has been practiced in Japan, for about 4,000 years.

Sun-drying not only preserves but also condenses the flavor of food,

which is why it's used to preserve everything from fruits and vegetables to seafood, in addition to seaweed.

Today, Rika is going to show us an easy way to reproduce the effects of sun-drying in the kitchen.

- So what you do is really easy.
- Mm-hmm.

You want to just cut into this, we call it "jiku."

- This part, some people cut it, but I think it's really tasty.
- Sure.

So you want to keep it.

The only place you have to cut is the bottom.

Just the part that was in the dirt.

Yes.

Okay.

The mushrooms will shrink when dried, so cut them into fairly large bite-size pieces.

I love the smell of "enoki."

- "Enoki" is just such a fun mushroom.
- Yeah.

- And it's the cheapest
- It is.

You can find really, really cheap in Japan.

And because it's so easy to use, you don't even need to cut "enoki."

Right.

It's fun for kids to use, to cook too.

How much do we need?

We want to eat fill of mushrooms today, so I'd say at least two handfuls.

- Two handfuls of mushrooms.
- Yes.

Wow. Okay.

So if you give two handfuls of different kinds of mushrooms, it gives you more umami and aroma.

Right.

What should we do?

Even if you forgot that you place under the sun,

You can also grill it under 120 Celsius degrees, which is very low temperature.

Okay.

How long?

- Like 20 minutes.
- 20 minutes in the oven.

Let's do that.

Oven-drying produces similar results to sun-drying.

The effect varies depending on the ingredients.

For the mushrooms, drying activates the enzymes in the mushrooms,

increasing both umami flavor and nutritional value.

There is also a marked improvement in aroma and texture.

While we're waiting for the mushrooms to dry, let's make the sauce.

- We're going to slice the garlic.
- All right.

And this is the sort of like Italian way of cooking pasta.

But today, we are adding wasabi and soy sauce to make it a little bit Japanese.

Nice! Wasabi with pasta.

- It's good.
- Yeah.

- It's not that common. You don't hear a lot, but it goes so well.
- So well.

So, you cut up the garlic.

Some people cut it into thin, like small pieces, but I cut into the chunks because it's easier.

And then, you place some olive oil and then add the garlic.

So what I'm doing is to cook at lower heat and then bring out the aroma and the flavor of garlic into a oil.

Nice. Okay.

So, it's not just cooking the garlic, it's also making the entire dish more garlic flavor.

Okay.

So if you are on a diet, what you do is instead of having a lots of oil,

you can just tilt it so that you don't need to use a lot of oil.

Okay, just gather the oil in one portion of the pan and cook it there.

Smart.

And usually if you're cooking the Italian pasta, you would add red pepper here.

Right.

But since we're adding wasabi in the end, do not over put more spices.

Right.

Cook the garlic over low heat for 3 or 4 minutes.

Then, cook in residual heat for 2 or 3 minutes to slowly infuse the oil without burning the garlic.

Now for the pasta.

Today, we're going to use the standard 1.6 milimetre thick spaghetti,

which is perfect for cooking with olive oil.

Pasta, you need to add some salt.

To the water when you cook it. Okay.

So usually I put about two tablespoons of salt to two liter of water.

Great.

So I've got a tablespoon.

And you said two tablespoons.

All right, here we go.

Because it's two liters.

One.

Two.

All right.

The key to making good pasta, is to salt it properly.

The water used to boil the pasta should taste slightly salty.

Drop the pasta in the boiling water so that it spreads out radially.

This ensures that it cooks evenly.

And are you one of the people who says don't stir your pasta, or is it okay to stir the pasta?

Well, I don't stir much. Really?

Like once or twice. Yes.

Okay.

Another key point is to cook the pasta, for a minute less then indicated on the pasta package.

- We will continue cooking in this sauce extra one minute.
- Okay.

You want to cook the pasta al dente.

Which means a little white part.

- Just a little.
- Just a little white part in the center.

Yeah.

Aim to finish cooking the sauce just as the pasta is ready.

Since the pasta has already been cooked in salted water, it will absorb the sauce more easily.

Could you give me just a cup of boiled water?

Another key point is to make the most of the pasta water.

So you're cooking the pasta water with the olive oil and garlic.

Really? Why?

I'm trying to make the sauce.

Oh, okay.

The pasta water is infused with amino acid, the source of umami, and salt.

Using the pasta water will give the sauce a complex flavor.

And, since the pasta water contains starch, it will help emulsify the sauce,

so that it sticks to the pasta.

Then it's important that you move so that the oil and also the pasta water is mixed well.

Interesting. Okay.

- And you see, once you start, this sauce becomes creamy, right?
- Mm-hmm.

Then, you add some chicken soup.

Wasabi.

Soy sauce.

And... butter.

Ohh.

Smells nice.

There's no way that's not going to be amazing.

- So you said you add a chicken soup like powdered mix?
- Yes.

Interesting.

- This is some of the trick I've learned from the Napolitan chef.
- Mm-hmm.

Because I went to Italy, and the pasta tasted so good.

I kept on going to the same restaurant, eating the same thing, wondering what's in it.

And he told me, actually, we don't do it, we actually make the chicken soup.

He said it's his original, not many people do it, but it tasted so good.

But at home, I know you don't make chicken soup for pasta.

You can try out with the granulated.

Judging by the heavenly smell, the mushrooms are about ready.

- We're still busy over here.
- Yes.

Beautiful dried mushrooms. Ready to go.

Drying reduces the volume of the mushrooms, and concentrates the flavor.

- I'm gonna take off pasta here.
- Okay.

I think it's done.

Looks so good.

I'm gonna start cooking the pasta.

And this mashroom.

And you put it on high heat now.

Yes.

- I'm gonna mix it.
- So you're gonna stir the pasta, nice.

- It smells so good in this kitchen right now.
- Yes.

So, the pasta starts to absorb the source.

Right.

This will differ from having a pasta sauce on the pasta.

This is the pasta soaked with the sauce in the frying pan.

What do you think? Pretty good?

Nice.

- I'm going to put a little bit of olive oil.
- Okay.

Oh, this is so tasty.

Wasabi... sometimes some of my friends come over from Denmark or other countries,

I try to serve this wasabi pasta.

They definitely bring back a pack of wasabi.

Seems impossible to eat that much mashroom, right?

Yeah, two handful is huge, but it dried out.

It's not much. Two of us can eat.

- Smells wonderful.
- Beautiful.

Save the mushrooms to put on top at the end.

Nice.

Now, just put "shiso" leaves.

- You can also use basil or Italian parsley.
- Sure.

Blue and yellowish mashrooms with green "shiso" leaves.

- Well, if you want a little bit spicier, you can add some black pepper.
- Oh.

Nice.

- If you really like parmesan cheese, you could also put little bit.
- Sure.

- Entirely up to you.
- Yes.

This is gonna be so good. I can't wait.

Well, we have one masterpiece already made, what are we doing next?

I'm going to go down memory lane and make an omelet that my mother used to make for when I was a child.

Here are the ingredients for the ground meat omelet.

Rika recommends using pork because it's tender and rich in flavor.

The key to this dish is to make the omelet fluffy.

Rika uses sugar as a hidden seasoning.

- This is unusual to put some ground pork, but I think it tastes really good.
- Okay.

And I introduce this to my friends, they all like it.

- You have such a cool way of dicing onions.
- Yeah?

It's a great idea.

- And you hold it tight.
- Mm-hmm.

Always hold tight.

Next, we're going to start sauteing the ground meat and onion.

All right.

And you have to place the heat to medium.

And you add some ground meat.

Omelets usually call for butter.

But since the ground pork is packed with umami,

Rika recommends using a light vegetable oil, such as corn oil.

And you put the onion, too.

Okay.

You just sort of like, divide all these ground meats.

Okay, right. So if you see a clump, you divide it.

Hmm, this is nice proportion of onion and meat.

And we sprinkle a little bit of salt.

I would say one pinch with three fingers.

- One pinch with three fingers.
- Thank you.

- Smells good.
- Yes.

So, we're not... are we browning?

We want to sort of burn the outside or no?

- No.
- Okay.

Just cook it through.

Just light brown.

- Yes.
- Okay.

And we put some pepper.

After adding the pepper, cook the meat through before preparing the egg liquid.

Okay, use two eggs.

And now you remember the rule of how much salt we put?

- One, two fingers pinch per egg.
- Yes.

And this is very unique of this omelet... I put about one tablespoon of sugar.

- Hmm, quite a bit.
- Yes.

- You place to sort of like bring out the umami flavor with everything else.
- Right.

- This is fun.
- Yeah.

You should cook with people if you have a chance.

- Cooking with people is always fun.
- Yeah.

- It's almost like doing some kind of project together.
- Sure.

- Okay, so turn off the heat.
- Okay.

- And put this meat mixture into the egg mixture.
- All right.

Remove the meat mixture and wipe the pan clean to prepare for the omelet.

Place the pan on high heat and drizzle with oil.

- If you have a problem with your omelet sticky, it's often because you don't have a hot enough fry pan.
- Right, right.

And oil.

And there are ways to tell. I'll show you.

What you do is you can place a little bit of egg.

A drop of egg mixture.

And then if it gets like this, it's ready.

I see. All right.

And once it got hot, I'm going to pour in.

- And mix the center. Just a little bit.
- Are you still on high heat?

Right now, yes.

But I'm going to turn the heat to medium.

Okay.

Cook over medium heat, for about 20 seconds,

then reduce the heat to low, to avoid overcooking the omelet.

What you do is just fold it.

If you want to make a three-fold omelet, fold one side over towards the center.

Then, fold the other half, while tilting the pan towards the center.

This will give you a fluffy, three-fold omelet.

And you use this edge of the frying pan.

Sort of like to form the shape.

What I do is I place this.

And then became this,

Beautiful.

Meat frying omelet.

Yeah, Okay.

It looks great.

- Looks all right, doesn't it?
- Yes, it does.

Every time I eat this omelet, I remember my mother, who's always, you know, like in trouble towards the end of the month.

- When the paycheck starts running low, right?
- Yes.

And then, you know, we became very considered children and say,

"Mommy, this is extremely good," because knowing that she feels a little bit guilty.

- Really? Yeah.
- Because she spent it all.

So, she was serving us eggs and ground meat every day.

- Really?
- Yes.

- I think this looks great.
- Yes.

- I would have this on my birthday.
- Hahaha.

And from here, you can also put either asparagus or string beans, whichever.

You can also mix it.

And you can place it on top.

You can have green and yellow.

- Beautiful.
- Together.

Garnish with blanched asparagus spears and serve with ketchup to taste.

- Well, thank you. That was super easy and fun.
- Yes.

And now for the moment, when we pass through the pearly gates and enter paradise.

Itadakimasu!

Uh, look at this, the pasta is gorgeous.

And I am going to start with just a little bit of "shiitake" with my spaghetti.

Mhm.

Oh, wow.

Butter and wasabi, oh so good.

The rich, creamy umami flavor of butter are woozing, and wasabi.

I love using this butter and soy sauce and wasabi for pasta.

So good.

And these mushrooms.

I didn't realize you dried mushrooms in just 20 minutes.

It seems like such a hassle but the drying really condenses the flavor.

And it gives them a little bit more elasticity when you chew them, makes them a little bit more firm.

So it's more like eating meat or... or something that you consider more of a main dish

as opposed to a mushroom which is just, you know, a side actor with a little drying.

- The mushroom becomes a Hollywood star.
- Yeah.

Now let's move on the omelet.

Your mother's favorite.

Oh, that warms the heart and the soul.

I know, I've never really had an omelet with ground pork.

But maybe because it's ground, maybe it's just the way you cooked it so well.

The flavors are really spread out through, throughout the egg and the onions.

They all have this pork flavor mixed in. It's really rich and lovely.

It's cooked on the outside, but still a little runny on the inside.

- Just how I like it.
- Great.

You know, I made it, so it seems a little bit braggadocios of me, but this is the world's best omelet.

Thank you.

- So good. Thank you.
- Thank you.

The ingredients and cooking methods used in various cultures reflect the local terrain and climate.

Japan is surrounded by the sea and is blessed with an abundance of forest and water resources.

Most of the crops have a high moisture content,

encouraging the development of traditional drying methods to prolong the shelf life,

and tide people over during the long, cold winter months.

Drying also condenses the flavor.

So, I hope you'll try drying some of your local vegetables, and have fun cooking.

Well, we did dry out the mushrooms today, but the meal was so good and so nostalgic.

- I'm getting little bit moist over here.
- Hahaha.

Thanks for joining us and we'll see you again on Dining with the Chef.

See you next time.

Bye bye.

All right, let's review today's recipes.

First, the wasabi mushroom pasta.

Cut the mushrooms into fairly large pieces and dry in the oven,

for 20 minutes, at 120 degrees Celsius to condense the umami flavor.

Slice and cook the garlic in olive oil, to infuse the oil with flavor.

Cook the pasta a minute less than the instructions on the package.

Add some of the pasta's water to the garlic oil to thicken and emulsify.

Then, add wasabi, soy sauce, and butter.

Add the pasta and dried mushrooms and mix together.

Top with "shiso" leaves and grated parmesan to serve.

Next, the ground pork omelet.

Saute the ground pork and chopped onions and season with salt and pepper.

Beat the eggs with salt and sugar.

Combine with the ground pork mixture and pour into a hot and oiled pan.

Reduce the heat to low and fold into an omelet.

Serve with ketchup and enjoy.

With a little help from Rika, your cooking will reach the next level, elegant and oh so delicious.