Tochigi: Destinations of Timeless Calm

"Journeys in Japan"

A journey with a difference

to find harmony with wildlife.

In search of contemporary ideas,

while drawing on the wisdom of the past.

Destinations far from daily life.

Vistas loved as much today

as they were in years gone by.

Rising above the ordinary.

A place to immerse yourself surrounded by nature,

a place to find calm.

On this edition of "Journeys in Japan,"

timeless destinations of peace and relaxation.

Tochigi: Destinations of timeless calm

Tochigi Prefecture lies in the north of the great Kanto Plain,

bordering the highlands of northeast Japan.

Goodness, where am I?

High in the uplands of northwest Tochigi, you reach Lake Chuzenji,

over 1,200 meters above sea level.

Of course, I remember this view.

A very familiar location for Ernest Satow.

Satow was a British diplomat who arrived in Japan in 1862,

just before the end of the feudal era.

He spent 25 years in the country, and he made a big contribution to opening Japan.

One hundred twenty years later, Satow has somehow returned to modern-day Japan

but just for two days.

Like Satow, Alfie Goodrich is also from Britain.

A photographer by profession, his photos capture the spectrum of life in Japan:

culture, fashion, landscapes.

Satow is also traveling with a camera in his hand.

Back in the 19th century, Satow enjoyed a deep connection with Lake Chuzenji.

Ah, there she is.

Beautiful.

This lakeside holiday villa was actually built by Satow.

Well, it certainly looks like my house but what are all these people doing here?

Something's changed.

Is that Mr. Satow?

Are you Mr. Satow?

Yes, I am.

Nice to meet you. My name is Kojima.

Photographer Kojima Kimio is a great fan of Lake Chuzenji.

He is well aware that Satow built this villa.

By the way, what year is it?

It's 2022. More than 120 years have passed since you built this villa.

After you returned home, this building became the British Embassy villa.

Now it's open to the public.

I've heard that you used to come here not just in summer but also often in winter.

You liked this place very much, didn't you?

Especially this view from the second floor.

Satow loved spending time in his villa, no matter what the season.

Please look around and see what's changed in this area that you liked so much.

After Satow returned to England, many embassies built villas at Lake Chuzenji.

The European and US diplomats used to spend the summer there.

It became a popular summer resort for foreigners.

The scenery of Lake Chuzenji was reminiscent of the Alpine lakes of Europe.

For the diplomatic community, one sport, in particular, caught on: sailing.

This box contains the rule books and notebooks

that recorded the results of races held by the Nantaisan Yacht Club,

which was set up in 1906

by the British Ambassador and other enthusiasts.

The yachting club ended its activities in the 1930s.

Ninety years have passed.

Ever since your day, yachtsmen all over Japan have yearned to sail on Lake Chuzenji.

The water is clear and the views are beautiful.

That's why we revived the Nantaisan Yacht Club.

Saito Junichi is the deputy director of the reborn Nantaisan Yacht Club.

I must say, sailboats fit in perfectly on Lake Chuzenji.

Mr. Satow, did you enjoy sailing here?

I expect I enjoyed yachting when I was invited.

Would you like to go out today?

That sounds great!

This boat was built by hand, here in Japan.

Alfie, like Satow himself, has long enjoyed sailing.

This is his first time out in a dinghy in quite a while.

The boats here are no different from the sailboats found at the seaside,

and they handle in much the same way.

But sailing here on the lake requires more precise skills,

as the winds shift much more than out at sea.

It's so nice to be back on these clean waters

after 120 years of being away.

If I fall in, I don't need a shower.

It's not like the sea, so clean and beautiful,

surrounded by these beautiful green hills.

So happy to be back.

Oh, what do we have here?

Hello, Mr. Satow.

Hello.

Morita Takamichi works as a nature guide.

I often used to walk around this area. It brings back many memories.

This Japanese elm tree is about 300 years old.

These trees grow best in locations with plenty of water.

There are many of these elms on the lakeshore and along rivers here.

They are very beautiful.

I remember you, this tree,

from 120 years ago but I think you've got a little fatter.

Have you noticed anything that has changed, compared to the old days?

Since my time, it seems the plants are smaller.

Due to global warming, there's less snow now.

And the deer eat the young plants as they grow.

The deer population is increasing fast.

Once nature's balance is broken, it's hard to mend.

What is this pond? I don't think it was here in my day.

This was an aquaculture facility for trout and other fish.

It was set up here to take advantage of the abundant water.

In ancient times, there were no fish in Lake Chuzenji.

The reason for this is that the Kegon Falls are the only outlet for the lake water.

Because the waterfall is about 100 meters high,

there was no way that fish could make their way any further upstream.

However, once fish were released in Lake Chuzenji and other local rivers,

sport fishing caught on rapidly.

Fly fishing is said to have been started by British aristocracy some 500 years ago.

It was introduced to this area during Satow's time.

The artificial flies act as lures,

and are cast into the water using poles fitted with reels.

To this day, many people still like to go out fly fishing

in Lake Chuzenji and the surrounding area.

Coincidentally, a similar fishing method was practiced in the old days

in rivers downstream from Lake Chuzenji.

Mr. Hoshino!

Hello Mr. Satow. I've been waiting for you.

Where's your fishing rod?

I have it here.

It's very short!

Take a look.

In all, it's about 3.6 meters long.

But it has no reel.

We fish in narrow streams, so we don't need to cast the fly very far.

So the line is attached directly to the rod.

Known as "tenkara," this tradition dates back to Japan's feudal period.

Anglers around the country used this way of fishing in mountain streams.

This water here is very clear.

I can see the fish down there.

Those are "yamame" trout. Let's start fishing.

Tenkara fishing doesn't require strength. You just use your wrist.

You have to snap your wrist as you cast.

The timing is the important part.

Tenkara artificial flies are very similar to those used in fly fishing.

But the flies used in tenkara fishing look more realistic.

Yamame trout are native to Japan.

They're also known as cherry salmon.

They're about 20 centimeters long,

and are found in streams with clean, cold water.

Yamame trout are wary fish.

If they can tell the fly is artificial,

they remain in hiding behind the rocks and do not bite.

Somehow, the yamame could understand

that Satow was not skilled in tenkara fishing.

This is what he was hoping to catch.

Well, we haven't caught anything today.

I must say, the experience has not been a waste at all.

Being in this wonderful nature, it's relaxing and calming.

And I think one last thing to say would be a thank you

to the river and the fish.

In the northern part of Tochigi Prefecture lies the Nasu area.

It is famous for its numerous holiday villas.

Satow has come here to see what a modern holiday villa looks like.

Inside, this villa has a bright, modern, open-plan design.

While Chuzenji-ko's view is amazing but this is really something too.

This villa boasts a panoramic view over the Nasu area.

Well, everything seems modernized and comfortable

but I don't see any major changes from when I had my holiday home.

Would you like to see some other villas?

Yes, I would.

Are these metal boxes?

Yes. This villa is made from containers, used for transporting freight by ship.

From the interior, it's hard to imagine it's made from shipping containers.

It is fitted with all the facilities for visitors to feel pampered.

Good grief!

Please come inside.

What is this clear dome?

There are so many things to learn about this modern world.

This is a place for what we call "glamping." The word means "glamorous camping."

I see.

Oh, I like this.

Getting to sleep here in the middle of all this nature. Amazing.

People actually get to sleep in here,

in the middle of all this nature.

I love it.

There's even an outdoor dining facility for the people staying up here.

Well, this looks great but what am I supposed to do with it?

Who is going to cook this?

I suppose you don't know about barbecuing. You cook the meat and vegetables yourself.

Tochigi beef is exceptionally good.

Before Nasu became known for its holiday villas, dairy farming was widespread.

Later, many dairy farmers focused their efforts on rearing cattle for beef,

which became known for its rich, melt-in-your-mouth flavor.

Cooking your own food outside. How fun!

Oh, boy, that smells good.

Wonderful. The best.

I wish I'd been born in this era.

People seek out natural settings like this for both rest and recreation.

But, inevitably, that has an impact on the natural environment.

There's one place in Nasu that inspires visitors

to think about man's relationship with nature.

Many kinds of creatures coexist in these ponds.

These trees were due to be felled for a development project.

However, 318 of them were saved and transplanted here.

For each tree, the ideal location and spacing were considered.

The project took four years to complete.

It has been carefully landscaped to look natural.

But actually, it's entirely man-made.

This beautiful artificial environment raises deep questions

about the complex relationship between man and nature.

It's a delicate relationship that could break down

if it's not taken care of properly.

Next, Satow moves to Kinugawa, in northwest Tochigi.

My goodness!

Hello Mr. Satow. Today, we're going out canyoning.

The sport of canyoning involves hiking and sliding down the course of mountain streams.

To accustom yourself to the coldness of the water,

the first step is to dive right in.

Canyoning is said to have started when hikers began exploring mountain streams,

in search of unspoiled scenery.

What an extraordinary thing to do!

The people of the future are indeed radical in every way.

What on earth! By Jove, that feels good.

There are numerous mountain streams up here,

and the popularity of canyoning is increasing year by year.

However, I am getting a bit cold.

By Jove, what is this?

Hello.

What is this place?

It's a hot spring hotel.

A hot spring hotel?

You're probably feeling a bit cold. Let me guide you to your bath.

Kinugawa has been known for its hot springs for 300 years.

My goodness! Water from deep underground.

This is what you're surrendering yourself to.

That feels glorious!

What a splendid place!

So why did I build my holiday villa here in the first place?

Well, it was mainly to be in touch with nature, the flora, the fauna,

and I was able to make that connection.

And coming back here on this journey this time

has reminded me why I chose this place to begin with.

Over 120 years have passed since I was here,

and many things are changed.

But there is the ability of people to respond to changes in the environment

and the history and culture of the region.

People are trying to protect it.

No matter what kind of times we live in,

we pursue healing and relaxation.

And as human beings, we continue to devise new ways to heal and relax.

People will continue to respond to various changes,

and they will continue to protect the nature and culture of the region.

My journey here is now at an end

and it's time to bid you all a fond farewell.

From Tokyo, it takes about two hours by train to reach Nikko.

To Kinugawa, it takes two and a half hours.

And to Nasu, it's about an hour.