Fall Colors in Oku-Nikko: Mt. Nyoho

Autumn in Oku-Nikko. Join us on a climb to the summit of Mt. Nyoho (2,483m). Our guide is Abe Teruyuki, who also works at a local hotel. After setting off on the trail, we're immediately faced by 1,445 steps along the Tenku Kairo, or Heavenly Corridor! After that is a rocky scramble, and a shrine with links to a Japanese folk tale. Then it's onto a ridgeline with a lot of ups and downs. The path traces what's left after the collapse of an enormous mountain. Our trail takes in all kinds of terrain, and is a ten-hour return day trip through the beautiful fall landscapes of Oku-Nikko.

Mt. Nyoho
Mt. Nyoho
Autumn leaves
Climbing Mt. Nyoho
The top of Mt. Nyoho

Transcript

00:02

Japan has many famous mountains.

00:05

Today, we're visiting Mt. Nyoho, to enjoy autumn in the Oku-Nikko region.

00:21

A long, steep ridgeway awaits us.

00:28

Watch out for all the ups and downs.

00:34

Wend your way through fall-tinted forests.

00:40

It's a beautiful day.
Perfect climbing weather.

00:51

And feast your eyes on the scenery of Oku-Nikko!

01:11

Climbing Japan: Mt. Nyoho.

01:25

The Nikko mountains line the northern part of Tochigi prefecture.

01:35

Many of them are softly rounded, but Mt. Nyoho has sharp peaks.

01:44

Its summit stands 2,483 meters high.

01:55

We drive 20 minutes from Nikko station in the city center.

02:04

And we meet our guide in the parking lot for the Kirifuri Highlands.

02:16

Good morning!

02:18

Morning! I'm your guide,
Abe Teruyuki.

02:25

Abe Teruyuki is originally from Niigata prefecture.

02:30

But he fell in love with Nikko's landscape and moved here 20 years ago.

02:37

He works at a hotel, and also as a nature guide.

02:44

Have you heard the name
Nyoho before?

02:48

It's a famous type of strawberry.

02:51

It's named for the peak
as the 'summit' of great flavor!

02:58

Oh, interesting!

03:02

Fall has lovely leaves.
We'll see lots of color on our route.

03:07

That change in color
affects the landscape.

03:10

It's an extraordinary view
from the summit.

03:19

We set off from the Kirifuri Highlands.

03:23

First is the Tenku Kairo, which means Heavenly Corridor.

03:27

This is a long series of steps.

03:29

After that, we keep on climbing, to Mt. Akanagi.

03:34

From there we follow a ridgeway.

03:37

There's a lot of climbing and descending as we head up toward the summit of Mt. Nyoho.

03:43

Awaiting us is a spectacular view.

03:48

Getting there and back takes 10 hours, a full day.

03:51

Perfect for an avid hiker.

04:06

This is where we start today.

04:11

Huh?! With a staircase?!

04:17

There are 1,445 stairs in total!

04:21

Fourteen hundred forty-five!

04:25

That's right.
So let's get started!

04:31

The staircase brings us 230 meters higher.

04:48

What lovely trees!

04:52

It's a bright, broadleaf forest.

05:05

The view's different
out of the woods.

05:09

It's autumn in the meadows.

05:17

Fall colors everywhere we look!

05:27

Feels good.

05:29

It's lovely now, but this area
is also beautiful in late June.

05:38

Kisuge-Daira Park is home to broad dwarf day lilies.

05:46

In all, there are about a hundred different high-altitude plants here.

05:56

The weather's sunny today
so the breeze is welcome.

06:11

We've climbed a lot of steps.
But there's more to come.

06:17

What do you think?

06:22

Woah - these climb straight up!

06:30

Right into the sky! This must
be the Heavenly Corridor.

06:39

Time for us to climb into the sky.

06:46

Here we go!

06:51

"Heavenly Corridor" is a perfect name!

07:17

Are you okay!

07:19

We made it up all 1,445 steps!

07:23

We made it!

07:24

Great work!

07:29

So what's waiting for us up here?

07:35

What do you think of that view?

07:41

The Nikko Mountains are touched with autumn colors.

07:56

We can even see Mt. Tsukuba in neighboring Ibaraki Prefecture.

08:04

Perfect climbing weather.

08:12

The trail is much rougher here.

08:21

Look at these rocks.
It's hard going.

08:27

Watch your step.

08:33

Ninety minutes after we set out.

08:40

Congratulations, we've
reached Yakeishi Kongo.

08:44

Yakeishi means burnt stone.

08:47

That's an interesting name.

08:50

Well, "kongo" is a specialized
word for shrine.

08:55

And this is a volcanic region.

08:57

The "burnt stone" name comes
from the color of the rock.

09:02

I think the reddish tint
looks like a burn.

09:06

Makes sense!

09:19

As we climb, the color of the foliage changes.

09:31

It's so beautiful.

09:34

A lovely season.

09:49

Two and a half hours into the hike.

10:00

Great work! We've reached
the peak of Mt. Akanagi.

10:06

Akanagi Shrine is up here.

10:09

It's dedicated to Japanese
mythology's smallest deity.

10:14

This deity is very tiny and
inspired a Japanese folk tale.

10:21

Although the area's links to this deity are lost, it did inspire the tale of Issun-Boshi, the "inch-high hero."

10:30

Despite that diminutive size, Sukunabikona has many talents, answering prayers about medical, agricultural, and even brewing matters.

10:45

Now it's time for a Wider Outlook!

10:50

Takinoo Shrine lies at the foot of Mt. Nyoho.

10:57

It's said to have been founded by the monk Kukai in the year 820.

11:04

The shrine is dedicated to Tagorihime no Mikoto, the female deity of Mt. Nyoho.

11:16

This is the main hall.

11:20

The main hall has an unusual feature for a Japanese shrine.

11:27

There's a door at the back as well!

11:34

People originally
prayed to Mt. Nyoho here.

11:40

The opening at the back
faces the mountain.

11:49

Mt. Nyoho was worshipped as
a mother deity in Nikko.

11:55

Mt. Nantai was the father
and Mt. Taro was the child.

12:00

Together they were worshipped
as Nikko's Mountain Triad.

12:07

This knowledge makes climbing
the peaks more interesting.

12:21

We press onward.

12:41

You can see the mist rising
in front of the fall leaves.

12:46

"Kirifuri" means falling mist.
Weather here changes fast!

12:55

We keep heading for Mt. Nyoho, hoping for clearer skies.

13:03

The rock is wet and slippery.

13:13

After clambering down, next we climb up!

13:22

Take care, and use both hands.
Go slowly.

13:27

Okay!

13:35

The bare stone makes for a tough climb!

13:42

And there's lots of ups and downs.

13:57

The mist has lifted.
Blue skies!

14:01

Oh, what a view!

14:05

That's amazing!

14:07

Worth the climb!

14:14

The autumn colors are everywhere!

14:23

A crimson Japanese rowan stands out against the blue sky.

14:35

An enkianthus shrub with gleaming yellows and oranges.

14:47

There's fruit on it.

14:50

This is a forked viburnum.

14:52

The red ones look delicious but
the black ones are riper.

15:00

You can see it's preparing
for next year.

15:04

Look at the buds on these twigs.

15:08

They'll sprout leaves in spring.

15:14

These are flower buds.
Very different shape!

15:18

Don't count chickens
before they hatch.

15:21

But most plants prepare for
spring before fall arrives.

15:26

The flowers are like hydrangeas.

15:29

They really lift the spirits.

15:37

It's been three and a half hours of climbing now.

15:42

We're in the open!

15:48

That's the peak of Mt. Nyoho.

15:53

The tallest peak ahead of us.

15:57

So that's our goal, Mt. Nyoho!

16:06

Do you see this ridge on the right?

16:10

We call it Ichirigasone.

16:16

Ichi means one, and a ri is a distance of about four kilometers.

16:22

That's where this long ridge gets its name.

16:26

Next we'll follow that ridge.

16:30

Shall we get going?

16:41

We make our way along the Ichirigasone.

16:47

The path is a little easier than it was before.

16:52

No sharp ups and downs here.
Just enjoy the view.

17:11

This is such an enjoyable hike.

17:15

There are stiff climbs
and gentle strolls.

17:20

You can really soak up
the changes in the landscape.

17:46

Look over here.

17:53

You can see the ridge we've walked,
and the one ahead.

18:02

There's a horseshoe valley here.

18:06

But everything we see here was
once part of a single mountain.

18:11

Seriously?!

18:13

It collapsed, forming this valley.

18:22

I wonder just how high that
mountain must have been!

18:27

I'd love to have seen it.

18:33

We climb the ridge, dreaming of those prehistoric times.

18:47

At 2,200 meters above sea level the wind gets colder.

19:01

Now it's time for some Mountain Travel Gear!

19:06

The weather changes fast in autumn.

19:09

Make sure you're properly prepared to hike a long ridge.

19:16

Many folks underestimate Nikko
because it's close to Tokyo.

19:22

But its mountains can have
frost even in September.

19:27

Prepare for temperatures
to fall below freezing.

19:32

For every 100 meters you climb, the temperature falls 0.6 degrees Celsius.

19:42

When the wind speed gets one meter per second faster, you lose one degree of warmth to wind chill.

19:52

The summit is over ten degrees Celsius colder than the town of Nikko.

19:58

If it's windy it'll feel even colder than that.

20:03

First, rainwear.

20:05

The ridge we're walking today
is often very windy.

20:09

Rainwear is a great way
to prevent wind chill.

20:15

If you take longer breaks,
wear a down jacket underneath.

20:25

A thin down jacket under your top layer is enough in autumn.

20:30

And some of the latest gear will keep you just as warm even when it gets wet.

20:38

Do remember to keep your fingers protected.

20:46

Wear a thin pair of gloves, and bring a warmer, waterproof pair for layering if necessary.

21:06

We're almost at the peak of Mt. Nyoho.

21:21

I'm sure you're tired.

21:25

But we're about to hit
the trickiest part.

21:32

That looks like quite a scramble!

21:36

Watch your feet and take care.

21:41

The stone is fragile here and crumbles easily.

22:12

Ooph, we made it up safely!

22:17

That was tough!

22:19

But now we're rewarded
with this incredible view.

22:27

How beautiful!

22:31

Isn't it?

22:34

We've crossed the tree line.
What a view!

22:42

You can see how much
the landscape has changed.

22:48

We walked through tall trees
and subalpine coniferous trees.

22:54

These trees are all much shorter.

22:57

I always feel excited here.

23:00

Why?

23:01

These are dwarf stone pines.

23:06

This is the only spot in the area
where they grow so widely.

23:11

Old writings actually note:
Mt. Nyoho, dwarf stone pines.

23:23

We press on...

23:33

Little signs of autumn
among the pines.

23:41

Bright red leaves.

23:45

This is a bog bilberry.

23:50

The fruit is something
like blueberries.

23:59

This is a cowberry.

24:03

The deep red berries are the color of wine.

24:13

A light autumn breeze is blowing.

24:18

This is why I love hiking ridges.

24:36

Look!

24:38

There's the summit of Mt. Nyoho.

24:43

We're almost there!

24:47

Just one more push.

24:50

Let's go!

25:04

Six hours after we started.

25:10

We've reached the summit!

25:24

This is Mt. Nyoho Shrine.

25:29

This shrine here is also dedicated to Tagorihime no Mikoto, the female deity of Mt. Nyoho.

25:45

Now, to the peak.

26:11

We've done it.

26:14

We've climbed to the top of
Mt. Nyoho. 2,483 meters up.

26:20

Thank you for getting us here!

26:23

Let's enjoy the view.

26:32

What do you think?

26:35

It's beautiful!

26:41

Mt. Nantai lies ahead, one of Nikko's most famous mountains.

26:49

And Mt. Nikko Shirane.

26:56

Plus.

27:01

A faint glimpse of Mt. Fuji!

27:10

A 360-degree view of Oku-Nikko.

27:13

It's an amazing view.

27:27

It was once a single vast peak.
Monks came to train here.

27:34

Its geology and history
shaped today's peak.

27:38

It's an extraordinary place.

27:41

Mt. Nyoho provides such
a wonderful perspective.

27:50

Mt. Nyoho, a majestic peak of Oku-Nikko.

27:56

Our autumn mountain journey showcased its full splendor.