Troyes, France

Just look at all the vineyards!

I am in Champagne, a region in the northeast of France.

Yes, this is where champagne is produced.

I'm on my way to Troyes, which prospered as an international trading town during the Middle Ages.

It has a long history and is said to have existed for around 2000 years.

It's about an hour and a half from Paris by train.

I guess because it's so early, the passengers are very quiet.

And here I am!

I'm very excited to explore the town of Troyes.

Look at all the people waiting for the train.

It's 8:15 AM.

I think I'll head for the city center first!

But wait, I want to check the map.

This area is located in old town, and I seem to be right in the middle of it.

And that's the Seine River flowing nearby.

If I go this way, there's a market.

I think I'll check it out!

Good morning!

Look at that church!

Looks like a castle!

The center of the old town is a designated cultural heritage site, so many of the buildings built in the old days have been preserved.

I think I'll head down this way.

This cobblestone street is so charming!

That blue sky is fabulous!

A perfect day for a stroll!

More people on the streets.

Good morning!

Good morning.

I wonder why that guy has a shopping bag.

Oh, there's a market in front of the church.

I wonder what they're selling?

Fruit and vegetables.

They look so appetizing in the morning sun.

And this is...white asparagus!

Perfect for spring.

Just look at that bread!

Those are big!

They look homemade.

Ah, a father and daughter.

Good morning!

Good morning.

You like bread?

I see!

What kind of bread are you buying?

- I want one with cream in it.
- May I use your money?

No.

- To buy some sables?
- No, it's my money.

It's great to have a father who buys delicious food!

Goodbye.

I'll take some mushrooms.

Which kind would you like?

Just look at all the different kinds of mushrooms! Wow!

- I want 500 grams of shiitake.
- OK, 500 grams of shiitake.

Hmm?

What did he just say?

These are shiitake.

There are shiitake in France?

They've become more known.
Now they're very popular.

They’re delicious in cuisine
and healthy.

It's a mushroom with lots of
great qualities.

Really?

Oh, more customers.

Thank you! Bye!

I wasn't expecting to find shiitake at a French market!

What do we have here?

Haha, hello.

Oh, chickens! So many of them...

Excuse me.

Hello.

Are you buying a chicken?

Yes.

Not as a pet, right?

It's for eating.

Right...

We'll cook it with wine.
Mushrooms and carrots too.

Also, potatoes.

Wow.

How is he going to get it home?

Oh my!

I've got 6 held for you.

She's going to put the chicken in that box?

She's fast!

She's tying it off with string...

- Here you are.
- One moment.

And it's sold!

There are a lot of people up there.

What kind of store is this?

Hello.

Hello.

What is everyone here for?

The best andouillettes in Troyes.

Andouillette?

Andouillette.

What are they?

It's a pork product.

A traditional Troyes specialty.

The one’s sold here
are made by hand.

This store is the best.

So andouillettes are a local specialty.

I'd like to have a look inside.

Look at all those trophies!

Hello.

Hello.

Do you sell andouillette?

Yes, authentic Troyes andouillette.

Oh!

It's been a product of Troyes
for over 400 years.

Since the time of the Duke of Guise.
The soldiers arrived to invade.

But they caught a whiff of this
and worked up an appetite.

They attacked soup
of andouillette instead.

That's how our city was saved.

So, your city was saved by the andouillette.

Amazing.

My son is making some now.
Would you like to see?

Please follow me.

Excuse me.

Hello there.

Hello.

What did you just pour on that?

Champagne.
We pour it on when shaping it.

That’s how Troyes andouillette is made.

Well, we are in Champagne...

What are you working with?

Pig stomach and intestine.
Those two parts.

After this, we boil it in bouillon
for about 5 hours.

Then it's cooked in a frying pan,
or barbequed.

May I ask...

How long have you been making Troyes's best andouillette?

We've been working together
for about 5 years, I think?

Yes, it's been 5 years.

I started doing this when I was 24.

So, you're following in your father's footsteps.

My son won a contest in 2018.
Very good.

Not only has he picked up the trade,
he's surpassed me.

I couldn't be happier.

That is amazing!

You've surpassed your father...

Yes, I'm very proud.

My father's won a lot of titles.

And it's only been 5 years.

Hmmm!

Thank you for your time.

Thanks for seeing how it’s made.

We will continue working together
making delicious food!

Thank you for sharing your work with me...

How wonderful to see a father and son working together to keep the local tradition alive.

I bet there will be more trophies in there soon.

What a beautiful street.

Hello!

That is constructed with wood.

You can see the wooden framing from the outside.

Hello.

Oh, the one back there is similar.

Looks like something out of a picture book.

Time to check my guidebook...

They're half-timbered houses called 'colombages'.

These traditional buildings have been built in Europe since the Middle Ages.

There are so many still remaining here in the old town of Troyes.

Wow! I just love the way they look, even though they are old, they are fabulous to look at.

Just look at all the different colored colombages.

That building looks like a church.

It's very subdued looking.

I bet it looked like that back in the Middle Ages.

And what's over here?

Yup, still very traditional.

Oh?

What's that?

A donkey?

Postcards, a mannequin.

What kind of store is this?

I think I'll check it out.

Oh wow!

There's so much stuff!

Hello.

Oh you surprised me!

There are so many things, I couldn't see you!

I was hiding.

What kind of store is this?

We sell both antiques and new items.

We buy antiques from people
and artisans create the new items.

That's fantastic.

Anything interesting?

Got a bear.

A bear?

It's a toy from the early 20th century.

It carries many memories and stories.

The company that created
the first teddy bear made it.

It's rare to find one
in such good condition.

If you look into the bear’s eyes, you can see that he
has many stories to tell.

Hello bear!

Do you have lots of stories to tell?

Mhmm.

Everything here has a story to tell, I bet.

Yes of course.

We're not just selling things here.

We carry things with souls
and stories.

There are even things
I try not to sell.

Really?

Sometimes the buyer doesn't
respect the object.

Hurts me to see.

I can understand.

Mhmm.

There are so many stories in this shop.

It's like a collaboration...

...between the city and the store.

This city holds many stories.

I'm very happy to have
this shop in Troyes.

Thank you for sharing.

The pleasure was mine.

Goodbye.

Bye.

Troyes...

This town is full of so many things and stories...

Hello!

Are you enjoying the timber-framed architecture here in this city?

Troyes is surrounded by forests.

So, during the Middle Ages, lumber was in abundance and it was used to build many wooden structures.

Troyes thrived as a center for trade between the West and the East from the 12th to 13th centuries.

The amazing market here offered products from all over, including fabrics and spices.

It takes about an hour to walk through old town, and there are 10 churches here.

It is clear that the city was very prosperous.

This is the oldest church in Troyes, Sainte-Madeleine's Church.

It was built in the 12th century.

Look up there...

The partition is called a jube and it indicates an area where only clergy were allowed.

It looks as though it's a made of delicate stone lace.

This is quite rare and valuable, even in France.

The city continued to prosper, but in 1524, it suffered a major fire.

Many of the wooden buildings you see on the streets today were rebuilt following that fire.

At the start of the 17th century, the exteriors of the buildings were covered in plaster for fire protection.

But in the 1960s, residents began voicing a desire to see them in their original appearance.

Since the 1990s, restoration has begun in earnest to remove the plaster and expose the timber framing.

The beautifully restored exteriors have become a symbol of Troyes.

This museum makes use of a renovated wood building from the 16th century.

We hope to see you in Troyes!

It's 1 PM.

Another look at the map.

I went to the market, met the father and son making andouillette, spoke to the antique shop owner, and now I'm here.

I'm going to walk along this street and look at the old buildings in old town.

The blue sky and the wooden buildings are so picturesque!

Hmm, there's an alley here.

Ahh, it's a bit narrow!

Say what?

These buildings seem to be sharing support beams.

They're so close to each other.

Whew! I made it through!

Feels like a secret hideaway path.

There are stores here though.

What's this?

Kitty Cats!

A shop for kitty cat goods!

What do you think of Cat Alley?

Cat Alley?

Back there.

Oh, that alley I just passed through?

Yes, Cat Alley.

It's so narrow that cats can go
from roof to roof.

Yes, I was surprised at how narrow it was!

Narrow but worth going through, right?

It's a famous alley in Troyes.

I see!

Thank you for sharing that!

Goodbye!

Cat Alley huh.

Although right now, I can only see pigeons here.

I wonder what's down there?

Let's see.

Ah! Now, that took my breath away!

Is this a shortcut?

Oh, it's a courtyard.

Lots of surprises in Troyes.

Hm? Someone from a shop?

He's got some wine glasses.

- Hello.
- Hello.

Thank you.

Excuse me!

May I ask what you're doing?

We're doing wine tasting in a cellar
from the 13th century.

You want to join?

Really? Oh okay! Sounds fun!

Oh, we're going underground.

This town is just full of surprises!

Wow! Look at this!

Incredible that there could be such amazing world underground!

And this is from over 800 years ago.

We're in a wine cellar that
dates back to the 13th century.

We're still researching its history.

Let's start the tasting.
First, we have this champagne.

It's from Montgueux, near Troyes.

Oh, so it's made nearby.

Wow! Great sound!

The aroma is also very important.

Roasted almond
and hazelnut.

I also get toasted brioche.

- What kind of wine is it?
- 100% Chardonnay.

You're all champagne experts but you're still so young!

- Yes.
- No.

- Thanks for that.
- I'm around 30.

I'm past that.

I'm still under there.

You're a baby chick.

Haha.

What brought you to this tasting?

We live in a wine-producing area.

There are people in the vineyards
making wine nearby.

So I got interested.

I've gone to see where
they make the wine.

I meet people that work
in vineyards too.

My grandparents and relatives
are also involved in winemaking.

They teach me how good
this region is.

That's why I came to know the taste
of champagne at a very young age.

So, it's only natural that you'd be here.

- Only natural.
- Yes of course.

Like he said, I have family
as well as other relatives...

and friends who I also
share these traditions with.

I love having good wine with
a delicious meal.

So were there other wine cellars like this back then?

There are many in Troyes. This city
has existed since the Middle Ages.

But not many are so well restored.

Many are sealed off
or used for other things.

I see.

Thank you so much for inviting me to join you!

Goodbye.

Goodbye.

It's interesting that wine in Troyes is something people are connected to from a young age.

Hello, I'm Apollonia.

I'm going to show you some food and drinks you can only get in Troyes.

First, we'll begin with this amazing dish.

In 3rd place is Roasted Sea Bass with Champagne Sauce.

Two kinds of champagne are used - white and rose.

First mix rose champagne and agar together and bring to a boil.

Pour a thin layer of the sauce on a plate and let it cool into a sheet.

Add a lot of white champagne to the sauce.

Cream is then added to thicken the sauce.

Drape the sheet of rose sauce over the roasted sea bass.

And then the champagne sauce is poured over it and it's ready!

Mm, delicious!

The marriage between the delicate champagne, the sauce, and the sea bass is perfect.

Next, I'm going to show you a dessert.

In 2nd place is Tiramisu with prunelle liqueur.

The key to this is the special liqueur made in Troyes.

It's made from the seeds of prunelles.

A generous amount of prunelle liqueur is added to mascarpone cheese and cream.

After the mixture is whipped up, it is layered atop the tiramisu and then topped with strawberries.

Mm, it's so good with a prunelle liqueur.

And for the final dish... some Troyes home cooking.

This woman will be making it for me.

Hello.

Hello.

Anne, is a fabulous cook!

Leave everything to me.

In 1st place is Champagne Braised Veal.

The spine of the calf is also used.

Meat, carrots, onions, and herbs are stewed.

Melted butter is mixed into the flour...

and a lot of champagne is poured in!

Mix it all together and simmer for an hour and a half.

Mm, the veal is so tender, and you know, I can really taste the champagne.

Please come to Troyes and enjoy some really delicious food!

Goodbye.

Goodbye.

It's now 3:00 PM.

OK, map time.

I walked all around the old town.

Now I'm here, near the canal.

Oh, there it is.

The water in this canal is from the Seine.

It's used to supply drinking and tap water for the city.

This area is so inviting.

I think I'll walk along here.

The grass and trees...Great place to rest.

They seem to be enjoying themselves.

I wonder if this is a family get together.

Hello.

Oh, hi.

Sorry, am I disturbing you?

Just having a break.

The weather's great.

A beautiful day!

Do you live in Troyes?

- No, I don't live here.
- Came to visit my son.

He's a student here.

Him.

Oh, hello.

How do you like living in Troyes?

It’s a wonderful city, just great!

Nice!

It’s a small town,
so you can relax.

It’s a beautiful city, isn’t it!
The architecture, culture and champagne.

The food’s delicious!

Yes, the food is fabulous!

Enjoy yourselves!

Thank you.

Goodbye.

The whole family came to see him.

Isn't that nice?

The bank of the canal is a great place to hang out and relax!

It really is nice here.

Lots of people relaxing by the water.

Oh, she's with a dog!

Hello.

Hello.

Hi.

Enjoying the sun?

Yes. Great weather.

Your dog is very cute!

Come here. Don't be naughty.

Don't fall!

Must be thirsty.

Do you live nearby?

Yes, over there.

I pass the cathedral, come here,
and go back for one lap.

Sounds great!

Have a nice day!

Goodbye.

Enjoy your walk!

Maybe I'll head for Troyes Cathedral.

Ah, there it is!

I can see it behind that triangular roof!

The cathedral!

Wow! Here it is! Troyes Cathedral!

Let me check the guidebook...

"Troyes Cathedral is a Catholic church in the gothic style dedicated to Saint Peter and Saint Paul.

The construction was begun around 1200 and continued until the 17th century."

Wow that's a long time!

The carvings at the entrance are stunning!

Looks like it's undergoing a restoration.

This city certainly works to maintain the condition of the old buildings here.

I wonder if I can get through here?

Ahh, the timber-framing again!

The bottom is stone though.

I wonder what this building is?

Oh, that's a very interesting sign.

It's a hotel.

There's another strange sign here.

Looks like a store?

Oh, hello.

Hello.

What kind of store is this?

No, this is my house.

Your house?

Oh yeah, it says bridge tax house
on the sign.

There was a bridge here in the
16th century. You paid tax to cross.

The sign has the year 1550.

So this house is from the 16th century.

The front was restored
about 20 years ago.

The carvings are the faces of people
who used to live here.

Allan and Julie and Veronique.

Ah, so this is what the people who used to live here look like.

Would you like to come in?

May I?

Of course.

Come in.

Thank you.

Please put your bags down
and come in.

Careful.

Yes.

Ah, a wooden staircase.

It was my wife that was attracted
to this house first.

Love at first sight for this landing.

Come in.

Wow, you can see the timber framing.

Looks fabulous!

This is my wife.

Hello.

It's a beautiful home.

Thank you.

A wonderful old house.

That's its charm.

There are no straight lines.
Everything is a little curved.

And it's a house made of wood.

Yes, the wood is alive.
The house is living together with us.

Yes, a wooden house has a certain warmth to it.

Thank you for inviting me in!

Enjoy your time in Troyes.

Thanks for coming.

Goodbye!

What a wonderful house.

Many people have enjoyed living there, and a house behind the cathedral.

It's 5 PM now.

This is Alexandre Israël Square in the middle of the old town.

It's very laidback here.

What's going on here?

I wonder what this shop is selling?

It's so cute!

- Your order, miss?
- A crepe, please.

One crepe.

Crepes! They look so good!

The weather is great today.

- Did you go to the fair?
- Later, not yet.

It’s over tomorrow.

One moment for your chai.

It's gotten busy!

Looks like it's done.

How's it taste?

Too good.

Thank you.

Hello.

Hello.

Business is booming!

The weather is good. I’m very glad.

Crepe season is almost over.
We’ll be serving ice cream soon.

Ice cream!

Been in Troyes all my life.
Husband too.

This shop was established in 1923.

My husband’s grandmother
came from Italy.

She started selling ice cream here.

The store got bigger year after year.
I’m the 3rd generation, she’s the 4th.

4 generations!

The 4th.

I’m the 4th, she’s the 3rd.

Is the 4th from Troyes too?

Yes, Troyes people for 100 years.
We’ve put down roots here.

Yes, I’m ready to be buried here.

Living here is nice. People are kind.
I love this city.

That's wonderful!

I'm hoping for another 100 years for this shop!

I hope so too.
Yes, she has a son.

Yes, I’m raising the 5th generation.

Bye now!

Goodbye.

Glad to hear there's a 5th in line.

I didn't expect this shop to have 100 years of history.

Hmm? I hear music.

It's very lively.

What's this song?

"What makes a girl pretty?
It's the prunelle liqueur."

"Sing with me,
Troyes' prunelle liqueur."

"Oh, my cute Irène,
don't play with me."

"Let's drink one last cup
by the Seine River."

"Troyes' prunelle liqueur."

Everyone's singing along.

It must be a popular song.

That was so entertaining!

Hi, good evening.

What was that song?

It was a song about prunelle liqueur,
a liqueur from Troyes.

A song about liqueur?

Oh, this?

You sing it when you drink this.
People request the song.

When do you drink this?

Afternoon, evening, morning.
Just sing it when you drink it.

It's a song that celebrates
this liqueur made in Troyes.

It livens up the city and the people.

Is everyone from Troyes?

That's right. We are.

How fun to have a song about liqueur from Troyes!

There's also a song called
"Andouillette with Chaource cheese".

Wow!

It's about andouillette topped
with Chaource, lightly grilled.

Oh!

Let's sing "Andouillette."

Andouillette's that famous Troyes sausage, right?!

"One sunny day, I had to get the train.
And I arrived in Troyes."

"I only shopped at outlet stores."

"No factories, and I've got no work."

"One starry night, I met a girl
with a cute little behind."

"When we spoke, she told me this:" "I like andouillette
with Chaource cheese."

How fabulous!

Thank you for such a great time!

I love how everyone is singing about their local food!

They must love their city.

Bye now!

Troyes, with its beautiful half-timber architecture.

So many great stories hidden everywhere.

You never know what you'll find.

Wow! The city is all lit up!

There are so many treasures to discover in Troyes.