International Residents in Kagawa Experience the "Henro" Pilgrimage

Hello everyone, welcome to "Learn Japanese from the News."

Thanks for joining us.

In this program, we'll learn Japanese and about the country through Japanese news stories.

Today we're talking about a sacred journey.

So, Chiara, does this ring any bells?

Ah, of course.

Now these are pilgrims on the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage or "Henro."

Exactly.

Our headline today is: International Residents in Kagawa Experience the "Henro" Pilgrimage

Actually, I was based in Shikoku for a few years, and the "Henro" is a really important part of the local culture.

Yeah, definitely.

I've actually experienced walking parts of it myself, in Tokushima and Kochi Prefecture.

And parts of it are very scenic, and it's just so lovely to see Shikoku, by walking through the beautiful landscapes and villages.

It's great.

Definitely.

And today we'll also learn a little bit about religion in Japanese society.

But before we watch the news clip, let's go over some words to listen for.

otera.

Buddhist temple.

oboo-san.

Buddhist monk or priest.

omairi.

temple or shrine visit.

okyoo.

Buddhist sutra.

You'll notice all of those words start with the honorific "o."

Right. We use the polite form to show respect.

So we usually call the pilgrimage "Ohenro."

OK, let's watch the news clip.

In the "Henro", a pilgramage
of temples in Shikoku, participants visit 88 temples associated with
a Buddhist monk named Kobo Daishi.

In the Yashima area of
Takamatsu, Kagawa Pref., an event was held on Nov. 12

where international residents
got to experience the pilgramage.

About 10 people gathered,
including Americans and Thais.

Dressed in white pilgrimage outfits, they trekked to a temple
at the top of a mountain in Yashima.

Along the way, they visited
a place called Kaijisui.

It is said when Kobo Daishi brought down
his walking stick, water flowed forth.

The participants listened intently
to the explantion.

And after arriving at the temple,
they recited the sutra aloud.

A man who participated said,
"The hills made it a tough hike, but when I put on the pilgrimage outfit
it changed my mindset. It was fun."

OK, let's go over some basic facts about "Ohenro," the Shikoku Pilgrimage.

Now, Shikoku is one of Japan's main islands, and "Ohenro" connects 88 temples across Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime, and Kagawa Prefectures.

The entire route is about twelve-hundred kilometers long.

Now, most people use cars and buses, but it generally takes about 40 to 50 days to complete the pilgrimage on foot.

Prior to the pandemic, an average of seventy-to-eighty thousand people experienced "Ohenro" every year.

And the number of international visitors walking the pilgrimage was on the rise too.

Right.

Now, this is understandable.

It is one of very few pilgrimage routes in the world that goes in a loop.

And there's a big diversity between the landscapes throughout the pilgrimage.

Exactly.

OK. Let's review the following sentence from the story.

Shikoku no otera o aruite mawaru Henro de wa Kooboo-Daishi to iu oboo-san to
kankee ga aru

hachijuu-hachi no otera ni
omairi-shimasu.

Now read along with me.

Shikoku no otera o aruite mawaru Henro de wa Kooboo-Daishi to iu oboo-san to
kankee ga aru

hachijuu-hachi no otera ni
omairi-shimasu.

Ah, yes, Kooboo-Daishi.

He's quite the legendary figure in Japanese history.

Right.

Kooboo-Daishi, also known as Kuukai, was a great Buddhist monk who lived in the 8th and 9th century.

Born in Shikoku, he traveled to China to study Buddhism, and later founded his own sect after returning to Japan.

He was also a man of many talents, well-versed in everything from the arts to civil engineering.

Yes, in Japan he's revered as something of a cultural genius.

The Shikoku Pilgrimage is also known for the practice of "osettai," where local residents support pilgrims by offering them food, water, and places to rest.

Yes, actually, when I walked part of the pilgrimage route, I also received "osettai," even though I wasn't wearing traditional white garb.

So the kindness of people in Shikoku, it's... it's just amazing.

It is.

Now, let's check in with Tokunaga-sensei, to learn some basic terms related to visiting temples and shrines.

The Shikoku Pilgramage
is very famous.

A "tera" is a place where Buddhist ascetic practices
and rituals are performed.

We add the honorific "o"—
and say "otera."

Separate from Buddhism is Shinto,
th belief in acient Japanese deities.

Shinto rites are conducted
in places called "jinja."

In today's story, we heard
the phrase "otera ni omairi-suru."

"Omairi" refers to going to
an "otera" or "jinja" to pray.

Visiting the family grave
to pay your respects is also "omairi."

More specifically,
we say "ohaka-mairi."

Speaking of "omairi," temples and shrines across Japan will soon be crowded for "hatsumoode," when people go to pray for the first time during New Year's.

"Hatsumoode" season is the busiest time of year for temples and shrines in Japan.

In pre-pandemic times, tens of millions of people flocked to their local places of worship.

Although there is no strict definition, "hatsumoode" generally refers to visits made during the first week or two of January.

Recently, people have been urged to stagger their visits in order to prevent crowding.

Some opt to go at a different time altogether.

Now, let's go over the basics of visiting a Buddhist temple.

This is the entrance to Ikegami Honmon-ji, in Tokyo.

First, bow once in front of the main gate before entering, as you're stepping onto sacred ground.

Next, walk to the main hall, where the temple's principal object of worship is enshrined.

Once there, we place "osaisen," that is, a money offering, into the "saisenbako"—the offertory box.

Next, quietly bring your hands together in prayer.

When you're done, bow once before turning away.

Once you're finished paying your respects, some temples offer "goshuin," a special stamp given to worshippers in exchange for a donation of several hundred yen.

Each temple has a unique seal, making them beautiful keepsakes...

but keep in mind that these impressions are sacred.

So, today, we've talked about "Ohenro" and Buddhism in Japan.

So, Chiara, what are your thoughts on the role of religion in Japanese society today?

I think that, at first glance, Japan seems like quite a secular society, but when you look at the "Henro" and shrine festivals, you see that religion actually has an important role in community and culture.

Right.

In that sense, I suppose that it's more about customs and traditions, than maybe it is about religion.

The New Year is just a few days away.

For our viewers based here in Japan, I hope we've inspired you to pay a visit to your local temple or shrine for "hatsumoode."

Yes. And why not make 2023 the year you try walking part of the "Ohenro"?

Right. And that's all for today.

We'll see you next year.

Happy holidays!