
Chef Murota Takuto's restaurant is tucked away in a quiet corner of trend-setting Shibuya. Uniquely, he insists on using wild game, culled as so-called pests that can destroy crops or cause other harm. Wild game isn't mainstream in Japan, so as much as 90% goes to waste. He expresses his waste-not philosophy, using the bones and even the blood, as well as the meat, in his cooking. He believes that if we take a life, we owe that life a debt of respect. And his culinary creations are his way of repaying it.
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Since ancient times, the Japanese have believed that a life force resides in all creations.
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Valuing and caring for the things we use, a "Zero Waste Life."
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Pointing the way to better living for a new era.
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Just being delicious isn't enough.
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My intent is to intrigue the diner,
the food has to tell a story. -
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Shibuya, in the bustling heart of Tokyo.
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In this trend-setting district we find a small French restaurant, favored by foodies in the know.
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It offers wild game, still a rarity in Japan.
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Murota Takuto is the owner-chef...
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...taking wild-caught game to new levels of excellence.
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The menu changes daily.
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Wild game isn't hunted to order.
I can't just say, today it's wild boar. -
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If the venison is good today,
then that's what we'll offer. -
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Or maybe there's no duck,
so we serve bear instead. -
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There's no way to know
what I'll be serving tomorrow. -
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Murota chooses his meat according to a very particular criterion.
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It should come from animals hunted as so called "pests."
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In Japan as many as 1.2 million animals that can destroy crops or cause other harm, such as deer or wild boar, are culled by hunters annually as pests.
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But, as eating wild game isn't a major part of Japanese food culture, over 90% of it goes to waste.
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Murota buys this otherwise unwanted meat directly from hunters all over Japan.
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It's a female, right?
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This type of deer is classified as an invasive pest species.
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Alongside the hunter, Nagashima Satoru, Murota carefully examines the quality of the meat.
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If they struggle in the trap,
it can cause internal bleeding. -
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But there's almost none of that here.
This one was just caught yesterday. -
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- Are deer what you mostly get lately?
- Yeah, a lot more of them recently. -
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With wild boar numbers down,
their habitat is expanding. -
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They'll just keep multiplying
if nothing is done. -
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"Is it not commonly eaten?"
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I use the meat myself.
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But mostly it's burned for disposal.
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It just ends up in an incinerator
with all the other burnable trash. -
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If it's good enough to eat,
then why throw it away? -
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I believe using it is more respectful
to the animal itself too. -
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One of the reasons such meat is often discarded is that it's difficult to prepare.
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Unlike meat from domesticated animals, its condition varies.
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It's just like human beings.
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Some people like vegetables,
while others prefer meat. -
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All creatures have a personality,
they like to eat different things. -
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The meat has a personality too,
different flavors, different preferences. -
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To me, that's only natural.
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It's Murota's belief that no life, no living thing, should ever go to waste.
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And so, as much as possible, he makes use of the whole animal, even parts that aren't meat.
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He uses the bones to make stock.
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The organs are pureed to make sauce.
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Not even a drop of blood goes to waste.
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How should I put it?
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I don't like to eat like a nobleman,
only using the best parts like a feast. -
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I just can't see that as the right way
to appreciate the food we eat. -
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His full-course meals showcase this zero-waste philosophy.
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It begins with a deer blood macaron.
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Deer blood is used in place of egg whites.
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And the serving dish itself is deer hide.
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And the pest deer caught by the hunter Nagashima becomes this amazing dish...
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The main dish is a salmis of roast mallard.
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Trimmings, bits often discarded, are also included and the sauce makes use of the blood.
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And for dessert, a bear financier.
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A classic French pastry made with bear fat.
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Today, one of their regular customers is here for dinner.
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She's a huge fan of Murota's cooking.
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"Itadakimasu!"
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As I eat, I notice the taste,
but I'm also aware it's a living thing. -
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It speaks of the many different forms
that life itself can take. -
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In Japanese we always say, "itadakimasu,"
"I humbly receive this food." -
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I believe it's unique to our food culture,
and one of the best things about it. -
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It's a way of expressing gratitude for
receiving the life of the food we eat. -
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If I can remind diners of this,
then their meal here has meaning. -
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On his day off, Murota leaves the city center behind for the country.
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Trading his chef's knife for a gun, he hunts wild birds and other animals.
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For him, hunting is something to cherish.
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Meat in the supermarket is cold,
it just doesn't feel alive. -
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When I hunt, I know it's a living thing,
I give it the respect it deserves. -
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Hunting also helps me to reset,
so I can do my best in the kitchen. -
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It may not be the most important,
but it's one of the ways that I prepare. -
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A beautiful pheasant. Got it!
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Once caught, skillful preparation is required to make sure the end result is a culinary success.
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If it stays warm it'll start to rot,
so I clean and chill it immediately to keep it in the best condition. -
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After aging, the pheasant is transformed into this mouthwatering dish.
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Through cuisine and through hunting Murota shows his respect for all life.
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Something also seen in the name of his restaurant.
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"Lature" is a portmanteau of the French, larme, meaning "droplet" or "teardrop," and nature.
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Literally, nature is crying,
we have to do something. -
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That's the idea behind the name.
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We call some creatures pests,
but that's a human sin not theirs. -
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Instead of treating them like trash,
we can honor them as our food. -
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It's a way to atone for what we've done.