Life Taken, Life Received

Chef Murota Takuto's restaurant is tucked away in a quiet corner of trend-setting Shibuya. Uniquely, he insists on using wild game, culled as so-called pests that can destroy crops or cause other harm. Wild game isn't mainstream in Japan, so as much as 90% goes to waste. He expresses his waste-not philosophy, using the bones and even the blood, as well as the meat, in his cooking. He believes that if we take a life, we owe that life a debt of respect. And his culinary creations are his way of repaying it.

Wild animals considered "pests" are regularly culled in Japan. As much as 90% of the meat goes to waste.
Chef Murota Takuto insists on using wild game sourced from "pest" animals.
In the waste-not spirit, he makes use of even the bones and blood.
A gourmet dish made from a so-called pest.

Transcript

00:04

Since ancient times, the Japanese have believed that a life force resides in all creations.

00:15

Valuing and caring for the things we use, a "Zero Waste Life."

00:22

Pointing the way to better living for a new era.

00:26

Just being delicious isn't enough.

00:29

My intent is to intrigue the diner,
the food has to tell a story.

00:53

Shibuya, in the bustling heart of Tokyo.

00:59

In this trend-setting district we find a small French restaurant, favored by foodies in the know.

01:10

It offers wild game, still a rarity in Japan.

01:18

Murota Takuto is the owner-chef...

01:28

...taking wild-caught game to new levels of excellence.

01:33

The menu changes daily.

01:59

Wild game isn't hunted to order.
I can't just say, today it's wild boar.

02:07

If the venison is good today,
then that's what we'll offer.

02:11

Or maybe there's no duck,
so we serve bear instead.

02:14

There's no way to know
what I'll be serving tomorrow.

02:21

Murota chooses his meat according to a very particular criterion.

02:26

It should come from animals hunted as so called "pests."

02:38

In Japan as many as 1.2 million animals that can destroy crops or cause other harm, such as deer or wild boar, are culled by hunters annually as pests.

02:55

But, as eating wild game isn't a major part of Japanese food culture, over 90% of it goes to waste.

03:16

Murota buys this otherwise unwanted meat directly from hunters all over Japan.

03:43

It's a female, right?

03:48

This type of deer is classified as an invasive pest species.

03:53

Alongside the hunter, Nagashima Satoru, Murota carefully examines the quality of the meat.

04:01

If they struggle in the trap,
it can cause internal bleeding.

04:08

But there's almost none of that here.
This one was just caught yesterday.

04:14

- Are deer what you mostly get lately?
- Yeah, a lot more of them recently.

04:19

With wild boar numbers down,
their habitat is expanding.

04:27

They'll just keep multiplying
if nothing is done.

04:32

"Is it not commonly eaten?"

04:34

I use the meat myself.

04:39

But mostly it's burned for disposal.

04:47

It just ends up in an incinerator
with all the other burnable trash.

04:59

If it's good enough to eat,
then why throw it away?

05:03

I believe using it is more respectful
to the animal itself too.

05:12

One of the reasons such meat is often discarded is that it's difficult to prepare.

05:17

Unlike meat from domesticated animals, its condition varies.

05:27

It's just like human beings.

05:30

Some people like vegetables,
while others prefer meat.

05:34

All creatures have a personality,
they like to eat different things.

05:40

The meat has a personality too,
different flavors, different preferences.

05:48

To me, that's only natural.

05:57

It's Murota's belief that no life, no living thing, should ever go to waste.

06:02

And so, as much as possible, he makes use of the whole animal, even parts that aren't meat.

06:13

He uses the bones to make stock.

06:27

The organs are pureed to make sauce.

06:46

Not even a drop of blood goes to waste.

06:54

How should I put it?

06:56

I don't like to eat like a nobleman,
only using the best parts like a feast.

07:06

I just can't see that as the right way
to appreciate the food we eat.

07:16

His full-course meals showcase this zero-waste philosophy.

07:26

It begins with a deer blood macaron.

07:32

Deer blood is used in place of egg whites.

07:35

And the serving dish itself is deer hide.

08:22

And the pest deer caught by the hunter Nagashima becomes this amazing dish...

08:43

The main dish is a salmis of roast mallard.

08:52

Trimmings, bits often discarded, are also included and the sauce makes use of the blood.

09:08

And for dessert, a bear financier.

09:12

A classic French pastry made with bear fat.

09:23

Today, one of their regular customers is here for dinner.

09:29

She's a huge fan of Murota's cooking.

09:37

"Itadakimasu!"

09:54

As I eat, I notice the taste,
but I'm also aware it's a living thing.

10:04

It speaks of the many different forms
that life itself can take.

10:23

In Japanese we always say, "itadakimasu,"
"I humbly receive this food."

10:28

I believe it's unique to our food culture,
and one of the best things about it.

10:35

It's a way of expressing gratitude for
receiving the life of the food we eat.

10:39

If I can remind diners of this,
then their meal here has meaning.

10:53

On his day off, Murota leaves the city center behind for the country.

11:13

Trading his chef's knife for a gun, he hunts wild birds and other animals.

11:19

For him, hunting is something to cherish.

11:38

Meat in the supermarket is cold,
it just doesn't feel alive.

11:42

When I hunt, I know it's a living thing,
I give it the respect it deserves.

11:52

Hunting also helps me to reset,
so I can do my best in the kitchen.

11:59

It may not be the most important,
but it's one of the ways that I prepare.

12:21

A beautiful pheasant. Got it!

12:33

Once caught, skillful preparation is required to make sure the end result is a culinary success.

12:45

If it stays warm it'll start to rot,
so I clean and chill it immediately to keep it in the best condition.

13:12

After aging, the pheasant is transformed into this mouthwatering dish.

13:26

Through cuisine and through hunting Murota shows his respect for all life.

13:33

Something also seen in the name of his restaurant.

13:37

"Lature" is a portmanteau of the French, larme, meaning "droplet" or "teardrop," and nature.

13:56

Literally, nature is crying,
we have to do something.

14:02

That's the idea behind the name.

14:05

We call some creatures pests,
but that's a human sin not theirs.

14:12

Instead of treating them like trash,
we can honor them as our food.

14:18

It's a way to atone for what we've done.